Woodcraft Magazine 029 (JuneJuly 2009) PDF [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

Projects, Techniques, and Products

•

magazlne

Contents Skill-Building Techniques

19

Router Dovetailed Drawers Done Right Tips and tricks for getting perfectly fitting joints from any jig.

46

Small·Shop Dust Collection

54

Tough-Love Workshop Finishes

56

How to Install a Workshop Wood Floor

Heady to retire your broom? Learn how to sdect the best collector, and design and Install the ductwork. for a cleaner, healthier works hop.

Three fast and foolproof finishes for your cabinets and tountertoJls, guaranteed to withstand shop abuse.

Every woodworker wanL,> comfort underfoot when spending entire days in the shop. Here's a floor that delivers, along with considerable good looks. See how to install one step by step.

Tools and More

60

Power Sharpeners Plug-ins sharpen edges faster than sharpening stones, but speed and convenience come at a price. Compare three sharpening systems to decide which one suits your needs and budget.

16

Hot New Tools & Accessories

70

Problem-Solving Products

Delta Un isaw • Tab le Saw Panel-lifter . Stanley Planes • Corrosion Inhibitor · Steel City Granite Lathe

• Oneway Multi-Gauge • Dowelmax Joinery System

Departments 06 08 12 66 78 80 4

Cutting In News & Views Tips & Tricks Woodsense: Sheet Goods for the Shop Next Issue's Highlights Workshop Mishaps woodcraftmagazine.com

April 2009

WmDCRAFT magazme

Cutting In

June/July 2009 Volume 5, Issue 29 [dilat-ln -Chi~ r

Jim Harfold Joe H~rst'W~jUC1uk

Building Our Workshop

S~nlor

Ass.o~l.tc

5hl fM Hambrlcl:;

Hard work, creativity, and lots of fun

C~allve OlrKtor Au ist.nt Art Di~(!or

K ~ n Beady (n.d Ml Clunll

Last June, we started on our Woodcraft Magazine workshop. The space available rem inded me of what many of you , our readers, have to dea l with. It was a basement area-concrete floor, cinder-block walls, poor lighting, insufficient power, zero dust collection. But we had a dream, a ton of ideas, and the ambition to do things right. We also had the resources, thanks, in part, to help from our advertisers; a gang of very talented woodworkers, designers, and consultants: and the support of our parent company, Woodcraft Supply, LLC. We also set goals. Just as the Native Americans of

Conlrlbutln. Graphk Desi,nu Sh ~ yn~ HiI~s

Conlributin. Ulust ralo " Mike Mad~r, Sh i ne W ~ irsm. Contrlbutin. P'tlolo.rapne .. ~~ul"'Mhonv. 000 « Row,"

Conlrib~lin~ Crlh,m .. n/Project DullneH Tim 8I r kl"nd , Gilrv Carter. ~en s.tC T.~hnl i~ that we have outfitted our shop with three distinctly different cabinet areas built on three budgets. These include the MDF workshop, the melamine workshop, and the birch plywood workshop. Here, price differences come down to sheet goods, hardware. and countertop costs. Where the cabinets do not differ is in their genera! construction. Everything you see is built from the same basic 24"_ and 32"-wide base and wall cabinet plans. As you'll discover in "Super-Easy Workshop Cabinets" on page 28, we took the mystery out of cabinet building by going with the simple 32-mi!1imeter system. [fyou can count to 10, you can build these cabinets, though it he lps to have an inches-tomillimeter measuring tape. Now let's look at the three contrasting areas and our shop's specs, avera!! features, and floor plan. 24

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June 2009

Const ru[;tion : Concrete b lock and insulated 2 JI. 4 stud walls; double layers of 0/1,' drywall or "I, ' drywall and V$" plywood (for screwing items to the wall anywhere along its length 800va 4'). H ea tin g and c ooling : Natural

gas forced-air furnace and air conditioner; room tl1ermostaticall y controlled. Li g htin g: Ten S' fluorescent lights operated by a single onloff T-8 switch; 32-watt bulbs. Electri c al: 200-amp service panel-fourteen 110 ootlets and seven 220 outlats with two of each ceiling-mounted. Du st C oll ection : Oneida 3 hp Pro Series 1500 with cartridge filter. metal fittings, and spiral metal piping (6 " and 7" main trunk. with 4' and 5" branch lines).

Air co mpres sor: Porter-Cable 3 hp, 60-galion air compressor.

Three hardworking workshops from one great plan Whether you're adding storage to the back. aryour garage or outfitting a dedicated workshop building, chances are, one of these cabinet choices will suit your style and wallet. As you can see we used a cleat system fur hanging our wall cabinets and tool boards.

1. MDF Fast and low-dollar MDF-This

handsome workshop could easily be built in a few weekends for under

$700. Constructing the cases with Confirmat screws (recommended for MDF) speeds the work, as does cutting out and hanging the frame less slab doors . While one cabinet contains four quick-toassemb le Metal Box drawers (Inset),

all the others contain shelves. In other words, more simple slabs. We painted the cabinets with two coats ufGeneral Finishes milk paint (one part outback brown, three parts snow white), and topped the base units with a double-layer MOF countertop, edged with 314 maple, This we finished with two coats of clear water-based polyurethane and a coat of paste wax. Map le pulls (purchased through the VanDyke catalog) provide a nice accent wh ile matching the edging. ft

2. Melamine Mid-range. e asy-t o-cl ean mela mine cabinetsSmooth. white laminate surfaces set this workshop apart. The v." Marlite panels in the maple cabinet door frames let you jot down dimensions, phone numbers, and more with erasable markers, while the thin sheet-metal-on-Marllte door panels let you pin up paper deSigns, receipts, and cut lists with magnets (Inset). Underneath the counter, drawers, shelves, and pull-out trays provide versatile storage in the base cabinets.

3. Birch Plywood Showy. premium ca binets with a n all-wood look-r.onslder birch plywood cabinets for a touch of class and craftsmanship. We paid $15 more for a sheet ot birch plywood ($43) than we did for a sheet of MDF. We outfitted the base cahinets with Metal-Box drawers as well as shelves and pull-out trays for storing portable power tools. Full-extension slides for trays let you take advantage ofthe cabinet storage room while the 165" full-overlay hinges on the base cabinet doors provide clearance (left). To further dress out this workshop, we topped th~ base cabinets with a hard-wearing,lYz"-thick by 12'-long laminated maple countertop. Framed glass doors for one wall cabinet let you view prized planes or collectibles. Fi n ish for the cabinets consists of three spray-coats of General Finishes Satin High Performance Water-Based Topcoat, a tough, fast-drying product with acrylic and urethane resins. (See more on workshop finishes on page 54.)

Opening pholo: Doug Rowan

June 2009

woodcraftmagazine.com 25

Creating a first-class woodworking environment Complementary tool boards

as needed. Better still, they

For easy access to frequently used hand tools, we included perforated hardboard tool boards that you build to fit and hang on

metal hangers which often fall off when tools are removed.

stay put when secured, unlike

t he beveled wall cleat. Un ique to this sys tem is that we did away with commercial metal huoks and hangers and made custom hangers from scrap. (You'll find a variety of the hangers on page 42.) Sma ll rectangles of perforated hardboard back the hangers, a llowing you to fix them to t he tool boards w ith plastic wall anchors and sc rews. This approach enables you to

quickly relocate the holders

Dust collection and healthy shop air Our whole-shop metal-pipe dustcollection system fr om Oneida provides swift and complete collection of sawdust and chips at every floor machine. The cyclone dustcollector unit (Pro Series 1500) features a 3 hp Baldor motOr with an external cartridge filter. It sits outside the shop along one wall. To turn it on we use key-fob remotes which we hang at convenient locations. Blast

gates terminate each branch duct line, allowing the system to effectively service any two major machines simultaneously. (See ollr story on whole-shop dust-collection on page 46.)

Comfort and good looks underfoot The basement where we located our shop has a concrete floor that, as many of you know, raises havoc on your feet and legs. We wanted something easier on the dogs so we contacted the Southern Forest Products Association for suggestions. They recommended Southern yellow pine flooring and put us in touch with Grizzly Forest Products. As soon as the walls were up, we installed 1 x 6 tongue-andgroove vertical-grain flooring and finished it with four coats of Genera l Finishes Satin WaterBased Top Coat. (See how to put in a workshop wood floor on page 56.) Floo r mats In front of the major machines and workbenches add even more comfort.

SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR WORKSHOP SPONSORS Putting a workshop together from scratch is no small feat , and we would be remiss if we did not include a special thanks to the sponsors who helped make our dream a reality. Here arc the participants: Adjustable Clamp Assonmll-nt of Clamps

EarleK

Freud

HVlP Spray Station Pro

Router Bits & Saw Blades Biscuit Joiner 3 1/. HP Plunge Router Doweling Machine

www.adjustableclamp.com

www.ear/ex.com

Bessey Tools Assortment of Clamps

Festool

www.beueyrools.com Oanco

furo Hinges, llOe & 16So

www.woodtrsaw Oean Tech Vacuum Domino Joining System MFI( 700 Trim Router Plunge Router MFTj3 Multifunction Table

www.{estoolf)$o.com Forrest Blades Saw Blades

www·forresrblades.cam Franklin International Glues & Adhesives

www.tifebond.com

13" rhicknt>u Planer

www.dewalt.com

26

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June 2009

www.freudtools.com General Finishes Wood Coatings Water·based Finishes Oil·based Finishes

Hafele Metal Box Drawer System FiKing SrackeH

www,hofelt ,comjus lnera Measuring, Markmg, and POSitioning Tools www.incro.com

JOS

www.generalfinishes.com

Air·Tech 1S0ER High·Efficiency Air filtration System

General International hcalibur Scrollsaw Overarm Blade Guard 8(:nchtop Mor~ser

www.jdsroo/s.com Jet

Tongue·and-groove Southern Yellow Pine Flooring

Portable Dust Co! lection Belt Oi,c Sander 14" BandS" lL' tD_ - =

f"

23'/1" or

'/1" rabbets

J7tnm ,

'/,"deep,~~=_:~~::':':"~/'i' E~::;; I

3$mm hole

*Thkkness of )/0" plywood

r ··

r "~

.. I

r~-~',II'-"'-t '10-

•

" / . " gro()~~.

deep "

II

VI" deep

Smm holes.

1/2' deep \ : #8 x 11/1" flat head wood sc rew

Cleats & spacer side view

.

!

.: :

Wall

,0, " 0, "

cabi net

~

I'·

)

\iI

3" wir@ pull

,

q

I

.

32mm

110' fu ll-overla hinge

7 Cut edge banding to rough length for the front edges of sides (A), bottoms (8), and stretchers (C). A good rule is to cut strips about 2" longer than the finished lengths of the parts in the Cut List. Then clamp the cabinet part in a bench vise or use handscrews so the front edge stands up vertically. NOTE: l[you haven't used edge banding before, you're in/or a pleasant .'>urprise.

Because it offers a qllick and economical wily tu hide plywuud and melamine edges, edge banding is often used on Euro-style cabinets, butyoll'll also find it useful on other projects as well. Melamine edges can be finished with vinyl edge banding, which applies just like wood edge banding. B Tack one edge of the edge banding to the plywood by applying moderate pressure with

a Finish the front edges of parts with iron-on edging. Move the iron slowly across the edge as the thermosetting glue melts and adheres the edging to the plywood.

32

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June 2009

Use an edge-banding trimmer to trim both edges in one pass. Beginning at one end, squeeze the trimmer and push it forward, creating twin curls as shown.

the iron, as shown in Photo E. Make sure that a small amount of edge banding overhangs at both ends, so YOLl can trim it flush. Move the iron slowly along the edging to activate the thermosetting adhesive backing and adhere it to the plywood. After adhering the band to the plywood, preSs itdown to the edge, using either "

•

,

-,

MAR ocBe

,

P

~ ,

P P

p-

P

'ChooOO ShOOt goods consIstent 'NJth tho cabinets you are making." Cul matc hing cleat to Ieogth 01 walt or c abinet run . "'Shorl dooI's Ilre for base callirlets Witll Olle drawer aOO two doors. Door st ile dimensions aocount for reveal Dew""" dOors

and dravt~. wkh h to suit tool

'I_~ Jf'" '{I" kelfl for Sq uate tlIJd.

spacers, a nd cleats to width, and then crosscut the parts to the desired lengths. Cut the perforated hardboard panelfs to size. 3 Now, glue and nail the frame and panel assembly tugether, using a nail gun and 34" nails or brads. Then add the beveled cleat as shown in Photo A. 4 Add the opposing beveled cleat to your shop wall, and hang the tool board as shown in Photo B. Build a variety oftool holders from scrapwood a nd perforated hardboard. using the eight tool holder designs in Figure 2. Modify th e hold ers to suit your collection s of tools. or desig n a few of your own . 6 Drill Xu holes 14" deep on the back side and near the ends of

5

Glue and na il the beveled cleat in place. locating it W' down from the top edge of t he framed panel. Here, use l X" nails.

Ju ne 2009

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43

·f.

~

2" x length of cool hoIdtr

1 11o"orto suit pia......

1

Plane holder

Open end wrench holder

I

. . Length to SU!t VPlanePlus2

---::~Y I rL r ",7/0"

I

lower the tool board cleat over the beveled wall cleat. This system lets you relocate your wall cabinets and tool boards wherever you like without hassle. each holder along the bottom edge. Use the perforated hardboard holes as guides. Now, cut lA"lengths ofY."·diameter steel rod. Chamfer-sand ends and tap into place. Attach the tool holders to the tool boards using #8 x lX" plastic screw anchors and #8 Ill" panhcad metal screws as shown in Photo C. •

7

44

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June 2009

Align the holes in the pe rforated hardboard backing of the tool holders with those of the tool board, insert the short Yo" dowels pins for positioning, tap in the plasric anchors at the top corners through the hardboard layers, and drive the screws.

Lessons From a Pro 90'

B'ower ~

large-radius elbow

Small-shop d ~~+. . .""~-, . . . ". collection Create a clean, healthy environment for working with wood. By Jim Harrold Consu lta nts: Robert Wi tter and Jeff Hill

W

hen we first work with

wood. taking on a small project here and there and buying a power tool or two, addressing the mess of sawdust and chips with a broom and dustpan seems reasonable enough ... and cheap. But as our passion grows and the projects become more frequent and involved. our investment in machines increases as well. And so does the sawdust. That's when we cough up the bucks

Figure 1: Anatomy of a sma ll shop dust-collection syst em

for one or more portable shop vacuums to help police the area. Eventually, we realize that our paltry militia of maintenance

Why central dustcollection makes sense

tools falls behind the volume of

sawdust and chips. We ask: Is my shop a candidate for a central dust collection? (un I even afford such a system? And, if so, can I plan and install it myself? Working with experts Robert Witter and Jeff Hill of Oneida Air Systems. a major player in small-shop dust collectlon, we'll help you answer these and other questions, and provide you with several options. By story's end, you'll know what's involved and how to proceed without getting mired in math. 46

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June 2009

For the woodworker who fits the mold of "dedicated hobbyist," one who spends hours every week making furniture, having dust collected at every machine means convenience and timesavings. With the right system, cleanup at the end ofthe day may amount to fivc minutes instead of haIran hour or more. In addition, according to Jeff, "a good central DC will cycle and clean air in a shop morc effectively than any ceiling (airfiltration) box. It moves more air, has better filtration and

pre-separation, and works with gravity to pull dust downward." He also notes that a whole-shop system has numerous ports around the room to collect from, not just one port up high. The end result: an overall healthier shop environment and reduction of the slippery fine dust on the workshop fluor. The downside? Cost. For a one-man 20 x 30' workshop with a standard layout of stationary machines and portable power tools. the price tag can run as high as $2,000 ($800 to $1,300 for a quality collector and the rest for fittings, pipe, and

6" pipe --r:-7" to 6" wy'e --''

hose). This high-end app roach would include an efficient twostage cyclone dust collector with metal pipes and fittings. However, you can work up to a whole-shop syste m by starting with a quality dus t collector a nd filter and addin g ductwork in stages as your budget allows and needs a ri se. Says Robert , "Custo me rs tell us that they w ished they had in stalled a cyclo ne system wit h ducti ng first, ins tead of spend ing years with bags, mobile collectors, overhead units, masks, and other less effective measures." But fo r the hard -chargi ng weekend warrior, there may be a less ex pensive a lter native.

Opt for a portable dust collector If budget and space rank among your conce rn s, you may opt fo r a portable dust coll ector li ke the one shown above. At t he low end, you can pic k up a 1 hp un it that's powerfu l enough to coll ect from th e biggest chi pmaker in your shop for around $200. Of course, it collects fro m one machine at a t ime so you'] ] need to move it fro m tool to tool as you work through a milli ng sequence. Be aware, however, that many of the sing le-stage

Tip Alert While purchasing th e flex ible hose to attach to your tools, also incl ude qu ick-connecting adapters (Woodcraft #140259, $6.50) to speed hook-up time. '-Ph oto; Oou g ROWin illustrations: Chris Glowacki

Whil e this portable lX hp dust collector can connect to two machines, it work s best collecting from one at a time. Consider using blast gates to improve efficiency. 5" pi"e- -1 bag collectors pu m p fine mit ron du st back into the air while retai ni ng the large r debri s. In t his case, upgra de the collector with an after- ma rket bag o r pl eated ca rtridge w ith AS HRAE tested-and-rated 1-2 micron o r better filt er. Or, for another $200-$30 0, you ca n get a 11/2hp dus t

co ll ecto r (the most horses you can hope to run off 110 volts). These mid -sized units ca n connect to two machine s at t he same t ime with dual 4" ports or one 6" port. That said , you're best off capping or blast-ga ting one c port and collecting ) from one machine at a

Secondary Strategies

Blast gate 5" to 4" reducer

Let these health-smart measures su ppleme nt Flexi ble hose your pri mary co llectio n effo rts: • Wear an inexpensive dust mask or respirator when creati ng fin e dust from sanding, turning, and si milar fin e du st operations. • En su re that eve ry power tool ha s a du st port for dust/chip coll ection. • If weath er permits, venti late the shop with a box-style window fan to remove fin e dust. • Use a shop vacuum for su itable portable power tools such as sanders and circular saws, and outfit it with an aft er-market pleated HEPA filt er. • Capture sawdust and chips with passive (gravity) boxes or bags und erneath some machi nes such as a cont ractor table saw or mitersaw. Jun e 2009

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47

Lessons From a Pro

6" wye time. For superior collection in the category: spend a few more bucks and buy a twostage portable dust collector. Says Robert, HThc objective is to provide enough CFM at the machine to capture nearly all the dust and then consolidate and filter it down to t he smallest particles. A portah le can do this if it can pre-separate waste and capture 99% of the 1-2 micron fine (flour) dust," A

portable also lets you save the cost of running ductwork

t hroughout your shop. When shopp ing for a dust

collector, whether a low-dough mobi le unit or a fixed model,

brush up on a few terms to know what you're buying and

to assess your needs. See the "Clossary of Dust-Co llection Terms" below, and then go to woodcraft.com to find a wide variety of dust collectors. Keep

in mind that manufacturers' claims regarding CFM may he grossly exaggerated. Therefore,

C~~~~~~:~::::::J""''''''':::5::::~t:o;e~nsure from collecting efficiency,fromreftwo ral n tools simultaneously unless the collector is 2 hp or greater. Finally, if you do buy a portable dust collector, implement one or more of

the "Secondary Strategies on the previous page to achieve your goals for a clean and healthy shop.

H

Opt for central dust collection If you desire a full-service du stcollection system, one that pulls from every machine (though no more tha n one or two at a ti me), the n let's exam ine the parts that make up a system. Follow the Figu re 1 anatomy drawing beginning on page 46 and ending on page S3 tor an understanding of parts, pipe reductions, and installation. At the same time, see Table 2, D-C Syste m Parts for a r undow n of individua l components. Note that while dust-collection pipes and fittings come in PVC, plastic, and meta l, we chose metal here (and for the Woodcraft Workshop, page 24), because of the diversity of compatible parts a nd to avoid the static electricity found in PVC ductwork lines. At the heart of the dustcollection sys tem in a one-man shop is the collector itself.

Glossary of Dust-Collection Terms O-C-Short for dust co llection/dust collector. CFM-Cubic Feet per Minute or rate of airfl ow. See Table 1 for the CFM required to remove sawdust and chips from a woodworking mach ine to a collector. SP-Referred to as Static Pressure, this is the amount of airflow resistance in a ductwork caused by pipes, fi ttings, airflow reducti ons, directi on cha nges, clogged filter bags, etc. Note t hat larger diameter pipes halle greate r 48

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June 2009

CFM (drawing more debris) than smaller diameter pipes. The goal is to keep de bris moving, and not settling in t he pipe. Single-Stage Oust CollectorA less expensive collector that pullS sawdust, chips, and ot her de bris directly t hrough the motor im peller before depositing it into a collection and fil ter bag. Two-Stage Dust CollectorA more efficient collec tor t hat allows larger chunks, chips, and sawdust to drop into a {first-

stage) co llection con tainer before reaching the motor impeller; this a llows only the dust to pass through t he impell er and collect in a second-stage fil te r bag o r pleated cartridge. Two-Stage Cyclone Dust Collector-An advanced type of mechanical de bris separa tor, that employs centrifugal air movement to se parate coarse an d fine material so only ultra-fi ne micron dust reaches the fit ter. It includes a more efficie nt and quieter fan.

It can be either a single- or double-stage unit and consists of a blower motor (from Ihp to 3 hp), an impeller, and one or more filters (cloth bag or pleated cartridge), for containing fine dust and exhausting air. It contains a removable canister or collection bag for capturing large debris such as chips and sawdust. Depending on the amperage and horsepower, it may require a special dedicated electrical outlet. For reasons of space and noise, many woodworkers locate the dust collector outside of the shop in a garage or attached insulated shed. Doing this, however, requires you to include an air return to the shop to replace the air removed by the collector. In a typical one-man shop. large 6"- or 7"-diameter elbows and pipe stem from the collector and tie into the main trunk line, which also may be 6" pipe. This ductwork may run perpendicularly or diagonally across the shop as shown in figu r e 2, or along the walls. It may hang from the ceiling joist, attach to walls with metal straps and fasteners, or run

under the workshop floor. Branch lines stem orfthe main trunk line via wyes and elbows. These typically step down in pipe size (often to S"-diameters). The branch lines may again be further reduced to 4"-diameter pipe and flexible hose, depending on the machine or tool ports they service. In some cases you may need to fashion special adapters to collect from some tools, such as a drill press. Keep in mind, however. that the more pipe length, bends. and restrictions you create, the greater the SP (airflow resistance).

perpendicularly or diagonally across the shop. (Running it around the shop's perimeter is the least efficient way to go.) • Make branch lines as short as possible as well. Work to keep tools within a 30' radius of the dust collector. • Locate ceiling drops where vertical pipes won't interfere with traffic flow and machining operations. • Allow for return air for collectors installed outside the shop. • Include dean-out locations in the system for removing clogs. (In ductwork laid out in a concrete floor. go with

Map out a plan To create your whole-shop dust-collection system, map out your workshop plan on paper,locating stationary machines, power-tool stations, cabinets, workbenches, and so on. To do this quickly and accurately, use the scaled "Dream-Shop Planner" on page 64. Draw the perimeter of your shop on the grid, and then cut out the templates that reflect your tools and storage. To help you decide where to locate machines and your dust collector for maximum efficiency, keep these layout considerations in mind: • Place the biggest chipmakers, such as your planer, jointer, and table saw, nearest to your dust collector. • Make the main trunk line (with the largest diameter pipe) as short as possib le to deliver more air volume; run it

Figure 2: Shop Diagrams showing Diagonal and Perpendicul ar Pipe Layouts

June 2009

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49

Lessons From a Pro

capped Y-fitting cleanouts

to remove debris.) • Avoid T fittings and sharp

90" elbows which increase static pressure (by putting two T fittings in a system you tut your airflow in half). By contrast, long-radius 90" elbows. 45° elbows, and wyes are your best choices. • Include a floor sweep to add convenience to shop-floor cleanup. • Terminate rigid duct lines with blast gates and reducers or adapters for hose hookups. • Minimize each flexible hose length (from 5' to 10'). Now, locate and tape your cabinet, tool and, dust collector templates on the planner grid. If placing you r collector inside, avoid areas that have a gas appliance with pilot lights to prevent the risk of explosion. Regardless of whether your collector is ins ide or out, use remote switches to easily activate the unit from anywhere in the shop. Next, tape down a sheet of acetate over your shop layou£ and draw out your duct system, including the main trunk and branch lines with the pipe widths and lengths noted and the fittings .

Floor sweep

SO

messy math by adhering to the following steps regardi ng pipe runs no longer than 30'. This Simpli fies pipe a nd du st collector sizi ng for most home woodworking shops. Rely on Table 2 to assis t you with fitti ngs, and note that pipes come in meta l or PVC; fi ttings in metal. black p lastic, or PVC. Use 6" pipes and fitti ngs for the main trunk (this may be reduced fro m 7" at the mai n

1

collector via a wye or reducer fitting). Calcu late the linear pipe length and fittings needed. Use 5~ pipes and fitt ings for bra nch lines, reducing them as needed to accommodate the tool ports they will service. Pipes of t his dia meter can ca r ry a range of425 to 650 CFM, making t hem well suited for most of t he tools listed in Table 1. Calculate t he linear pipe lengths and fittings (connectors, elbows,

2

Table 1: Airflow requirements (CFM) for shop machines* TOOL

CFM

PORT SIZE

12"-14" Bandsaw

400-500

4"-5"

14"-20" Bandsaw

400-700

5--6-

Belt Sander (6"-wide belt o r less)

450

2"-4"

Stationary Belt Sander (13"-wide belt or more)

S50

3-..1"

Disc Sander (12" dia. or less)

350

4"-5"

Drum Sander (13"-24" wide) Floor Sweep

~ 350

I ....

Jointer (8"-12" wide)

l.so

t

s·

650-800

6"

«lO-6OO

5·

Router (table-mounted)

200

2"-4"

Shaper (Y. hp-3 hpj

3OO-S5O

••

Figure the o-c parts list based on your plan

10" Table Saw (contractor or cabinet)

450-600

5"

With your generalized plan on acetate, tally up the specific parts you'll need. To do this, label the CFM and port sizes for each tool. To determine pipe and fitting needs, avoid

Th ickness Planer (10"-13" wide)

500-600

S·

Thickness Planer (18"-20" wide)

78S

6"

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Jun e 2009

lathe Mitersaw/Radial~Arm

Saw

I

5"

450-700

lathe (mini)

1

6" ! 4--5-

Jointer (6"-8" wide)

J

·/fyour coll~ctor il' rated for 1,ZOO CPM, more than likely you can collect from your table saw and jointer (450 + 350 CPM '" 800 CFM) at the same time.

I

I I

wycs, reducers, blast gates, adapters and caps) needed. If suspending the system from the ceiling, consider drop lengths as well. In any case, avoid choosing duct diameters that are too small. Try to run the largest diameter you can to the tool ports, referring to Table 1. In some cases you can increase the tool port size for better collection. Figure the lengths and diameters of the flexible hose and hose clilmps needed to match the tool ports. 4 Indude 2"·wide a luminum tape, industrial grade silicone sealant, sheet metal screws, and metal strapping for hanging pipes. Make a D-C parts list on paper for purchasing and installing.

Table 2: Parts for a small shop sy~tem

3

45' elbow

S-·,. dIlL; for ...... bImI..

dia.; prll!ferred fitting for branch lines; offll!rs less SP than T-fittings. Branch arms can serve;)s reducers.

Floor sweep (2 " 8· opening)

Choosing a whole-shop •.-__ [fyour one-man home shop contains a variety of machines like those li sted in Table 1 and the ductwork (trunk and branch lines) does not extend beyond 30' from the collector, your options are simple. For single-tool collection (only one blast gate open at a time), consider a 11/2- to 2·hp collector. For collection from two tools at a time (with a ll but two blast gates closed), opt for a 2· to 3·hp collector. Use any more than that and you're indulging in overkill. ((your shop is more than a one-man shop and commercial in nature, seek expert help.

3"·7" dla.; some adjust to fit; large·radius reduce s SP when turning (ornll!rs.

r·7~

5

dust CO II ector

90' large'radius elbow 90' sharp-radius elbow

Connectors

2"·7" dia.; Connll!cts pipe

: :i ! ! !i! ::::"::::::'1'~'~'itlO~"~'~W~'~'~t~h'~'~W~/~"~'~'W~'!:j

~

and tape; same dla. as pipe.

Blast gate

Blast gatll!/ hose adapter

L_--~'f'1F.(

3"·6" dla.; connects nexible hose to system from tool.

Reducer

Tool port w ith flange

3",4-,5", 6", 7~ dla.; mounted to tools for connection and for

1r.~~'~~~'~~PO:'~t~'"1~~::::::::~~ .... _1IIm\inIIIIt.... .. ~ 17

. . 01.__

'"'-- End cap 1 , -,4-,5".'-cfil:UMdto

p...

--=

~

-Schedule 1140 (whiU) PVC pipe comes in r -, 4-·, and 6 ·-diameters; thinner schedule 1120 (white) PVC pipe comes In 3 ~· and 4"-diameters only. 80th come in '0' lengths and accept a full runge ofplumbing fittifI!Js found at home cent'e rs and block plastic D·C fittings like those sold at Woodcraft. Costs. 4".(//0. It 10' PVC pipe, $7.65; 4 -·dio. It 6'metul pipe, $13.29. June 2009

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Lessons From a Pro

Install a metal D-C system step by step With your system parts on hand, gather the tools and materials you'll need for installation. For the metal system featured here. we used a tape measure, felt tip pen, redprocating saw equipped with a metal cutting blade. a cordless drill, screw driver, l/Z" sheet-metal screws, tin snips, a crimping tool. silicone caulk,

Jeff used a pair of hose clamps and a short piece of flex hose to connect the collector to the dust bin; he installed the cartridge filter with star knobs, bolts, and washers.

a caulk gUll, aluminum tape,

and hose clamps. Now, solicit a helper and follow this sequence for a quality installation. Assemble the dust-collector at its planned location, following instructions accompanying the unit. (We attached the motor to the cyclone barrel, and then bolted on the cyclone cone. Rather than secure the unit to the wall with a bracket, we assembled an optional iron frame for sturdy, level support, and then added the dust-bin and cartridge filter assemblies as shown in Photos A and B.) 2 Layout the pipes and fittings on the floor in the vicinity of

1

Expert D-C layout

their installation, following your plan. Then, beginning at the dust collector. fit connectors, elbows, wyes, and pipes together as shown in Photo C to build the main trunk line. Seal all joints with aluminum tape as you screw components together as shown in Photo D. A second method of sealing pipe is to use an industrial grade silicone sealant as shown in Phot o E. Both measures lead to an air-tight system. 4 Build branch lines that lead to each tool, terminating them with wyes and reducers, blast gates. and hose connectors. When needed. cut pipe lengths to fit as shown in Photo F,

3

After joining male and female parts, Jeff secured them using three or four #8 x y." sheet-metal screws around each joint.

Tip Alert If possib le, do as much of the

assembly on the floor for ease of construction.

services If you intend to install a o-c system, note that Oneida offers a professional planning service to help you Jay out and size your system, develop a parts list, and obtain installation help. This is free of charge wit h purchase of a 3 hp or higher system. Contact Oneida at (800) 7324065; online: oneida-air.com. 52

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June 2009

Fortify and seal each jOint with adhesive-backed aluminum tape, cutting strips long enough to circle the joint at least twice; lay down a bead of silicone along joint lines as an alternative sea ling method .

Cut pipe with a reciprocating saw and metal-cutting blade; a helper rotates the pipe during the process to maintain a controlled, on-the-mark cut.

Cut strips of metal strap, bow it around the pipe, bend up end taps, and screw the strap and pipe in place. Solicit a helper to hold the pipe in place.

measuring and marking them with a pen. Allow for overlapping of pipes and connectors at joints (usually about 1" at each end). Hang the assemblies from the ceiling joists or along the wall with metal straps snipped to size and screwed in place as shown in Photo G. Connect needed lengths of sized flexible hose (less is best) from branch line ports to machine ports, using hose clamps. [n some cases, you may

need to crimp a pipe or fitting for an inserted fit as shown in Photo H. With the installation complete, close the blast gates, activate the system, and listen for air leaks at each jOint. Plug any holes with silicone . •

5

4" nose ·,

6

Installing a PVC system A Note of Caution: While we include a discussion of a PVC ductwork system in this article, we do not recommend it. And while you can find PVC ductwork systems in small shops across the country, know that NFPA / OSHA opposes using it in this application due to the potential for causing electro-static shock and fire. But if you choose this route, consider these installation pointers: • When assembling the compone nts of a PVC system, note that black plastic fittings, like the blast gates and reducers sold at Woodcraft, and the cream fittings all complement the system. Still, make sure you have the needed adapters so parts connect snugly. Seal joints with silicone Photos: Chad McClung

Crimp the edges of a fitting (in this case, a reducer) for a snug fit in the mating component using a metal crimping tool. Secure the piece with screws.

Tip Alert !mprOlle collection efficiency on tools by replacing the factory port with a larger shop-made one. (For instance, we changed out the 4" factory port on our jointer with a 5" port made from 1"-" plywood with a S" opening and a 5" flanged metal port.)

5" to 4" wye

•

• • •

-;

and/or aluminum tape to prevent air leaks. End cap Some metal components, purchased at a home center, may be needed to connect a PVC system to the dust collector. Do not glue up all of the joints. You may have to pull sections apart to deal with clogs. T and other tight-radius fittings and small diameter pipes will significantly reduce efficiency. Ground the PVC system by running braided metal wire inside the PVC piping, fittings, and fle)(ible hoses from machines to dust collector to reduce static electricity buildup. Connect braided wires together at joints with wire nuts. (Consider Woodcraft's Anti-Static Kit, #812502, $17.99.) Reduce the shock potential by spiral-wrapping the system with a grounded braided wire. June 2009

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53

Prep & Finish

Workshop Finishes Add life (and good looks) to your shop with our four-can plan. By Joe Hurst·Wajszczuk

Many

woodworkers dream of a shop lined with flawlessly finished cabinets like the kitchen of some celebrity chef. If you have the time and inclination, go for it; jllst don't let perfection prevent you from making real sawdust. Cabinets and countertaps deserve protection, but a workshop doesn't need a showroomgrade finish to do the job.

Selecting a finish for your shop involves slightly different criteria than a piece you're planning to display in your home. Much like choosing wood for a jig or fixture, the goal is as much about protecting surfaces from everyday wear as it is about looking good. The

trick is accomplishing both-as quickly and cleanly as possible. Following is a rundown of the materials and methods we used to finish our MOE and maple and birch plywood workshops, S4

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June 2009

plus tips for finishing with a minimum of fuss. Whether you're building a brand-new shop or want to give your old shop a new look, here are three fast finishes that should let you get right back to furnituremaking.

Painting-tough to beat a roller and brush Paint is not only easy to apply and durable, but it also serves as an effective way to unify sheet goods and solid stock. It doesn't matter if you use poplar, pine, maple or MOF-they all look the same after two coats. It's also an easy way to unify cabinets built over time or from miscellaneous materials. And for basement and garage shops, whitewashing

the interiors is almost as effective as in-cabinet lighting. Spraying may be speedier for large jobs, but when you add in prep and clean up, a roller/brush combo is faster for smaller jobs and on-site work. Mini rollers cover interior and exterior surfaces quickly, leave no brush marks, and are reusable hut also cheap enough to toss after use. With a good sash brush and a steady hand, you can paint next to finished walls and cabinets without painter's tape. Painting is simple, but these steps can ensure success. After the assembly of a cabinet or other shop project, touch-up sand with 180 grit and fix cracks and holes with wood filler or caulk. Do a quick inspection after the first coat to catch anything you missed.

Tip Alert Always test your gun's air and fluid settings on paper or cardboard before spraying your

cabinet.

Choose your paint wisely.

Wall paints lack abrasion and stain-fighting resistance. On the other extreme, exterior paints remain elastic and may stick to tools. Latex enamels and

epoxy paints provide the best stain and abrasion resistance, hut an acrylic polyurethane

topcoat offers the same effect.

Polyurethane-best done with a gun If you stepped up to hardwood ply then you'll want a finish to match. Water-based acrylic

polyurethane is a natural-looking choice. Acrylic polyurethane dries quickly and crystal clear, but what makes it ideal for small-shop finishing is

the abse nce off times or the flammability associated with other solvent finishes. An HVLP (high volume, low pressure) sprayer is a perfect partner to this fast-drying finish. Sprayers lay less finish than rollers, but once the cabinets and room are prepared, several cabinets can be sprayed in the time it would take to roll just one. Our shop took less than a day. Spraying in a sma ll shop involves a bit of a battle between dust and overs pray (fine mist that bounces off or misses your project). Protect your work and su rroundings with plastic sheeting on the walls Photos: Do1.J!! Rowan

and a canvas tarp on the floor. Apply two light coats and then scuff-sand the surface with 220 grit to level raised grain. Remove dust and loose grit with a vacuum or damp rag (tack cloths may leave a residue) and apply two more coats of poly. Unlike a roller or brush, cleanup can't be dismissed. Forget to clean your gun at the

end of the day, and you'll be sorry the next morning. Always spray warm soapy water through the gun until the passages run clear, then disassemble and lubri cate your gun as directed in your user's manual. •

Counters and benchtops: wipe-on polyurethane and wax Scratches and stains will happen, but you can postpone the inevitable. The polyurethane and wax two-step is easy to apply, effective at repelling glue and other staining agents, and a cinch to touch up when you wear through the surface. Don't be stingy with the poly. Apply the wipe-on as shown in Photo A; wait 10 minutes and wipe off the excess. Depending on the top (MDF will soak up more than maple), two or three coats should do the trick. Don't go overboard, Shiny surfaces look nice, but skating rink-slickness Is not useful in a workshop. Paste wax Isn't much of a finish, but the molecularly-thin fi lm does provide cheap insurance. After giving poly a day or two to cure, wipe on a thin coat with a rag or 0000 steel wool (Photo B). wait for it to hale, then wipe off the excess. (Don't worry. the wax swirls will wear off.)

counter and bench tops to seal the surfaces in the least amount of coats.

Use a rag to apply the wax, wait, then buff, Apply a fresh coat when glue drips start to stick, If you rub on a fresh coat of wax whenever the top looks worn or glue doesn't pop off like it should, the poly undercoat should last for years of hard wear.

June 2009

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W hat better floor for a woodworking shop than one made of wood? If you're lucky enough to have a basement or ded icated outbuilding with suFficient

headroom and a concrete floor that's dry and reasonably flat. wood flooring can't be beat as the starting point for a workshop. We chose southern yt:!lluw pine for the Woodcraft Magazine workshop ftoor for a number of reasons. First, It's affordable and widely availab le. The 1 x 6 tongue-aDd -groove boards cost Just under $3 per squa re foot in our neighborhood. Even though southern yellow pine Is a softwood. this flooring offers an excellent combination of durability, strength, and resiliency-which probably explains why it's been used for cent uries as flooring in residentia l and commercial buildings. As you' ll see on the pages ahead, a premium shop floor isn't difficult to install if you havt:! the right 56 woodcraftmagazine.com

June 2009

tools. You'll need a flooring nailer, by the Southern Pine Council (www.southernpine.com) and which you can rent from a local tool will work over any sou nd, d ry renta l outlet for about $25 a day. concrete slab floor. Or if you've The nailer comes with a special rubber-faced mallet, and the rental got a shop floor framed with joists and covered with underlayment, outlet will probably stock the I V." the yellow pine ca n be fastened flooring nails you'll need . Once the onto this subflooring. floor is down, trade in your nailer for an orbital floor sander ($40/ day) a nd an edge sander ($2S/day), to smooth the wood surface in preparation for finishing. While you can do the installation and finishing on your own, recruiting a ht:!1p~r will make the work go much faster. We installed flooring fro m Gr izz ly Forest Products (www.grizzly/oresc. com), but you can order floor ing from most lumberyards and building Stack the fl ooring in your shop and let it supply outlets. The several days to acclimate it to its new home. Use installation process we a moisture meter to determine that the fl ooring used is recommended has stabilized and is under 140 moisture content.

Prep t he floor

o Figure 1: Waocj f1oc~~atc)my

Tongue·a nd -groo .... e fl ooring

1 Begin by vacuuming the concrete floor to remove as much dust as possible. Then test the concrete to determine jf enough moisture is coming through the

slab to cause problems with the floor after installation. Do this by taping a 24 Ie: 24~ square of polyethylene sheeting to the concrete and waiting 24 hours before peeling it up. If

the underside of the poly is wet, your slab has too much moisture for a wood floor. A good way to

solve this problem is to coat the floor with a commerCial-grade moisture barrier, like Dostik's MVP4 (www.bostik-us.com). 2 To cover the concrete with a vapor barrier, first apply Armstrong 5-89 Asphalt Floor Ti le Adhesive onto the surface with a Vl ~n notched trowel. Apply an even layer about 40" wide, along

the longest wall that's opposite the shop's entrance. Then adhere a layer of 1S-lb. builder's felt (which comes in 36"·wide rolls) in the mastic lFigure 1). Repeat this application with a second course of builder's felt, overlapping the previous course by about 4". Cover the entire slab in this way. Next, using~" exterior-grade Ale plywood, instal! it plywood subflour at a 45° angle lo the walls. Keep the "A~ side of the plywood facIng up. Start the angled installation by cutting severaI4So·45°-90° plywood triangles to go along the wall. Maintain the diagonal orientation by installing square-ended panels adjacent to the angled panels. Now drill countersunk pilot holes in the plywood, spacing them every 24". Then use the speclally sized masonry bit that comes with the screws to bore at least

3

Opening photo: Ooug Rowan; Project photos: ):;en

Floor adhesive

Concrete floor ...---..

I" into the concrete. Now fasten the plywood to the slab wi th 1f4.)( 1%~ flathead self·tapping concrete screws. When laying the subfloor, pay attention to critica l clearances: allow 14"·lh" clearance between panels and 3.4" between panel edges and the walls. 4 Stack the flooring in the shop and let it acclimate as shown in Photo A. It helps to separate the bundles with wood ·stickers" made from scrap 1)( strips. Don't install the flooring until it reaches an equilibrium moisture content (EMC) of H% or less. It typically takes 5-14 days for southern pine flooring to attain EMC. Take readings with a moisture meter (Pho to A Inset) every day. When the readings are the same for several days, it's time to start the installation,

finished wall surface. That should leave a gap of about %" between the edge of the flooring (which has an actual width of 5W') and the finished wall. Stretch the chalk line tight before lifting it up (near the centcr) and releasing it to snap your layout line. 2 Using 6d finish nails every 16", face-nail the first course of floor boards to anchor thcm to the subfloor as shown in Photo Band referenced in the fastening detail in Figu re 2. Choose the longest, straightest flooring boards to make up this coul'se and align

lay down the tongue-andgroove flooring

1 Snap a line to tay out the first course. You want this line to be parallel to the longest wall in the workshop and about 6" from the Br~dy

Face-nail the first course of floor boards, spacing them){" to %h from

the wall. Jun e 2009

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57

Figure 2: Fasteni ng det ail

Base shoe 6d finish nail

lj." A-C plywood s

4d finish nail

floor

concrete floor

W'·lj~" gap be~ subfloor and flnlshcd wall

Iju l"/4"self.tapping concrete screw

them with the chalk line. face the

floor board tongues toward the center of the room. After securing the boards, anchor the tongue edge of this course to the sub floor by blind-nailing (toenailing) 4d finish nails as shown in Fig u re 2 . Blind-nail every 16", placing nails between the face nail locations. Set the nails with a nail set, driving the nail heads

Repeat the nailing technique to drive nails every 16", Slind-nail successive floor board courses. Face-nail the final course. As you get close to the opposite wall, use wood wedges to force tongueand-groove joints together. When there's not eno\lgh room to use the flooring nailer. toenail through the tongue using a pneumatic or cordless finish nailer as shown in

5

Photo E. Use a nail set to set these nails below the wood surface. 6 Rip the final course narrower so that there wil! be %" of clearance between the flooring and the finished wall if needed. Then USe a pry bar to force the final tongue-and-groove joint tight and secure the last boards in the last course by driving 6d finish nails every 16" as shown in Phot o F.

Sand and finish the floor Note: Before turning on the sanders, be sure to slip on a dust musk and protective eyewear. Have a shop vacuum ready to collect sawdust. If sanding in the basement, tape the basement door shut with duccor

ljI6"_1/ e" below the wood surface.

3 Layout your next several

courses officer boards. Select board lengths so that butt joints in adjacent ~ourses are offset by at least 2', Snug the next course against the nailed course by tapping the tongue to groove edges together using a 6"-8~-long block of scrap flooring as shown in Ph oto C. 4 Load the flooring nailer with barbed 1lj." flooring nails, and position the flooring nailer to blind-nail through the tongue edge of the board. Drive the nail by hammering on the nailer's drive head with the rubber mallet that comes with the nailer as shown in Photo D.

Fit the groove of the mating floor board to the tongue of the nailed floor board; tap into place with a piece of scrap flooring and hammer.

Use a flooring nailer and 1'/a" flooring nails to blind-nail the floor board to the subfloor.

When you no longer have the space to use the floor ing nailer, wedge the flooring board tight to its mating floor board and fasten it down.

Face-nail the final course of floor boards, using a pry bar to pull them tight to the neighboring floor boards. Maintain a W' gap.

Tip Alert Don't use the "factory ends when butt-joining adjacent boards in the same course. Instead, use a chop saw to make square, mirror-smooth end cuts to ensure tight butt joints. N

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June Z009

packing tape to limit the amount of sawdust penetrating the living spaces upstairs. 1 Sand the floor with an orbital or drum sander. The drum sander works more aggressively and should only be needed ifthe edges of flooring boards stand proud of adjacent boards after installation. Since our floor didn't have significant high spots, we got away with using an orbital

from General Finishes (High Performance Polyurethane) in a satin sheen. Following the manufacturer's directions, pour a small amount of crosslinking additive into the finish. This additive (Enduro Crosslinker from General Finishes) makes the finish harder, more durable, and adhere better. lise a clean mixing stick to blend the additive into the finish. Flow on and spread the first coat of finish. applylng it in the corner of the room that's farthest from the door and working out For finish we used General Finishes High Performan ce from there as shown Water-based Satin Polyurethane with Enduro in Photos I and J. Crosslinker; for applicators we chose an 18" Nylfoam For more control, Floor (oater for the main floor and a nylon bristled we transferred the finishing pad for cutting in along the edges. finish from the can into a clean spouted [nstall the baseboard shoe watering can. Pour a small amount offinish on the floor and then molding to the baseboard, use a squeegee-like applicator to driving 6d finish nails every spread finish evenly (ours is made 16". [fyou haven't attached the by Pad co; wwwpadco.com).Keep baseboard, then do it first and pouring and spreading until the follow with the shoe. To install baseboard, drive Bd finish nails floor is coated completely. Apply through the baseboard and four coals in total, letting each coat dry between applications. into studs at 16" centers . •

4

III

Move the sander along the lengths of the floor boards, evening any proud edges and raised ends.

5

sander with 100-grit sandpaper. Start sanding in the back corner ofthe room (farthest away from the door) and move the sander parallel to the flooring courses as shown in Photo G. Keep the sander moving and let the weight of the machine take care of downward pressure. Remove all the sanding dust from the shop. Clean sawdust off shelves, cabinets, and light fixtures, and then wipe down the walls to remove any dust that might contaminate the floor finish. Vacuum the floor thoroughly with a shop vacuum and wipe it off with rags. 3 Prepare the finish for application and gather your applicators (Photo H). We used a water-based polyurethane

2

, Cut in along the walls furthest from the door with the nylon pad, and follow with the larger applicator, applying small amounts of finish and then spread ing it evenly over the flooring. June 2009

woadcraftmagazine.com

S9

Sharp words for

cutting edges und erstanding how these sharpeners work starts with knowing the terms used to define the difference between a chisel that's sharper than a razor and one suited only for prying open paint cans.

Power Sharpeners Comparing convenience, edge quality, and cost. By Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

t

may not top the lis t, but in terms orinevitabilily and unpleasantness, sharpeni ng ranks up there with death and taxes. Most of us try to avoid it for as long as poss ible. The e nd result? Tools t hat aren't as sharp as t hey should be, work that may not look as crisp as it (ould, antI more time spent resuscitating a stack of dull, ragged cutting edges. Enter t he power sharpeners. For a price, these plug-in problem solvers produce razor-sharp tool s in short order. But are t hey really worth it? And does one edge out th e rest? To find out, we picked rnar.:hines representing each power sha rpening subgroup and then tested them usi ng every chisel and plane iron in our shop. More speci fic ally, we focused on each system's abilily to establish and refresh an edge. T hen we weighed th at agai nst the cost of a complet e system ( basi c m achine. plu s needed accessories). What you'll see here then is the shop-teste d results and other data to help you sele ct t he tool that best fits your needs and budget.

l apping- A sharp chisel requ ires a back that's as nat and highly polished as the beve l. Removing the mill marks, scratches, or rust pits is ca lled lapping. After the initial lapping, you will need to lightly lap the back to remove the wire edge produced when grinding the bevel. Grinding- More aggressive metal removal, usually reserved for changing the bevel or repairing a chipped edge. Honing- Minor metal removal. You can rehone an edge several times before regrinding. Hollow grind -Slight concavity caused by grind ing a flat face on a round wheel . A severe hollow can make a weak edge, but this isn't an issue with 8" and 10" diameter wheels. Removing steel from the middle of the bevel makes honing faster and easier. M icro-bevel-An extra degree or two added to the primary beve l. Micro-bevels are used to strengthen the edge and speed up the honing process. M~ may be honed on a flatOtholow-ground bevel.

, Flat-ground beve1

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