Calypso Nieves The Sweet Snow Girl [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

C

Calypso

Cr chet

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

Nieves, the sweet snow girl C ollection

SWEET CHRISTMAS

First of all, I want to thank you for purchasing this pattern, it was made with a lot of love for all the crocheters who loves this beautiful art. I also want to remind you that this pattern and design is exclusive made by me, it took effort and hours of work, so I ask you to not share it on social media, or publish it on any site, thus, you help me to continue creating new pretty things. And I wish you a happy crocheting time, have fun! Any questions and / or suggestions? You can find me here: @calypso.boutiquee calypso.boutiquee [email protected] calypsoboutiquee

All material, trademarks or any other type of intellectual property of this pattern are property of Geraldyn Chirinos, and are subject to copyright. The reproduction, unauthorized modification, copy, use, loan, transmission and sc2togsemination of the material, whole or part, of texts, images, design, art, writing, trademarks or any other type of intellectual property of this pattern is prohibited. This material may not be sold or sc2togtributed in any way for profit or profit from it. December 2022.

Calyps

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

Ways to work with crochet

General notes

Level

Intermediate

Work in continuous rounds Work the last stitch of the round, then work the first stitch of the following round. To join the rounds, NO slip stitch is required. Instead, continue working each round on a spiral way with the type of stitch indicated.

Finished size 9 inches

(without the hat)

Work in joined rounds Join the last stitch of the round to the 1st stitch of the same round with a slip stitch, and chain one. Then, continue working in joined rounds. Work in joined turning rounds Join the last stitch of the round to the 1st stitch of the same round with a slip stitch, then chain one and turn your work.

1.

The steps explained in this pattern are for someone who does already knows how to crochet, therefore certain steps and procedures are expected to be known.

Work in rows You will no work in rounds. This means, you won’t join any round with a slip stitch. You’ll have to chain 1 (or more chains) and turn your work.

2.

When working in chains (ch), always begin on the 2nd ch from the hook, unless indicated otherwise.

About the yarn I use

3.

All decreases in this pattern, are to be crocheted using the invisible decrease technique.

4.

All single crochets when working in spiral on this pattern were made in X shape. If any part is worked in V shape single crochet, it will be indicated.

5.

You can select the hook and thickness of the yarn of your preference. This way, with the same pattern, you can make smaller or bigger dolls.

6.

You will find the correlating supporting images are referenced in the text by an F followed by a number, (eg. F12).

7.

If the way to work with crochet (details explained in the next section) is not specified, assume that the default way to crochet is in continuous rounds.

You can use the type of yarn you want and the thickness you prefer, but if you wonder what type of yarn do I use exactly, it is 100% cotton, in the thinnest number (8/3) (this is the measurement system used in my country). This means that the yarn has three threads per strand and it’s produced locally. You can use the one called “Super Fine weight“ (No. 1) or “Fine weight” (No. 2). Any of those will be fine. Here you can see the information of the label, for your reference:

Calyps

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

Material list z

100% thin cotton yarn, in colors: Salmon Red Terracotta

Body and head Scarf, socks Hair

Black

Hat, boots, belt, headband

White

Dress

z

1.75mm crochet hook, clover brand

z

Stitch markers

z

1mm galvanized wire

z

10mm safety eyes

z

Fiberfill

z

Scissors

z

Cardboard

z

Tapestry needle

z

Blush or chalk pastel

z

False eyelashes (optional)

z

Black tape

z

2 small black buttons

z

Acrylic paint in light brown (optional)

z

2 small buckles (optional)

z

Hair straightener

z

2 medium buttons to close the dress

z

Black sewing thread

z

White felt or interlining

Stitches abbreviations ch Chain R Round Rw Row mr Magic ring sk Skip stitches st, sts Stitch, stitches slst Slip stitch sc Single crochet sc-inc Increase of single crochet (2sts in one st) sc-inc3 Double increase of single crochet (3sts in one st) sc-inc4 Triple increase of single crochet (4sts in one st) sc2tog Decrease of single crochet (close 2 sts together) sc3tog Double decrease of single crochet (close 3 sts together) hdc Half double crochet hdc-inc Increase of half double crochet (2sts in one st) hdc-inc3 Double increase of hdc (3sts in one st) hdc2tog Decrease of hdc (close 2 sts together) dc Double crochet dc-inc Increase of double crochet

Calyps

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

BPsc Back post single crochet

Special stitches

BLO Back loops only FLO Front loops only TLO Crochet through horizontal bar only (aka 3rd loop only) FO Fasten off FOLLT Fasten off, leaving a long tail. JSL Join with slst JCH1 Join with slst and chain 1 JCH2 Join with slst and chain 2 JCH3 Join with slst and chain 3 CHT1 Chain 1 and turn CHT2 Chain 2 and turn

Stitches symbols

Back post double crochet (BPdc) Yarn over, and insert your hook from back to front between the posts of the first and second double crochet of the row below and then from front to back again between the posts of the second and third stitches(1). Yarn over, and draw the yarn around the post of the stitch. Yarn over, and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on the hook, twice(3).

1

2

4

3 Click to watch the video tutorial

Throughout the pattern, you will find crochet pattern graphics. Here’s what each symbol means:

Chain (ch) Slip stitch (slst) Single crochet (sc) Single crochet increase (sc-inc) Single crochet double increase (sc-inc3)

Back post single crochet (BPsc) It is the same steps of the BPdc, but instead of making a double crochet, you’ll make a single crochet, inserting the hook between the posts the same way.

Click to watch the video tutorial

Calyps

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

General instructions R 1 (4 sc, sc inc)xN, 7 sc [74] The total sts of the round x N times Repeat the sts inside the round brackets Current round Click to watch the video tutorial

BLO

FLO

TLO

BLO Insert your hook underneath the back loop only and make the st. FLO Insert your hook underneath the front loop only and make the st. TLO Insert your hook underneath the third loop of the st. { ... } Make all the sts inside curly brackets in the same st. sk N When it is written sk followed by a number, it means that you will have to skip that number of stitches of the previous round, you will not crochet that N number of stitches.

FLO* [...] When you see that a round or row begins with FLO (just FLO), it means that you will

crochet the whole round in front loops only, but, when you see FLO * [...], it means that you will crochet only in front loops the stitches placed inside the square brackets, and make the rest of the stitches of that round on both loops.

Now get your yarn and hook and let's get started!

Calyps

Pag. 8

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

Arms (make 2 ) Start with salmon R1

mr, 6 sc

[6]

R2

(sc, sc-inc)x3

[9]

R3

9 sc

[9]

R4

2 sc, 2 sc-inc3, 5 sc

[13]

R5

13 sc

[13]

R6

2 sc, 2 sc3tog, 5 sc

[9]

9 sc (17 rounds). FO.

[9]

R 7-23

Do not stuff the arms.

Cut a piece of wire about 9.8 inches long (the length will vary depending on the thickness of yarn the you use). Fold the wire as shown below in the images. The size of the fold should be the same size of the sole of the foot. Insert the wire into the doll’s foot and stuff with fiberfill. Stuff the legs as you work.

R6

6 sc, 4 sc2tog, 5 sc

[15]

R7

6 sc, sc3tog, 6 sc

[13]

13 sc (17 rounds)

[13]

R 25

sc, sc2tog, 4 sc, FLO* [3 sc-inc], 3 sc

[15]

R 26

15 sc

[15]

R 27

sc, sc-inc, 5 sc, 2 sc2tog, 4 sc

[14]

14 sc (8 rounds)

[14]

6 sc, sc-inc, 7 sc

[15]

15 sc (2 rounds)

[15]

6 sc, sc-inc, 8 sc

[16]

16 sc (2 rounds)

[16]

R 8-24

R 28-35

Legs (make 2 )

R 36 R 37-38 R 39

First 2 rounds of legs

Work all the way around the foundation chain.

Left leg

R 40-41

Change to white R 42

Start with salmon R1

ch 6, sc-inc, 3 sc, sc-inc4, 3 sc, sc-inc

[14]

R2

2 sc-inc, 3 sc, 4 hdc-inc, 3 sc, 2 sc-inc

[22]

R3

BLO 22 sc

[22]

R4

22 sc

[22]

R5

8 sc, 3 sc2tog, 8 sc

[19]

Nieves

16 sc

[16]

Make 3 sc more (these sts won’t count as part of any round) and FO.

Right leg Start with salmon R 1-35 R 36 R 37-38

Same as left leg 13 sc, sc-inc

[15]

15 sc (2 rounds)

[15]

Nieves

Calyps

Pag. 9

R 39 R 40-41

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

14 sc, sc-inc

[16]

16 sc (2 rounds)

[16]

Change to white R 42

16 sc. Do not cut yarn.

[16]

Body Keep with white R 44

Leg joining

R 43 Make 8 sc more on the right leg or as many stitches as it takes to get in the inner side of the thigh (these sts won’t count as part of any round) and ch 3 (F1), join to the left leg making one sc in the 2nd st or the st that is on the inner side of the thigh (this sc will be the beginning of each round), then make: 15 sc more in this leg, 3 sc on chains, 16 sc on the other leg and 3 sc on the base chains. You will have a total of 38 sc. See graphic 2. Continue with the body.

F1

7 sc, sc-inc, 18 sc, sc-inc, 11 sc

[40]

40 sc (4 rounds)

[40]

R 49

5 sc, (sc2tog, sc)x2, 17 sc, (sc2tog, sc)x2, 6 sc

[36]

R 50

6 sc, sc2tog, 18 sc, sc2tog, 8 sc

[34]

R 51

4 sc, sc2tog, 20 sc, sc2tog, 6 sc [32]

R 45-48

Change to salmon R 52

(6 sc, sc2tog)x4

[28]

R 53

28 sc

[28]

R 54

(5 sc, sc2tog)x4

[24]

24 sc (5 rounds)

[24]

R 55-59

Arm joining Note When you first insert your hook into the arm, make sure the thumb is pointing forward. This rule is for both arms, so you can change the joining st if necessary.

R 60 Make 6 sc on the body, 2 sc on the arm and the body at the same time, starting in the 1st st of the arm, (insert your hook first in the arm, inside out and then in the body) (F2-F3). Continue making 10 sc on the body, 2 sc on the arm and the body at the same time, starting in the 4th st of the arm, in the same way as described before and finally make 4 sc on the body. You will end up with 24 sc. See graphic 3.

Graphic 2 Front Left leg 16 sts

Right leg 16 sts

Start

End

Back

R 61 In this R, skip the 2 joining sts of the arm and the body. Make 6 sc on the body, 7 sc on the unworked sts of the arm (F4), 10 sc on the body, 7 sc on the unworked sts of the arm, and 4 sc on body. You will end up with 34 sc. See graphic 4.

Calyps

Pag. 10

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

F2

F3

Nieves

Graphic 3 Front

Left arm

Right arm

Body

Back

Start

End

Graphic 4 Front

Left arm

F4

F5

F7

Back

F6

F8

Right arm

Body

Start

End

Cut two pieces of wire the size of the arm plus about 4 inches, fold one end as shown in F5 and cover it with tape (F6). Insert them into each arm (F7) and twist them to the main wire of the body (F8). Stuff the top of the arms, chest and shoulders very well. Remember to stuff as you crochet. R 62

5 sc, 4 sc2tog, 10 sc, 4 sc2tog, 3 sc

[26]

R 63

4 sc, 3 sc2tog, 8 sc, 3 sc2tog, 2 sc

[20]

R 64

(3 sc, sc2tog)x4

[16]

R 65

(2 sc, sc2tog)x4

[12]

12 sc (3 rounds)

[12]

R 69

BLO 12 sc

[12]

R 70

(4 sc, sc2tog)x2

[10]

10 sc (10 rounds)

[10]

R 66-68

R 71-80

Close the neck hole and FO.

Nieves

Calyps

Pag. 11

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

Start stuffing the head and go stuffing it as you work.

Head Attach yarn on front loops of round 68 of the neck (F9) and make: Start with salmon R1

12 sc-inc

[24]

R2

(sc, sc-inc)x12

[36]

R3

(5 sc, sc-inc)x6

[42]

R4

3 sc, (sc-inc, 6 sc)x5, sc-inc, 3 sc [48]

R5

(7 sc, sc-inc)x6

R6

4 sc, (sc-inc, 8 sc)x5, sc-inc, 4 sc [60]

R 7-20

60 sc (14 rounds)

[54]

R 26

(3 sc, sc2tog)x6

[24]

R 27

sc, (sc2tog, 2 sc)x5, sc2tog, sc

[18]

R 28

(sc, sc2tog)x6

[12]

R 29

6 sc2tog

[6]

Close the hole and FOLLT. With the long tail, embroider the nose, one round below the eyes taking 3 sts (F14). Embroider the eyebrows with terracotta yarn, one round above the eyes (F15). If you need help, you can watch this video of how embroider the eyebrows.

F10

[60]

F9 F11

Eyes Draw the outline of the safety eyes on a fabric that does not fray when cutting (it could be interlining or thin felt). Then, starting from that circle, draw the shape you want the eyes to look like (F10). Cut two pieces of it and make a hole in the center (F11), then insert them into the fabric and glue them (F12). Insert the eyes in the head between rounds 12 and 13 counted from bottom to top), with 9 sts of space between them (F13). R 21

4 sc, (sc2tog, 8 sc)x5, sc2tog, 4 sc [54]

R 22

(7 sc, sc2tog)x6

R 23

3 sc, (sc2tog, 6 sc)x5, sc2tog, 3 sc [42]

R 24

(5 sc, sc2tog)x6

R 25

2 sc, (sc2tog, 4 sc)x5, sc2tog, 2 sc [30]

[48] [36]

F13

F15

F12

F14

Calyps

Pag. 12

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

R 11 This round will be the most complicated of the dress. This is because you’ll have to see very clearly every chain of the previous row. All the sc in this round will be worked on the chains, so skip all the slst of the previous row.

Dress Work in rows. Start with white Rw 1

ch 23, 22 sc. CHT2

[22]

Rw 2

BLO 3hdc, 4 hdc-inc, 8hdc, 4 hdc-inc, 3 hdc. CHT2

[30]

Rw 3

TLO hdc-inc, 2hdc, (hdc-inc3, 6 hdc)x2, 2 hdc, hdc-inc3, 6 hdc, hdc-inc3, 2 hdc, hdc-inc. CHT1 [40]

Rw 4

BLO 5 sc, ch 3, sk 9, 12 sc, ch 3, sk 9, [28] 5 sc. CHT1

Rw 5

FLO 28 sc. CHT1

[28]

Rw 6

BLO 28 sc. CHT1

[28]

Rw 7

FLO 6 sc, sc-inc, 14 sc, sc-inc, 6 sc. [30] CHT1

Rw 8

BLO 30 sc. CHT1

[30]

Rw 9

FLO 5 sc, sc-inc, 9 sc, sc-inc, 8 sc, sc-inc, 5 sc. CHT1

[33]

Rw 10

Nieves

In each chain loop you will repeat the following sequence: (skip the 1st ch, 1 sc in the 2nd ch, 1 sc in the 3rd ch, 3 sc together in the 4th ch, 1 sc in the 5th ch and 1 sc in the 6th ch, skip the last ch). You will repeat what is in red brackets a total of 32 times (See graphic 5, green row). At the end you will have 224 sc. When you get to the end, join to the 1st sc with a slst and ch 1. R 12 BLO skip the 1st st (the one you joined with slst), then make: (2 sc, sc-inc3, 2 sc, sk 2)x31 times, and then 2 sc, sc-inc3, 2 sc, skip the last st and join with slst to the 1st sc of this round and ch 1. You will still have 224 sc (See graphic 5, fuchsia row). R 13-21 Repeat the previous round 9 more times. At the end, FO.

Make all the chains loosely. Make: slst, (ch 7, 1 slst)x32. (F16) You must have 32 loops of 7 chains (F17) (See graphic 5, blue row). Join to the other side of the dress making one slst in the 1st slst of this row (F18). Ch 1. Now work in joined rounds.

Graphic 5

F16

Nieves

Calyps

Pag. 13

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

F17

F18

F19

F20

Sleeves

F21

F22

F23

F24

F25

F26

Work in joined rounds. Attach yarn in the armhole (F19) and make: Start with white R1

3 sc on base chains, 1 sc on corner, [14] 9 sc on unworked sts, 1 sc on corner. JCH1

R2

BLO 14 sc. JCH1

R3

BLO (sc, ch 3)x14. JSL and FO.

[14] [56]

Attach yarn in the opening back of the dress, on right side (F20) and make 10 sc on that side, 2 sc on the bottom, 4 sc, ch 12, 5 sc, ch 12, 1 sc on the other side, making this way two loops for the buttonholes (F21) FO. Sew two buttons on the other side (F22). In case you don’t want to sew buttons, skip the chains and sew the both sides together (F23). Sew two black button on the front (F24). To make the belt: ch 35, start working on the 3rd ch from your hook and make 33 hdc, FO. Put a buckle according to the width of the belt (F25) and sew the belt to the dress (F26).

Calyps

Pag. 14

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

Nieves

Hair Base Start with terracotta R1

mr, 8 sc

[8]

R2

FLO 8 sc-inc

[16]

R3

FLO (sc, sc-inc)x8

[24]

F27

Strands

Always start making the strands on the 3rd chain from your hook. First layer Do not cut the yarn, you will now make the first layer of strands. These will be joined to the last round of the base with a slst. For each stitch of that round, one strand will be made (24 strands in total). Strand 1: ch 23, 20 hdc, 1 sc [21]. Join to the next st with slst. Strand 2: ch 13, 10 hdc, 1 sc [11]. Join to the next st with slst. Strand 3-4: ch 12, 9 hdc, 1 sc [10]. Join to the next st with slst. Strand 5: ch 13, 10 hdc, 1 sc [11]. Join to the next st with slst. Strand 6: ch 23, 20 hdc, 1 sc [21]. Join to the next st with slst. Strand 7-24: ch 35, 32 hdc, 1 sc [33]. Join to the next st with slst. When you finish the last strand, FO. (F27) Second layer Turn your work, and with the wrong side facing you, attach the yarn to the front loop of round 2 of the base, placing it above the first strand of the first layer (F28). On this layer, you’ll make 8 strands (one for every 2 sts of round 2 of the

base): Strand 1: ch 30, 28hdc [28]. Skip the next st of the base and join to the next one with slst. Strand 2-3: ch 15, 13hdc [13]. Skip the next st of the base and join to the next one with slst. Strand 4: ch 30, 28hdc [28]. Skip the next st of the base and join to the next one with slst. Strand 5-8: ch 37, 35hdc [35]. Skip the next st of the base and join to the next one with slst. When you finish the last strand, FO. Third layer Attach the yarn to the front loop of round 1 of the base (F29). On this layer, you’ll make 4 strands (one for every 2 sts of round 1 of the base): Strand 1-4: ch 39, 37hdc [37]. Skip the next st of the base and join to the next one with slst. When you finish the last strand, FO. Iron all the strands with a hair straightener (F30-F31). Sew or glue the hair to the head, placing the 1st layer first (tie the top layers together while doing this) (F32), placing the short strands towards the front (strands from

Nieves

Calyps

Pag. 15

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

1 to 6). After the glue dries or you finish sewing the first layer, place the strands of the 2nd layer on top of the 1st one, placing the short strands towards the front and glue or sew them. Finally, glue or sew the 3rd layer of strands.

F28

Boots (make 2)

First two rounds of boots.

Work all the way around the foundation chain. Start with black

F29

R1

ch 6, sc-inc, 3 sc, sc-inc4, 3 sc, sc-inc

[14]

R2

2 sc-inc, 3 sc, 4 sc-inc, 3 sc, 2 sc-inc

[22]

R3

sc, 2 sc-inc, 5 sc, 2 sc-inc, 2 sc, 2 sc-inc, 5 sc, 2 sc-inc, sc

[30]

R4

BLO 30 sc

[30]

30 sc (2 rounds)

[30]

R 5-6

Cut a piece of cardboard the size of the sole and glue it to the boot (F33).

F30

F32

F31

R7

11 sc, 4 hdc2tog, 11 sc

[26]

R8

9 sc, 4 hdc2tog, 9 sc

[22]

R9

8 sc, 3 sc2tog, 8 sc

[19]

R 10

Make 1 slst in the 1st st, then ch 2 (F34) and make a hdc in the same st. Continue with 18 hdc more. JCH2. You will have a total of 19 sc. Now work in joined rounds.

R 11

19 hdc. JCH2

[19]

R 12

19 hdc. JSL and FO.

[19]

Attach the yarn to the front loops of R 3 of the boot sole (F35) and make 30 slst. FO.

F33

F34

Calyps

Pag. 16

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

F35

Nieves

F39

Socks (make 2)

Scarf

Start working on the 3rd ch from your hook. Work in rows. Start with red

Start working on the 3rd ch from your hook. Work in rows. Start with red

Rw 1

ch 27, 25 hdc. CHT2

[25]

Rw 1

ch 62, 60 hdc. CHT2

[60]

Rw 2

TLO 25 hdc. CHT2

[25]

Rw 2

TLO 60 hdc. CHT1

[60]

Rw 3

BLO (3 hdc, hdc2tog)x5. CHT2

[20]

Rw 3

BLO 60 sc. FO

[60]

Rw 4

BLO 20 hdc

[20]

Turn your work. Fold the last row made forward (F36), ch 2 and join the remaining front loops of row 3 with slst (F37), then make a slst in each loop until you reach the end (F38) [20]. FOLLT. Place the sock on the boot and with the long tail sew through the back (F39).

Tie pieces of yarn to each end of the scarf and untie them to make the bangs.

F36

Hairdress

F37

F38

Hat

Work in joined rounds. Start with black R1

mr, 8 sc. JCH2

[8]

R2

8 hdc-inc. JCH2

[16]

Nieves

Calyps

Pag. 17

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

R3

(hdc, hdc-inc)x8. JCH1

[24]

R4

24 BPsc. JCH1

[24]

24 sc. (4 rounds) JCH1

[24]

(4 sc, sc2tog)x4. JCH1

[20]

R 10

20 sc. JCH1

[20]

R 11

20 sc. JCH3

[20]

R 12

FLO 20 dc-inc. JCH1

[40]

R 13

BLO 40 slst. JSL and FO. (F40)

[40]

R 5-8 R9

To make the red hat band: ch 23 and crochet 22 sc, then FOLLT. Place a buckle according to the width of the band (F41) (you can embroider the buckle if you don’t have one). Then sew the band to the hat. You can also add some decorative leaves or any other decoration you prefer.

F40

F41

Headband Measure the top of the doll’s head, from one side to the other. Cut a piece of wire, the length of your previous measurement multiplied by two, and add about 2cm. Once the wire is cut, fold it as shown in F42, placing both ends of the wire in the center. Then twist the wire and cover

most of it with tape, leaving the ends uncovered (F43-F44). Fold the wire as shown in F45, the folded wire has to match the shape of the doll’s head (F46). Then with black yarn, make a slipped ring and tie it to one end of the wire, (passing it through the loop) (F47). Then make as many single crochet stitches as you require until you get to the other end of the wire (passing the yarn under the two wires) (F48-F49). Once you get to the other end, cut a long strand. Using a needle to help you, roll the strand several times inside the loop at the end of the wire (F50) to secure it. Then cut the yarn and hide it. Finally, sew the headband to the hat with black sewing thread (F51).

F42

F43

F44

F45

F46

F47

Calyps

Pag. 18

By Geraldyn Chirinos De Sousa

F48

Nieves

F49

F50

F51

Finishing touches Glue the false eyelashes on each eye (this is optional, you can also embroider them if you want so). Add some blush or pastel chalk on each cheek and knees. Mark with black marker the lower edge of the eye Paint some freckles on each cheek and slightly above the nose with acrylic paint and a brush. You can also embroider them if you want so or you do not have paint.

And that's all! I hope you enjoy! Happy crocheting! Do not forget to mention me in your networks if you make my Nieves doll, I would be very happy to see your work. And remember that you can not share the pattern, doing that, you help me to make nice things for you in the future!