Filastruder Instructions - KS - Rev1 PDF [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

Instruction and Assembly Manual for Filastruder

Written by Tim Elmore Contact: [email protected] Extruder Version: 1.1 (Kickstarter Release) Instructions Version: 1.1 (Kickstarter Release)

Cautions and Warnings: The Filastruder can reach very high temperatures (>200C), and high pressures (>150psi). Exercise caution.

Some polymers can undergo thermal decomposition resulting in potentially toxic fumes. Always use the Filastruder in a well ventilated area, and understand the thermal decomposition properties of the polymer you are extruding. It is recommended that you use a smoke detector, and/or a carbon monoxide detector.

The Filastruder is a first-generation, experimental piece of hardware. Treat it as such. It is not a toaster or microwave. Do not leave the house or go to sleep with it running. Be sure to check in on it periodically. Basically, use common sense. If you have a question, post about it on the forum (where you downloaded this documentation from).

Assembly Instructions: Raw Parts kit –> RTA (ready to assemble) kit: (ET: 30 mins) Tools needed: • Dremel with grinding wheel • 3D Printer 1.) 2.) 3.) 4.)

Debur nipple cutout with file, dremel, or deburring tool Print hopper body (100% infill), optionally hopper funnel, electronics box Grind lips of nipples until there is no ridge left on inside of nipple Grind/file/cut the one edge of the #8 washer so it fits in the square flat in the hex socket

If you need to drill a nozzle: 1.) Drill brass plug for extrusion: 1/16” for 1.75mm, 7/64” for 3.0mm all the way through, 1/8” to a depth of 3/16” (figure 3), and 1/16” diameter hole 3/16” deep in one of the flats for the thermocouple RTA kit –> RTR (ready to run) extruder (mechanical) (ET: 1 hr) Tools needed: • Drill (1/8” bit) • SAE allen wrench set • 7/16” wrench • Pliers • Wire cutters/strippers/crimpers • Phillips and flathead screwdrivers 1.) Loosen setscrew in shaft collar. Assemble feed screw by sliding collar all the way up. Tighten set screw. 2.) Slide thrust bearing onto auger, then white nylon bushing 3.) Slide flange onto auger, with curved side facing out.

4.) Thread end of nipple with section removed into flange, flat side of the flange out. Tighten. Be careful not to deform the nipple. Only apply a wrench on the short side of the cutout – the side to the right of the cutout in the diagram to the left. 5.) Slide hopper body onto nipple. If using v5 hopper or newer, put the flat side away from the wooden support. 6.) Thread coupling onto nipple.

7.) Slide auger into pipe nipple assembly. Check that auger can be rotated freely by hand. 8.) Lay out 4 main bolts, put a washer on each. 9.) Slide bolts through the flange not next to the wood, then put a white nylon spacer on each bolt, then slide through the wooden support next flange. 10.) Put a washer and nut on each bolt. Tighten by hand. Be sure to not crush the white nylon spacers. 11.) Place the #8 washer onto the motor shaft. This forms the key for the motor/auger coupling. It may help to secure with a layer of masking tape. 12.) Slide the hex socket onto the motor shaft. 13.) Attach motor to wood using provided bolts.

Note: View shown is exploded – the socket and washer slide onto the shaft. 14.) Install heating band on coupling. 15.) Thread brass plug into coupling. 16.) Wrap hotend with provided insulation. Provided insulation is a bit intentionally undersized to provide a tight wrapping. Form it to the shape of the heaterband by squeezing it around the heater/coupling. Secure with sticky section of paper wrapping. Insulation not shown.

17.) Mark the base with the outline of the motor mount. 18.) Predrill holes in the base (1/16” for all predrilling), two for the motor mount. 19.) Partially screw in black screws from underside. Use them to mark holes in the motor mount. 20.) Predrill motor mount, finish installing the screws from underside. 21.) Attach the two white angle brackets to the bottom of the main support using shorter silver screws. 22.) Line up main support on the base, slide feedscrew into coupling, ensuring thrust bearing is compressed, then attach white angle brackets to base. 23.) Ensure supports are vertical and motor shaft/auger alignment is still good. 24.) Install two black screws through the base into the center support, as you did for the motor mount.

25.) Using 2 silver screws, attach fan to filament guide block. 26.) Build filament guide: bolt, then washer, copper, washer, and nut. 27.) Using 1 zip tie, attach filament guide to filament guide block. 28.) Using 1 black screw, attach block to base, with top of copper pipe 1.25”-1.4” from nozzle.

RTA kit –> RTR extruder (electrical) (ET: 20 mins) 1.) Look at figure 1. Use the appropriate diagram for the controller that was included in your kit. 2.) Cut the 12v cable coming out of the power supply approximately 12 inches away from the power supply. The 12v cable is the one that does not plug into the wall. 3.) Connect as shown in wiring diagram. Use the extra piece of wire from Step 2 to connect the motor, as well as the jumper providing power to the second switch and the jumper from terminal 1 to 4 on the controller. In the diagram, “+12v” is the red wire coming out of the power supply, “GND” is the black wire. Use the included crimps for the switches. The motor terminal with the red dot is actually GND (black wire). The motor should turn clockwise as viewed from the hotend. 4.) Connect the thermocouple to the controller by sliding it under the screws. Observe polarity. If using the enclosure, you may need to bend the terminals of the thermocouple so the yellow thermocouple connector does not interfere with the enclosure. Insert thermocouple in brass plug. Secure with kapton tape, metal zip tie, or pipe clamp (not included) 5.) Inspect all wiring for stray strands, loose connections, etc. If you are uncertain, upload pictures, or have a knowledgeable friend check it out! 6.) Plug the Filastruder into an outlet. Check that one of the switches turns on the heater, and the other turns on the motor/fan. Turn both switches off, proceed to operation instructions.

Operation Instructions:

1.) Place assembly on a table, with filament guide 3” from edge of table (some users have had better luck with different positions. 3” is not absolute truth) 2.) Set PID to 180 degC. Wait 15 minutes. 3.) Turn on motor. Frame should not flex significantly, and nipple should not turn. If it does, plastic is still solid inside body. Wait longer for it to heat up before running motor. 4.) Using a tool so you don’t burn yourself, guide filament over nozzle and to edge of table. 5.) Let Filastruder run for 6-8 hours to ensure contaminates are flushed out. These are the bits of metal from the cutting/grinding/filing that stuck to the inside of the barrel. 6.) After 8 hours, filament should be free of contaminates and can be used. Be sure to inspect a reasonable length of filament for contaminants before using in a printer. It make take more than 8 hours to flush out all the contaminants – using clear ABS can make it easier to be sure. 7.) Enjoy cheap filament!

Included Parts - Mechanical: • Auger • 8 inch pipe nipple • Brass plug/nozzle • Pipe Coupling • Shaft Collar • Thrust bearing • hex socket, with shaft key (#8 washer) • 2 flanges • 4 ¼”-20 3” bolts • 5 hex nuts • 10 washers • M5-.80x40 motor mount bolts • 2 wood supports • Filament guide parts (bolt, copper pipe, wood block) • Insulation • 4 Regular zip ties • 4 nylon bushings (4 white, 1 white) • 13 wood screws (5 black, 4 long #6 silver, 4 short #8 silver) • 2 white angle brackers Included Parts - Electrical: • PID controller • Thermocouple • 12v gearmotor • 60mm fan, 12v • 4 female spade terminals • 2 switches • Heater • 12v power supply

User provided parts: • One 1”x6”x22” piece of wood • Hopper (STL provided by us) • Hopper extender (optional, STL/CAD provided by us) • Electronics enclosure (optional, STL/CAD provided by us)

Specifications: • Extrusion Rate: 6-18 inches/minute (1.5-5 lbs/day) • Extrusion Temperature: tested with 170-210°C (others may be possible) • Size: 22”x6”x6” • Noise: 50dBA @ 3ft • Power: 110-240VAC,50/60Hz, 75watts peak, 50 watts average

Lessons learned so far: • Motor voltage changes pressure, and thus extrusion rate and diameter. Try to run at constant 12 volts. That is what the motor is rated for. • Temperature changes viscosity, and thus extrusion rate and diameter. This is one way of dialing in filament diameter. 10degC is about 0.10mm. That also means that the tighter the PID holds temperature, the better. Autotuning the PID is a good idea. Simply press and hold the AT button until the green AT light illuminated. Should take 5 seconds to get into AT mode, and ~5 minutes to do the autotuning.

• • • • •

Another way of changing filament diameter is raising/lowering the guide. Moving the guide further from nozzle increases the chances of the filament tangling/blobbing, be careful doing this. (though by no means is 1.25” the perfect distance) As you run out of pellets in the hopper, the extruded filament will exhibit a wave-like pattern. This means the extruder body is nearly empty. Keep the pellets and hopper clean, and covered when not in use. Garbage in, garbage out! If you let foreign material into the hopper, it will become part of your filament! Every 100 hours or so, inspect the thrust bearing and for signs of wear. Exercise caution. Though I’ve tried to cover all the bases in terms of material selection, etc., the truth is we’re pressurizing hot, molten plastic. Eye protection is a good idea, and you should maintain safe distances when the motor is running. (don’t put your eyeball up to the nozzle with it running!) It should still be plugged into a GFI outlet ideally, and never used near water or flammable products. Always use in a well-ventilated area, and use smoke detectors. NEVER LEAVE UNATTENDED.

Figure 1a. Wiring Diagram – Mypin PID controllers

Figure 1b. Wiring Diagram – Sestos PID controllers

Figure 2. Section view of nozzle.

Figure 3. Filament guide info