Ak F.A.Q. Dioramas Water Ice&snow [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

COMPOSITION STEP

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CONSTRUCTION BY

STEP

1.2

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GUIDE

ASSEMBLY BY

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PAINTING

MASTER

MODELER

N O EXTENSI

n s , ice and BY RUBEN

THE

WEATHERING

GONZALEZ

COMPLETE GUIDE FOR DIORAMAS AND ENVIRONMENTS

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e g n w a r e t n ma produc a r o i d products new

After a long time of study, research, tests and tryouts we are proud to introduce to you our new Diorama product range inside our DIORAMA Series. You will find multiple effects, from different types of water to snow, many ground types from wet to dry, asphalt, concrete and so many more. Ground splatter effects to achieve more realism on certain parts, as vehicles, buildings etc. You will also find a two component product to make the most realistic water possible. And a very special product to recreate snow using micro-balloons and many new upcoming surprises from this evolving Diorama Series range. These new range will make your diorama build so easy and fun that you will not believe it.

Original idea and concept: AK Interactive Art direction: AK Interactive BMS English text: Abilio Piñeiro Graphic design: BMS Designs AK Interactive

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© 2018 AK Interactive. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, actual or future, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.

Where it all began... I was born in Teruel, Spain, some years ago. I probably wasn't 13 years old before I held my first model in my hands. I remember it like it was yesterday. One day, after watching me build some paper cutout models, my mother showed up with a couple of Matchbox kits, a Spitfire and Mosquito in 1:72 scale, which I naively painted with bright enamel paints. That's how it all started. From then on I remember going to the "model shop" every Saturday to buy another kit. It became a ritual. My purchases alternated between aircraft and mini-dioramas, mostly Matchbox kits in 1:72 scale. Although I have worked in a wide range of subjects and continue to do so, I have come to realize that my main area of interest is land, and when I say "land", I use that word literally, because the genre that continues to attract me is the diorama. I am passionate about this little slice of reality, because it contains and unites all aspects of life: figures, vehicles, buildings, environment, climate, even air. As a genre, it envelops everything. Underlying it all is my passion for this hobby that I enjoy so much. I think my vision of modeling is simple; friends and fun. Friends, with whom you share much more than just a model or a hobby, and who recognize your effort and from whom you will always learn. Friends with whom you always have fun. Rubén González Hernández

Dedicated to who has been and will always be part of my family. Thanks for everything you gave us José. Goodbye, Rasito!

This publication is intended to cover a wide range of topics; the how, when, and why, that every modeler who has ever sought to build a vignette or diorama, simple or complex, has at some point contemplated. Vignettes or dioramas sound simple, but in reality we are talking about a complex and delicate discipline that is a compendium of other disciplines which require mastery to give satisfying results. But to begin we must know exactly what a diorama is. In terms of modeling one could say that a diorama or vignette is a kind of model which shows a vehicle, figure, buildings or structures in a given environment. From this point of view, even a simple vignette could be considered a small diorama. This may be a tough concept to grasp, but throughout this publication you will notice that we don't place an emphasis on size, even if it is critical to the piece itself.

hicles, buildings and terrain, all arranged to form a cohesive scene. It may sound easy but in truth it is an elusive goal which we all dream of, but which few manage to achieve. If we attend many shows and contests, we can easily see that a well executed "atmospheric diorama" (as they are called here locally) is a rare thing, but a thing that we know immediately when we see one. When you approach it you can almost breathe the atmosphere it creates! Even though we can sculpt our own figures and build our vehicles starting completely from scratch, the most creative parts of any diorama or vignette are both its terrain and its structures and buildings. Those are the areas where we can exercise the most creativity. There are many commercial kits of figures, vehicles, buildings, vegetation and accessories to populate our dioramas, and even terrain bases that include various bits of detail and accessories, but it is only on a base that we create ourselves that we can really integrate the parts of the whole.

Now that we have introduced the definition of a diorama or vignette, we can see that what we are really talking about is a variety of various disciplines. To carry out this kind of work, we must, more or less, master the techniques for assembling and painting figures, animals, vehicles of all types and materials, buildings and structures of various types, shapes, sizes, all deliberately placed in terrain and set in various climatic conditions.

Finally we achieve the ultimate culmination of modeling (in my humble opinion) from the cohesive merging together of all of the different elements of atmosphere, accuracy, and effect, making sure that everything fits and is integrated completely.

Next, we arrive at the topic of staging and composition. The basic concept of the piece is the atmosphere that arises from the arrangement of all of the various elements, figures, ve-

I hope I have sparked your interest in dioramas, an interest that I share with my all of friends who have helped me to write this Book. To all of you, and to all of them, thank you.

8 I. WATER

10 10 24 55 70 70 92 100 108

• Flowing water CREEK Curso con cascada • Ponds and lakes • Snow Snow, water and ice snow and mud • Ice PLATES • Beach with waves

114 II. SPECIAL EFFECTS 115 118 118 122 126

• Road sinkhole • Puddles SHALLOW PUDDLES OVER GROUND MUDDY ROAD WITH WATER • Cracked and humid channel

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This book or appendix is ​​intended to be a clear complement to the previous FAQ Dioramas publication. In this second part dedicated to the preparation of our scenes and grounds we will see, perhaps, the most important and one of the issues that brings the most headaches to modelers, such as the treatment of water, snow or ice, together to a whole series of special effects related to water that we can include in our works. Throughout its pages, we have tried, simply and with easy methods available to everyone, to show you how to incorporate the liquid element in its various states to our dioramas or vignettes. This book brings closure to an important chapter in modeling our hobby. It helps enhance the recreation of different ground effects and settings of our models and figures.

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WATER

Flowing water Ponds and lakes Snow

Imitating water on a scene is not a simple task. In any of its possible forms, either in liquid form in the form of ice or even snow, will require an extra effort as it will involve research and trying a multitude of materials and different application forms. Its representation is not easy. We will need both time and skill. Before tackling this task, it is convenient to encourage yourself. One of the recommendations that I always make is to set myself and try to imitate the work that others have already made with fantastic results. This is an effort that many modelers do not consider but that sometimes is the only alternative to make our work more convincing and show what you want to represent.

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Ice plates Beach with waves

ESSENTIALS There are many products in the market to imitate water in it's many forms. Here you are some of them:

VARNISHES AND MEDIUMS These are specific products used to finish or during th finishing phase due to their bright appearance once they have dried. Very useful to represent the moisture on the ground, on a vehicle or a figure. You can use it alone or in combination with other products to add color and change its final appearance. RESINS They are building products, it means that, with them we can represent from a watercourse to a stream or even the sea itself. The result is usually obtained combining two products or components (resin plus catalyst) that dries in contact with the air. Its finish is very hard and sparkly. It is not a final finish but requires treatment as, due to the way it dries, it generates surfaces completely smooth.

GELS AND SILICONES They are also finishing products that help us to represent both shallow water streams like puddles. They are the perfect complement for the resins as they allow to obtain relief and give the sensation of movement. ARTIFICIAL SNOW There are many products to imitate the snow, all of them in powder form. They can be combined with some products from type gel, varnishes or even with white glue allowing to obtain different finishes. In combination with enamels and / or acrylics we will add some color, expanding the range of finishes.

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WATER FLOWING WATER

CREEK

We are going to create a simple scene to depict flowing water along a river. The ground will have two diferent heights. The upper one is dry soil and the other the river water. We will use a branch/tree to add more height to the scene. The roots are made of two part putty. An oval base made of foam, and covered with Das Pronto, is more than enough to made this simple scene. The edges are covered with plaster. This is very useful to seal the external perimeter of the base using tape prior pouring the water mix. The bottom of the river has some texture made with sand and small pebbles glued with white glue and water.

The main elements of the scene are the water as well as an old rusted and abandoned Sherman turret. Try to place the turret when the ground it's still wet.

The we will start to build the tree. Here you have the basic elements used.

Once all the main elements are in place we can sand the external surface of the base with the help of a sanding stick.

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First we will drill a hole in the tree, where the branch is supossed to be inserted. Try to drill with an angle. Try to make a hole of the same diameter of the branches, specially if they are small, as it will be easier to glue them. If the branches are larger we can insert a piece of metal rod into the branch.

The selected branches will be carefully glued using Cyanoacrylate glue, from bottom to top.

We will proceed the same way with the roots. Try to use real roots as the look is different as the branches.

The tree is taking shape little by little.

We must add roots of different sizes to add a natural look to the tree.

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Then we can apply a layer of two part putty to fill in the gaps between the roots and the ground.

Finally we can apply a layer of plaster on the edges. It's very important to achieve a smooth and hard surface as we have to fix the tape and fill in with the resin. We have to avoid any leakage.

The tree trunk is painted in brown acrylic tones using the wet technique.

We can finally apply a wash using AK263 Dark Brown wash to add more depth.

The groundwork is painted using AK022 and AK080 again with the wet technique.

The stones and rocks were painted in sand and grey tones.

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Some parts were airbrushed with a dark shade, AK024 Dark Streaking Grime and White Spirit.

The base was covered with crushed foam. First we apply a mix of white glue and water...

...and then we sprinkle crushed foam.

The interior of the turret was covered with sea ball, then was washed with AK026 and AK027 Slimy Grime.

We repeat the process over the tree roots using AK027, the lighter tone.

Cyanoacrylate glue was used to fix the moss...

...sprinkling some moss when still wet.

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The base it's half way the end.

We apply again a Dark Wash with AK045 to add the depth lost duirng the previous steps.

Time to add the tall grass of the bottom. We bend the grass to add the sense of movement under the water.

Once the turret is fixed we can add the tall grass and branches using a needle to drill the base and white glue.

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We will glue each bundle into the ground using white glue.

We add more sea ball and tall grass in the empty spaces.

We use the enamel washes to add colour to the grass and bundles. You can also paint them before glueing.

We add some different plants and leaves.

Painting them with vivid acrylic colours using the wet technique.

The plants are all glued following the same direction.

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The ground is ready and you can feel the sense of movement even without water.

We will focus for a while in the ground outside the water, adding some more leaves and artificial plants secured with white glue.

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More plants were added around the trunk, Creeper plant.

The work with the vegetation is finished, in and outside the water.

We decided to paint and add a couple of fish, adding dinamism.

We inserted a clear rod into each fish so you will not notice it once we pour the water. It's important to place them in a logical place.

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The edges are covered with thin acetate film.

Double side tape and Blu-tack is used to seal the previous work.

We used two components transparent still water, AK8043, following the proportions indicated by the brand, in 2-4mm layers to avoid the bubbles.

We can dye each layer with enamel green tones. We have to dye the component 1, stiring to remove the bubbles.

Then we can add the amount of component 2, stiring well and removing the bubbles.

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Pour the mix carefully.

Working in thin layers to avoid the bubbles.

The external side of the base was covered with plywood slats, painted with a mix of green acrylic paint and 10% of AK236 Washable Agent.

The last layer is almost transparent. Once dry we can remove the acetate film.

Once is completelly dry we can remove the paint with a stiff brush moistened in water.

We prepare a small amount of AK8002 Water Gel thinned with water.

Covering the whole surface of the water.

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Now you can softly touch the surface with a soft brush to achieve an uneven look. Try to avoid the bubbles.

Once dry you can see the overall look and the initial sense of movement.

The water foam around the turret is done with a mix of AK8002 Gel, AK8007 Gel Effects and a small amount of AK8010 Snow Microballoons. Use a fine and soft brush.

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We blend the foam with the water.

Using a toothpick we can add more texture.

We can also add a mix of Gel and white acrylic paint to intensify the effect.

Finally we apply a layer of transparent gel diluted with water to enhance the brightness of the foam.

Overall look of the water finished. Very realistic.

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Good fishing Verlinden – Mantis 1:35

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WATER FLOWING WATER

WATERCOURSE WITH WATERFALL Moving forward with the water we are going to make a small waterfall in a stream of channeled water. We will represent a ditch with a gate and a water run course that meets a small jump. While the representation of water is not complicated, it's more difficult to represent its movement. On this occasion, we will show you not only how to do the movement but also it's fall and the foam that it generates. As we will see, the order to perform the different elements and effects is of utmost importance.

Foam is the main element to build our scene. We have to be meticulous with the measurements and the cut.

The sanding of the pieces is as important as the cutting. It's advisable to use a good sandpaper with the accurate grain. Foam is a very delicate material.

Our puzzle is made of different types of foam.

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We check the fitting and main volumes of the scene.

White glue is perfect to fix the foam. Better if you use a fast drying one.

Press the pieces of foam and then let it dry for a few hours.

If we need to improve the resistance of the pieces we can use a simple tip. First apply a layer of white glue in one side.

Keep pressing the pieces together.

Use half pieces of toohpicks as spikes inserting them into the pieces of foam. This will help to strengthen the set.

The ground is taking shape.

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We will add a small corner of a building engraved over a piece of plaster. It was painted with acrylics and weathered with enamels. The roof is made of cardboard tiles.

Overall look of the main elements and the building.

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MAKING A WALL

We are going to add a small reinforced wall made of bricks using cork shhet.

We add the previous cut bricks with contact glue. It's advisable to check how the contact glue affects the foam.

The wall placed on the ground.

Once we have checked the wall we can damage the surface with a scourer pad.

Then we have to apply a layer of plaster or AK104 Grey filler as we can dilute it with water.

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The bricks are painted with brown and orange acrylic tones diluted with water.

Then we can glue it over the foam and carry on our job.

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Use white glue to fix the brick wall.

We go over the weathering process. Using Abt035 Buff, 092 Ocher, 080 Brown Wash, 090 Industrial Earth, 015 Shadow Brown and 225 Midnight Blue we will achieve an intersting look.

Deposit the oils straight from the piece of cardboard...

...and blend them over the surface with mixing them completely. Use White Spirit.

The wall finished.

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CONSTRUCTION OF A DOOR

Even if we only need a piece of door, it must be built and painted the same as it would be with a complete door. For its construction, various types of wooden slats and plastic rod for the hinges were used. Once finished received a coat of AK084 Engine Oil so that it is dyed of dark wood.

Once the wash is dry we apply a layer of AK088 Worn Effects and another of RC004 Flat White, removing the layer of paint with water. The green moss is simulated with AK026 Dark Slimy Grime and AK027 Light Slimy Grime diluted with White Spirit.

The use of the previous enamels help to achieve interesting effects of wet around the lower part...

And also around the roof and slats.

Overall look of the small building finished.

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CONSTRUCTION OF A IRRIGATION DITCH

It's advisable not to glue the ditch to handle it properly and reach all the places. AK8014 Concrete paste is then applied with the help of a putty knife or spatula.

This filler is really smooth and with a porous finish.

Then we use white glue and wood sticks to fix it permanently.

It's really important to seal the gaps to avoid any leakage.

One of the advantages of this paste used to imitate cement is that it does not require a base color so we can directly start with the setting process. In this case we use dark oils in the corners and recesses with the same oil palette used in the low wall.

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We also used brown oils over the edges and centre.

Oils are extremely polyvalent and can be used to simulate moss and lichen in the walls. Abt.010 Yellow, 020 Faded Dark Yellow and 092 Ocher are used.

Place the oils directly and blend them with a dry brush. Use good visual references.

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FLOODGATE We used rods, plastic sheets and profiles as well as some bolts and a wheel.

The axle is made rolling wire around a plastic rod and covering the set with Cyanoacrylate glue.

We finally add some bolts.

The gate is finished but we don't know yet the position of the opening.

Airbrush a layer of RC068 Red Brown both over the frame and the gate.

The rust stains are made with acrylic paints splashed over the surface.

We also added rust streaking grime.

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Apply a coat of AK088 Worn Effects

The base color is a mix of RC002 Cream White and RC006 Red to achieve a faded pink look due the sun exposure.

Once the paint is dry we can remove it with a brush moistened in water. Use a needle to add scratches and lines.

We can add streaking grime using oils...

...combined with lighter tones depicting rainmarks and dirt.

The gate is fixed with white glue.

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The gate was sealed all around with white glue to avoid leakages of water.

VEGETATION OF THE DITCH

The moss of the bottom of the ditch is made with a mix of green foam, white glue and water in equals parts. First we apply the layer of glue and water with a brush...

..and then we sprinkle the crushed foam.

The best way to add some color to the crushed foam is to apply several washes with AK045 Wash Brown.

And then apply a further wash in the centre with AK026 Dark Slimy Grime when still wet.

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Highlights are applied in the centre using AK027 Light Slimy Grime, blending with the rest of the tones.

Yellow oil paint is also very helpful to add more brightness.

Once dry we can check if the work is right or on the other hand we need to correct it.

AK025 Fuel Stain is added in the corners to add more depth.

The result is a nice layer of moss over the walls.

AK079 Wet Effects is also applied.

We can now fix the gate with white glue...

...sprinkling more dyed foam. Once dry we can apply a few filters to unify with the rest of the piece.

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WATER STREAM

We used two component resin, AK8043 dyed with green and sand colors. The color can vary depending on our liking and references.

We pour a small amount of the components in a plastic glass. Add 4ml resin and 2ml hardener.

Then we can mix and add a drop of the acrylic color chosen. Pour it little by little and check the tone.

It's highly advisable to mix it very well and thoroughly. The bubbles will reach the surface of the liquid disappearing little by little. It's important to check if the bubbles disappear and remove them, but usually that never happens.

Add masking tape to the edge of the ditch and pour the mix, carefully.

Leave it to dry during a day. After that time we can continue with the rest of the processes.

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WATERFALL

We used a piece of plastic film (used to wrap food) to achieve the waterfall.

Extend the piece of plastic over a smooth surface, using masking tape to secure the plastic. Add some creases with the help of the fingers.

Apply a few layers of AK8002 Transparent Gel following the direction of the water. This gel is thick so we can achieve some kind of depth.

Let it dry and repeat the process 3 or 4 times to achieve more depth.

The plastic sheet can be easily bent even with a few layers of gel applied. The effect is very realistic.

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We have to be carefull when cutting the plastic sheet as a waterfall is wider in the top than in the bottom. We can roll and bend the upper area.

Apply white glue to the upper part of the waterfall to keep the bend in place.

Apply a light wash with the same green tones used to dye the resin.

Cut the waterfall into shape with a scissors.

The result once washed and cut.

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WATER FOAM

The water foam is done with cotton, giving shape with a tweezers, hollowing the fibers.

Place a thin layer of cotton over the bottom avoiding wrinkles.

Add different transparent effects with AK8002 Transparent Gel, randomly and with various depths.

Try to check your references and copy the effects.

Once the first layer of foam is dry we can glue the plastic sheet (waterfall).

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The moss over the step is also covered with foam. First apply the transparent gel...

...adding some cotton over it...

...and the other end of the upper stream, moistening the surface with transparent gel.

We also applied a second layer of cotton over the lower part of the stream. Use a brush to add more depth and sense of movement.

Place the plastic sheet when still wet, checking the position.

The joint between the waterfall and the water stream is covered with another layer of cotton.

Finally we can apply a thin layer of gel to improve the glossy look and unify the work done.

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UPPER WATER STREAM

We mix in a plastic recipient 6ml of resin and 3ml hardener and once mixed we pour 4mm over the surface.

We apply a thin layer of resin over the foam and waterfall.

We remiove the masking tape checking any possible leakage. Everything is perfect. The look is quite realistic but with lack of movement.

Use a sponge to apply the transparent gel over the upper water stream.

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Use a flat brush to extend the gel and simulate the movement of the waters course.

Repeat the process with the sponge over the rest of the water. Bubbles can be removed with a round brush but smaller ones can be a realistic touch.

Here you can se the differebce between the movement of the water in the upper are and the lower one. In this area the movement is more abrupt,

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To finish the water we are going to add some foam in the edges of the channel. We mix the gel for effects AK8007 with a hint of white acrylic. We apply the mix using the tip of a stick in some water edge areas

Here you can see the work done with the pick over the gel.

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The water gel dyed with white paint is applied over the edges to simulate the foam.

Once dry, the water is finished.

GROUND WORK

Once the water is finished it's time to continue with the ground. First we glue the building.

Chopsticks are very useful to secure in place. A soft pressure is more than enough. Leave it to dry.

We used a mix of AK8018 Dark Earth and AK8027 Splatter Dry Mud. The result is an intermediate brown.

We added a small amount of plaster to the mix to increase the thickness.

Stir well before applying.

Use a spatula to apply the mix.

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...use a brush to extend the mix and reach the edges without soiling the walls.

...and then the larger stones.

As this type of paste is already colored we just have to apply some washes with AK4062 Light Dust and AK4063 Brown Earth.

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Add the gravel when still wet...

After a few minutes we can press the surface with a sponge.

Use White Spirit to blend the tones, first the dark color over the perimeter and the lighter one over the rest.

The paste is quite matt so we can also use it over the stone structure.

We can use AK023 Dark Mud wash to add more depth and contrast.

The larger stones are painted with grey tones.

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VEGETATION We added the base vegetation first followed by the tall one. Short grass was glued over a layer of white glue diluted in water, around 50%. Avoid covering the large stones.

Sprinkle the grass over the white glue, blowing after a few minutes.

Then we can continue with the rest of the plants, short and tall. Posidonia plant glued with white glue is used for the bushes.

Apply some washes with AK026 Dark Slimy Grime and AK024 Dark Streaking Grime.

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6 different types of plants were used to achieve a realistic look and diversity.

Laser cut plants are very singular but need a lot of work.

It's advisable to paint the leaves while they are still attached to the carrier.

Then we can glue the leaves and flowers together with the help of a twezeers.

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Apply a wash with AK300 Dark Yellow and add AK079 Wet effects. The look is quite realistic.

Sometimes we need to touch up and repaint some areas.

They provide some color variation and interest to the scene.

We need crushed foam, Cyanoacrylate glue and a spatula or similar tool.

First apply a drop of Cyanoacrylate over the surface.

Sprinkle the foam over the Cyanoacrylate trying to cover the glue completely.

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Gently press the foam with the fingers and let it dry. Blow over the surface to remove the unglued foam.

We can also apply some bright colors with acrylic lime paint or similar.

Once the actrylic paint is dry we can proceed with the washes. A mix of enamels and gloss varnish add the final touch.

The roof is finished.

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WATER

PONDS AND LAKES

We are going to show you how to make a small scene with slow water flowing trough a piece of ground similar to a small lake or a pond. We will add two levels, one with the vegetation and the other with the water. A piece of foam and a modelling knife is enough to give shape to the base.

Two half-bodies of figures are glued on the foam. The position of the figures and the small concentric waves are clue to add the sense of movement.

The dry area of the scene is covered with a mix of AK8018 Dark Earth and AK8030 Stirred Earth, obtaining a dark paste.

We mix 50% of each reference...

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...aplying the paste with a brush covering the shore.

The edges of the scene are made of plastic sheet or a similar material while the paste is drying.

Then we can use double side tape and white glue to fix it over the foam.

The external edges are covered with Cyanoacrylate glue and then sanded.

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We cover the plastic edges with masking tape, airbrushing a layer of dark brown.

The vegetation is made with sea balls, using a fine modelling tweezers.

We cut the base of the bristles.

Then we can glue the whole shore with white glue avoiding leaving hole.

The look is very realistic with its characteristic and uneven shape.

It's easy to paint the vegetation with green acrylic paints using the wet technique.

Once dry we can add a dark wash with AK300.

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It's important to also add some levels to the vegetation. Passion Models has a lot of interesting products such as these canes, usually found around the lakes and ponds.

We glue the canes one by one. The shore is being brought to life.

Light green acrylic tones are used to paint the canes.

We also added some Joefix references in the intermediate level-

We apply a wash using AK4063 Dust&Dirt Deposits over the shore.

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AK079 Wet Effects is applied over some JS Works laser cut jungle plants.

The shore is finished.

We can add some depth painting the bottom with AK045 DarK Brown and AK026 Green.

The scene is ready to be filled with water.

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Then we have to add the hardener and stir carefully to avoid the bubbles.

The water used is again AK8043 two components resin, dyed with green and brown acrylic paints.

Pour the mix carefully, again to avoid the bubbles.

Leave to dry 24 hours between layers. The last layer is almost transparent.

The water lily are made with a punch&die tool and a piece of green cardboard or a piece of paper painted with different shades of green. We make a cut in each leave.

We use the handle of a brush to gently press each leave against a soft surface. Achieving the correct shape.

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We also add some touch-ups with a brush and green tones.

The last and upper layer is clear.

With the resin still wet it's easy to glue the leaves and vegetation, first the small leaves closer to the shore.

Then we add the water lily and rest of the plants.

AK079 Wet Effects is applied over the leaves.

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The shore and vegetation completely finished.

The old Verlinden references are painted with AK3200 set from Vietnam era.

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We drill a hole and insert a metal rod in each figure and the water.

Once all the elements are placed on the scene it's time to add the water and transparent gel to achieve the sense of movement.

We make a mix with AK8002 Transparent Gel and a 10% of water.

The surroundings of the first figure is covered with the mix, around 2ms.

Using a fine brush we add the concentric waves. We have to work fast as the mix dries around 10-15 minutes.

We repeat the process in the second figure. Do not worry if the waves overlap one each other as it hapens in the real nature.

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It's easy to add the water foam around the figures and the shore with a mix of Transparent Gel and AK8010 Snow Microballoons.

Use a fine brush.

And blend it with a brush moistened in water.

Use a toothpick to add more depth.

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Repeat the process in the shore.

A second layer of Transparent Gel is applied to add more brightness and seal the work.

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WetNam

Verlinden 1:35

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WATER snow

SNOW, WATER AND ICE Water can also appear in the form of ice or snow due to low temperatures. To represent it in the three states we will make a small winter diorama. On the scene we will place a vehicle with winter camouflage that advances on a path completely muddy surpassing the defeated troops and captured troops along the side of the scene on snow and ice. Also on the same side we will represent a small stream with icy and crystalline waters running smoothly downhill. On the opposite side a small rise on the road houses the scarce vegetation surviving the intense cold, completely covered of snow and a couple of trees practically depopulated of leaves.

Once we have the desired dimensions it's time to place the elements and check the composition.

We choose to place the elements in a diagonal line, painting the position of the vehicle and the figures with a red marker. A sharp knife is used to carve the place of the main elememts such as the tracks.

The surface was smoothed with the help of a metallic brush.

We use a modelling blade to finish and detail the surface of the scene, removing some foam rests.

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It's advisable to apply a layer of any available acrylic putty over the foam surface. AK8023, Neutral Texture is applied over the river with the help of a brush. This plaster helps to seal the foam and to add texture under the further layer of water and ice.

AK1032 acrylic white putty is used to cover the surface. This type of acrylic putty does not atack the foam. The white putty is harder than the grey one. Small stones were placed over the wet paste, pressing gently with the fingers.

The small stone are permanently glued with a mix of white glue and water.

The bottom of the river was painted with acrylic paints using the wet technique. We mix some ocher and brown tones, adding some shadows with a cold tone, a medium blue.

The upper edge of the shore is painted with pure white, but with the wet technique it blends and lost part of its intensity.

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The pebbles are individually painted with acrylics.

The moss is done with a few layers of AK026 and AK027 Slimy Grime was.

Some places are smoothed with a brush moistened in water when the paste is still wet, like the holes for the puddles,

Let the paste dry during 15 minutes and use a piece of sponge to add more texture. The paste is ready when you check that it's not sticky and doesn't adhere to the sponge.

Once dry the surface will look shiny but so regular and even. We can add more contrast blending wet acrylics over the edges of the sinkholes of the puddles.

We can add more depth appyling a wash of AK078, with a satin finish, and AK066 Dark Wash on the river.

The moss is done with a few layers of AK026 and AK027 Slimy Grime was.

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We blend the tones with White Spirit. The areas that will be without snow are covered with a layer of dry leaves, glued with a coat of AK118 Gravel&Sand Fixer.

We will add a couple of small trees in that rear area to add more height.

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HOW TO MAKE THE BIRCHES The tree trunks are made of natural plants and Joefix vegetation. We will need a modelling knife and a manual drill.

First we cut the naked branch to simulate the trunks of the birches. We will drill some holes starting from top to bottom, and with the drill in an angle.

We used real reference pictures to glue the branches using Cyanoacrylate glue.

Then we can check the work to see if we have to make any small touch up or modification. We will place the trees in the desired position to see how they look, helping to see the scene composition.

We used grey and white acrylic paints, adding brown for the shadows using the wet technique and water.

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The characteristic stains and spots of these trees are imitated with a mix of black, brown and grey acrylics.

We add some shadows on the trunk base, randomly.

Then with the same diluted mix we add thin cross lines along the trunk.

The small sections of crust are painted with white. A grey filter is applied blending with White Spirit.

A second green filter is applied over the base to imitate the moss and the humidity. The base of the trunk is finished.

Some laser cut Kamizukuri leaves painted in ocher tones are glued with ciano.

Appyling a AK076 brown filter over the leaves.

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You do not need to add too many leaves to depict an Autumn tree. We will fix the trees with white glue.

The trees glued in place.

Then we glue some Posidonia over the leaves.

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We finally added a AK066 Brown wash to finish this part of the scene.

HOW TO MAKE WATER First we have to fix some modelling masking tape around the edges. We pour the desired amount of resin (component 1) dyed with brown and green enamel paints.

Then we add the hardener (component 2), stirring well to remove the bubbles.

Pour the mix over the riverbed. Try to add layer around 4-5mm thick.

After 24 hours the mix is dry and we can add the water foam with AK8002 Water Gel Transparent uisng a brush.

The gel is thick so we can work it perfectly with a angle brush. The mix keeps the shape.

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Applying diagonal and irregular movements with the diagonal brush we can easily obtain the sense of movement of the water.

We make a mix with a 50% ratio of AK8007 Water Gel Effects and AK8010 Snow Microballons to depict the water foam around some pebbles.

The mix is dry in around 30 minutes. The crests are done with a toothpick.

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Once dry the gel is absolutely transparent so we can apply more layers if needed.

It's better to use a tooth pick to apply the mix over one side of the pebbles.

AK8002 is then applied to add brightness to the water foam.

MAKING HARD SNOW

The first layer of snow applied over the scene will be the hard snow type. We prepare a mix of AK8009 Snow Sprinkles and AK8010 Snow Microballoons in equal parts.

We add a few drops of AK8008 Still Water.

The sides of the road and close to the vegetation are covered with this mix.

The hard snow is usually caked so we can blend the edges and some areas with Still Water.

Overall look of the first layer of snow.

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MAKING SOFT SNOW

We will use Ak8011 Snow to depict the fresh and foamy layer of snow fallen over the previous layer. We have to be sure that the previous layer is fully dry. We use a soft and round brush working in small sections of 2-3cms, adding a thick coat.

Still Water is used to blend and soften the edges.

Then we finally add a layer of AK8010 Snow Microballoons to achieve the final foamy look.

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Overall look of the soft snow.

FROSTED VEGETATION

We can represent the thin layer of ice and frost over the vegetation easily, in just two steps. The first step is to cover, partially, the top of the vegetation with the same mix used to make the hard snow.

In the second step we will cover with a layer of Still Water the same area covered with the hard snow, adding brightness and more bulk.

Overall look of the frosted vegetation.

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MAKING THE ICE IN THE RIVER

The ice plates that usually appears close to a river shore due the low temperatures can easily be made using a mix of Still Water and glass microballoons. We will place a piece of plastic sheet, the one used to preserve the food, keeping the surface uptight. Pour a small amount of Still Water.

Pour some glass microballoons when the Still Water is still fresh.

Use a spatula to gently press the mix, expanding the mix a little bit. This step helps to achieve the uneven surface of the ice plates.

Once dry we can remove the sheets from the plastic film, using the ones we prefer. You can use your fingers and scissors to cut into shape.

Apply a layer of white glue over the flat side...

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...and place it in the desired area to achieve the first layer of ice.

The ice looks like the real one made of different layers.

Then, we can apply a layer of Still Water blending the previous snow.

The next layer of ice is submerged in Still Water and placed over the previous layer.

The holes and gaps between the ice plates and the shore are covered with AK8009 Snow Sprinkles and a soft brush.

Finally, the fresh snow close to the rocks are made pouring Snow Microballoons over the wet Still Water.

Using different medioums we obtained a very rich look over the ice.

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MAKING THE PUDDLES

The wet ground and the puddles are made with a mix of Still Water and brown and ocher acrylic paints. The tones will depend on the idea we bear in mind- We use a soft brush to apply the dyed Still Water, mainly on the cloven areas of the road.

The we have to blend the mix with the surface trying to drag the mix outside the edges of the puddles. When a vehicle passes over a puddle in a wet ground the water tends to soak the surroundings.

We have to work in layers little by little, to achieve the correct look avoiding to make a very wet or uniform ground.

The look is very realistic and easy to do.

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FOOTPRINTS AND MARKS OVER THE SNOW

We have to integrate the figures with the ground so it's a nice idea to add traces of snow over the boots and clothes. A mix of AK8008 Still Water, AK8009 Snow Sprinkles and AK8010 Snow Microballoons is a good match.

We can use an old boot or a modelling resin aftetmarket to add the footprints. We have to wait until the mix is half dry, trying from time to time and the footprint become clear.

The path where the figures walk are covered with snow, so first we place the figures adding a metallic rod to the surface. This type of trampled snow can be done with AK8009 Snow Sprinkles as it has a greyish tone and looks like hard snow. We apply a small amount of this product in the edges and sides of the path: We have to wait to go ahead with the next step.

It's better to apply the mix with a toothpick, adding some brightness with Still Water, Gloss Varnish or Wet Effects.

Finally, add a pin wash with a mix of Still Water and brown acrylics to depict the dirt inside the footprints.

We can also add a drop of Still Water inside the footprints if they do not look glossy.

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TRACES OF THE VEHICLES OVER THE SNOW

The traces of the vehicles can be easily done with AK8009 Snow Spinkles applied over the surface and adding grooves with a soft brush in the direction of the movement.

Try to add more snow between the grooves repeating the process until you are satisfied.

Finally, we can add some dirt in the grooves, the same way as we did with the footprints,

We can also add a layer of Still Water diluted with water to increase the gloss look.

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Snowscape Tamiya – Dragon - Miniart 1:35

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WATER SNOW

SNOW AND MUD We are going to depict a dirty road that was covered with snow and now it's melting but still has remains of dirty snow. We will use a piece of 10x8.5cms

Draw a line over the piece of foam to depict a slope and the road. The upper part will be covered with snow while the rest will be wet and with the tread of the vehicles over the snow.

Use a modeling knife to carefully cut and carve the foam.

Once the basic slope is ready we can use a metallic brush to add more texture.

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We can also use a wegde of foam to add more height. Use white glue to fix it. Then use a modeling knife and a piece of sandpaper to finish the basic volumes.

The base is ready to receive a layer of AK8016 Wet Ground. Use a hard bristle brush.

We lay the paste along the road trying to create a 3-4mm thick layer.

The upper part is just "painted" with the paste as it will be covered with snow. We can now apply a second layer over the road, softening with water.

See the difference between the two textures.

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HARD SNOW

Once the base is dry we can apply the snow in several steps. We need to depict two types of snow, hard on the road and soft on the slope. The hard snow is made with AK8008 Still Water, AK8009 Snow Sprinkles and AK8011 Snow Microballoons.

Use a metallic well to deposit Snow Sprinkles, adding Snow Microballoons to achieve the white look of the snow. Also add a few drops of Still Water.

Apply the mix over the side of the road trying not to cover the treads of the vehicles. Also cover the slope with a thin layer.

Use a brush moistened in Still Water to blend the egdes of the snow. This will help to achieve the characteristic look of the melted snow.

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SOFT SNOW

Once the previous layer is dry and covered with hard and melted snow we can continue with the process. The goal it's to add more depth and texture.

We will try to imitate the freshly fallen snow using AK8011 Snow and AK8010 Snow Microballoons. We will cover the surface completely with the paste without worrying about the relief.

Blend the edges with a brush moistened in water.

Finally sprinkle Snow Miocroballoons over the wet surface. The microballoons will adhere. Repeat the process over small areas on the road achieving an uneven and natural look of snow.

Here you can see the look of the soft snow.

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DIRTY SNOW

First we touch up the edges of the snow with AK777 and Snow Microballoons.

Use a metallic well to mix both products until obtaining a light texture.

Apply this mix on the edges of the snow and the road, blending with water.

This mix helps to add the glossy look of the melted snow.

We can use acrylics to add the dirt over the tread of the vehicles. AK702 Light Brown, AK132 Dark Olive and AK777 Gloss Varnish.

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We can use a metallic palette or a pill box. Mix the acrylics and apply pin washes on the edges. The effect must be soft so first check it outside the ground.

Use a flat brush and a toothpick to splash the surface.

Add more gloss varnish to the mix and apply it over the edges of the areas covered with snow.

We decided to add some milestones bars and a protective mesh.

Use a manual drill to perforate the surface and white glue.

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We just need to drill a hole in the base with a needle.

These accessories were also integrated with the rest of the ground with a mix of gloss varnish and microballoons.

This step is always important in all the elements included in the scene.

We can also use this mix to touch up some areas of the ground.

The sides of the foam base are painted in black, very carefully.

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WATER

ICE PLATES

Water can also be found frosted as ice. We are going to show you how to make a simple base, a surface covered with ice, a lake, a river or the sea. We will use a piece of foam with 10x8,5 cms dimensions and using AK8012 two components resin.

Basic materials. Foam, hard cardboard, a modelling blade and a metallic ruler.

First we have to make a suitable box to pour the resin inside and obtain the ice plate. ...trying to fit perfectly.

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We cut a piece of hard cardboard of the same dimensions as the foam... Our box and mould is ready to be built.

The sides are glued with gel Cyanoacrylate glue,

We have the box almost ready

The gaps are filled with ABT115 Masking Fluid and a toothpick, avoiding any further spillage of the resin.

We have to mix the desired amount following the manufacturer instructions. 4 resin part and 1 hardener part, stirring well to eliminate the bubbles.

Pour the mix into the box, in an uniform layer of 3-4 mm thick.

Stir the mix into the box and let it dry during 24 hours.

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Once the resin is dry we can unmold with care.

A sanding disc and a mini drill is used to polish the edges and the surface. It's advisable to use polishing compound paste.

Then we have to airbrush several blue and white tones over a piece of plastic, adding the colour and depth.

We can fix a layer of adhesive plastic film in one side to avoid that the small pieces of resin can fall once we break the piece.

Then we can use our fingers to carefully break the resin into pieces. We can use different pieces in our project.

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The ice plate is broken and ready to be placed.

We will use white glue dissolved in water to fix the pieces over the painted surface.

Use a toothpick to apply the white glue in each piece of ice, glueying like a puzzle.

Let the white glue dry. Be carefull. Some of the pieces can have sharp edges.

The look of the ice is subtly modified with a wash of AK2078 White Panelier. Use it straight from the jar, blending over the surface with ABT111 thinner, specially over the cracks.

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Once dry we can glue two small pieces of white foam in the corners. They will be covered with snow. Use white glue to fix the foam.

The snow is a mix of AK8011 Snow (soft snow) and AK8009 Snow Sprinkles (hard snow) in equal parts.

We will cover the foam with the mix. Do not worry about the look.

Then with a mix of white glue and water (50%) we can soften the edges of the snow.

Finally the snow powder is made pouring AK8010 Snow Microballons over the previous layer when is still wet. We can add water to blend the edges.

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water

BEACH WITH WAVES It's easy to depict a beach with white sand, but if we want to add the sea and the waves we have to increase our efforts and chose the correct materials and good viasual references.

The first step it’s to cut a piece of foam of 10x8.5cms. Then, using a marker, we paint the surface covered with water, carving this area with a modelling blade, adding a light slope. The area was sanded with a 400 grain sanding sponge.

Then we can cover the surface with AK8019 Beach Sand. The paste is applied with a brush and a modelling spatula trying to obtain an homogeneous layer with the same thickness.

Then with a brush moistened in water we can add the grooves and marks of the water and waves over the sand. We can add some pebbles when still wet.

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Using a wet brush we can blend the edges, achieving a smooth and even layer.

Overall look of the beach with the small pebbles added.

The wet area is done painting the sand with ocher and brown acrylic tones using the wet technique. The highlights are done with white. We have to start with the darker tones, adding more white to the mix as we are painting the upper areas where it's less wet. The groundwork has to be wet to use this technique and blend the tones.

Once dry we can see the color differences and transitions.

We are going to use AK8008 Still Water to add the effect of sand bathed by the sea…

…using a brush to stretch it like a varnish.

Let it dry and cover the edges with masking tape.

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Be sure that the masking tape is fully glued with no gaps. A good sanding is really important.

AK8043 two part resin is used following the mafuacturer’s instructions. 2:1 ratio.

Dye the mix with AK4004 blue, AK RLM82 green and white acrylics. It’s important to make several mixes until you obtain the desired tone, a turquoise green. Apply it in several thin layers.

Use a small painting well, adding the resin little by little.

Use a small painting well, adding the resin little by little.

The further layer is more transparent and has to cover a smaller surface to obtain the depth.

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Use a toothpick and store the base into a box or a cabinet to avoid the dust particles.

The last layer is even more transparent, covering a much more smaller surface. Try to avoid any spillage in the edges. Let it dry at least during 24 hours

AK8002 Water Gel Transparent is used to make the waves effect. Apply the first layer with the help of a brush over the remote waves from the shore. Then apply a second layer close to the shore. Use the brush to add some relief.

Blend the rear part of the wave while the front part is still drying. Use water to blend the effect and a brush to imitate the seafoam.

After 10-15 minutes we use the airbrush to blow air at low pressure from the rear, obtaining the edges of the waves. Do it carefully as you could remove the gel.

Let it dry and remove the masking tape.

Once dry the gel becomes completely transparent and with relief. The sea foam is done with a mix of AK8007 Water Gel Effects and acrylic white paint.

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Place the white paint and the gel in paint wells separately. Then mix it adding some water.

Apply the mix over the edges using a brush.

Then using the same mix and a piece of sponge we gently press and blending the edges and crests of the waves. The idea is to cover with sea foam the wave partially. We repeat the process in each wave.

Let it dry.

…applying the mix over the rear part of the wave. Add a small amount of water to blend the sea foam and achieve the desired effect. We can also use more Gel to imitate the sea foam in the front waves.

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Once dry we have to add a layer of gel as the matt white paint tends to remove the glossy look of the waves…

Finally, we added some vegetation, glueing with white glue.

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SPECIAL EFFECTS

Road sinkhole Puddles Wet and cracked riverbed

When making a terrain base, we are often called upon to replicate a wide variety of effects that we observe in the real world, in order to give our piece the desired level of realism. These effects and details are often abandoned after an unsuccessful test, or worse, avoided before any tests or attempts have even been made out of fear of a bad result. Even when following the techniques of others with more experience and practice (in terms of hours spent) good results are not guaranteed. One useful approach is to follow a "recipe" used successfully by someone whose work you like, practicing and refining your own skills until you get results that you are happy with.

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Many of the special effects we see in dioramas and vignettes are related to water, either as liquid water, or in the form of ice and snow. This is because water is one of the most common elements in the natural world. Although their representation is neither simple nor unique, we try to imitate certain effects that can be very interesting for their simplicity. There are many products on the market to imitate water in its many forms and states. Some of them are:

SPECIAL EFFECTS ROADS SINKHOLE

SINKHOLE WITH WATER

We have to finish the groundwork before adding the water into the sinkhole. Once done we can pour the resin into the sinkhole. We used a piece of 10x8.5cm foam. We glued a sheet of cork adding a layer of AK8013 Asphalt terrains over it. A small part was removed and filled with AK8021 dry Groundwork. Some dry vegetation was also added.

The water is done with two component resin AK8043 dyed with AK3054 and AK3082 acrylic paints. We also need a small jar.

Stir well to remove the bubbles and to obtain an uniform mix. Use a small plastic glass.

We mix 2ml of resin (component 1) and 1ml hardener (component 2), as we just need a small amount. Use both syringes supplied by the manufacturer. We can use alcohol to clean the syringes.

Pour the desired amount of resin into the hole.

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It's easy to apply using a wood stick.

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Let it dry during at least 24 hours and use a neddle to remove the bubbles if necessary.

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SPECIAL EFFECTS PUDDLES

SHALLOW PUDDLES OVER GROUND

As in previous works, first we have to prepare a small groundwork adding indentations and grooves.

AK8016 paste was applied over a small piece of foam carved with a modelling blade. This paste is specially designed to depict wet and muddy grounds. We add wheel tracks with a spare wheel.

The indentations over the foam as well as the grooves made with the wheel are perfect to add small amounts of water inside.

Once dry we can add the dyed Still Water AK8008.

Dye the water with a mix of AK3075 US Filed Drab and AK3091 WWI German Uniform.

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Let it dry around 30-40 minutes and then move the wheel with your fingers over the surface.

Add a small amount of water...

Use a fine brush to apply the mix, avoiding the bubbles.

...and a few drops of Still Water.

Stretch the water outside the puddles with the same brush, obtaining a realistic and natural look of a wet and muddy road. You can use water to blend the edges.

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SPECIAL EFFECTS PUDDLES

MUDDY ROAD WITH WATER As in previous sections, the first part of the work will consist of making the ground and preparing it conveniently. We have used a piece of foam of 10x8.5 cm approximately. The relief was achieved making cuts with the blade trying to imitate the wheels of the vehicles.

Next with a scraper or metal brush, we can eliminate the strokes of the blade and get the desired texture. We will represent the area traveled by the vehicles on the front of the foam and on the opposite corner an area with footprints used by pedestrians. We will apply a layer of AK8017 paste to imitate the muddy ground, directly from the jar, with a brush of hard bristles extending it over the entire base. The area used by pedestrians is filled with more amount of paste to later make the footsteps. With a fine brush we will imitate the grooves left by the vehicles. We will clean the brush with water. After letting dry about 15 minutes we will touch-up the high areas of the terrain (ridges) to avoid the rounded shapes of the paste. For this we will use a cleaning pad. Next we will again touch-up the grooves with the brush to obtain more depth. To make the footsteps we will use some old boots. We must wait for until the terrain is much dryer. Do some test to check the consistency of the paste. Once the ground has completely dried, we will add the chosen accessories, in this case a small fence to divide the road, an old newspaper and some grass in the area that the footsteps appear. Finally we can give a light wash to the ground to add depth with oil Abt.005 Smoke diluted with Abt.111 Odourless Thinner.

Puddles were made with AK8028. It has a greenish look. It's developed to fill small and shallow puddles. Apply it in layers.

Use an old brush to apply this product. We can also dilute it with water as it's an acrylic based product. We will also add a small amount over the ridges trying not to cover all the surface, keeping a high contrast between dry and wet areas.

Mask the edges with masking tape.

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Leave this layer to dry and check the results, before adding the second layer.

The second layer of water is dyed with AK133 Olive Dark Base and AK724 dry Light Mud acrylics. This will help to add more contrast and the sense of dirty water.

Again use a brush to apply the product inside and over the edges of the ground, obtaining chromatic variety.

Use a needle to remove the bubbles when still wet.

The color changes as we are adding AK8028 product in a small well.

After a couple of hours the product is dry and we remove the masking tape. Sand the edges with a block of sandpaper.

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SPECIAL EFFECTS

WET AND CRACKED RIVERBED

Another effect of water on the ground is the typical cracked look that we can observe when the water dries, or disappears due to heat or evaporation. This cracked effect is easily reproducible with a new series of products for dioramas that AK just developed under the name of "Crackle effects" and in the form of paste. To get the effect we should just spread the paste and wait for it to dry. Depending on the thickness, the applied layer will be the size of a small square and looking like a very porous surface.

We are going to make a small groundwork using references AK8018 for dark terrains and AK8032 for dark and cracked ones. We can combine them or use them separately. A cracked but still wet riverbed it's a nice example of this effect. This way we can add moss over the tree trunk.

A piece of 10x8.5 cms foam was carved to reproduce the riverbed and the shore. The base will be covered with modeling paste as this stuff works better on porous surfaces,

The modeling paste is kneaded with the fingers.

Once ready we can glue it with white glue.

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Place the paste over the foam and press it gently till it covers the whole surface.

The excess is removed with a spatula.

Use white glue dissolved with water and a soft brush to smooth the paste, achieving a surface perfect for the crakle effects.

The riverbed is smoothed with the help of a spoon or similar tool, cutting the excess with the spatula.

Use a scouring pad to add more relief to the ground when still wet.

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We can combine AK8018 to add an alevation, and AK8032 on the riverbed.

The base is painted with AK125 to avoid to see the white paste through the crackle effects. Cover the whole surface with the acrylic paint.

Apply the paste just over the riverbed with a soft brush, carefully, and trying to spread an even layer.

Once the acrylic paint is dry we can apply the crackle effect AK8032.

The different thickness of the layer doesn't matter as this will help to increase the crackle effect and the result.

Once dry the paste is now a cracked surface. Then we can apply the Dark AK8018 paste over the slope and the shore.

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Spread the paste with a soft brush and water.

Note the effect achieved with the paste and how it varies from one place to another. Much more realistic.

A natural root is perfect to depict a fallen tree. We use the same modeling paste to fix it over the corner of the slope, in a diagonal line from the riverbed.

The tree is painted with acrylics using the wet technique.

Abteilung oils such as 050 Olive Green and 245 Dark Brown; and AK080 Kursk Earth and AK094 Streaking Interiors enamels thinned with Odourless or White Spirit are used to paint the ground.

We first apply the earth tones over the slope, blending them straight over it.

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Green and brown oils are applied over the shore, depicting the moss.

This kind of crackle paste can be painted with a sort of different ways such as with filters, washes, patinas and oils without loosing the effect. Once dry the surface tends to be attenuated so it's better to overstate the paint job.

AK026 and 027 are used to depict the moss and greenish color of the tree trunk. Apply them directly and blend with a brush moistened in White Spirit.

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Crushed moss and static grass are used to make the vegetation, glued with white glue dissolved in water.

Spread the mix with a brush and then sprinkle the crushed moss over it. It's advisable to start to work with the short vegetation first.

Apply more white glue and grass in specific areas.

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W apply the same green colors used on the ground blending with Odourless thinner or White Spirit. Let it dry.

The moss over the tree trunk has been simulated with crushed foam glued with white glue. Then we start to glue the tall grass and branches.

The tall grass placed on the shore is glued in its base and cut with a scissors.

Wet the base with pure white glue.

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We use a toothpick to open the grass and give shape to the upper part.

We fill the different levels with all types of vegetation around the riverbed. It's so important to add variety.

AK8028 Puddles is used to imitate the wet and humidity.

This stuff has a brownish tone, very interesting and useful. Apply it with a brush, in several layers.

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This product is thick so we need to use a brush to apply it correctly among the vegetation.

Blend the edges with water as it's an acrylic product.

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The more layers we add the more depth and texture we achieve.

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