26 1 311KB
KNITTING SECTION
1
Process Flow Chart of Knitting Yarn in Package Form ↓
Place the yarn cone in the creel ↓
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip tape positive feeding arrangement and tension device ↓
Knitting ↓
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting ↓
Inspection ↓
Numbering
Information about Yarn Source and Product Mix
The sources of Yarn are as follows
a. Fair Trade b. NRG Spinning Ltd c. Asia Spinning Ltd. d. Padma Textile e. Arif Textile f. Viyellatex Spinning g. Fuad Spinning
2
h. Thermax Melange Spinning Mills Ltd.
1.1.1 The following types of yarn are used
Composition Cotton Cotton Spandex Yarn Grey Melange ( C-95% V-5%) CVC Cotton PC (65% Polyester 35% Cotton)
Type Card Comb
Dyed
Yarn Count 26s , 30 s 24 s , 26 s , 30 s 20D, 40D, 70D 20 s , 30 s 26 s 26 s ,30 s 24 s ,26 s ,30 s
Ply Single Single Single Single Single Single Single
Produce Fabric or product Mix
Single Jersey a. Single jersey (Plain) b. Single Lacoste c. Double Lacoste
d. Polo Pique e. Fleece fabric
Double Jersey a. 1x1 Normal Rib
b. 1x1 Lycra Rib c. 2x2 Normal Rib
d. Interlock fabric
3
Engineering Stripe Types of Collar: a. Tipping collar b. Plain collar c. Waist bend collar d. Picot collar e. Raising collar f. Racking collar g. Folding collar
Machine Description Of Knitting Section • Circular Knitting m/c description M/c No.
Brand Name
Origin
Model
01
Terrot
Germany
Year of Manu S 296-1 2006
02
Terrot
Germany
S 296-1 2006
03
Terrot
Germany
2006
04
Terrot
Germany
13P 372 S -296
05
Terrot
Germany
I 1108
2006
06
Terrot
Germany
RH-216 2001
07
Terrot
Germany
S 296-1 2006
08
Terrot
Germany
S 296-1 2006
09
Terrot
Germany
S -296
2001
10
Well Knit Taiwan
NS/30 OF-PF
2005
2001
Types of the m/c Single Jersey Single Jersey Double Jersey Single Jersey Double Jersey Double Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey
Dia No of (in Feeder inch) 30 96
Gauge 28
No of M/c rpm Needle Max Min 2640 25.2 20
30
96
20
2640
25.2
20
36
84
18
25.2
20
30
96
24
2x204 0 2256
25.2
20
36
130
24
30
54
18
25.2
19.8
26
84
24
2x271 2 2x168 0 1944
25.2
21.5
26
84
24
1944
25.2
21.5
30
96
24
2256
25.2
22
24
72
24
1800
22
18
4
11
Terrot
Germany
12
Well Knit Taiwan
13
Terrot
14
Well Knit Taiwan
15
Jumberca
Spain
NS/30 2005 OF-PF SMIL-1 2006
16
Jumberca
Spain
SMIL-1 2006
Germany
S -296
2001
NS/30 OF-PF S -296
2005 2001
Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Auto Stripe Auto Stripe
30
96
24
2256
25.2
22
22
66
24
1656
22
16
30
96
24
2256
25.2
22
21
63
24
1584
22
16
30
48
24
2304
24
18
30
48
24
2304
24
18
• Flat Bed Knitting m/c Description M/c No.
Brand Name Origin
Model
Year of Manu
Type of the m/c
01
KAUO HENG KAUO HENG LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER KAUO HENG KAUO HENG LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER
KH313 KH313 LL602 LL602 LL602 LL602 KH313 KH313 LL602 LL501 LL602
2005
Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c
02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11
Taiwan Taiwan China China China China Taiwan Taiwan China China China
2005 2006 2006 2006 2006 2005 2005 2006 2007 2006
Bed Length (in inch) 54
Feeder
Gauge
Head
6
14
Single
54
6
14
Single
60
6
14
Double
60
6
14
Double
60
6
14
Double
60
6
14
Double
54
6
14
Single
54
6
14
Single
60
6
14
Double
42
6
14
Single
60
6
14
Double 5
12
China
13
LEADING TIGER MATSUYA
2007
Japan
LL501 M-100
14
MATSUYA
Japan
M-100
2001
15
MATSUYA
Japan
M-100
2001
16
MATSUYA
Japan
M-100
2001
17
MATSUYA
Japan
M-100
2001
2001
Computer Flat 42 Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c
6
14
Single
6
14
Single
6
14
Single
6
14
Single
6
14
Single
6
14
Single
Others Machines in Knitting Section a. GSM Cutter b. Electronic Balance
c. Fabric inspection m/c
Typical Parameter for Knit Section • For Circular knitting section Fabric Type
Yarn Type
Yarn Count
Stitch Length
GSM
Dia (in inch)
Gauge
S/J S/J Open S/J Tube S/J S/J S/J S/J Tube S/J Tube Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib
Comb Comb Comb CVC Dyed Dyed Card Card Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra
26s 26 s 26 s 26 s 30 s 26 s 30 s 26 s 30 s +40D 30 s +20D 24 s +40D 30 s +70D
2.84 2.80 2.86 2.90 2.84 2.84 2.76 2.86 3.0 2.61 3.05 3.0
160 160 160 170 140 165 140 160 240 220 260 240
26 26 30 22 22 30 24 24 30 30 36 30
24 24 24 24 24 28 24 24 18 18 18 18
Finish Dia(in inch) 60 52 31 23 23 72 25 26 30 30 36 30 6
Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Single Lecoste SingleLecoste Single Lecoste Single Lecoste Double Lecoste Terry Fleece Interlock
Comb+Lycra Card +Lycra Card +Lycra Comb Comb Comb Card Card
26 s +40D 30 s +40D 26 s +40D 24 s 30 s 26 s 30 s 26 s
3.05 3.0 3.05 2.90 2.64 2.76 2.56 2.62
240 240 250 240 175 230 180 200
36 30 36 36 30 36 30 24
18 18 18 18 18 18 18 24
36 30 36 72 64 72 68 42
Card Card
24 s 30 s
2.70 2.70
220 220
30 30
24 24
78 78
Card
20 s
3.20
220
30
20
80
Card
26 s
2.65
210
30
24
43
Gray Milange Gray Milange
30 s +20D
2.70
240
30
20
60
30 s
1.70
220
36
24
72
For Flat bed section (collar & cuff) Count 20 s 22 s 24 s 26 s 30 s 28 s (rarely used) 30 s(rarely used)
Ply 3 3 4 4 4 4 5
Course/cm 27-28 28-29 25 26 27-28 28-29 27-29
Important Parameter and their effect in fabric production
a. Stitch Length •
Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM
•
If fabric width increase then stitch length increase and WPI decrease
•
For deep shade stitch length should be higher and vice-versa
b. GSM 7
•
Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM
•
GSM increase with increase of stitch length and it is adjusted by VDQ pulley
•
Enzyme Level
•
Colour
•
Sueded or non-sueded
•
If shrinkage increase then GSM increase
c. Count •
If count increase then fabric width increase
•
GSM depends on yarn count
d. Gauge •
For finer gauge finer count should be use
•
If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease
•
If gauge decrease then stitch length increase
e. Feeder •
Production increase with increase no. of feeder
•
Feeder is setted incase of stripe fabric
f. Design •
Cam setting
•
Set of needle
•
Size of loop shape
Quality Control Of Knitting Section To produce high quality fabric it is necessary to inspect the fabric roll after receiving from different machine. This is done to assure the quality of the fabric before dyeing.
List of equipments used in inspection 8
a. Inspection m/c b. Electronic balance c. GSM cutter
Inspection Procedure As the fabric is produced by the circular knitting machine it is then collected by the quality inspector and the fabric is thoroughly inspected in front of a white light board. During this inspection the holes, oil marks, sinker marks, needle marks, barre effects are checked. If the fabric is within the acceptance level (by four point system) then it is sent to the batch section for dyeing or further treatment. In case of collar and cuff no inspection is done as the collars and cuffs are made in a very precise way by fully automatic or computerized machine.
Quality Standard Interstoff Apparels Ltd. Follows the four point grading system to inspect the body & rib of the fabric. It is to mention that no inspection of collar or cuff is not done here as these are produce in a very precise manner. In the four point system the faults are found by inspection and are given points against the fault. Then the total no. is calculated. The following table shows the four point system. Size of defects 3 inches or less Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch Over 9 inch
Four Point Grading System Penalty Points 1 2 3 4
Following Table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section at Interstoff Apparel Ltd. No.
Faults
Response 9
1. 2. 3. 4.
Needle Mark Stripe Barre mark Contamination and fly
5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
Slubs Thick thin place Birds eye Pin holes Wrong design Mixed yarn Sinker mark Missing yarn Holes Oil line/ stain Chemical Dirt stain Crease Line Uneven tension
Major needle line is rejected Major needle line is rejected Rejected Approved for colour but not for white shade 1 point is assigned 1 point Reject 1 Point 1 Point Reject Discuss with manager Major sinker mark is rejected Use 4 point Do Do Do Do Do Discuss with manager
Faults & their causes in knitting A. Barre: This is basically a fabric fault which is found in the course wise. This is due to •
Count variation in the same lot
•
Shade variation in the dyed yarn
•
Needle is too lose or tight in trick
B. Needle mark: This is a fabric fault which is found in the wales wise due to needle. The reasons are •
Breakage of hook of needle
•
Breakage of latch of needle
•
Change of alignment of latch
•
Due to improper schedule maintenance
C. Oil mark: This is a mark in the fabric due to oiling in the machine. Reasons are 10
•
Too much oiling in the machine
•
Leakage in the oiling system
•
Bad quality lubricant is used
•
Mixing of one quality lubricant with another one
D. Holes: This is a fabric fault which could be due to machine or yarn •Thick thin place in the yarn •Too much tension of yarn •Too much speed of the machine •Defective needle
E. Slubs: This is a fabric fault due to projected fibres • More formation of fly from the yarn • Bad quality of yarn use • The air circulation system by the fan is not sufficient • Fly could be come from the adjacent machine due to cleaning
F. Design Variation: • Variation of stripe in the machine • Wrong cam arrangement
G. Count Variation: • Different count of yarn package in the same lot • Different quality of yarn use in the same order 11
• Variation of count in the same package in different places • Use yarn of another company for the same production
GSM Variation: • Variation in the stitch length • Wrong position of the VDQ pulley • Improper tension of the fabric during production • Wrong selection of yarn count Others Contamination: Other than these there may be fault in the fabric due to dust of the area, impurities in the yarn, badly cleaned machine, impurities can be come from the operator hand due to splicing of yarn etc.
Collar Fault: •
Loop formation
•
Hole
•
Due to yarn
•
Needle mark
•
Oil mark
Production Calculation A. Production / shift in Kg at 100% efficiency
12
B. Production/shift in meter
=
=
C. Fabric width in meter
=
=
D. GSM Calculation
1. =
13
=
2. =
= E. Length calculation
=
Maintenance in the knitting section For proper running of the machine it is necessary to maintain the machine. This is done by cleaning the machine after every 15-20 days. This is basically the servicing of the machine. This is done because -
To maintain the quality of the fabric
-
To reduce the fabric fault
-
Removal of dust from the machine
-
Cleaning of different parts of the machine
During servicing the following things are checked weather they are in good condition or not. These are cleaned and also replaces if necessary. These are •
Needle
•
Sinker
•
Cam box
•
Sinker Cam
•
Cylinder 14
•
Full body
15