The Ultimate Energizer Guide Manual [PDF]

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The ULTIMATE ENERGIZER

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CHAPTER I – THE ULTIMATE ENERGIZER Based on the same principle of A. Matthews generator and after a lot hard work and modified designs we finally managed to put together the Ultimate Energizer. The purpose of this project is to show you the working principle of the Ultimate Energizer.

WARNING!!! DUE TO THE PRESENCE OF HIGH VOLTAGE AND THE HIGH POWER OUTPUT OF THE DEVICE, YOU SHOULD BE VERY CAREFUL AND HAVE EXPERIENCE IN WORKING WITH HIGHVOLTAGE ELECTRONICS! USE SAFETY PROCEDURES BEFORE STARTING THIS PROJECT. BUILD AT YOUR OWN RISK!

This device is like no other device in the world. You will be able to extract unlimited energy from the Earth so be prepared to go beyond our plans and experiment for yourself.

Please Keep All Of This Information For Yourself!

PARTS LIST In order to build your own Ultimate Energizer you will need a few parts. Here’s the list of parts and where to find them: SOLDERING GUN

You can find a good one for under $10 here: https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Replaceable-Precision-ElectronicsCircuit/dp/B07MYS2Z6N/ref=sr 1 28?crid=1FP15615T26YQ&keywords= soldering+iron&qid=1570715364&sprefix=soldering+%2Caps%2C341&sr= 8-28

PLUG

WIRE STRIP PLIERS

NORMAL PLIERS

SCREWDRIVERS

SCISSORS

ISOLATION TUBE

SUPERGLUE ADHESIVE

POWER MONITOR OUTLET

1,2 – 1,5MM STRANDED WIRE – APPROXIMATELY 10M ~ 33 Feet *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

You might already have some wire in your home, if not you can find different size wire at any home improvement store or online. Here’s just an example: https://www.amazon.com/GS-Power-Flexible-AmericanAmplifier/dp/B074S12G91/ref=sr 1 3?keywords=flexible+copper+wire+1 0awg&qid=1558715185&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spell RULER

PEN

CARDBOARD PIECES

You will also need a 500-2200 WATTS INDUCTION COOKER

You can find a moderately priced one here: https://www.amazon.com/Duxtop-8100MC-Portable-InductionCountertop/dp/B0045QEPYM/ref=pd sbs 79 t 1/139-63172338135402? encoding=UTF8&pd rd i=B0045QEPYM&pd rd r=8085cee8 -f7f5-4dc7-895484f38ecf6510&pd rd w=f3xL0&pd rd wg=YoDiH&pf rd p=5cfcfe89300f-47d2-b1ada4e27203a02a&pf rd r=WQ9WXV80F62G0REMRABK&psc=1&refRID= WQ9WXV80F62G0REMRABK

Construction Of The Coil

In order to assemble the coil, we will use the markings on the induction cooker. Therefore, the size of the coil mustn’t exceed the maximum mark (the lines positioned on the top exterior sides of the markings).

We measure the outside diameter (in this case it’s 25cm). We will use a coil with the diameter of 20cm. Then we’ll mark on the cardboard, the necessary 20cm for the coil’s diameter.

Next, we’ll cut out this cardboard support in a square shape, using the scissors.

After spotting the center of this square, we mark it with a pen.

We will now take the stranded wire and after leaving out 20-30cm of it, we start winding the wire, as seen in the picture of this tutorial.

Following, we’ll fix the wire with a fast adhesive.

Please be patient, until the adhesive has come into effect.

Then, continue winding the wire and use the adhesive to fix it.

Also, keep the same color you used for the outside (in this case, black).

The winding is done the moment we get to the 20cm diameter that we initially considered. After you have finished the winding make sure you use more adhesive to fix everything in place and strengthen the coil.

For the last layer, make sure you apply enough adhesive to keep everything together. In the end, we’ll have a nice circular coil. HINT: For best efficiency, the diameter of the wound coil must be as close as possible to the diameter of the coil inside the induction cooker. (But must not exceed the diameter of the induction cooker active zone markings) In this case, our goal is to over amplify the absorption power 2-3 times.

WARNING: Try not to touch the adhesive with your fingers – it can damage your skin. If you do touch it – rinse with water and wipe with a piece of wet cloth.

After the adhesive has dried and the coil is fixed, we will release the wires from the cable, as seen in the picture:

The inside black wire will be connected to the outside red wire.

Make sure you cut the ends to a reasonable size and strip the ends which need to be connected.

We will use a contracting tube for better isolation. Be sure to use this before connecting the two wires.

First twist the wires and then use the soldering gun to connect them. For higher adhesion, we will use pickling paste and then do the soldering.

Then, use the isolation tube as a cover, which you’ll warm up with a lighter or the soldering gun. You can also use insulating tape, but make sure the insulating layer is thick enough.

The other 2 ends will be connected to a dismountable plug. They will be attached as seen in the picture. Then, they’ll be fixed with bolts. Make sure everything is well secured.

We will then fix the wires to the plug’s case and remount the bolts of the cover.

To secure the assembly, we will use insulating tape.

This is all surprisingly simple, right? Our device is now ready.

The other induction coil is positioned inside the induction cooktop. As you can see, this is a new one with no signs of usage and it will secure the second component of our amplifier.

MEANS OF OPERATION So, we now have the assembly with the coil (to which we have connected a plug) and the induction cooktop. The induction cooktop with be plugged into the power monitor outlet.

For testing, we used a 10 bulb x 100W assembly connected in parallel and another assembly with 3 halogen bulbs, 500W each. We will also use 2 electric water heaters, as consumers.

When you want to buy an induction cooktop, you will find 2 versions: one where the induction starts automatically when the induction cooktop is on and another one, where the induction starts the moment a metallic vase is place on the induction cooktop (to protect children). We used the second version and therefore we need the metallic vase.

As soon as the induction starts, we will remove the metallic vase and place the coil that we previously built.

Please notice that at this point, the induction cooktop consumes 1680W and at the other end, we have 3500W consumed power.

Also notice that the bulbs are at their normal capacity and in the water vase, we can already see the bubbles, as the consumers are heated.

If we try to decrease the power consumption of the induction cooktop (decreasing its absorption power to 1400W), you will notice that the light of the bulbs will also lose intensity.

As you can see, the induction cooktop does not get hot on the edges, so the assembly can be touched with no problem. Also, all contacts are in sight. NOTE: Using consumers with an internal resistance will ensure the optimal maximum efficiency of the system: bulbs, cookers, AC units, refrigerators, electric stoves, or electric heaters. You can use other types of consumers as well, but the efficiency will be lower. We have gone further with our experiment and tried to put back the excess energy generated by the device back into the grid using a Grid Tie Inverter.

We reached the conclusion that a 2500W inverter is needed for a fully autonomous off-grid system to work.

The original patent was designed for a system which included 2 coils and an induction circuit. Nowadays, we can use the induction cooker as part of the system, since it has the necessary electronics initially imagined by Matthews. Disclaimer: BE CAREFUL, USE EXTREME CAUTION!!! This device uses High Voltage, ALWAYS switch off and disconnect the induction cooker before touching the induction plate or the output coil. Never touch the OUTPUT loads (lamps, heater, boiler) while the induction cooker is working. This experiment is not intended for the inexperienced. Users of this document should be very careful and also experienced in dealing with High-Voltage electronics! If you consider starting this experiment, you BUILD AT YOUR OWN RISK.

IMAGE GALLERY FROM THE TESTING OF THE DEVICE

CHAPTER II – CONNECTING YOUR GENERATOR TO YOUR HOME Once you have your system ready (that we explained in the previous chapter) up and generating electricity, it’s time to connect it to your electricity system, which can be done in a variety of ways. Below you can find some diagrams of the most commonly used setups. Note that the below setups can be used for different power sources, including wind, solar and other sources of energy. Simple Power Setup First, keep in mind that batteries always work better in a warm temperature so you might consider buying a battery box. The battery box is great for storage, it keeps things clean and organized; it also keeps children or pets from playing around and getting hurt.

1. OFFGRID SYSTEM 2. Charge Controller 3. Battery 4. Inverter 5. Household You might consider adding a system meter to act as a go between your battery and inverter. A system meter tells you how much juice the battery has left and how much power is being used at any given time.

Grid-tied Power Source System If you are still using power from the grid, this kind of system will work the best for you. This system can also be called on-grid-tied. You can actually make the electric meter tick backwards, by producing more power than you use each day. You can actually get a credit from the electric company if the meter starts going backward. Save those credits when the system is off or when more electricity will be needed. This process is known as net metering or net billing. Of course, it’s always a good idea to talk to your electric company to find out the rules and regulations.

1. OFFGRID SYSTEM 2. Array DC Disconnect 3. Inverter 4. AC Breaker panel 5. Household 6. Kilowatt per hour meter 7. Grid

Grid-tied System With Battery Backup You may need to rely on a battery backup system in case of down time and maintenance to the power system. The picture below shows the grid intertied system with the battery backup.

1. OFFGRID SYSTEM 2. Array DC disconnect 3. Charge Controller 4. Deep cycle battery 5. System meter 6. Main DC disconnect 7. Inverter 8. AC Breaker panel 9. Kilowatt per hour meter 10. Grid 11. Household

Off-Grid Power Source System This system requires a generator to keep the battery charged for those down times. This system is pictured below.

1. OFFGRID SYSTEM 2. Array DC disconnect 3. Charge Controller 4. Deep cycle battery 5. System meter 6. Main DC disconnect 7. Inverter 8. Generator 9. AC Breaker panel 10. Household loads

SYSTEM UNITS The DC Disconnect This part is extremely important for efficient disabling of power in such cases as maintenance work and so forth.

The Charge Regulator This is a part I highly recommend, even if it may seem unnecessary at first. It monitors and controls the charging of the battery, preventing it from being overcharged and monitoring the discharge during the night. The charge regulator, by doing these things, extends the life span of the battery and will thus save you having to replace your batteries quite so often as would otherwise be the case.

The Deep-Cycle Battery Deep-cycle batteries are preferable to regular batteries because they store all power produced by the solar panels, preventing waste.

The System Measuring Device Should you be interested in how much energy your system is producing, and how much is consumed, you will need a system- measuring device. This device will thus help you monitor your system to make sure you are getting the most efficiency, and the most savings, from it.

The Main DC Disconnect A main DC disconnect is essential for the maintenance needs of the inverter. As the name suggests, it helps disconnect the inverter.

The Inverter Most of the appliances we commonly use run on alternating current (AC). But the solar panels only generate direct current (DC). An inverter converts direct current into alternating current. If you do not use AC appliances (such as TVs, refrigerators, and computers) then a DC output will suffice and you will not require the inverter.

The Generator Any solar-power system that is not grid-tied needs an alternative source of energy for those times when the system is down or disabled (such as during periods of maintenance or improper weather). In order to make sure the energy supply is not cut off in such moments, you should employ a generator to temporarily cover the energy production.

The AC Breaker Panel The appliances in any home can be directly connected to the inverter in order to run them on the energy produced by the solar-energy system. However, this is not usual because most energy sources are connected to the electrical wiring in a home by an AC breaker panel. This device acts as a kind of intersection point between the actual energy source and the various appliances that source feeds. AC breaker panels are usually installed outside the house or in a utility room or garage. The difficulty with them is that you cannot tamper with them unless you are an authorized person – an electrician or similar. Also, you will need to contact your local energy provider and tell them you want to connect your solar-energy system to the panel.

Each country has its own regulations in this regard and you will need to find out about those.

The Grid It goes without saying that this element is essential in a grid-tied system. The grid, of course, and in the absence of alternative sources, provides all the energy to our homes.

The Appliances Any device that needs electricity in order to run is an appliance. Our energy needs are defined by these appliances.

Multimeter You will be using the multi-meter to measure the input amps and voltages of the batteries. Although it is okay to use a digital multimeter, it is recommended to try and use an Analog. The reason for this is you are using a pulse DC in the SSG and an analog will go up to 1amp or more.

The Kilowatt-per-Hour Indicator This unit is necessary for grid-tied systems. The purpose of it is to determine the energy which is both received from and delivered to the grid. The meter will turn backwards if the energy consumption is smaller than the energy produced.

Chapter III – ANOTHER AMAZING DEVICE (BONUS CHAPTER) – FOR EXPERMENTAL PURPOSES ONLY! As a BONUS, we’d like to offer you the plans and instructions for building yet another device that you could use in your ongoing battle to go off the grid.

WARNING!!! DUE TO THE PRESENCE OF HIGH VOLTAGE AND THE HIGH POWER OUTPUT OF THE DEVICE, YOU SHOULD BE VERY CAREFUL AND HAVE EXPERIENCE IN WORKING WITH HIGHVOLTAGE ELECTRONICS! USE SAFETY PROCEDURES BEFORE STARTING THIS PROJECT. BUILD AT YOUR OWN RISK! - FOR EXPERMENTAL PURPOSES ONLY! Before you start we recommend not starting the device inside the house as it will interfere with all electrical equipment. The device generates a lot of radio waves. Turn off all electrical appliances in the house while testing. The main working principle of the generator is to extract the free electrons from the Earth. Imagine the Earth as a big capacitor filled with free electric charges. Creating or finding an imbalance between two points in the ground, will create the possibility to extract additional electrons from the ground and therefore create an increase of the current flow through a wire connected between these two points.

NOTE: 10 Meters apart = ~ 33 Feet

PARTS LIST In order to build your own generator you will need a few parts: 1. Variac 220 V/ 250 V 2 KVA (this is used to start your device using AC power from any socket)

or Inductive Load Inverter 12 VDC to 240 VAC (this is used to start your device using power from a 12 V car battery or other DC power source)

2. A high voltage transformer – I recommend using a Microwave Oven Transformer (around 800W)

EXTREME DANGER - RISK OF DEATH MOTs are very dangerous due to their high output current. Touching the high voltage end will probably result in death, at least in very severe burns. 3. 30A 220V Breaker

4. High voltage Capacitor 1µF 2100 VAC

WARNING! Always wear rubber gloves, long sleeve jacket and rubber shoes when working with HV charged capacitors. Always discharge them when you are done and keep them away from children! 5. 10 MΩ Resistor

6. 12 KW High voltage Diode 05-12 F04

7. Adjustable Spark Gap (You can either buy one or build it yourself as we’ll explain further in the manual)

8. 2*Copper rivet 4 mm diam = 0.16 inch (If you chose to build the spark gap yourself)

9. PVC tube ~50 mm = 1.97 inch diameter ~320 mm = 12.6 inch length

10.

PVC Sockets for the PVC tube

11. 8 mm = 0.31 inch diam copper rod 400 mm = 15.75 inch length (or copper wire)

12. 2*12 mm = 2*0.47 inch diam copper tube 400 mm = 15.75 inch length

13. ~2 m = 6.56 Feet of 2.5 mm2 copper wire *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

14. ~30 m = 98.5 Feet of 1.5 mm2 copper wire *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

15. A bunch of surge arrestors EPCOS 230 V (one for every light bulb you’ll use)

16.

15 x 100w/220V halogen light bulbs

17.

15 x Sockets - one for each light bulb

18. ~ 10 m = 33 Feet of 2.5 mm2 flexible copper wire *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

19.

A thick steel plate to place under the MOT (size depends on

the size of the casing in which you’ll place the MOT)

20.

Plastic boxes (1x for placing the MOT, 3-4x for the light bulbs)

TOOLS LIST Here are some tools and materials you should have when starting this project: Sheets of Acrylic Aluminum U Profiles Bolts/Nuts/Wire Lugs/Etc Electrical Tape Polyurethane Varnish Drill Soldering Kit Hammer Threaded Rods L-Shaped Metal Pieces Rulers Fan High Density Polyethylene (Chopping Board) Saw Fuse Holder Wooden Blocks Spray Paint Wooden Boards Multimeter Alligator clips

Soldering gun Solder Pickling paste Plug Wire strip pliers Normal pliers Screwdrivers Scissors Isolation tube Superglue adhesive Power monitor outlet Ruler Pen

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

STEP 1. THE COIL The first thing you should do before assembling the system is to build up the coil. We will show you how to build a classic coil for this device but we strongly encourage you to experiment with different coil setups. There are many types of winding coils. You will be using the simple layer winding type.

In order to do that just take the PVC tube and with the 1.5 mm2 copper wire (could be isolated) start winding up the coil. You must wind aprox. 106-110 turns on the PVC tube like this: 80-84 turns in clockwise direction then stop.

Reverse coil direction by winding new winding counterclockwise and wind on top of the existing winding and go in the opposite direction 25 turns.

After 25 turns stop. *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

Next take some plastic strips or any other insulating material you will use as spacers for the windings (4-8 mm = 0.15-0.30 inch diam; you can use wood as well). Begin gluing/taping the spacers equidistant around the circumference of the primary coil – on the section of the coil that has the single layer winding - not over the 24 turns counterclockwise. Here’s how the coil should look by now:

Next, start winding the 2.5 mm2 copper wire 6 turns counter-clockwise on top of the spacers. *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix Connect the secondary coil to the initial primary winding wire. Finished coil:

Next, take the 8 mm diam copper rod and insert it through the PVC tube.

Note: if you do not find or do not want to buy this copper rod you can improvise one with 5*1.5 mm2 copper wire. *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

Now for the connections: connect the start of your 1.5 mm2 copper wire from your first winding to the end of your 2.5 mm2 copper wire. For the last part of your coil insert two pieces of 1.5 mm2 of copper wire through the tube and connect them both on one side to the top of your copper rod. Let the other side free. Insert copper rod with the connections made inside the PVC tube.

*See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

NOTE: DON’T FORGET TO INSULATE AT EVERY STEP OF THE WINDING WITH INSULATING TAPE.

Your coil is now complete!

VARIATIONS We strongly encourage you to experiment with different coil setups. Here are some coil setups that we used with great success: Variation 1: • 90 turns 1.5mm CW • 30 turns 1.5mm CCW • 6 turns 16mm CCW Variation 2 • 84 turns 1.5mm CW • 22 turns 1.5mm CCW • 6 turns 16mm CCW *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix STEP 2. THE SPARK GAP Along with the coil, the SPARK GAP is one of the most important parts of the system, because it allows you to adjust the frequency of the device which is a crucial factor in making the unit to work properly. Again, we encourage you to experiment with different setups and materials. You can buy a readymade adjustable spark gap, something that looks like this:

…or you can build one yourself. Here’s a basic design:

You can build the spark gap using two copper rivets mounted on a ceramic insulated copper shunt or any kind of improvised stand you can build. (For a better performance of the device try different rivet materials - like carbon and copper etc.) Always work on and experiment with the spark gap. You can improve and fine tune the spark gap to obtain better energy output. We have noticed that a 0.9 mm to 1.2 mm gap works best for our device. *0.035 to 0.047 inch You should be able to obtain a very quiet and weak spark. A plasma cloud is created between the gap, there is no sound of sparks discharge. The plasma discharge is quiet and stable between the spark gap. REMEMBER: Please secure/cover your spark gap and don’t touch it! It’s very dangerous.

STEP 3. CONNECTING EVERYTHING TOGETHER

We now need to connect everything together. First of all take a wooden or acrylic board to build on. Mount all of the components according to the schematics. You can build the setup in a plastic or wooden box for safety. The input current goes in the M.O.T. (Microwave Oven Transformer) so connect the input cables or socket to the M.O.T.

I suggest mounting a 30A 220 V breaker before entering the circuit.

Then on the (+) of the M.O.T connect the HV Capacitor and the 10MΩ Resistor connected in parallel. Next in parallel with the M.O.T. and the capacitor assembly connect the HV Diode.

From the (-) of the capacitor connect a wire to the spark gap…and from the other side of the spark gap connect a wire to the end of the 1.5 mm2 copper wire from the coil. *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

Connect one end of the 5 m = 16.40 Feet copper wire to the bottom of the copper rod in your PVC tube and the other end to one of the copper tubes you have and stick it in the ground.

If the ground is solid pour some water in it. Water helps for better extracting the energy from the ground.

Above are two examples of grounding.

As shown in the schematics connect one of the bottom ends of the copper wires that goes through the PVC tube to the other end of the HV Diode and then connect them both to the (-) of the M.O.T. Let the other wire free.

The 2.5 mm2 copper wire from the coil goes to your load. *See Metric To AWG Wires Table In the Appendix

STEP 4. GROUNDING This is a crucial step of the building process! To work properly, the device requires two earth ground connections 10 meters apart. *~33 Feet

The power tapped depends on the weather conditions and the underground current flow...

Then connect each bulb in series.

After you have done connecting the bulbs or any other device you want to power take the other 5 m = 16.40 Feet copper wire and connect it to the () of your bulbs/device and the other end to the second copper tube and stick it in the ground but opposite direction from the first tube 10 meters apart. STEP 6. YOU’RE ALL SET! The device utilizes a 220 V AC 50 HZ input current to start. You can either deliver this input current from your wall socket through a Variac (I suggest mounting a 30A 220 V breaker before entering the circuit) or you can start your device using a 12 V car battery through an Inductive Load Inverter. You can also build your Load Inverter by following the 555 time oscillator circuit diagram below:

To work properly, The device requires two earth ground connections 10 meters spaced. The power tapped depends on the weather conditions and the underground current flow. The spark gap of the generator must be at least 0.9 mm apart and maximum 1.2 mm apart. *0.035 to 0.047 inch You can test for yourself different setups. A plasma cloud is created between the gap, there should be no sound of spark discharge. RESULTS Here are the results we obtained after a few tests… We Encourage You To Experiment With Different Setups! To measure the electrical INPUT POWER of the system, we have used an energy consumption meter connected at the output of the Variac:

Here are our average readings for the input: Active Power 1102 W Apparent power 1090 Voltage 183.2V Current around 6 A OPTIONALLY: To measure the OUTPUT POWER of the device you will need an opaque plastic black box and a luxmeter:

Take one of the light bulbs, connect it directly to the variac and place it inside the black box. Use the luxmeter to measure the light intensity. Notice the power needed to obtain the maximum lux. Now that we have our reference it’s easy to determine the total power of our device. Reconnect the light bulb to the device and measure again while the device is running. The total OUPUT power for all of the halogen light bulbs can now be easily calculated:

For the test run we have used one 100W light bulb. At around 91W the luxmeter displayed around 4000 LUX. After we connected all the light bulbs we recorded around 80W (for one light bulb) and 3075 LUX. So for the same input power of ~169W, on our setup of 11x100W halogen light bulbs, we obtained an output of around 880W. You now have free energy you can use however you want. Keep in mind that you are dealing with very high voltages and you must be very careful. REMEMBER: The working process of the generator is getting free electrons from the Earth. The Earth is a big capacitor which contains free electric charges. If it is possible to create or to find a potential imbalance between two points in the ground, it seems possible to suck additional electrons from the ground and thus to create an increase of the current flow through a wire connected between these two points.

WARNING!!! Build these projects at your own risk! We are not responsible for errors in the plans, diagrams, or instructions and other people’s opinions on these projects! Some of these projects deal with very high voltages!!! If you are not familiar with high voltages/amps we recommend that you seek the services of a qualified licensed professional to help you! High voltages can kill in an instant so be safe and learn all that you can about high voltage safety before attempting these projects!

CHAPTER IV – A VARIATION OF THE PREVIOUS DESIGN (BONUS CHAPTER) We’d like to offer you another variation of the previous device for your OWN TESTING PURPOSES.

WARNING!!! DUE TO THE PRESENCE OF HIGH VOLTAGE AND THE HIGH POWER OUTPUT OF THE DEVICE, YOU SHOULD BE VERY CAREFUL AND HAVE EXPERIENCE IN WORKING WITH HIGHVOLTAGE ELECTRONICS! USE SAFETY PROCEDURES BEFORE STARTING THIS PROJECT. BUILD AT YOUR OWN RISK!

THE PARTS you’ll need: 1. For the start up input current you will need a 12V car battery…

…and an Inductive Load Inverter 12 VDC to 240 VAC (this is used to start your device using power from a 12 V car battery or other DC power source)

2. 6*High Voltage Diodes (HVP16 HV Diode 16kV 750ma)

3. Neon Tube Driver or Neon HV Converter (Input 220V Output 8kV/30mA)

4. 1*.2uF 4000V Capacitor (or you can stack two 2000V capacitors together)

5. Spark Gap (You will need to construct one from two copper rivets 4mm diam.) or you can buy a spark arrestor or enclosed spark gap.

6. For the coils you will need 18 m of 1.12 mm diam. standard copper wire (2.54mm diam. with insulation) , inductance 80uH; 2*2m 2.18mm solid copper wire, inductance 8, 16, 19uH.

7. 1*.47uF High Voltage Capacitor

8. Capacitor Bank : 8000V 2uF

9. High Voltage Resistor 1Kohm

OTHER EQUIPMENT Multimeter: A digital multimeter is OK but we highly recommended using an analogue amp meter, which goes up to 1amp or more. You will also need the meter to measure your input amps as well your battery voltages. Soldering Iron: The soldering iron will be used to solder the circuit.

For the same reason you may want to connect a capacitor across the secondary coil. There are various ways of dealing with the output from the secondary coil in order to get large amounts of conventional electrical power out of the device. The method presented above uses a very big capacitor bank. These go up to 8,000 V and they are used to store the circuit power. This is achieved by placing the capacitor bank through a rectifying diode which can support both high voltage and high current. NOTE: Please bear in mind that this variation of the device is only for your own testing purposes, since no one does really need that much power. BE REALLY CAREFUL AND BUILD AT YOUR OWN RISK! When the circuit is running, the capacitor bank behaves like an 8,000 volt battery which never runs down and which can supply 20 amps of current for as long as you want. You can then use an inverter to transform the output power to either 110V or 240V depending on your needs. Please bear in mind that the voltages and power levels are literally lethal and can kill anyone who handles the device carelessly. Any replication of this device must be encased so that none of the high-voltage connections can be touched by anyone. This is a "one hand in the pocket at all times" type of circuit and it needs to be treated with great care at all times. BUILD AT YOUR OWN RISK.

WHERE TO FIND THE PARTS? Here’s a quick buy guide you can use to find the most important parts of the two BONUS projects. Please keep in mind that the buy guide below is strictly for informational purpose only and does not reflect the cheapest price or the best deals on the market. Please do your own research before starting this project. 1. The Variac 220 V/250 V 2 KVA http://www.volteq.com/volteq-2kva-transformer-variac-2000va-0-250v220v-input.html Inductive Load Inverter 12 VDC to 240 VAC https://www.amazon.com/weikin-Power-Inverter-1000w-1000w220V/dp/B01519QHCE/ref=sr 1 3?crid=3RWSHEYEJSJH3&keywords=i nverter+12+to+220&qid=1558713841&s=gateway&sprefix=inverter+12+% 2Caps%2C242&sr=8-3 2. A high voltage transformer https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-MD-801EMR-1-microwave-oventransformer-universal800W/283461449726?hash=item41ff9e77fe:g:bMwAAOSw3ShcwASc You can definitely source this one from an old microwave oven from the junkyard. 3. 30A 220V Breaker https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-220V-30A-2P-ELCB-Earth-LeakageCircuitBreaker/171559527460?hash=item27f1bea424:g:RbYAAOSwvg9XU-kO

4. High voltage Capacitor 1μF 2100 VAC https://www.ebay.com/itm/Microwave-Oven-H-V-High-VoltageCapacitor-Model-CH85-21100-2100VAC-1-00uF-/223455414068 5. 10 MΩ Resistor https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-Hochspannungswiderstand-20kV10MOhm-10W-Spannungsteiler-HighVoltageResistor/202665393973?hash=item2f2fcc7f35:g:iuIAAOSwvGVa1Oea 6. 12 KW High voltage Diode 05-12 F04 https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-HVM12-CL01-12-Microwave-OvenHigh-Voltage-Diode-Rectifier-12KV350mA/120782901885?hash=item1c1f38d27d:g:J60AAOSwCfRbF8hR https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12KVolt-Microwave-Oven-High-VoltageDiode-Part-HV05-12A-/142239031405 7. Adjustable Spark Gap https://www.rmcybernetics.com/shop/high-voltage/adjustable-spark-gap 8. Copper rivets https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15091700ux0431-Copper-RivetsFasteners/dp/B018HMDFNQ/ref=sr 1 9?keywords=copper+rivet&qid=1 558714712&s=gateway&sr=8-9 9. PVC tube ~50 mm = 1.97 inch https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html? nkw=2%22+pvc+pipe& sop=12

10.

PVC Sockets

https://www.ebay.com/itm/50mm-PVC-Pipe-Cap-Fitting-Slip-SocketExternal-End-Caps-2Pcs/303097170685?epid=8030447621&hash=item4691ffcafd:g:q8oAAOS wasZclr8f 11.

Copper rod

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html? from=R40& trksid=m570.l1313& nk w=copper+rod& sacat=0 12.

Copper tube

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html? from=R40& trksid=m570.l1313& nk w=copper+tube& sacat=0&LH TitleDesc=0& osacat=0& odkw=copper +rod 13.

Copper wire

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1M-Pure-Copper-Wire-Round-SolidUncoated-0-5mm-to-2-5mm-Making-WireCraft/302021731299?var=600819068689&hash=item4651e5e3e3:m:mfgd Ebo0gyq8GpmSel3Mclw 14.

Surge arrestors EPCOS 230 V

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EPCOS-EHV-Series-230V-2-5kA-ThroughHole-2-Electrode-Arrester-Gas-DischargeTube/113153920509?hash=item1a587fcdfd:g:UisAAOSwe7JbTcCy

15.

100w/220V halogen light bulbs

https://www.amazon.com/Satco-S2404-Lumens-Halogen-2Pack/dp/B00BCHYUJ2/ref=sr 1 22?keywords=halogen+light+bulb+100 w&qid=1558715049&s=gateway&sr=8-22 16.

Sockets

https://www.amazon.com/Hanpearl-Halogen-Holder-ConverterAdapter/dp/B017X292WO/ref=sr 1 9?keywords=light+bulb+socket&qid =1558715095&s=gateway&sr=8-9-spell 17.

Flexible copper wire

https://www.amazon.com/GS-Power-Flexible-AmericanAmplifier/dp/B074S12G91/ref=sr 1 3?keywords=flexible+copper+wire+1 0awg&qid=1558715185&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spell 18.

Thick steel plate

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-304-Stainless-Steel-Fine-Polished-PlateSheet-1-200200mm/323160706460?hash=item4b3de10d9c:g:xbEAAOSwADtaseqN 19.

Plastic box

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZXZZ2V?aaxitk=A98iaziTIySSEV3OF2JKA&pd rd i=B06ZZXZZ2V&pf rd p=3fade48ae699-4c96-bf08-bb772ac0e242&hsa cr id=3557747810201&sb-cin=productDescription&sb-civ=Homz%20Plastic%20Storage%2C%20Modular%20Stackable%20Storag e%20Bins%20with%20Blue%20Latching%20Handles%2C%2066%20Quar t%2C%20Clear%2C%202-Pack&sb-ci-a=B06ZZXZZ2V

TOOLS LIST Here are some tools and materials you should have when starting this project: Sheets of Acrylic Aluminum U Profiles Bolts/Nuts/Wire Lugs/Etc Electrical Tape Polyurethane Varnish Drill Soldering Kit Hammer Threaded Rods L-Shaped Metal Pieces Rulers Fan High Density Polyethylene (Chopping Board) Saw Fuse Holder Wooden Blocks Spray Paint Wooden Boards Multimeter Alligator clips Soldering gun Solder Pickling paste Plug Wire strip pliers Normal pliers Screwdrivers Scissors Isolation tube Superglue adhesive Power monitor outlet Ruler Pen

WARNING!!! Build these projects at your own risk! We are not responsible for errors in the plans, diagrams, or instructions and other people’s opinions on these projects! Some of these projects deal with very high voltages!!! If you are not familiar with high voltages/amps we recommend that you seek the services of a qualified licensed professional to help you! High voltages can kill in an instant so be safe and learn all that you can about high voltage safety before attempting these projects!

CONCLUSION One can never predict with exactness what will happen in the future. However, one is more likely to be precise about the things that will not happen, provided that we decide and do everything possible to prevent them from happening. For instance, it is a fact that humanity will not be able to rely on fossil fuel forever. Below are some ideas as to the future, in addition to the ideas already discussed in this book. Solar Energy Unobstructed Solar-power systems are great, but the main inconvenient feature is that they don’t work during cloudy periods of time. But theoretically at least, there are ways to constantly collect sunlight, avoiding at the same time all the hindrances entailed by regular solar power systems. One solution is to place huge PV panels in orbit, thus eluding the clouds and other issues that normally obstruct or diminish solar energy. This will enable people to receive energy virtually continuously. But this project will be realized only if scientists solve another matter, that is, how to make the connection between those panels and the users located down here, on the earth. Anyway, this idea is rather unlikely to be put into practice in the near future. Flying Wind Farms This idea may seem like something out of a science-fiction story. Of course, if they do ever exist it will not be anytime soon. Yet once the technological limitations are no longer a concern, the project may seem more reasonable than it does now. Such farms would collect wind power from presently inaccessible places such as over the oceans, for example. Nanotechnology This is an area that looks promising. Nanotechnology (the field of science that deals with the control of matter on the atomic or molecular level)

concerns far more than the theme of renewable energy but it has the power change the way we think about alternative sources of energy, because it is able to increase the efficiency of the technology involved in this field. The Power of Earth Our planet is full of resources – renewable, of course – that could offer to us the benefits we now obtain from exploiting limited reserves. Earthquakes, storms, the power of the waves, volcanoes and many other phenomena are potentially excellent sources of energy. Of course, ways to exploit these still need to be explored and developed and it is hoped that in the not-too-distant future great progress will be made in these fields as, indeed, it has already in wind and solar power over the last few decades. Afterword Since it’s always comforting to finish a project on a positive note, it must be said that changes will occur in the near future with respect to alternative sources of energy. The degree of awareness increases and technology advances, and people are empowered to make decisions regarding ways to reduce their energy bills, preserving their environment and be more self-reliant. Future generations will benefit from such thinking, but we can start the process by changing our behavior and our attitude today. Because it is by little changes that big revolutions are triggered. We would like to thank you for taking the time to read our guide and hope you enjoyed it! Good luck and congratulations for joining the other smart people who are producing their own energy and helping the environment.

APPENDIX – Metric To AWG Wires

AWG Number Ø [Inch] Ø [mm] Ø [mm²] 6/0 = 000000 0.580 14.73 170.30 5/0 = 00000 0.517 13.12 135.10 4/0 = 0000 0.460 11.7 107 3/0 = 000 0.410 10.4 85.0 2/0 = 00 0.365 9.26 67.4 1/0 = 0 0.325 8.25 53.5 1 0.289 7.35 42.4 2 0.258 6.54 33.6 3 0.229 5.83 26.7 4 0.204 5.19 21.1 5 0.182 4.62 16.8 6 0.162 4.11 13.3 7 0.144 3.66 10.5 8 0.128 3.26 8.36 9 0.114 2.91 6.63 10 0.102 2.59 5.26 11 0.0907 2.30 4.17 12 0.0808 2.05 3.31 13 0.0720 1.83 2.62 14 0.0641 1.63 2.08 15 0.0571 1.45 1.65 16 0.0508 1.29 1.31 17 0.0453 1.15 1.04 18 0.0403 1.02 0.823

19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

0.0359 0.0320 0.0285 0.0253 0.0226 0.0201 0.0179 0.0159 0.0142 0.0126 0.0113 0.0100 0.00893 0.00795 0.00708 0.00631 0.00562 0.00500 0.00445 0.00397 0.00353 0.00314

0.912 0.812 0.723 0.644 0.573 0.511 0.455 0.405 0.361 0.321 0.286 0.255 0.227 0.202 0.180 0.160 0.143 0.127 0.113 0.101 0.0897 0.0799

0.653 0.518 0.410 0.326 0.258 0.205 0.162 0.129 0.102 0.0810 0.0642 0.0509 0.0404 0.0320 0.0254 0.0201 0.0160 0.0127 0.0100 0.00797 0.00632 0.00501