The Lab Muffin Guide To Basic Skincare [PDF]

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the lab muffin guide to

BASIC SKINCARE the science of skin, explained simply Michelle Wong Prepared exclusively for [email protected] Transaction: 0087025189

Foreword COPYRIGHT NOTICE Written and published by Michelle Wong (labmuffin.com). Copyright © 2018 Michelle Wong and Lab Muffin Beauty Science. All rights reserved. All photos and illustrations by the author. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical or otherwise, without prior written consent from the publisher, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in a review. You may store the PDF on your computer and backups. You may print one copy of this book for your own personal use.

DISCLAIMER The information contained in this book is based on the author’s experience, knowledge and opinions as at March 2018. This book contains some general medical information however such medical information is not medical advice and should not be treated as such.

The information in this book is provided without any representations or warranties, express or implied. Further, and without limitation of the former, the author does not represent nor warrant that the information contained in this book is accurate, complete, current or non-misleading. The author and/or the publisher will not be held liable for any injury or loss, in any form or manner, caused by the use of the information in this book. You must not rely on the information in this book as an alternative to medical advice from your doctor or other professional healthcare provider. This book is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. If you think you may be suffering from any medical condition, you should seek immediate medical attention. Always seek the advice of your doctor or other professional healthcare provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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Thank you for buying The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare. I hope you’ll find valuable information in here, regardless of your level of skincare experience. I’ve spent over a year compiling this guide in response to the most common issues and questions I’ve received from readers over the years.

While a lot of the information in this book has been covered elsewhere in my blog and other content, I’ve had a lot of requests for a comprehensive, systematic guide. This will (hopefully!) be the first of a series of guides that will take you from the simplest skincare routine to more advanced products and procedures. I’ve done my best to provide accurate and up-to-date, evidence-based information, but scientific research is ongoing and there’s always new data being published. However, most of the information presented here is pretty well established, and should help you set up a solid foundation of good skincare habits that will last the test of time. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

About the Author Hi! I’m Michelle, a 30-something chemistry PhD grad who’s super passionate about skincare and science education. I’ve been writing about the science behind beauty products for the past 6 years. I started Lab Muffin in 2011, frustrated that there weren’t enough easy-to-understand explanations of the science behind beauty products. Since then I’ve covered all sorts of topics, from permanent make-up to snail slime to why your skin looks better in the morning.

I firmly believe that anyone can understand the science behind skincare and beauty, and if you can’t, it’s not your fault – it’s the fault of the person doing the talking (and sometimes, they’re trying to bamboozle you into believing them!). Cosmetic science should not be a mystery, and I am dedicated to helping my readers figure out which beauty products are really worth buying.

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

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Contents CHAPTER 1

INTRODUCTION

Hello Skincare! ................................................... 7 Frequently Asked Questions .............................. 8 Basic Skincare Vocabulary ............................... 10

CHAPTER 2

GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SKIN

Welcome to Your Skin .......................................17 Clean Out Your Routine ....................................18 How Does Your Skin Work? .............................. 20 Skin Types and Conditions ...............................22 Skin Type .......................................................... 23 Dehydration ...................................................... 26 Sensitivity ......................................................... 27 Acne .................................................................. 29 Aging ................................................................. 31 Hyperpigmentation .......................................... 33 Skin Assessment ............................................... 34 3

CHAPTER 3

SETTING UP A BASIC ROUTINE

Starting a Skincare Routine ........................... 37 Choosing Products ......................................... 40 Sneaky Marketing Terms ............................... 42 Controversial Ingredients .............................. 45 How to Build Your Routine .............................49 Skin Diary ........................................................ 52 Progress Photos ..............................................53

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

CHAPTER 4

CLEANSERS

Intro to Cleansers ........................................... 55 Cleanser Ingredients ...................................... 56 Cleanser pH .................................................... 58 Cleanser Types ............................................... 59 The Right Cleanser ......................................... 62 Don’t Worry About .......................................... 63 Make-up Removal ...........................................64 Your Cleansing Routine .................................. 66 Tips for Your Skin ............................................67

CHAPTER 5

SUNSCREENS

Intro to Sunscreen .......................................... 69 Sunscreen Terminology ................................. 70 Sunscreen Ingredients ................................... 74 The Right Sunscreen ...................................... 85 Don’t Worry About .......................................... 88 Your Sunscreen Routine .................................89 Extra Sun Protection Tips ...............................92 Vitamin D and Tanning ...................................93 Tips for Your Skin ............................................95 The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

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CHAPTER 6

MOISTURISERS

Intro to Moisturiser .........................................97 Moisturiser Ingredients .................................. 98 Moisturiser Types ......................................... 101 The Right Moisturiser ................................... 104 Don’t Worry About ........................................ 107 Your Moisturiser Routine ..............................110 Tips for Your Skin ..........................................111

CHAPTER 7

EXTRAS

Body Care ......................................................113 General Rules for Skin Conditions ............... 114 Dehydration-Prone Skin ...............................115 Sensitive Skin ............................................... 117 Acne-Prone Skin ........................................... 119 Aging Skin ..................................................... 121 Hyperpigmentation-Prone Skin ...................122 Make-up Tips for Dry and Oily Skin ..............123 Actively Seeking Actives ............................... 124 Product Recommendations .........................126

REFERENCES AND LINKS 5

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Hello Skincare! Your skin is your largest and most visible organ, so it’s no surprise that unhealthy skin is linked to poor overall health and low self esteem, and vice versa. But there are so many products and brands out there, all claiming that they’ll solve all your skincare problems. How do you figure out what will work best for your skin? In my experience, the best approach is to learn about your skin and what it needs. This involves both understanding the science of skin, and observing how your skin reacts to different products and routines. This way you won't get blindsided and waste lots of time and money on the wrong products! Skin is an endlessly fascinating subject. I started delving deeply into skincare over six years ago and I still find more articles to read than I can reasonably finish. Be prepared to discover a new obsession! 7

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Frequently Asked Questions WHICH PRODUCTS SHOULD I BUY? My specific product recommendations will change over time as new products hit the market and old products are discontinued, so I’ve only included a very limited set of recommendations at the end of this book. Instead, head to this page to see up-to-date product recommendations for specific skin types and conditions.

WHAT’S YOUR SKIN LIKE? I have oily/normal, dehydration-prone skin that also becomes more sensitive in dry weather. I get acne occasionally (particularly hormonal breakouts in the chin area), and develop hyperpigmentation very enthusiastically. I’m also starting to see lines around my eyes.

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

WHERE CAN I LEARN MORE ABOUT SKINCARE? While this guide is based on science, I haven’t exhaustively discussed all the aspects or referenced everything to try to stay more reader-friendly and concise. I’ve included the key references at the back of this book. My blog is also regularly updated with science-based skincare articles, so make sure you subscribe to the Lab Muffin mailing list to keep up to date!

WHAT’S YOUR ROUTINE? My routine changes quite a bit as I try out new products for review purposes. You can check out my blog and social media for the products I’ve got on high rotation.

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CAN I JUST USE THE SAME PRODUCTS THAT YOU/THIS CELEBRITY/MY BFF USES? Maybe, if they have similar skin to you! I would recommend researching to find a close skin match and to exercise caution. Many celebrities are paid to endorse products, regardless of whether they actually use them. And many people are genetically blessed with good skin no matter which products they use.

DO I NEED TO USE PRODUCTS FROM THE ONE BRAND? Definitely not! You can mix and match products to your heart’s content.

ARE EXPENSIVE PRODUCTS BETTER? Sometimes, but not necessarily! Most of the price of a product goes to marketing, packaging, transport… only a very small percentage goes towards the cost of the ingredients in the product. While some expensive brands spend more on research, many do not. 9

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Basic Skincare Vocabulary There are some technical and not-so-technical terms we’ll be using a lot when talking about skin. These are the ones we’ll come across quite a lot (most of these will be discussed in greater detail further on). Acid mantle

The low pH layer sitting on top of the skin. It’s made from acidic substances from sweat and sebum.

Acne

A skin condition characterised by pimples, most often on the face but also commonly on the back and chest. It can happen at any age but tends to start during adolescence.

Active ingredients (actives)

Ingredients that have a function beyond cleansing or adding moisture to your skin. They will generally change the structure and/or function of your skin to some extent. (This is a hazy distinction since many cleansing and moisturising ingredients will also change skin structure and function!)

Aging

The typical things that happen as you get older. In the context of skincare, this includes developing wrinkles, uneven pigmentation and sagging.

Barrier function

The ability of the skin to block outside substances (e.g. irritants, microbes) from entering and inside substances (e.g. water) from escaping.

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Carcinogenic

Cancer-causing.

Cleanser

A skincare product designed to remove accumulated dirt and oils from your skin.

Comedones

Clogged pores in the skin. If they remain open to the air they are called blackheads, and if they remain under the skin they are called whiteheads. Small comedones that cannot be seen without a microscope are called microcomedones. Comedones can progress to become inflamed pimples.

Cosmeceuticals

A marketing term that generally refers to products that contain actives, which have benefits on top of purely cosmetic effects (changing how skin looks). This is a pretty vague and inconsistently used term, and many products that could be classified as cosmeceuticals don’t label themselves as cosmeceuticals.

Dehydration

In the context of skincare, this is when skin lacks water.

Dermis

The lower layer of skin below the epidermis. It contains blood vessels, nerves, and hair follicles.

Dryness

When skin lacks oil.

Emollient

A type of moisturising ingredient that smooths and softens skin.

Emulsion

A type of product that contains oil and water mixed together. They are usually stabilised by emulsifiers. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Endocrine

Relating to the hormones.

Epidermis

The upper layer of the skin above the dermis. Its main purpose is to act as a barrier between your body and the environment.

Exfoliation

The shedding of dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. This can happen naturally, or it can be helped along with products or tools. Also called desquamation.

Extraction

Removal of build-up from pores e.g. popping pimples or squeezing out blackheads.

Facial

A skincare treatment that’s usually performed at a spa or clinic. Typically involves exfoliating, extracting, massaging and applying products to the skin.

Free radicals

Highly reactive substances with unpaired electrons. They have important roles in signalling pathways in your body, but they can also cause chain reactions with many other substances including DNA, proteins and lipids, leading to damage.

Hormones

Substances inside your body, particularly in the blood, that act as chemical messengers. “Hormones” often refers to sex hormones: estrogens (female) and androgens (male), which have different effects on the skin.

Humectant

A type of moisturising ingredient that attracts water, slowing its evaporation.

Hyperpigmentation

A condition where your skin has patches that are abnormally dark with extra melanin pigment. Hyperpigmentation includes sunspots and the brown marks left after acne.

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In vitro

Refers to experiments that are done on cells and tissues that have been isolated (“in glass”). In vitro results often do not accurately predict what happens in complex organisms like humans, but in vitro experiments are usually more convenient and straightforward to conduct and interpret.

In vivo

Refers to experiments that are done on whole organisms (“in the living”). These can be performed on animals (rats, mice, pigs etc.) or humans.

Inflammation

The body’s immune response to potential harm, like injuries, microorganisms and foreign substances. Common signs are redness, swelling, pain and heat. Antiinflammatory substances calm down inflammation.

Irritation

A state of inflammation which often involves pain and itching. Substances that cause irritation are known as irritants.

Lipids

Substances that won’t dissolve in water, including triglycerides (most fats and oils), fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides. In skincare, lipids are generally described as “oils”.

Mask

A skincare product that’s usually applied to the skin for a short period, then rinsed or wiped off. Most commonly used to intensely moisturise the skin or soak up oil.

Moisturiser

A skincare product that increases oil or water in the skin, either by adding them directly or by helping skin hold onto them more effectively. Can also include products that soften the skin in other ways. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Natural moisturising factor

Also known as the NMF. These are the natural humectant moisturising substances in your skin that help it attract and hold onto water.

Occlusive

A type of moisturising ingredient that seals in water and slows its evaporation.

Peel

A skincare treatment that uses chemicals to remove the outer layers of skin. Usually only removes the dead cells, and may not cause visible peeling.

Pigmentation

Darkening of the skin due to accumulation of brown melanin pigment. Can be natural (e.g. genetically brown skin) or caused by external factors like sun exposure or trauma (hyperpigmentation).

Pores

Small openings in the skin. They are mostly entrances to sebaceous glands, where sebum is made before being released onto the surface of the skin.

Scrub

A skincare product that contains grainy particles to help exfoliation.

Sebaceous filaments

A colloquial term for the material inside a pore than doesn’t cause a blockage and can be easily squeezed out. It mostly contains dead cells, sebum and bacteria.

Sebum

The natural moisturising lipids produced by the skin’s sebaceous glands. It flows out of pores onto the skin’s surface.

Serum

A skincare product that’s typically light in texture and contains active ingredients.

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Skin type

A skin classification. There are a few different ways of classifying skin, but the most common method in everyday use is based on the amount of oil your skin produces.

Stratum corneum

The layer of dead skin cells on the surface of your skin. Even though this layer is dead, it’s incredibly important in the function and appearance of your skin. Most skincare products target the stratum corneum.

Sunscreen

A skincare product that protects you from the sun’s high energy UV rays. In most countries they are strictly regulated as drugs and tested for effectiveness.

Surfactant

An ingredient in skincare and other cosmetic products that helps oil and water mix. Surfactants are the main ingredients in cleansers. They are also found in smaller amounts in most emulsion products including moisturisers and sunscreens, where they help stabilise the emulsion and stop it from separating. Also called emulsifiers.

Toner

A skincare product that's intended to rebalance your skin after cleanser.

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL)

Evaporation of water from the living layers of the skin. Increased TEWL is related to skin dehydration. It is often used in experiments as a measure of how well the skin is acting as a barrier.

T-zone

The forehead, nose and chin area that tends to produce more oil and experience more breakouts.

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

CHAPTER 2 GETTING TO KNOW YOUR SKIN The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Welcome to Your Skin Let’s get started! This first stage is all about getting to know how your skin behaves in its natural state, with all its unique quirks.

First, we’re going to strip back your routine to the bare essentials. This is so we can get rid of any influence your skincare products may be having. Then we’ll talk about skin types, and examine some common skin conditions so you can work out what your skin’s individual needs are. Finally, we’ll do a skin assessment. This map of your skin will come in handy later when you’re deciding which products to add to your routine!

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The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Clean Out Your Routine To start, we’re going to have to cut back your current skin routine to the basics. I know, this is a scary moment… but trust me on this. Skincare products can sometimes cause problems that your skin didn’t even have before, so it’s good practice to pause your routine every once in a while and take a fresh look at your skin.

STEP 1 Stop using all your products except for cleanser and moisturiser. Keep these as simple as possible. If you’re on any prescription products like Retin-A or Epiduo, keep using those. Since they’re long-term and less negotiable parts of your skin routine, the rest of your skincare should work for your skin while you’re using them.

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

A NOTE ON SUN CARE Sunscreen should be worn every day to prevent the environmental damage that builds up to cause aging and skin cancer. But since sunscreens are a common cause of clogged pores and irritation, I’d recommend that you skip it for this assessment week unless you’re going to be getting a lot of sun exposure, or there’s a medical reason you have to wear daily sunscreen (e.g. photosensitising medication). One week sunscreen-free shouldn’t make too much of a difference in the grand scheme of things! Make sure you practice sun avoidance this week however, to avoid unnecessary damage: stay in the shade, wear a hat, wear long sleeves…

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STEP 2 Keep up this minimalist routine for a week. As you get to know your skin better, you’ll be able to tell what’s going on after a few days, but a week is a good amount of time for your skin to reset. If you currently have no routine, then congratulations, you can start your skin assessment straight away!

WHAT IF I BREAK OUT? If you have any small breakouts during this time, you can spot treat them with your usual treatments like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or tea tree oil.

STEP 3 At the end of the week, assess your skin. Work out the key skin concerns in all the different regions of your face. Then we can start talking products! In the meantime, let’s learn about skin...

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The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

How Does Your Skin Work? To understand the purpose of a skincare routine, let’s look at how skin ideally functions. (This bit is pretty technical – if it’s too nerdy, feel free to skip to skin type and conditions!) Your skin consists of two main layers: the deeper dermis and the shallower epidermis.

EPIDERMIS The epidermis is 0.05–0.1 mm thick, and its main role is to act as a barrier between your insides and the outside world. Even though it’s very thin, it’s incredibly important and does a fantastic job.

DERMIS The dermis is the thick (1.5–4 mm) underlayer of your skin that gives it much of its “bounce”. It contains substances like collagen, elastin and ground substance (water-holding components like hyaluronic acid and electrolytes). The dermis thins with age, and abnormalities can lead to wrinkles. The dermis is the target of a lot of in-clinic treatments like injectables, but it’s too deep to be effectively treated by the vast majority of skincare products. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

epidermis

dermis

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STRATUM CORNEUM The stratum corneum (the “horny layer”) is a very thin layer at the top of your epidermis. It’s only 15–20 cells thick and the cells are dead so it seems pretty useless, but the stratum corneum is actually one of the most important parts of your skin! It acts as a barrier against physical harm, and stops microorganisms and chemicals from entering your body. It also stops water from evaporating from your skin, and protects it from oxidative and UV damage. The stratum corneum contains flattened cells (corneocytes) joined by protein structures called desmosomes. The cells contain tough keratin proteins and water-binding humectants called the natural moisturising factor, mostly made up of amino acids, ions, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) and lactate. In between the cells there’s a lipid matrix containing oily substances (mostly free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides) which act like a structured mortar between the cell “bricks”. This makes a tough barrier that’s both flexible and waterproof. 21

New cells are continually being formed in the lower epidermis, and old cells in the stratum corneum are constantly being shed at a rate of around one layer per day. This process is called desquamation. Your entire stratum corneum replaces itself around every two weeks. Most skincare products target the stratum corneum.

ACID MANTLE The liquid film on top of your skin is also slightly acidic (pH 4–6), thanks to sebum and sweat. This layer is known as the acid mantle. It’s important that this layer stays acidic as it keeps the balance of microorganisms on your skin in check, and many of your skin’s biological processes require a low acidic pH to operate at their best. If any of these parts aren’t working optimally, your skin’s condition will suffer. Luckily, a lot of these issues can be fixed with the right routine, and not even the fancy stuff – the right cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen can do wonders for your skin! The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Skin Types and Conditions Skin types and conditions are a way of classifying skin. These categories allow you to pinpoint what your skin needs, and therefore which products to use and how to use them most effectively.

SKIN TYPES Skin type classifies your skin based on how much natural oil your skin produces. Skin type is relatively stable over time. The main classifications of skin type are:

SKIN CONDITIONS Your skin may also be experiencing one or more skin conditions that will change your skin’s needs. Skin conditions can change a lot over time, and can usually be managed with the right routine. The most common skin conditions are listed below: •

Dehydrated

•

Sensitive

•

Acne

•

Dry

•

Aging

•

Normal

•

Hyperpigmentation

•

Oily

•

Combination

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Skin Type Skin type describes how much oil (sebum from pores, and the lipids in the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum) your skin produces.

DRY AND OILY Dry skin doesn’t produce enough oil, while oily skin produces too much. If you’re incredibly lucky, you may have normal skin where you have the right amount of oil – hurray for you! Many people experience combination skin, where skin may be dry in some areas (usually the cheeks) and oily in others (often the T-zone: forehead, nose and chin). While combination skin is often used as a classification on its own, it’s far more useful to specify whether each part of your face is dry, normal or oily.

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OTHER SKIN TYPE SYSTEMS There are a few other common skin typing systems: •

Fitzpatrick type: Commonly used by professionals when talking about pigmentation

•

Baumann type: Sorts skin into 16 types based on 4 dichotomies: dry/oily, sensitive/resistant, pigmented/non-pigmented and wrinkle-prone/tight.

sebum lipid matrix

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

WHAT’S MY SKIN TYPE? To work out if your skin is dry or oily, see which of these best describes your skin. If your skin is somewhere in between, then it’s normal skin.

SIGNS OF OILY SKIN •

Large pores and blackheads, especially in the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin area)

SIGNS OF DRY SKIN •

Prone to cracking, rough patches and flaking

•

Small pores

•

Often feels tight, especially after washing and if you don’t use moisturiser

•

Visible oil on skin (shiny) or greasy spots on pillowcase

•

Oil comes off skin when touched

•

Moisturisers often make the oil worse

•

Moisturiser sinks in easily

•

Prone to acne and breakouts

•

No shiny oil on skin, usually looks matte

•

Make-up slides around during the day

•

Make-up settles into fine lines or around skin flakes

Another test is the paper test. A few hours after washing your face, press a small piece of oil blotting paper on your nose or on your cheek next to your nose. If it sticks to your skin or shows a grease spot, your skin is probably oily. If it doesn’t stick and there’s no grease spot, your skin is likely to be dry.

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COMBINATION SKIN Remember that different areas of your skin (forehead, nose, cheeks) may fall into different categories, so examine them separately when doing your skin assessment. Most skin is combination skin to some extent!

WHAT AFFECTS SKIN TYPE? Oil production is determined mostly by genetics, but it can also be affected by temporary changes like stress, diet, hormone levels, the weather, and how you treat your skin. Skin also tends to become drier as you get older, and oil output can be changed by medications (e.g. isotretinoin, spironolactone, hormonal contraceptives).

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The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Dehydration Skin dehydration is a temporary situation that can happen to anyone. It’s when your skin doesn’t contain enough water to look and function at its best.

WHY DOES SKIN GET DEHYDRATED? Dehydration often occurs if your skin barrier is weakened, and the top layers of your skin can’t effectively prevent water from evaporating from the lower living layers. This is known as increased transepidermal water loss or TEWL. Dehydration often happens with cold and dry weather, air conditioning, harsh cleansing, overexfoliation and sun exposure. Just like dry and oily skin, there’s a genetic component to how prone your skin is to dehydration. Your skin may not show signs of dehydration all the time, but you’ll have to take extra measures to keep it hydrated when it’s exposed to dehydrating triggers. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

SKIN TYPE AND DEHYDRATION Properly hydrated skin should feel soft, smooth and plump. Both dry and oily skin can be dehydrated. Dry skin is more prone to dehydration since oil helps trap water in the skin. If your skin is oily but still feels tight and dry, like there’s oil sitting on a tough film of plastic, then it’s probably dehydrated. SIGNS OF DEHYDRATED SKIN •

Your skin feels tight after washing if you don’t apply a moisturiser immediately afterwards

•

Your skin feels significantly smoother after applying moisturiser

•

Your skin gets flaky easily

•

Pinching a 1 centimetre section of skin causes fine wrinkles to form

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Sensitivity One of your skin’s main functions is to keep out chemicals, whether they’re natural or manmade. The dead layers on the surface (the stratum corneum) act like a shield for the vulnerable, living layers lower down.

WHAT CAUSES SENSITIVE SKIN? Sensitive skin usually occurs when your skin’s ability to act as a barrier is weakened, so irritants and allergens can reach the living layers of your skin more easily and cause burning and stinging. A lot of sensitive-skinned individuals get red skin easily, but your skin may still be sensitive even without any visible redness or rashes. Dry skin is generally more prone to sensitivity since oil is important for keeping up a resistant skin barrier.

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SIGNS OF SENSITIVE SKIN •

Skincare products often make you break out in a rash, burn, itch, sting or swell up

•

You have had reactions to products like jewellery, laundry detergents, band-aids, latex gloves or dyes

•

You have been diagnosed with rosacea, atopic dermatitis, eczema, or contact dermatitis

•

Fragranced lotions and body washes make your skin burn, itch or sting

•

You need to be cautious about reactions when using new products

•

Your face goes red easily

•

Your skin feels uncomfortable when it’s hot, cold, dry or humid

•

Your skin often feels raw after rubbing against clothing for a prolonged period

The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

SENSITIVE SKIN DISORDERS If you’re unlucky, your sensitive skin might be severe enough to be classified as a disorder. Some common ones are: •

Atopic dermatitis: Also known as eczema. This condition involves itchy dry scaly patches, and is particularly common in children. It usually turns up on the face and neck, and in the creases of the elbows and knees.

•

Rosacea: A reactive condition where the skin flushes red, and broken capillaries and pimples may develop.

If you’re concerned that you might potentially have these conditions, see a dermatologist for a diagnosis and treatment plan. There are other less common disorders as well. If you have a rash that hasn’t gone away for more than a few weeks, I’d recommend that you see a doctor.

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Acne Acne affects about 80% of people at some point in their lives. Young adults (from adolescence to about the age of 30) tend to experience the most acne, though it can happen at any age. Males usually have more severe acne in their teenage years, but females are more likely to experience late-onset acne. Hormonal acne also affects women due to the fluctuation of hormones during the menstrual cycle.

WHAT IS ACNE? Acne involves blocked sebaceous gland ducts, commonly known as pores. Sebaceous glands produce sebum that flows to the skin’s surface through these ducts. Acne most commonly occurs in areas with lots of sebaceous glands: the face, neck, back and chest.

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Acne includes comedones: clogged pores that aren’t inflamed or visibly red. These can be closed whiteheads that lie under the skin, or open blackheads that have turned dark from air exposure. Inflamed acne can vary in severity, from small papules and pustules (red bumps with or without pus, less than 5 mm across), to more severe nodules and cysts.

WHAT CAUSES ACNE? It’s currently thought that acne is caused by a combination of 4 factors: high sebum production, clogged pores, Propionibacterium acnes bacteria and inflammation.

These are influenced by a bunch of things, including genetics, hormones, medications, skincare products, diet and stress. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

There are a few studies which have found links between diet and acne, but the results are often inconsistent. The strongest links are with low-fat dairy and high GI foods.

(red bumps with pus). If the blocked pores are deeper and more irritated, they become painful, deep nodules (solid lumps) and cysts (pus-filled lumps).

It’s a myth that unclean skin causes pimples. While gentle cleansing can potentially help lower sebum production and clogged pores, overzealous cleansing is more likely to cause inflammation, mess up the balance of beneficial bacteria and irritate your skin to produce more oil.

TYPES OF ACNE Acne starts as microcomedones, which are blockages in your pores that are too small to see. Blackheads (open comedones) and whiteheads (closed comedones or “clogged pores”) are the smallest visible type of acne and don’t involve redness. Once they’re more inflamed as the blockage spreads outside of the walls of the pore, they develop into papules (red bumps without pus) and pustules The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

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Aging Skin aging can occur either naturally, as a result of time passing, or from the buildup of damage from environmental aggressors like sun, cigarette smoke and pollution. Most people will have some signs of skin aging by the time they reach their 20s or 30s.

WHAT CAUSES AGING SKIN? There are two main categories of skin aging: •

WHAT ARE THE SIGNS OF AGING SKIN? Signs of skin aging include:

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•

Fine lines

•

Wrinkles

•

Sun spots

•

Sallow colour

•

Sagging skin

•

Dullness

Intrinsic (chronological) aging: This occurs with the passage of time. It includes accumulated damage from stray free radical byproducts of regular bodily processes, and the changes in your hormonal, immune and repair systems as you age.

Signs: Fine wrinkles, thin skin, less elasticity •

Extrinsic (environmental) aging: Damage from the environment, most often seen on exposed areas of skin (face, chest, hands). This is frequently called photoaging since the vast majority of environmental damage comes from the sun’s harmful radiation (mostly UV light). Signs: deep coarse wrinkles, scaling, spots

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BEYOND THE SKIN An “aged” look isn’t just about changes in the skin. There are also changes in the underlying structures that the skin hangs off, including: •

Fat distribution: The “padding” underneath the skin in your face changes position, generally moving downwards thanks to gravity.

•

Muscle tone: The muscles underneath your skin and fat become weaker in some places, and repeatedly crease your skin in other places forming permanently etched wrinkles.

•

Bone structure: Bone loss occurs with age. This particularly affects the eye, forehead and jaw areas.

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Hyperpigmentation Hyperpigmentation refers to patches of skin that have more pigment than usual. These patches are usually pale brown to purple-black.

WHAT CAUSES HYPERPIGMENTATION? Hyperpigmentation can be caused by a number of things:

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Sun damage

•

Aging

•

Inflammation (like the brown marks that stay around after your pimples fade, or coloured scars that develop after trauma)

•

Hormonal changes

Hyperpigmentation is genetically linked, and tends to be a bigger problem for darker skin (e.g. people of Asian or African heritage).

More severe cases of hyperpigmentation like melasma can occur due to hormonal changes like pregnancy, or from other underlying conditions.

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Skin Assessment Now that you know the different skin types and the most common skin conditions, you can more accurately assess your skin.

forehead

Once your skin has adjusted to the minimalist routine, fill in the following assessment chart. Wash your hands, grab a mirror, find a well-lit spot and take a good hard look at each area of your face. •

Skin type: Determine the level of oil in that area

•

Skin conditions: Indicate which ones you have in each area, noting down any specifics

•

Other notes: Any other relevant observations e.g. facial hair, specific sensitivities, breakout triggers

eyes nose cheek

chin/jawline

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Area

Forehead

Nose

Chin/Jawline

Cheeks

Eyes

Skin type Dry, normal, oily?

Dehydration Crepey lines when pinched?

Sensitivity Redness, stinging, rashes?

Acne Black/whiteheads, red pimples, deep lumps?

Aging Lines, wrinkles, sallowness?

Hyperpigmentation Dark patches of pigment?

Other notes

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CHAPTER 3 SETTING UP A BASIC ROUTINE The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Starting a Skincare Routine Now that you’ve gotten to know your skin’s default state, let’s start looking at how we can help it function best!

In this section, we’ll build a basic skincare routine from scratch. We’ll discuss how to select products, and how to use each product to maximise the benefits.

CLEANSER Removes unwanted substances (oil, dirt, dead skin cells, microbes) from your skin

MOISTURISER

WHAT’S IN A ROUTINE? Skincare routines can get very complex very quickly, so we’re going to start with the fundamentals. Here’s a quick overview of a basic skincare routine. There are many more fun and fancy things we can add to this routine later on, but these products are the most important to get right.

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Gives your skin water and oil to keep it working effectively

SUNSCREEN Protects your skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays

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A skincare routine can become as complicated as you’d like. But to begin with, you need these basic steps.

MORNING cleanse

moisturise

sunscreen

can often be combined

EVENING cleanse

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moisturise

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WHAT ABOUT SERUM? TONER? It’s easy to get swept up into the excitement of new skincare products. But one of the really annoying things about skincare is that the wrong products can do nothing for your skin, or even make your skin problems worse! There’s no shortage of poorly formulated products that dry out and irritate your skin for no real benefit.

Cutting back down to the basics will help you figure out what’s working and what’s not, so you can get the foundations right and build up as effective a routine as possible. Then we can think about adding serums and toners and all those other fun products. But how do you find the right cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen for your skin? And once you’ve found them, how do you use them? Let’s get started…

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Choosing Products There are a ton of products out there. I’ll be giving you information on what to look out for in products, but unfortunately you can’t predict everything with science alone (what a beautifully simple world that would be!) While there’s no substitute for trying the products out on your skin, this isn’t a particularly budget-friendly approach. Here are a few extra tips and resources for you to use when narrowing down your product choices.

The main ingredients in a product will be listed first. Ingredients that are present at less than 1% can generally be listed in any order, so the bottom of the list may be jumbled. Since ingredient percentages aren’t given and the way ingredients are combined can make a big difference, it’s a good idea not to take ingredient analysis too seriously. But it can be an extremely useful guide to whether or not a product is likely to work for you!

MAKE A LIST OF WANTS READING PRODUCT LABELS Labelling laws vary slightly between countries, but in general, ingredients lists state what ingredients are in a product in descending order by concentration (weight or volume).

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Different people judge products according to their own individual needs, whether skin-related or based purely on preference. Knowing your needs makes it more likely that you’ll enjoy and use a product. As well as skin type and condition, you might consider:

Prepared exclusively for [email protected] Transaction: 0087025189

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Packaging: Do you have a preference for or dislike of particular packaging types? e.g. jars, pump bottles, droppers, tubes, rigid bottles

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Scent: Which fragrances do you prefer, or do you want fragrance-free?

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Texture: Do you have a preference for runny products, gels, heavy creams?

•

Cost: Do you have a budget for your products? It may be worth considering the price per unit (mL, g, fl oz or oz) – simply divide the price by the amount of product to calculate this. Keep in mind that you’ll use different amounts of products e.g. you may not need as much of a heavy cream as a runny lotion.

CHECK ONLINE REVIEWS A way to check if a product might be suitable is to look for reviews online. Take note of the reviewer’s skin type and concerns – if they match yours and they like a product, there’s a good chance it’ll work for you too! 41

You can also try to target searches based on the preferences you worked out. Some places to look: •

Databases of user-contributed reviews like Makeupalley, acne.org, Product Review. Be careful of sites like Amazon, which has useful information but is very susceptible to fake reviews.

•

Blogs, YouTube, Instagram for reviews from bloggers (take note of which bloggers have a similar skin type and skin conditions to you).

•

Skincare forums e.g. Reddit, Beautyheaven, Essential Day Spa.

SAMPLES Make use of samples so you can try out the product on your skin for a decent amount of time before purchasing. You can buy samples from eBay and other online retailers, or ask for a sample from the store (you can take your own container and hopefully get a hygienic sample if you ask nicely). The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Sneaky Marketing Terms There are a lot of marketing terms that aren't regulated or well-defined, which means that anyone can use them to describe almost anything. Unfortunately a lot of brands will try to “educate” customers into looking for these labels that don’t mean much except make their products sound better.

However, studies haven’t consistently found certified organic produce to be safer in practice, and there are no known skincare benefits. Organic products also tend to be more expensive, and whether they’re better for the environment overall is still being debated.

Some common marketing terms are:

I personally don’t find that the unsubstantiated benefits of organic products are worth the additional cost.

ORGANIC In skincare, this generally refers to products with ingredients farmed in a way intended to be safer and more sustainable. In particular, organic farming uses “natural” pesticides, which makes them widely perceived to be better for your health. Certified organic products have to operate under guidelines set by the certifying organisation, but the word “organic” by itself is not regulated and can mean anything. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

NATURAL What does natural mean, exactly? No one can agree! Everything technically originated on Earth, so in a sense everything is natural. And to get into a jar of cream safely, ingredients all need to go through extensive processing, so in a sense everything in a beauty product is pretty unnatural. 42

In terms of safety and efficacy, “natural” doesn’t mean much. All skincare ingredients are made of chemicals, which are some combination of only around 25 different elements. Any “natural” ingredient can theoretically be synthesised in a laboratory. Your body can’t tell the difference between natural and synthetic molecules, because there isn’t any fundamental difference between them.

GMO-FREE GMO stands for genetically modified organism, which means a product of modern biotechnology. There are a lot of myths surrounding the safety of GMOs, but their safety is actually far more researched than conventionally bred organisms (which, it should be noted, have had their genes modified by humans for centuries, and are usually blasted with nuclear radiation to quickly increase mutations for genetic diversity). There also isn’t any fundamental difference between genetically engineered and conventionally bred 43

organisms – it’s simply the method of getting particular genes. GM is a much more precise and efficient method than waiting for mutations.

DETOX “Detox” is a commonly used word in alternative medicine. However, there’s no evidence that “toxins” accumulate in your body or skin, or that “detox” products will get rid of anything more effectively than our liver or kidneys already do. The makers of detox products are also usually unable to define what these toxins are. I personally go out of my way to avoid products claiming “detox” benefits on principle… unless reviews say the product is spectacular otherwise, and curiosity gets the better of me.

CLINICAL STRENGTH, COSMECEUTICAL Products bearing these labels should be formulated with effectiveness in mind, but it’s another unregulated, self-diagnosed marketing term that jacks up prices. There are many regular products that are more effective than many of these products. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

HYPOALLERGENIC, DERMATOLOGIST-TESTED

NON-COMEDOGENIC

This should mean that the product won’t cause allergic reactions, but it isn’t a regulated term. A study conducted in 2013 found that 89% out of 187 “hypoallergenic” products contained at least one ingredient known to cause allergic reactions. 11% contained 5+ allergens!

This theoretically means that a product won’t clog pores and cause pimples, but since it isn’t regulated there aren’t any rules for what this means. Good companies will run comedogenicity tests on human skin, but this rarely happens since it’s expensive and not required.

PATENTED

[INGREDIENT]-FREE

Just because an ingredient is patented doesn’t mean it actually works. Patents are written to prevent other people from profiting from a certain technology, so they are written with a legal intent. While they look very similar to peer-reviewed scientific papers, patents aren’t carefully checked for scientific accuracy or product effectiveness.

This label is slapped willy-nilly onto lots of products that never included that ingredient in the first place, much like how you can buy “gluten-free water”. The ingredients targeted in these designations are usually not harmful to the general population according to current science, and you should only pay attention if you’re actually allergic to them. Which leads us onto...

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Controversial Ingredients There are lots of ingredients that are rumoured to be unsafe, or toxic, or carcinogenic. This message is promoted a lot by marketers and special interest groups, and can be very convincing at first glance. It’s true that cosmetics in the past used ingredients that were later found to be harmful, like heavy metalbased face powders. But these days regulations are far stricter, and we have a much better understanding of how substances interact with the body.

LINKS TO HEALTH EFFECTS While “links” between ingredients and harmful health effects sound very scary, they are often very weak statistical effects that can’t be replicated in further studies. It’s technically impossible to prove or disprove something in science. Instead, scientists talk in terms of strength of evidence, so the more scientific the source, the less definitive it’ll generally sound. 45

THE DOSE MAKES THE POISON There’s also the principle of “the dose makes the poison” in toxicology, which means that harmful chemicals are only harmful in high enough amounts. This amount varies with the chemical. For example, food colouring doesn’t make you noticeably drunk even though it contains alcohol, because the dose required for getting drunk is way more than you’d usually consume. Similarly, there are safe quantities of every substance. We have the technology to measure minute quantities of substances now, so knowing that a product contains a particular toxin is pretty meaningless – chances are all products contain a molecule or two of that toxin! Some of the ingredients that have attracted scaremongering, but are safe in cosmetics (as far as we currently know) include: The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Synthetic ingredients

Every ingredient found in nature can be synthesised, and it’s impossible to tell apart the synthetic molecules from the natural ones. Synthetic ingredients can be harmful or helpful, just like natural ingredients. The most toxic chemicals in existence are all natural!

Chemicals

Everything is a chemical, including all the ingredients from nature! Water, oxygen, DNA… the only chemical-free product is empty space. I treat products that proclaim themselves to be “chemical-free” with a lot of suspicion – if the brand doesn’t understand basic chemistry, what are the chances that it understands how to formulate an effective product?

Petrochemicals

These are ingredients derived from petroleum (crude oil). While some things from petroleum are toxic, a lot of safe, beneficial chemicals also come from petroleum! Petroleum jelly, paraffin and mineral oil are excellent moisturisers for reinforcing a leaky skin barrier, for example (more on that later). Sustainability is generally not an issue with the petrochemicals in cosmetics, as the ingredients are created in surplus as byproducts of the process used to make transport fuels. Since these ingredients are non-toxic, biodegradability is usually not a big issue either, though research is ongoing.

Ethyl alcohol (ethanol or denatured alcohol or SD alcohol)

Ethyl alcohol (the same as in alcoholic drinks) is used in products to dissolve other ingredients for better penetration and make the overall formula feel lighter. It can temporarily dehydrate your skin, but there’s no good evidence that it causes your skin any additional damage. The dehydration has been found to reverse with moisturising.

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Preservatives

Preservatives are ingredients that stop or slow the growth of harmful microbes (bacteria, mould) in products. They’re usually mandatory in water-based products to avoid harmful infections. Some have a bad rap since they usually need to release a tiny amount of harmful chemicals to kill the microorganisms, which can cause irritation and allergies. But most preservatives are used in beauty products at levels that are safe and unnoticeable for humans.

Parabens

Parabens are probably the most well-known preservatives. The rumours that they were toxic started with a very poorly designed study on breast cancer tumours. While parabens are mildly estrogenic, they are far less estrogenic than soy or oral contraceptives, and they have a very long history of safe use. The very few health effects they’ve been linked to so far are very minor, and the links are not strong. It’s worth keeping an eye on new research, but the current evidence points to parabens being safe at the quantities found in consumer products, and we have far less data about the health effects of the preservatives that are being used to replace them.

Fragrance

Fragrance is a much-maligned ingredient by dermatologists and many skincare gurus since it’s a common cause of allergic reactions, but most people have no issues with it. There’s a theory that it causes “invisible inflammation”, but there isn’t much evidence for this. Fragrance also makes products more pleasant to use, and since a product won’t do anything unless you actually use it, it can be very important! If your skin is sensitive to fragrance, you may need to avoid it. But if you haven’t had any issues in the past, it likely isn’t worth worrying about. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Propylene glycol and butylene glycol

Ethylene glycol is found in antifreeze and is toxic if you drink it. However, its close cousins propylene glycol and butylene glycol are non-toxic.

Sulfates

Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are surfactants that are commonly used in cleaning products like detergents, shampoos and cleansers. There is a long-lived myth that they cause cancer, but this seems to be based on a similar-sounding ingredient that was removed from products in the 1970s. There are also potentially trace amounts of carcinogenic impurities in them, but the quantities are regulated to be far too low to have any effect. They are relatively harsh surfactants though, so they are more likely to cause irritation.

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How to Build Your Routine Building a routine can be overwhelming. Here are some time-tested strategies for getting there…

THE GOLDEN RULES OF SMART SKINCARE At any stage in your skincare journey, these are the two key rules for adding new products into your routine: ONE PRODUCT AT A TIME New skincare products should be introduced into your routine one by one, two weeks apart.

PATCH TEST FIRST Don’t apply new products all over your face. Test them out on small areas first to limit any potential reactions.

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WHY ONE PRODUCT AT A TIME? To build a routine efficiently, we’re going to take a concept from science: controlling variables. If we make one change at a time, any improvement or reaction is likely to be caused by that change. While it’s tempting to try everything at once, trialling products one by one is important. If you break out from a product, you’ll know which one you need to bin. It’ll also help you narrow down your skin’s triggers and avoid problematic products in the future, plus stop wasting money on products that don’t work.

WHY SO SLOW? Two weeks is a good amount of time for your skin to adjust to basic products so you can make an accurate assessment. Later on, with actives, it’s better to wait even longer! The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

HOW TO PATCH TEST

I’VE HAD A REACTION! WHAT DO I DO?

A word of warning: patch testing will not catch everything. For example, your cheek will not necessarily react the same way to a particular product as the rest of your face, so a cheek test isn’t a guarantee that you won’t break out elsewhere. You’ll also only be patch testing for a short period of time. That said, patch testing should catch severe reactions with the minimum amount of damage.

At this point in the process your products shouldn’t make you purge (when skin gets worse before it gets better). So if your skin gets worse, it’s most likely a reaction. What to do:

A suggested procedure: 1. 2.

Test a small sample overnight on two or three areas of your face. If no reaction occurs, test on a few more areas.

NOTE Cleansers generally do not require patch testing unless they contain harsh actives or your skin is very sensitive.

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Stop using the product.

•

Treat the issue (gentle products if it’s irritated, spot treatments if it’s breaking out – if you’re not sure, just leave it alone!).

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Wait for skin to settle down and return to baseline before trying a new product.

•

If you’re not sure which product is to blame, or if you want to make sure other factors like diet or hormonal fluctuations weren’t involved, you can try out a very small amount of product again on a small patch of skin that had the reaction.

When you move to more advanced products, you’ll have to work out whether a product is incompatible with your skin (breakout), or if it’s just purging. 50

WORKING OUT YOUR SKIN TRIGGERS The only way to work out your skin triggers is by using the ingredients on your skin, whether it’s through product testing or a dermatologist patch test. Unfortunately comedogenicity ratings are an unreliable way to predict if a product will make you break out. Much like the difference between raw egg and egg that’s baked into a cake, a cosmetic ingredient doesn’t behave the same alone as when it’s combined into a product. Different people also react differently to the same product. Keeping track of ingredients in the products you’ve used can help you identify which products are likely to cause reactions in the future, though it’s not completely reliable. SKIN DETECTIVE I recommend putting the ingredients of products that have caused the same reaction into a spreadsheet, so you can try to narrow down and track your skin triggers.

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Skin Diary A skin diary can be extremely useful while you’re going through this skin discovery process, as well as when you’re trying out new products.

Product

Morning

Evening

Cleanser

There are many ways to organise your skin diary. Some people prefer to use apps or spreadsheets, other people keep a notebook.

Treatments

Here’s one example that you can try out.

Moisturiser / Sunscreen

Breakouts? Skin condition?

Other notes Food, menstrual cycle etc.

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Progress Photos Before and after photos are very useful for charting your skin’s progress. Humans are pretty terrible at tracking slow changes over time. Chances are that, if you do everything right, your skin will change so gradually you won’t notice it!

phones won’t let you do this, but if you keep the position and background and your clothing colours consistent this shouldn’t be too much of an issue.

The tricky thing about photographs is that they can be misleading. For an accurate assessment, what you want is consistency. The most important factors are:

You want to photograph your face from a consistent position, with the same camera angle. A few beforeand-after phone apps can help you do this with an overlay. You can set up your camera in the same position each time by propping it up against a piece of furniture, or aligning your face with features in the background.

CONSISTENT LIGHTING Changes in lighting can hide scars and add shadows and tints to your skin. I recommend using artificial lighting at night to avoid variations in natural lighting. I also recommend using a camera with automatic white balancing turned off to avoid inconsistent colour. Unfortunately the default camera on most

POSITIONING AND CAMERA ANGLE

The way that the professionals do it in clinics is with a camera which forces your head into the same position, has in-built lighting and provides an overlay so you can line up your face properly. Now let’s pick some products!

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CHAPTER 4 CLEANSERS The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Intro to Cleansers The first step in any skincare routine is cleansing. Cleansing your skin is important for removing any products you’ve applied, as well as getting rid of dirt, excess sebum, microorganisms and dead cells. Unfortunately, cleansing is usually the most damaging part of a skincare routine. This is because cleansers contain ingredients called surfactants, or surface active agents: soap and detergent molecules.

your skin’s structure, making it feel tight and become leaky. Over time, the wrong cleanser can lead to dry, dehydrated, irritated skin. A good cleanser is one that removes all make-up, sunscreen and dirt while damaging your skin as little as possible. This is a delicate balancing act! Here’s what to look for…

Surfactants are nifty molecules that will bind to oil and wash away with water, so they can remove oily substances from your skin. However, surfactants can’t distinguish between your skin’s essential components and unwanted substances, so they’ll remove the proteins, lipids and NMF components that your skin needs to function properly! Surfactants also bind to proteins, and jam themselves into the waterproofing lipid matrix of your stratum corneum. This disturbs 55

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Cleanser Ingredients GENTLE SURFACTANTS

•

Avoid cleansers with harsh surfactants that significantly disturb the stratum corneum in the top 5 ingredients: •

True soaps: Often listed as “sodium XXate”: e.g. sodium laurate, cocoate, tallowate. They may also be listed as plant oils combined with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide (the ingredients used to make soap). This includes Castile soaps and “natural” soaps. While soap might sound gentle because it’s “natural”, it’s actually a terrible cleanser for your skin. Soaps have to be at a high alkaline pH to work, which messes up your skin’s acid mantle. Their structures are also small enough to penetrate deeply into skin and cause prolonged irritation.

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Sodium lauryl sulfate (aka SLS): One of the most common detergents in personal care products. Its structure is small so it is excellent at penetrating into the skin, making it very irritating.

Instead, look for milder surfactants. For example: •

Sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), especially in combination with cocoamidopropyl betaine

•

Sodium cocoyl isethionate

•

Alkyl sulfosuccinates (“XX succinate”)

•

Alkyl sarcosinates (“XX sarcosinate”)

•

Glucosides (decyl, lauryl, caprylyl)

•

Betaines

•

Coconut-based amphoteric surfactants (“cocoampho-”)

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SURFACTANT COCKTAILS Mixtures of surfactants tend to be gentler than a single surfactant, so multiple surfactants in the ingredients list of a cleanser is a good sign.

MOISTURISING INGREDIENTS If the cleanser contains some moisturising oils and humectants, they can help replace what’s been stripped from the skin during cleansing, and prevent the cleanser from stripping as much. Examples of these ingredients include stearic acid, plant oils and mineral oil (oils and other lipids), and glycerin and sorbitol (humectants). There’s more on moisturising ingredients in the moisturiser chapter.

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Cleanser pH CLEANSER PH High pH cleansers are more damaging. Your skin works best at a low acidic pH, so high pH alkaline cleansers can disturb your skin’s repair mechanisms, make your skin swell and reduce its flexibility. They can also worsen acne. Cleansers with a low pH (less than 6) are ideal. Unfortunately, most cleansers don’t have a labelled pH. You can check the pH of a cleanser yourself using pH test strips (I’d recommend test strips with multiple indicator squares over an electronic meter as those can give very different results depending on the formulation, and require calibration and upkeep), or do a Google search and hope that someone else has done it.

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Cleanser Types There are quite a few different types of cleansers, and it can be confusing to work out how you’re meant to use them! Here’s a selection:

BASIC FOAMING CLEANSERS The simplest type of cleanser. Lather up a small amount (an inch-wide circle) with your hands using some water, massage over your face for 10 seconds avoiding the eyes, then rinse thoroughly with water. Often called gel cleansers.

SELF-FOAMING CLEANSERS These are used like basic foaming cleansers, but they come in a special pump that mixes the cleanser with air so you don’t need to lather them up manually. They usually contain milder surfactants than regular foaming cleansers, but tend to get used up quicker. 59

CLEANSING MILKS AND LOTIONS These very gentle and moisturising cleansers can be used like a regular cleanser minus the foam, or may be designed to be wiped off the skin rather than rinsed off with water. You might need to apply them twice to completely remove dirt – wipe until your cotton pad, tissue or cloth comes away clean. They are sometimes referred to as cold creams.

CLEANSING OILS AND BALMS These oil-based products contain surfactants to help them rinse off your skin with water. Take a small amount and massage over dry skin. You may need to avoid the eyes – check the label to see if this is the case. Rinse off thoroughly with water (you’ll see the product turn milky). If the residue on your skin is unpleasant, you can follow up with a foaming cleanser (double cleansing). The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

MICELLAR WATERS Watery products that contain diluted gentle surfactants. Use like foaming cleansers, or pour onto a cotton pad and wipe over your skin. Generally these can be used in the eye area (check the packaging). Technically micellar water can be used by most people without rinsing, since their surfactants are very mild compared to regular cleansers. However, I’d recommend rinsing them off if you can, since the surfactants can still disrupt your skin.

CLEANSING WIPES Wipes pre-soaked with a gentle cleansing solution. These are handy for travel, but can be bad for the environment if regularly used as many of them are made of plastics that take thousands of years to decompose. You generally do not need to afterwards, but like with micellar water, rinsing may help if your skin is becoming dehydrated and irritated. Wipes can be too rough to use regularly on your skin. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

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EXFOLIATING CLEANSERS (SCRUBS)

SOLID (BAR) CLEANSERS

These cleansers usually contain scrubbing grains made of plastic (although these are being phased out) or natural materials like sugar, salt, pumice or jojoba wax. I classify them as exfoliants rather than cleansers – for most people, scrubs should be used rarely (twice a week or less), so they shouldn’t be your everyday cleanser.

Bar cleansers are generally more suitable for the body. Lather it up and use it like a regular foaming cleanser. Let the bar dry thoroughly between uses or it may disappear very quickly!

Rub a small amount gently in circles on wet or dry skin (dry will feel more intense), then rinse off.

POWDER CLEANSERS Powder cleansers work much like regular foaming cleansers once water is added. Mix the powder with water in your hand, lather, then massage over skin and rinse. They often have less preservatives which is good if you’re sensitive to them, but it isn’t something you need to look out for unless you have a specific sensitivity.

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OIL CLEANSING METHOD (OCM) The oil cleansing method is a popular gentle cleansing procedure. It involves rubbing an oil (or oil blend) on your face to dissolve grease and dirt, then removing it with a warm wet washcloth. Some oils that are commonly used include castor oil, olive oil, mineral oil and jojoba oil. With the oil cleansing method, It’s good to follow up with a surfactant-based cleanser to remove any dirty oil left behind. The oil is not a cleansing oil, so it doesn’t contain any surfactants to help it lift off the skin. Launder the washcloth regularly (every few days) to avoid a buildup of microorganisms.

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The Right Cleanser HOW SHOULD CLEANSED SKIN FEEL?

I NEED TO GET CLEANER!

After cleansing, your face should not feel tight or itchy. If you’re switching from a harsh cleansing routine, your skin might feel “unclean” after using a gentle cleanser, but it could in fact just be your skin feeling strangely normal! There should be still a thin film of oil on your skin after cleansing, so “squeaky clean” is unnecessary.

If your cleanser wasn’t enough, you have two options: switch to a harsher cleanser, or double cleanse with two gentle cleansers. Most people prefer the second option. Double cleansing is a staple of the “Asian skincare routine” and is catching on in the West. Depending on your cleanser and your make-up, you may need a separate eye make-up remover.

DID I CLEAN ENOUGH? If you’re unsure of how well a cleanser cleaned your face, you can try wiping a wet cotton pad (or a cotton pad soaked in toner or micellar water) over your face afterwards and looking for traces of dirt.

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AFTER CLEANSING Blot your face dry with a clean towel (avoid rubbing as it can irritate your skin). Then proceed onto the next step as soon as possible – damp skin is more prone to dehydration, and absorbs products more effectively.

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Don’t Worry About… AMOUNT OF FOAM

SHOULD I USE CLEANSING TOOLS?

This isn’t a good indication of how harsh or gentle a cleanser is.

Cleansing tools aren’t necessary, especially for your face. If they aren’t cleaned and thoroughly dried after each use, they can also harbour microbes that will multiply and infest your skin the next time you use them!

SOLID OR LIQUID Not all solid cleansers are true soaps! Some contain only gentle surfactants. Check the ingredients list to make sure. However, solid cleansers tend to be more suitable for use on the body.

I would recommend leaving out cleansing tools until later, when you’re looking at adding exfoliants.

YOUR SKIN FEELING “SQUEAKY CLEAN” It may take a while to get used to the feeling of a small amount of oil on your skin, which is what’s meant to be there. But on the flip side, squeaky clean doesn’t always mean overcleansed! There are ingredients that are added to some cleansers that give skin a squeaky feeling, for the people who love it. 63

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Make-up Removal If you wear make-up, your cleansing routine may need to be tweaked, especially if you use long-wear or waterproof make-up that’s designed to stick around.

CLEANSERS FOR MAKE-UP REMOVAL You don’t necessarily need a special cleanser for removing make-up, but these cleanser types are popular for gentle, thorough cleansing: •

Cleansing oils

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Cleansing balms

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Cleansing lotions

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Micellar water

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Oil cleansing method

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DOUBLE CLEANSING If your make-up is heavy, a double cleansing routine might work well. Double cleansing uses two cleansers for more efficient cleansing while minimising extra irritation. Many people use a cleansing oil or balm first to remove oily make-up while keeping irritating surfactants at a minimum, then follow up with a foaming cleanser to remove excess residue.

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MAKE-UP REMOVING CLOTHS

EYE MAKE-UP REMOVAL

These furry microfibre cloths let you remove make-up with only water! You wet the cloth, then buff it over your make-up in small circles. They work by friction – you’re rubbing off your make-up on a tiny scale.

It’s important to remove eye make-up since lingering particles can irritate your eyes and cause infections.

Like other forms of rubbing, this can irritate your skin if your make-up is too difficult to remove or if your skin is particularly sensitive. It also exfoliates, which can be good or bad depending on what your skin needs. They tend to work better with some types of make-up than others.

ELECTRIC CLEANSING BRUSHES Electric cleansing brushes like the Clarisonic work by jiggling or buffing over your skin. They’re usually designed to be used with a cleanser. Like make-up removing cloths they will exfoliate to some extent, so they shouldn’t be used too often (once or twice a week for most people).

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Most face cleansers will sting your eyes. You’ll probably want a separate eye make-up remover, especially for waterproof mascara or eyeliner. In general you’ll apply them to a cotton pad and swipe gently across the eye area. Some make-up removers especially designed for the eye area can still irritate sensitive eyes! If your make-up is particularly stubborn, you may need to hold the pad over your eye for longer to let the remover soak into your make-up. Try to be gentle around the eye area where the skin is thinner. Avoid tugging, and wiping too hard or too much. MUFFIN’S ROUTINE I use two-phase eye make-up removers since they can remove oil-based waterproof make-up effectively without common irritating ingredients.

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Your Cleansing Routine WHEN SHOULD I CLEANSE?

OTHER CLEANSING TIPS

You should only cleanse your face once or twice a day, plus when it gets unusually dirty. Remember – surfactants are damaging to your skin!

•

Don’t use hot water: Hot water lets surfactants penetrate deeper into skin and cause irritation, and strips essential skin components more.

Many people only need to cleanse once a day in the evening. There isn’t much that gets on your skin overnight that can’t be largely removed with water and blotting in the morning (leftover products from the previous night will have largely absorbed into your skin or come off onto your pillowcase, including any occlusives). There isn’t any need to worry about a film preventing your skincare ingredients from absorbing – it’s practically impossible for any skincare product to make a continuous film on your skin that lasts for more than a few hours.

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Don’t wait for cleanser to soak in: It doesn’t need time to penetrate – just massage and rinse.

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MUFFIN’S ROUTINE I don’t use a cleanser in the morning. I found that my skin was far less dehydrated once I switched to plain water! I wash my face in the shower in the evenings because I hate having water drip down my arms at the sink. I use a mix of cleansers depending on what I’ve been wearing on my face that day. My standard products are a cleansing oil or balm, followed by a self-foaming cleanser.

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Tips for Your Skin DRY SKIN To keep as much oil as possible on your skin, you should look at using cleansers that include oils in their formulas like cleansing milks and cream cleansers. The oil cleansing method might work well for you.

OILY SKIN

DEHYDRATION-PRONE

Oily skin (if not dehydration-prone) can handle harsher cleansers. Gel and foam cleansers can work well. Some cleansers for oily skin have mattifying properties too thanks to the inclusion of oil-soaking ingredients like clays.

Avoid harsh, drying cleansers, even if your skin is oily. Look for cleansers with humectants like glycerin and sorbitol to prevent excessive water loss from your skin, and moisturise your skin immediately after cleansing.

SENSITIVE You’ll need to pay more attention to the gentleness of the surfactants and whether there are moisturising ingredients in the cleanser. Cleansers for dry skin will usually be good for sensitive skin too. Wet skin is more delicate so treat it as gently as possible, and avoid exfoliating cleansers and cleansing methods.

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ACNE, AGING, HYPERPIGMENTATION Some cleansers contain active ingredients that target skin concerns. These ingredients are more effective and better value when included in leave-on products. However, they can still be useful in wash-off products, especially if they’re irritating and your skin is sensitive. Some of these actives: •

Acne: benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, sulfur, chlorhexidine, salicylic acid

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Aging: alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic acid, lactic acid), vitamin C

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Hyperpigmentation: alpha hydroxy acids, licorice extract, niacinamide

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CHAPTER 5 SUNSCREENS The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Intro to Sunscreen Sunscreen is essential in your everyday routine, not just when you go to the beach, for several reasons: •

•

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UV damage is the leading cause of skin cancers. Around 2 in 3 Australians will have had skin cancer by age 70 thanks to the intense sun. While it’s less severe in the US, it’s still the most common cancer with one melanoma death occurring every hour.

Sun damage is also the leading cause of skin aging. In particular, UV causes deep wrinkles, uneven texture and patchy pigmentation. While you might not see the damage when you’re younger, it will build up over time. If you aren’t already wearing a sunscreen though, don’t fret – a study found that wearing sunscreen daily caused skin aging to reverse! It’s thought that sunscreen can protect the skin from further damage and give it a chance to repair itself.

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Some of the actives that you’ll incorporate into a more advanced routine will make your skin more sun-sensitive. This means that instead of helping your skin look younger, they can potentially make your skin age faster by leaving it more vulnerable!

Daily SPF 15+ sunscreen use decreased the chances of both skin cancer and premature aging, in a study that started in 1992. Sunscreens have improved a lot since then, so you should be getting even more benefits! Even if you have dark skin, UV can still cause skin cancer and aging. Skin cancers are also often diagnosed at a more advanced stage in darker skin, when it’s harder to treat. There are a lot of sunscreens available, with confusing and technical labels. What do all those words mean? Which sunscreen should you use? Read on… The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

Sunscreen Terminology The most important consideration when picking a sunscreen is finding one to match your skin type and budget. It’ll also need to give you skin adequate protection for whatever activities you’ll be doing that day. Because sunscreen is an anti-cancer product, it’s usually regulated as a medication by the government. To show how effective a sunscreen is, there are a few regulated terms on sunscreen packaging that you should get familiar with:

SUN PROTECTION FACTOR (SPF) Sun protection factor or SPF tells you how much more UV your skin can handle before burning with the sunscreen on, compared to bare skin. For example, an SPF 15 sunscreen applied properly will allow your skin to handle 15 times more UV before burning. The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

SPF doesn’t tell you how much longer you can stay in the sun without burning with the sunscreen on, since the amount of UV changes dramatically throughout the day. But SPF is still a good way of comparing the protection offered by different sunscreens. For example, an SPF 15 sunscreen will let in twice as much UV as an SPF 30 sunscreen, provided you apply the same amount.

A larger number means more protection. It’s a myth that SPF 30 blocks 97% of UV and therefore SPF 50 won’t offer much more protection! However, above SPF 50 the measurements aren’t as reliable, so some countries don’t allow higher SPFs to be labelled. The exact procedures used to work out SPF vary by country, but they usually involve applying the sunscreen at 2 mg per square centimetre to human volunteers, then shining UV light onto their skin to see when burning (erythema) starts to occur. 70

A higher SPF sunscreen is good, as long as you can still apply enough! Higher SPF sunscreens tend to have greasier, thicker formulations, so it’s possible that you can apply more of a lower SPF product and end up with greater protection. Since it’s mostly (80–90%) shorter wavelength UVB that causes burning, SPF is commonly considered a measure of UVB protection, although longer wavelengths in the UVA region also contribute to burning.

UVA PROTECTION SPF mostly measures damage from shorter wavelength UVB rays. More recently, research has found that longer wavelength UVA radiation also causes damage (both cancer and aging), and can reach deeper into the skin. UVA is also able to penetrate most types of glass, and its levels are more stable throughout the day and across seasons. If you’re into skincare, UVA protection is nonnegotiable! 71

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For UVA protection, look for the phrase “broad spectrum” on your sunscreen or a UVA circle logo. This means that the UVA protection is proportionate to the SPF level.

PPD (commonly used in Europe): works much like SPF but for UVA. For example, PPD 15 means your skin can receive 15 times as much sun before undergoing the persistent pigment darkening (PPD) reaction with the sunscreen, compared to bare skin. PA (commonly used in Asia): gives a PPD range.

For Australian and European sunscreens, this means that the UVA protection level is at least one-third of the SPF level. For US sunscreens, this is less strict and means that 10% of the UV protection is for wavelengths longer than 370 nm (“critical wavelength” – this is a requirement for Australian and European sunscreens too).

Some countries also show a more specific numerical UVA protection factor (UVAPF), similar to SPF numbers. There are 3 common systems: The Lab Muffin Guide to Basic Skincare

• • • •

PA+: PPD 2–4 PA++: PPD 4–8 PA+++: PPD 8–16 PA++++: PPD 16+

Boots Star Rating (commonly used in the UK): gives UVA protection as a percentage compared to SPF. • • • • •

★ = 20–40% ★★ = 40–60% ★★★ = 60–80% ★★★★ = 80–90% ★★★★★ = 90–100%

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WATER RESISTANCE Water resistance regulations differ by country, but they are usually based on an immersion test where volunteers apply sunscreen, then sit in moving water for a set period before SPF is measured again. The higher the water resistance, the better the sunscreen will stay on your skin while you swim. However, you should carefully blot yourself dry with a towel after swimming, not rub, and you should reapply sunscreen after swimming if you plan to stay in the sun. Water resistance isn’t just good for swimming – it means the sunscreen should be more resistant to sweat, rubbing against clothes and sand, and being disturbed by make-up brushes and sponges too. It’s recommended that you use a water resistant sunscreen if it’s hot or if you’re going to sweat.

EXPIRY DATE Sunscreens usually bear an expiry date. While the sunscreen won’t suddenly stop working once it’s expired, its effectiveness won’t be guaranteed. 73

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Sunscreen Ingredients There are two categories of sunscreening actives (filters): •

Inorganic: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide

•

Organic: everything else

Inorganic sunscreens are often called “physical” while organic sunscreens are called “chemical”, although this is not entirely accurate. Note: Organic here means carbon-based, not produced via organic farming methods!

HOW DO SUNSCREENS WORK? All sunscreen ingredients work in pretty much the same way: they absorb UV and convert it into heat. Inorganic sunscreens and some particulate organic sunscreens also reflect and scatter a small amount (