Knitting [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

KNITTING SECTION

1

Process Flow Chart of Knitting Yarn in Package Form ↓

Place the yarn cone in the creel ↓

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip tape positive feeding arrangement and tension device ↓

Knitting ↓

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting ↓

Inspection ↓

Numbering

Information about Yarn Source and Product Mix

The sources of Yarn are as follows

a. Fair Trade b. NRG Spinning Ltd c. Asia Spinning Ltd. d. Padma Textile e. Arif Textile f. Viyellatex Spinning g. Fuad Spinning

2

h. Thermax Melange Spinning Mills Ltd.

1.1.1 The following types of yarn are used

Composition Cotton Cotton Spandex Yarn Grey Melange ( C-95% V-5%) CVC Cotton PC (65% Polyester 35% Cotton)

Type Card Comb

Dyed

Yarn Count 26s , 30 s 24 s , 26 s , 30 s 20D, 40D, 70D 20 s , 30 s 26 s 26 s ,30 s 24 s ,26 s ,30 s

Ply Single Single Single Single Single Single Single

Produce Fabric or product Mix

Single Jersey a. Single jersey (Plain) b. Single Lacoste c. Double Lacoste

d. Polo Pique e. Fleece fabric

Double Jersey a. 1x1 Normal Rib

b. 1x1 Lycra Rib c. 2x2 Normal Rib

d. Interlock fabric

3

Engineering Stripe Types of Collar: a. Tipping collar b. Plain collar c. Waist bend collar d. Picot collar e. Raising collar f. Racking collar g. Folding collar

Machine Description Of Knitting Section • Circular Knitting m/c description M/c No.

Brand Name

Origin

Model

01

Terrot

Germany

Year of Manu S 296-1 2006

02

Terrot

Germany

S 296-1 2006

03

Terrot

Germany

2006

04

Terrot

Germany

13P 372 S -296

05

Terrot

Germany

I 1108

2006

06

Terrot

Germany

RH-216 2001

07

Terrot

Germany

S 296-1 2006

08

Terrot

Germany

S 296-1 2006

09

Terrot

Germany

S -296

2001

10

Well Knit Taiwan

NS/30 OF-PF

2005

2001

Types of the m/c Single Jersey Single Jersey Double Jersey Single Jersey Double Jersey Double Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey

Dia No of (in Feeder inch) 30 96

Gauge 28

No of M/c rpm Needle Max Min 2640 25.2 20

30

96

20

2640

25.2

20

36

84

18

25.2

20

30

96

24

2x204 0 2256

25.2

20

36

130

24

30

54

18

25.2

19.8

26

84

24

2x271 2 2x168 0 1944

25.2

21.5

26

84

24

1944

25.2

21.5

30

96

24

2256

25.2

22

24

72

24

1800

22

18

4

11

Terrot

Germany

12

Well Knit Taiwan

13

Terrot

14

Well Knit Taiwan

15

Jumberca

Spain

NS/30 2005 OF-PF SMIL-1 2006

16

Jumberca

Spain

SMIL-1 2006

Germany

S -296

2001

NS/30 OF-PF S -296

2005 2001

Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Auto Stripe Auto Stripe

30

96

24

2256

25.2

22

22

66

24

1656

22

16

30

96

24

2256

25.2

22

21

63

24

1584

22

16

30

48

24

2304

24

18

30

48

24

2304

24

18

• Flat Bed Knitting m/c Description M/c No.

Brand Name Origin

Model

Year of Manu

Type of the m/c

01

KAUO HENG KAUO HENG LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER KAUO HENG KAUO HENG LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER

KH313 KH313 LL602 LL602 LL602 LL602 KH313 KH313 LL602 LL501 LL602

2005

Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c

02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11

Taiwan Taiwan China China China China Taiwan Taiwan China China China

2005 2006 2006 2006 2006 2005 2005 2006 2007 2006

Bed Length (in inch) 54

Feeder

Gauge

Head

6

14

Single

54

6

14

Single

60

6

14

Double

60

6

14

Double

60

6

14

Double

60

6

14

Double

54

6

14

Single

54

6

14

Single

60

6

14

Double

42

6

14

Single

60

6

14

Double 5

12

China

13

LEADING TIGER MATSUYA

2007

Japan

LL501 M-100

14

MATSUYA

Japan

M-100

2001

15

MATSUYA

Japan

M-100

2001

16

MATSUYA

Japan

M-100

2001

17

MATSUYA

Japan

M-100

2001

2001

Computer Flat 42 Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c

6

14

Single

6

14

Single

6

14

Single

6

14

Single

6

14

Single

6

14

Single

Others Machines in Knitting Section a. GSM Cutter b. Electronic Balance

c. Fabric inspection m/c

Typical Parameter for Knit Section • For Circular knitting section Fabric Type

Yarn Type

Yarn Count

Stitch Length

GSM

Dia (in inch)

Gauge

S/J S/J Open S/J Tube S/J S/J S/J S/J Tube S/J Tube Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib

Comb Comb Comb CVC Dyed Dyed Card Card Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra

26s 26 s 26 s 26 s 30 s 26 s 30 s 26 s 30 s +40D 30 s +20D 24 s +40D 30 s +70D

2.84 2.80 2.86 2.90 2.84 2.84 2.76 2.86 3.0 2.61 3.05 3.0

160 160 160 170 140 165 140 160 240 220 260 240

26 26 30 22 22 30 24 24 30 30 36 30

24 24 24 24 24 28 24 24 18 18 18 18

Finish Dia(in inch) 60 52 31 23 23 72 25 26 30 30 36 30 6

Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Single Lecoste SingleLecoste Single Lecoste Single Lecoste Double Lecoste Terry Fleece Interlock

Comb+Lycra Card +Lycra Card +Lycra Comb Comb Comb Card Card

26 s +40D 30 s +40D 26 s +40D 24 s 30 s 26 s 30 s 26 s

3.05 3.0 3.05 2.90 2.64 2.76 2.56 2.62

240 240 250 240 175 230 180 200

36 30 36 36 30 36 30 24

18 18 18 18 18 18 18 24

36 30 36 72 64 72 68 42

Card Card

24 s 30 s

2.70 2.70

220 220

30 30

24 24

78 78

Card

20 s

3.20

220

30

20

80

Card

26 s

2.65

210

30

24

43

Gray Milange Gray Milange

30 s +20D

2.70

240

30

20

60

30 s

1.70

220

36

24

72

For Flat bed section (collar & cuff) Count 20 s 22 s 24 s 26 s 30 s 28 s (rarely used) 30 s(rarely used)

Ply 3 3 4 4 4 4 5

Course/cm 27-28 28-29 25 26 27-28 28-29 27-29

Important Parameter and their effect in fabric production

a. Stitch Length •

Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM

•

If fabric width increase then stitch length increase and WPI decrease

•

For deep shade stitch length should be higher and vice-versa

b. GSM 7

•

Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM

•

GSM increase with increase of stitch length and it is adjusted by VDQ pulley

•

Enzyme Level

•

Colour

•

Sueded or non-sueded

•

If shrinkage increase then GSM increase

c. Count •

If count increase then fabric width increase

•

GSM depends on yarn count

d. Gauge •

For finer gauge finer count should be use

•

If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease

•

If gauge decrease then stitch length increase

e. Feeder •

Production increase with increase no. of feeder

•

Feeder is setted incase of stripe fabric

f. Design •

Cam setting

•

Set of needle

•

Size of loop shape

Quality Control Of Knitting Section To produce high quality fabric it is necessary to inspect the fabric roll after receiving from different machine. This is done to assure the quality of the fabric before dyeing.

List of equipments used in inspection 8

a. Inspection m/c b. Electronic balance c. GSM cutter

Inspection Procedure As the fabric is produced by the circular knitting machine it is then collected by the quality inspector and the fabric is thoroughly inspected in front of a white light board. During this inspection the holes, oil marks, sinker marks, needle marks, barre effects are checked. If the fabric is within the acceptance level (by four point system) then it is sent to the batch section for dyeing or further treatment. In case of collar and cuff no inspection is done as the collars and cuffs are made in a very precise way by fully automatic or computerized machine.

Quality Standard Interstoff Apparels Ltd. Follows the four point grading system to inspect the body & rib of the fabric. It is to mention that no inspection of collar or cuff is not done here as these are produce in a very precise manner. In the four point system the faults are found by inspection and are given points against the fault. Then the total no. is calculated. The following table shows the four point system. Size of defects 3 inches or less Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch Over 9 inch

Four Point Grading System Penalty Points 1 2 3 4

Following Table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section at Interstoff Apparel Ltd. No.

Faults

Response 9

1. 2. 3. 4.

Needle Mark Stripe Barre mark Contamination and fly

5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

Slubs Thick thin place Birds eye Pin holes Wrong design Mixed yarn Sinker mark Missing yarn Holes Oil line/ stain Chemical Dirt stain Crease Line Uneven tension

Major needle line is rejected Major needle line is rejected Rejected Approved for colour but not for white shade 1 point is assigned 1 point Reject 1 Point 1 Point Reject Discuss with manager Major sinker mark is rejected Use 4 point Do Do Do Do Do Discuss with manager

Faults & their causes in knitting A. Barre: This is basically a fabric fault which is found in the course wise. This is due to •

Count variation in the same lot

•

Shade variation in the dyed yarn

•

Needle is too lose or tight in trick

B. Needle mark: This is a fabric fault which is found in the wales wise due to needle. The reasons are •

Breakage of hook of needle

•

Breakage of latch of needle

•

Change of alignment of latch

•

Due to improper schedule maintenance

C. Oil mark: This is a mark in the fabric due to oiling in the machine. Reasons are 10

•

Too much oiling in the machine

•

Leakage in the oiling system

•

Bad quality lubricant is used

•

Mixing of one quality lubricant with another one

D. Holes: This is a fabric fault which could be due to machine or yarn •Thick thin place in the yarn •Too much tension of yarn •Too much speed of the machine •Defective needle

E. Slubs: This is a fabric fault due to projected fibres • More formation of fly from the yarn • Bad quality of yarn use • The air circulation system by the fan is not sufficient • Fly could be come from the adjacent machine due to cleaning

F. Design Variation: • Variation of stripe in the machine • Wrong cam arrangement

G. Count Variation: • Different count of yarn package in the same lot • Different quality of yarn use in the same order 11

• Variation of count in the same package in different places • Use yarn of another company for the same production

GSM Variation: • Variation in the stitch length • Wrong position of the VDQ pulley • Improper tension of the fabric during production • Wrong selection of yarn count Others Contamination: Other than these there may be fault in the fabric due to dust of the area, impurities in the yarn, badly cleaned machine, impurities can be come from the operator hand due to splicing of yarn etc.

Collar Fault: •

Loop formation

•

Hole

•

Due to yarn

•

Needle mark

•

Oil mark

Production Calculation A. Production / shift in Kg at 100% efficiency

12

B. Production/shift in meter

=

=

C. Fabric width in meter

=

=

D. GSM Calculation

1. =

13

=

2. =

= E. Length calculation

=

Maintenance in the knitting section For proper running of the machine it is necessary to maintain the machine. This is done by cleaning the machine after every 15-20 days. This is basically the servicing of the machine. This is done because -

To maintain the quality of the fabric

-

To reduce the fabric fault

-

Removal of dust from the machine

-

Cleaning of different parts of the machine

During servicing the following things are checked weather they are in good condition or not. These are cleaned and also replaces if necessary. These are •

Needle

•

Sinker

•

Cam box

•

Sinker Cam

•

Cylinder 14

•

Full body

15