4.1 Fabric and Garment Testing [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

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4.1.1 4.1.2 4.1.3 4.1.4 4.1.5 4.1.6 4.1.7 4.1.8 4.1.9 4.1.10 4.1.11 4.1.12 4.1.13 4.1.14 4.1.15 4.1.16 4.1.17 4.1.18 4.1.19 4.1.20 4.1.21 4.1.22 4.1.23 4.1.24 4.1.25 4.1.26 4.1.27

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FABRIC AND GARMENT TESTING VENDOR RESPONSIBILITIES................................................................................................. 2 RESPONSIBILITY OF MILLS/FABRIC SUPPLIERS ............................................................. 2 FABRIC EXCEPTIONS ............................................................................................................. 2 RESPONSIBILITY OF GARMENT MANUFACTURERS ...................................................... 3 SEWING THREAD – ALL PRODUCTS ................................................................................... 3 WOVEN FABRIC TEST PACKAGES ...................................................................................... 4 TEST PACKAGES FOR WASHABLE WOVEN FABRICS .................................................... 4 TEST PACKAGES FOR DRY CLEAN WOVEN FABRICS.................................................... 4 KNIT FABRIC TEST PACKAGES ............................................................................................ 5 TEST PACKAGES FOR WASHABLE KNITTED FABRICS .................................................. 5 TEST PACKAGES FOR DRYCLEAN KNITTED FABRICS .................................................. 5 WOVEN GARMENT TESTING PACKAGES .......................................................................... 6 DENIM GARMENT TESTING PACKAGES ............................................................................ 6 KNITS/TEES/SWEATERS GARMENT TESTING PACKAGES ............................................ 7 GARMENT DYED/HEAVY GARMENT WASHED PROGRAMS ........................................ 7 LEATHER GARMENT PROGRAMS ....................................................................................... 8 PERFORMANCE LEATHER STANDARDS............................................................................ 8 LINING PACKAGE .................................................................................................................... 8 SWIMWEAR GARMENTS (KNITS AND WOVENS) ............................................................ 9 UNDERWEAR GARMENTS (KNITS AND WOVENS).......................................................... 9 ADDITIONAL TESTING FOR WOVEN & KNIT FABRICS & GARMENTS ..................... 10 FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS ..................................................................................... 11 DOWN AND FEATHER REQUIREMENTS .......................................................................... 12 GENERAL COLORFASTNESS REQUIREMENTS ............................................................... 13 DENIM COLORFASTNESS REQUIREMENTS .................................................................... 13 PHYSICAL STANDARDS FOR WOVEN & DENIM FABRICS & GARMENTS ............... 14 PHYSICAL STANDARDS FOR KNITS/TEES/SWTRS FABRICS & GARMENTS ........... 15

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4.1.1 VENDOR RESPONSIBILITIES If for any reason a particular fabric cannot meet these standards, it will be the supplier’s responsibility to notify TH. All vendors must abide and adhere to TH Restrictive Substances (see Restricted Substance section).

4.1.2 RESPONSIBILITY OF MILLS/FABRIC SUPPLIERS            

The fabric supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the TH requirements and for the cost of such tests. In addition the fabric supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to TH but the supplier must keep them for review by TH personnel if any problems arise. All fabric testing must be done according to the list of "Fabric Testing" and “Additional Testing” packages. All must meet TH standards for testing. The mill must maintain these records for 6 years and they need to make this testing available to TH when requested. The TH record keeping offices may request these records at any time for review or for keeping. The fabric supplier must submit all fabrics from the bulk lot each season for fabric testing 30days prior to shipping. The fabric tests can be performed by a supplier's own laboratory (even if not approved). However all legal testing such as flammability, fiber content, rain testing, etc must be performed by a TH designated commercial laboratory. Additional testing may be requested by the individual divisions in development and sales sample stage depending on the specific fabric. Any testing must be performed according to the proper test method and conditions sited in the TH manual and industry publications (ASTM, AATCC, BS, etc). All testing must be available for viewing by the TH field auditors. Random checks and correlation testing will be made throughout the season. Failure to comply to TH standards and testing regulations, will result in a rejection of test reports. This would lead to a request for new testing at a TH commercially approved lab at the vendor’s expense. TH has the right to take action against violators. Fabric used for trim, lining, etc. must undergo the same testing procedures as regular fabrics. Testing of fabrics used in “Core” garments can be tested once every year. If failures are observed, seasonal testing maybe requested by the TH Global QA team. Fabrics used for Promotional styles must undergo the same testing procedures as regular fabrics if any type of commerce takes place (i.e. “Gift with Purchase”) or if a care label will be used. If no commerce takes place (and no care label), testing is not required.

Special attention must be paid to all fabrics containing a red color, as this is most likely to bleed.

4.1.3 FABRIC EXCEPTIONS 

The Vendor/mill is responsible for notifying TH (before bulk fabric is booked) if any fabric will not meet our current QA Global Manual standards. For any fabric that does not meet our requirements, a “TH Fabric Exception Form” (FEF) must be completed and forwarded to the TH Fabric Buying Office (FBO). If the FEF is not returned signed, or if not submitted prior to bulk, cancellation is without liability. Note: TH Fabric development/ Production (if FOB) should work with the mills to make sure that all new fabrics meet our quality standards.

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The supplier is responsible for listing any fabric performance that is lower than the TH requirements. If TH agrees to a fabric performance that is lower than the TH Global QA-manual, then these lower standards are only accepted for that particular fabric, season and garment. It does not imply that this fabric can be used for any other garments or in future seasons.

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All garment worksheets for that particular fabric should be reviewed by the division that is using the fabric in order to determine if the lower fabric performance can be agreed to without compromising the garment performance. If necessary TH Global QA should be consulted.

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Note: It is the division’s responsibility to follow through with the garment manufacturer(s) to assure that the garments produced from this fabric do not pose any problem for the consumer. 

The TH Fabric Exception Form must be signed by the fabric supplier (garment supplier for FOB programs) and by TH Global QA.

4.1.4 RESPONSIBILITY OF GARMENT MANUFACTURERS       

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The garment manufacturer is responsible to ensure that the fabric and all components supplied must meet TH standards. The garment manufacturer is responsible for ensuring their fabric suppliers are aware of the TH global standards. The factory must send representative garments from their bulk production (pre-production) 2 weeks prior to shipping to a TH designated commercial laboratory (see “TH Approved Commercial Laboratories” for a list of designated laboratories). The cost of testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier. All the required garment information must be given to a TH commercial laboratory. In-house supplier laboratories are not acceptable for garment testing. Garment testing is done to evaluate all the different components of a garment together while being cleaned a minimum of 3 cleanings according to the care label. The lab should evaluate for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage or anything that would make the garment look or feel undesirable. Special attention must be paid to trims, accessories and garment prints. Each style must be tested unless advised differently by TH Global QA. It may not be necessary to test all garment styles from the same supplier if they are very similar to one another, unless the type of different trims or accessories might create a hazard. All other garments from the same supplier that are similar and are not individually tested must refer back to the tested style (“Reference Style”). The garment testing does not replace the required fabric tests but is in addition to these. Core garments can be tested once every year if the style remains unchanged. If failures are observed, seasonal testing maybe requested by the TH Global QA team. The garment manufacturer must review all fabric reports from the mill prior to accepting any fabric shipments to ensure it meets TH standards. If any issues, TH Global QA should be immediately notified. These reports must be kept and made available to TH staff for 6 years. Prior to the cutting, the garment manufacturer must report any problems with the fabric, trims, accessories or the design/construction of the garment to the regional TH Garment Buying Office and suggest ways to correct the problem. Even though an approved fabric report exists, the garment manufacturer must test internally to ensure no problems with the garment and all the components. The garment manufacturer is responsible for the garment they are producing.

4.1.5 SEWING THREAD – ALL PRODUCTS 

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Monofilament thread or continuous filament thread must not be used on any garment.

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4.1.6

WOVEN FABRIC TEST PACKAGES

*See “Additional testing for woven & knit fabrics & garments” for additional testing that may be required (i.e. flammability).

4.1.7

TEST PACKAGES FOR WASHABLE WOVEN FABRICS

Test Package W-1

Test

All colors

W-3

One color only of each fabric type

Type of test

Dimensional stability to washing including appearance & skewing Tensile strength Tearing strength Seam slippage and strength

AATCC # 61 TH Test AATCC #107 AATCC # 15 AATCC # 8 AATCC #16E 20 units AATCC #135/179 Modified

After 3 washes Skew Stds: Wovens