The Pocket Warhammer 40K PDF [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

Contents

Contents Contents

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Introduction Briefing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 mm vs. 6 mm . . . . . . . . . . .

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What do you need Miniatures . . . . . . . . . . . Templates and other tools . . Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Magne zing models . . . . . . Sculp ng and custom modifica

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Rescaled Meters and Conversion System The Math behind the Game . . . . . . Printable Meters and Templates . . . The Evil Math-Intensive Addendum . .

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Set up the game Differen ate Models Model Magne za on Pain ng . . . . . . . Basing and Base Size Tables . . . . . . . .

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Practical tips Play fast, play safe . . . . . . . . . . . Pocket 40K is Epic Armageddon . . . . Link . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Tutorials Adeptus Custodes . . . . . Catacomb Command Barge la on barge . . . . . Dark Eldar Raider . . . . . Destroyer Lord . . . . . . . Doom Scythe . . . . . . . Doomsday Ark . . . . . . .

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Dark Eldar Mandrakes . . . . . . . Necron Monolith . . . . . . . . . Myce c Spore . . . . . . . . . . . Ork Trukk . . . . . . . . . . . . . Razorwing . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rhino to Razorback and viceversa Screamers of Tzeench . . . . . . . Soulgrinder . . . . . . . . . . . . Stormraven Gunship . . . . . . . Talos Pain Engine . . . . . . . . . Tau Ba lesuit . . . . . . . . . . . Tervigon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Trygon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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F.A.Q. Gallery Black Templars . . . Blood Angels . . . . Ba le Sisters . . . . Chaos Daemons . . Chaos Space Marine Dark Eldar . . . . . Eldar . . . . . . . . Grey Knights . . . . Imperial Guard . . Necron . . . . . . . Orks . . . . . . . . Space Wolves . . . Tau . . . . . . . . . Tyranids . . . . . . Pekel . . . . . . . . Drax . . . . . . . . S ngray . . . . . .

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42 44 47 48 49 54 56 57 57 65 68 69 70 76

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80 80 84 88 89 90 99 104 110 114 121 125 136 141 142 147 152 170

Contacts

176

The team

176

Disclaimer

177

INTRODUCTION

Introduction

for newcomers, because provides a very good way of introducing the game without too much prepara on. It’s most likely the best way to present the game to other people, since all that is needed is well contained in a backpack and can be carried around either at school, university or even work.

Briefing If you always thought that Warhammer 40,000 was a too demanding game for the limited capabili es of your table, here comes a brand new incredibly small design for your future games. Complete with rules adapta on, ps, and inspiring pictures of bloody massacre.

If you want to know all you need to know to start Pocket WH40K, check “What do you need” at page 5, otherwise the pictures in the Gallery (page 80) will give you a quick idea of what we’re talking about. In the end, if you like the idea and you want to start making your own pocket armies, the website provides all the necessary informa on, tools and contacts you need to do so, combined with our ac ve and always busy team.

The aim of this website is to show you how to reduce every single model in Warhammer 40,000 into his 6 mm version. Shrinking the sizes allows gaming in many different condi ons and places, makes the game much cheaper, and much easier to store and transport. If you think it’s a good idea to reduce the dimensions of the game, while keeping intact the strategical depth, then in this website you will find all the necessary instruc ons and ps on how to rescale your en re army in a mints box! On the other hand, if you play Warhammer 40,000 to enjoy beau fully painted and extremely detailed models and scenery, this version may be a bit of a disappointment.

28 mm vs. 6 mm

Regardless of your gaming personality we’d like to invite you, newcomer, casual gamer, veteran, or painter, to have a look; the website is mostly picture-oriented and is intended to show the outcome of what we reckon to be a very good idea.

We’d be lying to you if we were to say that going to 6 mm is just be er or funnier than 28 mm. When it comes to fun, everyone has his own taste about it, and this small adapta on of Warhammer 40.000 can easily be despised due to whatever reason. During our gametes ng we’ve been carefully gathering and collec ng as many opinions as possible, to let you know what are the things that you may find annoying even before you start. Below there is a very quick list of the cri cal points that some players have brought to our a en on:

”Pocket Warhammer 40K”, as we like to call it (but can’t, for copyright reasons), is much suitable for very impa ent gamers who don’t like to spend much me on paint. It is also good

• It is E I to understand that your first games with 6 mm are going to be slower than 28 mm! Very ny infantry models can be difficult to handle,

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WHAT DO YOU NEED place, move and so on. Precise measurements, correct template placing, sca ering, etc. They all suffer the same problem. On this subject, we ask you to trust us when we say that it’s only a ma er of me and prac ce. A er the ini al adapta on to the smaller gaming system, everything is going to be all right again. It’s a new game, and it takes a bit of dedica on in the start, just like 28 mm Warhammer.

players, and especially the ones that rely on 1/20 of inch difference for the victory, are probably not going to like this. At all. As a final note we would like to remember to everybody that it is no sin to own both 6 mm and 28 mm models. We actually own many 28 mm models, but, simply put, we find the game more enjoyable when it’s shrunk.

• Most obviously, the miniatures are small and lack fine detail. This feature of Pocket Warhammer will most likely be okay to all those players who are more interested into the gaming aspect of Warhammer rather than the ar s c one. If you think that miniature’s extreme details and perfect representa on of the equipment are a must for Warhammer, this conversion may not suit you (unless you’re in for a big challenge).

What do you need The super-short summary of all (All!) the things you’ll need to get started with Pocket WH40K.

Miniatures The first and foremost thing you are going to need are models from the Epic Armageddon game, a 6 mm reduc on previously sold by Games Workshop and discon nued in 2013. Nowadays neither Games Workshop nor ForgeWorld produce 6 mm miniatures anymore, however most models can s ll be found on eBay, in second hand shops, or can easily be proxed using 6 mm miniatures from third party producers.

• Some people point out the difficulty of placing small markers on miniatures to keep track of wounds or any other sort of informa on. This problem can be easily fixed buying very small dices (6 mm high), available pre y much everywhere in big bunches. It is also true that no one who actually played the game has ever come up with this cri cism, and we’ve never had such problems ourselves.

If you don’t find what you need, or you want to further improve your gaming experience, you might eventually decide to make your own models. To help you in this task, a complete list of miniature retailers for most units/proxies can be found in the link list at page 28.

• Shrinking down the scale of the game implies that measurements errors are ”more likely” (yes, we have made the math). With respect to game balance, this is not a problem at all, since it affects all the players in the same manner. The most compe ve

For addi onal guidance the Tutorial sec on contains several examples of custom-made miniatures (page ).

5

WHAT DO YOU NEED

Templates and other tools

way too strong to allow side-by-side placing of models because they were strongly repelling each other, or even worse, collapsing into a big miniature tangle.

To play Warhammer, you’ll need properly rescaled meters, templates and bases (for bigger models). For precise meters and templates, we already took care of everything with a simple printable page (see page 8). Bases of more than 6 mm in diameter, or of unusual shape, can be custom made out of thick cardboard, thick magne c foil, plas card, or even more easily, buying them from the retailers listed in the Link sec on (page 28). In any case, remember to check our guidelines on base sizes and basing techniques from the appropriate chapter (page 23).

In general the standard fridge magnets, even just 0.3mm thick, will give your miniatures and scenery a perfect and gravity-proof adherence to the board. More on this in the dedicated secon at page 20.

Sculpting and custom modifications Green stuff and thin plas card are must-have materials if you want to modify or create your own 6 mm miniatures. Proper sculp ng tools and precision cu ers are also quite important if you want to achieve adequate model quality with ease.

Table Out of experience, we suggest to use a metallic board and miniatures fi ed with magnets. The appropriate board size to use is discussed at page 8. In short, what you’ll need is either an A3 or two A4 metallic boards, and you’re gaming table is complete! If you want to see a few examples of what is possible, just skip to page 25! On the aesthe c side, the cheapness and ease of produc on of the gaming board means that you can have a plen ful of different scenarios to play onto.

Scenery, on the other hand, is very simple to produce and doesn’t require precise measurements. Use bits and components gathered from everywhere, and you will end up very soon with a good amount of extra-small highly-portable terrain. Magnets come handy also in this case; we suggest that you use medium to big magnets for scenery elements as they are much heavier than miniatures. You can see various sizes of magnets used for our terrain elements in the Model Magne za on sec on at page 20.

Magnetizing models When most people think about magne zing models, pre y much everyone thinks immediately to rare-earth superstrong magnets. We tried to use rare earth magnets for the single models, but we soon discovered that they were

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RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM

Rescaled Meters and Conversion System

for Classic Warhammer 40K are 6’x4’, but a er the conversion they become: 6·6 = 1.29′ = 38.6cm 28

The Math behind the Game 4·6 = 0.86′ = 25.7cm 28

In this sec on there is all the necessary informaon to reduce the dimensions of every game element without affec ng rules or game balance. Our approach to scale down everything goes through a few very simple calcula ons. To understand the idea behind the process just think keep in mind that on a 25mm scale the unity for the movement is an inch (∼25 mm); in other words, the unity of movement in the game is the same as the scale of the game. For models at a 6 mm scale the unity of movement is 6 mm. Nowadays Warhammer 40k is defined as ”28 mm”, but this is due to the slow increase in dimensions since the first Warhammer miniatures came out. Long story short, to make everything as precise as possible and in conformity with the actual 28 mm standards, we rescaled everything taking into account a 28 mm model.

Slightly less than an A3 paper sheet! The propor on is valid for cen meters, millimeters, inches, feet or whatever type of unit you prefer. If you don’t care about “small” approxima ons and want every measure to be as exact and round as possible, then assume that an inch in the Warhammer system is equal to 6 mm in the Pocket WH40K system. Every length/size can be obtained by dividing the classical dimension by 5. Not perfect, but does the trick.

Printable Meters and Templates

To rescale a classic Warhammer 40,000 game into his pocket version this is the conversion formula: PocketW40K size =

For most situa ons in a standard game the lengths and measurements needed are always the same (12”, 24” and so on...): to make things even simpler we made a printable page containing all the templates and meters you’ll need (see next page). The Reference Marks should measure exactly 1cm, or 1 inch, for all the other measures to be correct. T .

ClassicW40K size · 6 28

Or approximately: PocketW40K size = ClassicW40K size · 0.21 The calcula on is valid for any type of measurement, so that the dimensions of a gaming table

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RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM When prin ng make sure that all the page margins in the prin ng op ons are set to 0. If you s ll see some imperfec ons in the reference marks apply the appropriate enlargement in the prin ng op ons as described in the following table:

Many people would like to use a different rescaling system than the one used by Pocket Warhammer 40K. Examples can be summarized as follows: • ”Hey! Epic Armageddon is more or less 25% in size. I will just pretend that 1/4 of inch is one inch!” or

Measured Mark Enlargement Required 1.3 1.2 1.1 0.9 0.8 0.7

77 % 83 % 91 % 111 % 125 % 142 %

• ”Hey! Epic Armageddon is more or less 20% in size. I will just pretend that 1/5 of inch is one inch!” or even • ”Why use your pre-adjusted meters? I will just pretend that is one inch!”

Otherwise some trial and error should give you the correct prin ng dimensions.

There a few reasons as to why a player would prefer a custom system instead of prin ng the rescaled meters/templates. Regardless of the reasons involved, the use of a different system for Pocket Warhammer 40K DOES have an impact on the gameplay and game balance. Below, the step-by-step explana on.

Note: If you are interested in a detailed, geometry intensive explana on of rescaling factors, misconcep ons about them and other math-intensive trivia, the next secon “The Evil Math-Intensive Addendum” is what you need to read. If you don’t care about such pe y things, we suggest that you skip the sec on altogether.

Coherency When something is ”scaled-down”, coherency among the components must be retained. That is, the ra o between two objects in one system, must be the same in the scaled-down system as well. In the case of Warhammer 40K the ra o we considered is (arbitrarily) between the height of a space marine (28.0 mm) and “The Inch” (25.4 mm). The ra o for Warhammer 40K is 28 = 1.10 25.4 Now, whatever the rescaling system, the ra o between the two values must be the same, and

The Evil Math-Intensive Addendum Premise: • This sec on is only meant to provide insight in the mechanics underlying Pocket Warhammer 40K. If you only care about having fun, you can skip this page altogether. • Familiarity with high-school-level geometry is required.

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RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM this must be true for ALL the exis ng pairs of values. For the sake of simplicity here we only men on this pair, but other significant pairs are all those cases where a miniature-size parameter is compared with a non-miniature-size parameter (more on this later).

case the minimum measurement unit is the one from the printed sheet in this website: 5.55 mm. Space Marine height: 6 mm The Inch: 5.55mm Ra o:

A bad rescaling system

6 = 1.09 5.55

The ra o is nearly the same (a minimum discrepancy is expected due to prin ng errors). The rescaling is correct.

Let’s take the case of a system where 1 cm is assumed to be 1 inch for gaming purposes; that is: 1 cm = 1 inch The miniatures in use are Epic miniatures. The ra o between a space marine height (6 mm) and The Inch (10 mm) is as follows:

Why is coherency important? Coherency is fundamental to ensure that the interac ons between all the components of the game are the same as in the original size.

6 = 0.6 10 The ra o is FAR different from the desired 1.10. The scaling system is wrong.

Example: We assume the scenario where an Imperial unit is in cover behind a Rhino. The attacker is 4″ away from the Rhino, and moves 6″ around the Rhino in order to shoot to the Imperial unit. Let’s see what happens in all cases.

Pre y much in the same way, if one pretends to play with Warhammer 40K miniatures using the conversion 1 cm = 1 inch, the ra o goes like this: Marine height: 28.0mm

1 - Classic Warhammer 40K: how things

The Inch: 10.0 mm Ra o:

should work 28 = 2.8 10

• The star ng scenario. (Figure 1) • The a acker moves, but cannot get line of sight. (Figure 2)

Once again, the result is FAR off from 1.10, and the rescaling is wrong.

2 - Using 28 mm models, pretending that 1

A good rescaling system

cm = 1 inch We now consider the case where we want to use Epic miniatures in Pocket Warhammer. In this

• The star ng scenario. (Figure 3)

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RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM • The a acker moves, and can barely reach the edge of the Rhino. (Figure 4)

3 - Using Epic models, pretending that 1 cm = 1 inch • The star ng scenario. (Figure 5) • The a acker moves, and can easily get line of sight to the Imperial unit. (Figure 6) Figure 1

4 - Using Epic models, pretending that 5.55 mm = 1 inch (Pocket Warhammer system) • The star ng scenario. (Figure 7) • The a acker moves, but cannot get line of sight. Exactly as per classic Warhammer 40K. (Figure 8) At this point it should be clear that Pocket Warhammer can only be played with the rescaling system described in this document (page 8); all the other systems, simply put, are wrong. If you are s ll dubious, check below the most common cri cisms to the explana on you have just read.

Figure 2

Criticism 1 Your explana on is completely missing the point! You don’t see the bigger picture! Once you rescale everything, everything fits! Answer 1 This cri cisms is based on the assumpon that, once the table AND the meter AND the templates AND the deployment distances are scaled properly, the gameplay is the same, regardless of the scale

Figure 3

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RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM

Figure 4

Figure 6

Figure 5 used. This is only true if ALSO the miniatures are rescaled accordingly. Games Workshop however only produced 28 mm (classic 40K) or 6 mm miniatures (Pocket 40K). Since there are only two size available for the miniatures, Warhammer 40K can only be played using the scale associated to Classic 40K or Pocket 40K.

Figure 7

Criticism 2 In your explana on you define your ”Ra o” between ”a miniature-size parameter” and ”a non-miniature-size parameter”. Why? Answer 2 If you calculate the ra o between two miniature-size parameters, the result is al-

Figure 8

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RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM ways going to be coherent, because GW is doing a pre y good job at this. For example, in 28 mm the ra o between the space marine height (28 mm) and the Rhino length (110 mm) is 28/110 = 0.25. In 6 mm, the ra o between the height of a Space marine (6 mm) and the length of a Rhino (22mm) is 6/22 = 0.27. The same goes for non-miniature-size parameters. The only meaningful test to verify if a rescaling is correct is the Ra o “between a miniaturesize parameter and a non-miniature-size parameter”, or deriva ons thereof.

Answer 5 Maybe, but it will never be the same as vanilla 40K, it will probably be overcomplicated, and, above all, why do it when there are easier solu ons?

Criticism 3 Epic Armageddon uses 6 mm miniatures and no rescaling. Are you saying that Epic Armageddon is wrong?

A few weeks a er publishing this ar cle Mike, from the Bolter & Chainsword forums, decided to report the pro and cons faced by his group when using a wrong scaling system. Below, his very own words:

Criticism 6 The Inch! The Inch will ruin Christmas in the 41st millennium! Answer 6 Damn you! Chaos!

First-hand experience: The adventures of Mike

Answer 3 Epic Armageddon was originally designed to work with its scaling system (Rao 6/25.4 = 0.24), and is thus a properly func oning game. If one was to scale-down Epic Armageddon, then he/she would face exactly the same arguments, and should check that the “Ra o” is always 0.24 for any rescaling.

Played a few games with our 1 cm = 1” scale (which, amusingly, your rubbished only recently). In the name of not completely dashing my work (can you call it that?) against the rocks I shall say my pros and cons. Pros: Guns have range! The whole game had a much more ”real” feel. We also adapted rela vely quickly to everything being this range as well. Cons: Moving just feels... wrong. Everyone moves too fast. Also we encountered the problem that you guys pointed out; tanks don’t block much. Although we could put models 2cm apart, we had trouble adjus ng to that and everything ended up bunch up, leading to... SuperCons: Blasts. Kill. Everything. It was just imbalanced. No one could

Criticism 4 (1/4 inch = 1 inch) and (1/5 inch = 1 inch) seem like very good approxima ons. Is it fine to use them? Answer 4 Despite the appearances, both ra os are sensibly different from the correct conversion. We would suggest to use them only if you really can’t print the rescaled meters. (1/5 inch = 1 inch) is the best between the two. Criticism 5 If you tweak a bit the rules, even a different system can work fine.

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RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM really do the ”spacing out” bit right, and the blasts were huge. All in all, think we’ll try and use your system. I just printed off the rulers, will play test soon. –Mike– Note: Mike is also the owner of the Imperial Guard miniatures you can see in the gallery sec on of this document (page 114).

Conclusion: In the end, you have seen how an erroneous scale-down can affect the game, and why. You have also been provided with the tools necessary to avoid problems (page 8). You have seen the light. The choice is yours now.

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SET UP THE GAME

Set up the game Differentiate Models When we first introduced Pocket Warhammer to various forum communi es many people expressed one major concern, which went more or less like this: • ”How can I dis nguish models with different weapons?” or

Figure 9

• ”One Space Marine has a Boltgun, another one has a Flamer. How can I tell them apart if they’re so small?” • Etc. etc... This sec on is dedicated to the three different ways we conceived and tested to answer such ques ons. All are equally effec ve.

Figure 10

Method 1: converting With a bit of good will it’s possible to modify the standard-issue weapon even on a 6 mm model, not unlike one would do with 28 mm models. Below I show an example of a Space Marine with a standard Bolter. I want him to have a Mul Melta instead. 1) Take the Space Marine. (Figure 9) 2) With a precision knife, carve out the Bolter. Two or three notches in the right spots will do the job. Just be careful to keep the rest undamaged. (Figure 10)

Figure 11

17

SET UP THE GAME

Figure 12

Figure 15

Figure 13

Figure 16

Figure 14

Figure 17

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SET UP THE GAME 3) Take a very small ball of green stuff and place it in the hole, then adapt it and shape it a bit always using the same precision knife. I probably sculpted far too many details in this par cular case. (Figure 11) 4) Two small s cks of Plas card 0.5 mm thick make the barrels. (Figure 12) 5) Op onal: Mul -Melta comes with a big backpack. Shape a small sphere of green stuff on the back of the same Space Marine, as we did before with the gun. in this case you don’t even need to carve the model. (Figure 13)

Figure 18 used the very same solu on for his Space Wolves army and his Grey Knights army as well. (Figure 17)

6) Op onal: connect the backpack to the weapon using a very small green stuff tube. (Figure 14)

Obviously this method is not limited to Space Marine or shoulder pads in any way! As long as you can see the difference, you can do whatever you want.

7) Paint! Our miniature, fully equipped with Mul -Melta, is ready! (Figure 15) This is our method of choice. Be reassured that all the details are clearly visible, even on 6 mm models. Drax’s heavy weapons were all modified in this way. His Space Marine were further differen ated with method 2 to allow for mul ple combina ons. (Figure 16)

Method 3: Different base color Lastly, for the really lazy bunch of you, too bothered even by method 2 ”because the miniatures are too small!” you can resort to the most desperate method: pain ng different bases in different colors. A Space Marine with a Flamer can have a red base, a Bolter will have a black base, a Plasma gun a blue base, and so on and so on... (Figure 18)

Method 2: Painting differently For the more lazy of you, a very simple trick is to use a slightly different color scheme for groups of models. Before the game starts, just make sure that you and your opponent agree about which color is what.

There is absolutely no limit in how you can disnguish one model from another. Do whatever you feel is right, and be reassured that it will work fine!

In the previous picture (Figure 16) you can see an applica on of this method: pain ng in two different colors the shoulder pads. Chronos

And of course, you can combine all the methods explained above to have a huge number of possible combina ons!

19

SET UP THE GAME

Model Magnetization Adding magnets or weights to 28 mm miniatures is usually op onal, but this is not the case for 6 mm miniatures. Magnets are very important to avoid accidental movements on the board and are also very helpful to move miniatures for small distances dragging them. It’s important to , since they’re too strong, and collapse onto each other when models are arranged in units. Fridge magnets or adhesive magne c sheets are what you need. For a couple of easy solu ons, check out our Links (page 28).

Figure 19

In this sec on two quick ad simple tutorial on how to ready your miniatures for Pocket Warhammer are described.

Tutorial 1: 6 mm round magnetic base for infantry First off, get your hands on a magne c sheet. Once you have a good grip on it, the cheapest and fastest way to make 6 mm infantry bases for your infantry units is to use a punch hole.

Figure 20

Here’s how: 1. Take your magne c sheet.. (Figure 19) 2. ...and take a punch hole. (Figure 20) 3. Put the magne c sheet in the punch hole, possibly with the protec ve paper towards the ”blade”. Exactly not as shown in the picture. (Figure 21) Figure 21 4. Punch! (Figure 22)

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SET UP THE GAME

Figure 22

Figure 24

Figure 23 Figure 25

5. Your first 6 mm infantry base is ready. Repeat un l wrist failure occurs. (Figure 23) The diameter of the hole can vary between 5.5 mm and 6.5 mm, depending on the punch hole used. This means that almost any punch hole will do the job. Thanks to Chris for the brilliant idea!

Tutorial 2: General-purpose magnetic bases 1. Reach the fridge in your house. It’s usually located between you and the cool

Figure 26

21

SET UP THE GAME

Figure 27

Figure 28

Painting

food. Take away the decora ons with the thinnest magnet and the lowest value. (Figure 24)

Pain ng 6 mm miniatures can be quite different from pain ng 28 mm miniatures. Good guides on how to paint 6 mm models are easily available on the web. Below there is a small collecon of ps from our own experience, addressed to experienced painters and beginners as well. The intent is to help pain ng 6 mm infantry miniatures. Vehicles and big monsters don’t require par cular skills; the same guidelines for 28 mm miniature pain ng will apply to them as well.

2. Remove whatever is on top of the magnet and cut it into small pieces. The pieces should have as much surface as the base you want to magne ze. (Figure 25) 3. The magnets don’t have to be thick. It’s be er if they are much thinner than 1 mm, around 0.3-0.6 mm is a good thickness. If they prove too weak you can always make two layers. (Figure 26)

Use the smallest brush available to you. We use brushes in the range between 000 and 0 (also called 3/0 to 0), with 000 being the most versale, and 0 barely usable to apply wide hands of uniform color. Drybrush can be done with any brush of reasonable size, as long as the paint is applied only to the p of the brush in order to avoid excessive paint spread. We never use make use of an airbrush or any other ”fancy” tool.

4. Once the small magnets are ready, s ck them under the base of your miniatures. This picture is a bit old and we don’t put a base under vehicles anymore, but we glue the big magnet straight under the wheels. (Figure 27) 5. Remember to keep the biggest magnets for the scenery elements. They will probably need all the extensions available to their base to be gravity-proof. (Figure 28)

Washes are tremendously useful to show the details, but it can be extremely difficult to limit

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SET UP THE GAME a specific wash color to a very small area on the model. As a fast solu on to the problem, we simply expose all miniatures to a full black wash from the p of their heads to the bo om of the boots. Following is just a quick highligh ng of exposed areas, drybrushing and drawing details. Easy and effec ve!

all their previous paint and repainted without basecoat. Con nuous use of the models can soon turn out in corrosion of the paint. It’s especially important in this case to coat all of them with a thin layer of protec ve varnish. We don’t do it, but we don’t play very o en either.

A 6 mm miniature is quite tricky to hold steadily in the hand. It will work, but most of the paint will end up on your hands/gloves. While some of us are absolutely fine with it, some others may not like it. A simple solu on is to magneze your miniatures before pain ng, put them on top of a large piece of metal, and grab the metal instead. This may aid your work quite a lot. Pressure-sensi ve adhesive (Blu-Tack) works equally well, in case you don’t want to magne ze your model prior to pain ng.

Don’t be afraid of the apparently small size of the miniatures. Most of us started pain ng 28 mm miniatures, and found pain ng 6 mm miniatures just as fine, if not easier.

Basing and Base Size The miniatures of Warhammer 40K use various base size and shape, and the bases come provided in the box. Epic miniatures, or other 6 mm models, come already assembled and based, in case of infantry, or without base in case of vehicles. To get the right base size and shape for all your 6 mm models there are only two possible solu ons:

The amount of detail you can paint on a miniature really depends on your pain ng skills. The be er you are, the more detail can be drawn. Simple pain ng can achieve very solid results. Most of Alessar’s Orks were painted without par cular a en on to details due to their large numbers (page 125). Levian’s Eldar and Dark Eldar were painted with much more care (page 99 or 104). Both look absolutely fine when it comes to gaming.

Make your own bases. This is what we do most of the mes, because it’s a super cheap, immediate and flexible method to make all the bases. We start with some cardboard, plas card, magne c foil other similarly hard and thin material, we draw the base first, then we cut it. The thickness should be 1mm or less. For exact measurements one can use a drawing compass for round shapes, and with a bit of prac ce also oval ones. Once obtained the first ”template base”, all the others can be copied easily.

Color choice is personal, but before star ng you may want to consider choosing different color schemes to dis nguish units/special characters or other par cular models. More on this at page 17. Basecoat is op onal. Most infantry models are so small that with too many layers of paint details will begin to disappear. Several miniatures shown in this document were stripped off of

Buy ”custom cut” bases. In this way you will pay a bit more, but you can be 100% sure about the

23

SET UP THE GAME

Base Type Standard Infantry

28 mm Scale

6 mm Scale

25 mm round

Large Infantry

40 mm round

Monsters Flyers Bikes Clear flight stands small Clear flight stands large

60 mm round 90x120 mm oval 25x70 mm rounded rectangle 30 mm round 60 mm round

6 mm round 9 mm (more correct) or 10 mm (easier) round 13 mm round 20x26 mm oval 6x15 mm rounded rectangle 7 mm round 13 mm round

size, and you don’t have to do any manual labor. Some sellers provide magne c bases. For more informa on check our Link sec on (page 28). If you don’t find link suitable to you there are many other alterna ves, just look in your area for hobby stores, or on the internet.

with 6 mm bases, but need larger ones, cut a magne c base of appropriate size and shape, and glue the model on it with his own base. Total height: base (1mm) + magnet (1mm max.) • For all the other miniatures that come without base, but need one, glue the miniature to the custom made base, then put some magnets under it, so that the total height is again: base (1mm) + magnet (1mm max.)

Whatever method you choose, you’ll need to know the proper size of each base, converted in 6 mm scale. The table on this page can fix that. Base height is another very important aspect to consider. The most important thing to keep in mind is that all the bases should have the same height. Also, the thinner the be er. To achieve this in an easy way, just follow these guidelines (Figure 29):

If based miniatures are too high compared to non-based ones, like vehicles, line of sight can become quite tricky to evaluate. 2 mm Should be the very upper limit, but if you want to play correctly, than the overall base height should be between 1mm and 1.5mm. Achieving a base height below 1mm would be even be er, but would also require to take all the infantry miniatures off their own 6 mm base, which is very me consuming, and not really that necessary

• For infantry units with a 6 mm base, just put a standard magnet under their base so that the total height will be: base (1mm) + magnet (1mm max.) • For larger infantry, which come provided

Figure 29

24

SET UP THE GAME a er all. A note on approxima on: most of the conversion sizes shown in this page have been approximated. This is not extremely important for big bases (over 10mm in every size), but all the bases with at least one size of 10mm or less should be measured with precision. Remember that a difference of 1mm in base size, equals more or less to a difference of half a cen meter in 28 mm; it makes a big difference to infantry units!

Figure 30

The sec ons ends with a small reminder, taken directly from the 6th Edi on Rulebook: on page 3, bo om of the le column, there is a small paragraph about ”Models and Base Sizes”.This paragraph, in short, allows the gamers to use ”bases of appropriate size if needed”, without being strict on which size or shape one miniature does exactly need. We made extensive use of this ”rule” for all our Space marine Terminators: we are using 6 mm bases, even though it would be more appropriate a 10 mm base. Special thanks to L. Donaldson for poin ng out the issue of basing and base sizes.

Figure 31

Tables The gaming tables shown in this sec on were made using metallic whiteboards, lightly painted to get the proper color (Figures 30-32). When making your boards remember to use as less paint/fake terrain as possible, or the magnets will have problems s cking to the board. Just enough to give the color and make it a bit more rough will be perfect, and it may actually help against sliding. All the boards were made either using one or two A4 whiteboards.

Figure 32

25

PRACTICAL TIPS

Practical tips Play fast, play safe In this sec on there is a small collec on of praccal ps for playing a game of Pocket Warhammer 40.000. The ps come from our own experience. Understanding the scale: Rescaling the game may cause a bit of confusion to those players who are used to 28 mm. A good rule of thumb is that one standard infantry base diameter is equivalent to 1 inch (roughly the same as for 28 mm). This may come handy when quickly checking for unit coherency or during an assault.

mm games. It is o en the case that Epic miniatures are available in groups so numerous that it will be impossible to use them all in the same game. How to deal with this excessive amount of ny plas c/pewter guys? In this sec on are described a few solu ons that work well for us.

Move faster!: A large, metallic base for an enre infantry unit is a simple way to speed up movement, especially during the first turns of the game, when models move much more coherently as compared to the la er turns. Addionally, at any moment during the game, you can move your models away from the base, and take it away from the board. Making use of such big bases is a problem when dealing with the exact measurement of distances, but if your gaming group agrees, they can be very useful to hustle the game. Flat fridge magnets will not work, since they force the models in specific posi ons over the magnet. If you want to know more about this, you can check page 27. We don’t make use this trick during our games anymore.

The first and most common solu on is to re-sell or ”gi ” the extra models. The solu on is very prac cal, possibly will save you some money, and it will also increase the number of opponents for your pocket armies. Another common solu on, and the one we apply most o en, is to prepare an enormous variety of armies to play with friends, with an insane amount of different troops and vehicles. There will never be two iden cal games! The last solu on is even more intriguing than the first two: Use Pocket Warhammer miniatures to play Epic Armageddon!

Pocket 40K is Epic Armageddon

All the models used in Pocket are legal 6 mm miniatures for Epic Armageddon. The typical idea would be that of gluing the models onto

Pocket Warhammer makes extensive use of miniatures from Epic Armageddon or other 6

27

PRACTICAL TIPS regula ons. On top of that, the coin is also ferromagne c, meaning that Pocket miniatures s ck to it! The models we prepared for Pocket Warhammer are now perfectly adaptable also for Epic Armageddon, and viceversa. No glue required. The trick works also for non-euro coins as long as the size fits, and they’re compa ble with magnets. Most o en the coins are even cheaper and widely available than the plas c bases one may find in the shops! And of course, as you can see from the picture on the previous page, the stand can be decorated and s ll retains its magne c capabili es.

”stands”, which are 5-model bases for infantry, and play on a regular Warhammer table. The most common stands for Epic are either square or linear, but the manual is more flexible about the exact size and shape:

As if this was not enough, this technique comes very useful also to all those people who prefer to move their Warhammer 40K infantry units as a single block, instead of man-by-man. We usually don’t have any problems moving single infantry units, but anyone looking for a quick solu on to speed up the movement phase, is now fulfilled.

” ...The size of a stand and the number of models glued to it are le pre y much up to the player to decide within the following limita ons: A stand may be no more than 40mm and no less than 5mm across in any direc on. A stand must be at least 20mm across in one direc on (i.e., a 5mm by 5mm stand is not allowed, but a 5mm by 20mm stand would be okay). Stands represen ng infantry units must have at least three infantry models and may not have more than seven. Infantry mounted on bikes or horses must have between two and four models mounted on each base. Stands represen ng ar llery must have between one and two ar llery pieces and up to six crew models.”

Link In this sec on are listed some websites where is possible to find some good 6mm models that very closely resemble the Warhammer 40,000 ones. Other websites of general purpose are also included. All links can be clicked. • Infantry models from this producer can be used even unmodified to play Imperial Guard, Tau and Tyranids. Vehicles are also interes ng, but less adaptable. All the models are metallic: h p://www.darkrealmminiatures.co.uk/

Knowing the rules, we decided that an ideal stand for magne c Epic Armageddon miniatures is the 5 eurocent coin, which perfectly fits the

28

PRACTICAL TIPS • A small selec on of armored humans (either Space Marine or Chaos Space Marine) and a few tank suitable for Eldar vehicles: h p://www.microworldgames.com/

• For 3D modeling of simple miniatures we use the notorious free-so ware Blender. A bit hard to use in the beginning, but very powerful: h p://www.blender.org/

• THE Necron website. All the infantry you need is here, or is produced modding these models. There are also a few vehicles and a nice selec on of human models which can be employed as Imperial Guard: h p://www.exoduswars.com

• We also uploaded a short 10-minute videotutorial to learn all the basics you need to use Blender: h p://www.youtube.com/ • Once the computer model is complete, we prefer to print from Shapeways, but other services may be available in your area or country: h p://www.shapeways.com/

• Lots of different vehicles and a few armored units for Tau Ba lesuits. Many other 6 mm models, depending on your taste: h p://shop.groundzerogames.net/

• We uploaded a simple video to show some gameplay for Pocket WH40K. You may want to check it out to have a good idea of what a game looks like: h p://www.youtube.com/

• When looking for pre-made scenery this retailer is a good one, but we usually prefer to make our own scenery: h p://6mm.wargaming.info/

• The Pocket WH40K website: BEST WEBSITE EVER

• And for every other need you can always ask to: h p://www.ebay.com/ • Magnets. Only one link, but many others are available to those who search: h p://www.ebay.com/magne cadhesive-sheet • If you think that making your own bases can cause some errors in the measurements, this website will give you exactly what you need: h p://www.litko.net/BMaker/ • In some tutorials we men on unusual materials. This is the website from which we order most components. It is also a good source for many other tabletop accessories: h p://www.spielmaterial.de

29

TUTORIALS

Tutorials Tutorials were made by Levian, Alessar and Anthea.

Adeptus Custodes This tutorial is definitely unusual, and I did just for the fun of it. In the eternal compe on between ba le brothers is quite common to wonder about who is the strongest brother, or things like that. Everyone knows that the tac cal space marine is at the lowest of the scale. Right above there are the psychic marines, which are basically marine with psychic powers. But what next?

Figure 33

Well, somebody may say that the other end of the scale is, or was, the Emperor itself, but what is in-between? Probably the Adeptus Custodes, Emperor’s bodyguard and guardians of the Golden Throne. Figure 34

Let’s see how to make one with some plas card, green stuff, and a very steady hand. 1) Manly grab a Space Marine and rip apart his arms and Requiem. (Figure 33) 2) Make a small green stuff sausage, snake, or otherwise tubular shape. (Figure 34) 3) Cut a few mm of this tube to make the arm. Engrave a small line around the wrist. This will make the hand stand out be er. (Figure 35) 4) Add the arm the the model. Now use a small bit of green stuff to make the helmet look slightly taller. (Figure 36)

Figure 35

30

TUTORIALS

Figure 36 Figure 37 5) Use a very thin strip of green stuff to make the decora ve bristles on the helmet, then with a lot of a en on, make ny lines along the strip, to make it look more or less like a horse tail. (Figure 37-38) 6) Make the second arm like we did the first, and add to the model. (Figure 39) 7) Cut some plas card pieces as shown in the picture to build the halberd. Use plas card 0.25 mm thick for the blade and 0.5 mm thick for everything else. (Figure 40-41)

Figure 38

8) Put the halberd where it belongs. In the Marine hands. (Figure 42) 9) With a thin foil of green stuff make the mantle, paying a en on to the shoulderpads. The mantle should not cover them, but should start right below. (Figure 43) 10) Sculp ng is over! Time for the color. (Figure 44-45)

Figure 39

31

TUTORIALS

Figure 40

Figure 43

Figure 41

Figure 44

Figure 42

Figure 45

32

TUTORIALS

Catacomb Command Barge / Annihilation barge The tutorial will show you how to create a twofold Necron vehicle: the Command Barge / Annihila on Barge. To make two vehicles in one we will build the same chassis for both, then we will apply a magne c plate on top to shi between a commander module and a cannon module. The same method is also explained in the Rhino / Razorback tutorial (page 54).

Figure 46

1) For this tutorial we will need a plas c disc, cardboard or plas card 1 mm thick, green stuff and two 6 mm Praetorians. (Figure 46) 2) Cut away a slice of roughly 120° from a plasc disk. Take two Pariahs and cut away their blades. Glue them laying on the lower side of the disc sector. They will be the pilots. If you want to save up some space you can also cut away some pieces of the base and legs. (Figure 47) 3) As for the next step, I used 1 mm thick cardboard to make the tail of the vehicle, but plascard will suit be er, either one layer of 1 mm thick, or two layers of 0.5 mm thick plas card. Now comes the sculp ng part. Take your green stuff and shape all the other components. The be er you are at sculp ng, the nicer will be the final look. You can see the pieces required in the picture below. The rib cage comes from the WHFB Skeleton warriors sprue, and will be part of the Annihila on Barge cannon; if you don’t plan using the Annihila on Barge, you can skip on that component. (Figure 48)

Figure 47

4) A er drying all the components, I filed the surfaces to make them smoother and more

Figure 48

33

TUTORIALS

Figure 49

Figure 50

edgy. Then I glued all the components together, as shown in the picture, and I put a small piece of flat magnet on top of the vehicle. I also cut out the base for the vehicle from cardboard: 1.2 cm diameter, round. The whole complex was then mounted on top of the base and slightly lted to highlight the pilots. (Figure 49-50) 5) I then glued a small piece of metal under the modified rib cage (cannon, only for Annihila on Barge). (Figure 51) 6) Finally painted the miniature and I glued a small transparent green plas c piece in front of the rib cage, for the main cannon of the Annihila on barge. The green plas c was obtained from the 28 mm Necron Warrior Gauss Flayer. This mul -vehicle is finally complete. For the Command barge simply put your commander miniature on top of the magnet, or, if you have spare 6 mm Necron commanders, just use the upper halve of the miniature. (Figure 52-??)

Figure 51

Dark Eldar Raider In this tutorial we will see how to build a Dark Eldar Raider with plas card and a bit of green

Figure 52

34

TUTORIALS stuff. The abbrevia ons used are: PS50 = plas card 0.5 mm; PS25 = plas card 0.25 mm. 1) Before we start building it’s a good idea to take paper and pencil, and calculate the correct dimensions; a couple of simple drawings will help ge ng the right size too. When the planning part is over, we can use the blueprints to cut out the base using PS50. (Figure 53) 2) Let’s start with the first big pieces. Always using PS50, cut two of them. (Figure 54) Figure 53 3) Glue the sides as shown in the picture, then cut out the bridge and glue again. Always PS50. (Figure 55) 4) Now close the rear of the vehicle with a small rail, this me using PS25. Do the same for the rear-bo om wall. (Figure 56) 5) Now cut and glue with PS50 the two front sides, as shown in the picture. The new pieces should touch each other only on the very edge. (Figure 57) 6) Use a small PS25 triangle to close the p. (Figure 58)

Figure 54

7) Another small triangle will cons tute the floor for the front gunner. (Figure 59) 8) The vehicle is now in need of more volume: let’s use a slightly smaller PS50 base under the former to fix it. (Figure 60) 9) The sail can be made using a single piece of PS25, the masts are added later, using thin strips of PS25 for the ones on the sail, and PS50 for the main mast. The front spear was made with a thin triangle, and glued on a small rectangle. The complex was then glued on the front of the Raider. (Figure 61)

Figure 55

35

TUTORIALS

Figure 56

Figure 59

Figure 57

Figure 60

Figure 58

Figure 61

36

TUTORIALS

Figure 62 Figure 63 10) The next part is probably quite hard if you want to use the same amount of detail I used. I built the connec on between the mast and the bridge, and the respec ve support with PS25 small strips; you can see the result in the picture. I also cut a very small spear of PS50 and a ached it to the front to make the rostrum. (Figure 62) 11) Now it’s me to put the Raider on its stand, and glue various ”sharp extrusions”, to make a real Dark Eldar vehicle out of it. (Figure 63-64) 12) Add a few more ny bits to the spear, for the same reason. (Figure 65)

Figure 64

13) More details, skulls and spears using a combina on of plas card s cks and green stuff. The rostrum is also completed by gluing together three PS25 triangles. (Figure 66) 14) We also need rear engines, made of green stuff. (Figure 67) 15) And finally we can add the crew! I used three Eldar Guardians without base. (Figure 6869) Figure 65

The Dark Eldar Raider, with a bit of paint, is now complete! (Figure ??-??)

37

TUTORIALS

Figure 66

Figure 69

Figure 67

Figure 70

Figure 68

Figure 71

38

TUTORIALS

Destroyer Lord This super easy tutorial comes straight from the Tomb Worlds! In this guide we show how to assemble a full Necron Destroyer Lord! 1) Let’s start from a Canoptek Scarab taken from the Necron Warrior box of Warhammer 40K. (Figure 72) 2) Cut the head off a single scarab and file the cut for a smooth look. (Figure 73) Figure 72

3) Now the base. For an accurate rescaling the base size should be 12 mm in diameter (round), but I went for 10 mm in order to get a more consistent size with the scarab. The material is either plas card, hard cardboard or anything else. (Figure 74) 4) The body of the Necron Lord is an Edenite soldier from Steel Crown. Cut the miniature’s leg away and keep his lower torso, then file and glue on the Scarab. The pole for the flyer base is, a piece of transparent plas c, 4-5 mm high. (Figure 75)

Figure 73

When the sculp ng is finished, paint with the colors of the kings! I used a 50/50 mix of gold and silver as star ng point. Your Destroyer Lord is ready to take back his reign! For extra refinement you may want to add some details on the front, where there is the flat region, by sculp ng some metal plates with green stuff, or anything else suits you.

Doom Scythe The Necron Doom Scythe is both an impressive vehicle and a very easy one to build, as it will be

Figure 74

39

TUTORIALS

Figure 75

Figure 76

explained in this tutorial. Remember that plascard can a good subs tute to most materials. 1) Start by cu ng off a slice from a round disk of plas c. A er the base is ready, glue on it a Necron Lord (we bought it from Steel Crown) with the p of his halberd cut away. This model will be the pilot. (Figure 76) 2) Use green stuff to shape most of the vehicle’s body and the wings. For the lower weapons a couple of quivers from WHFB Skeletons will do, and s cking them to a single cube of green stuff will make it easier to a ach them onto the body and s cking the flying pole at the end of the tutorial. (Figure 77)

Figure 77

3) The spine was simply made with a piece of steel wire, properly carved in a few points to make it rough and look like a group of vertebrae. The overall structure was glued on a piece of sprue (the pole) and on a 15 mm cardboard disc (the base); plas card can be used in place of both. For a final refining, pa ent and careful filing was fundamental to give the Scythe a more edgy look. (Figure 78) 4) Pain ng, along with a piece of green transparent plas c from any 28 mm Necron box, makes

Figure 78

40

TUTORIALS

Figure 79

Figure 80

up for a lot of smaller details. (Figure 79)

Doomsday Ark This tutorial will show you how to obtain quickly and with very li le effort a good proxy of a Doomsday Ark. I think is important to highlight the fact that this tutorial, as some of my others, are mostly intended to get the miniature in the shortest me possible to be able to play it minutes a er deciding the army list, so the quality of the miniature is actually pre y simple and the final product resembles a Doomsday Ark more than it actually ”is” a Doomsday Ark.

Figure 81

1) I started by gluing together some plas c discs 20 mm in diameter and using some bits from the WHFB Khemri skeletons. (Figure 80) 2) To create some spacing between the plas c discs I used li le paper pieces. (Figure 81) 3) Arrow quivers were used as cannons on the sides, the p of a saber was glued on the front of the Ark. Half a Necron Lord was glued on the back of the ark, along with a standard 28 mm skeleton torso, to make the driver posi on. In

Figure 82

41

TUTORIALS

Figure 84

Figure 83

1) Star ng from nothing is pre y hard, and to help me I used some metal wire to shape the inial skeleton. Working at such small dimensions, this task provided itself fairly difficult, and sadly I don’t have pictures of it. I started sculp ng from the bo om: feet, legs, torso, etc... up to the head; instead of adding all the details from the beginning, I worked in layers, repea ng the bo om-up sculp ng some mes. (Figure 84)

the back to refine the overall structure I used some green stuff and thin cardboard (in lack of plas card). Finally the Ark was li ed on the base, roughly 1 cm in diameter. (Figure 82) 4) A er a (very) quick pain ng the Doomsday Ark is finally ready to face the enemy! (Figure 83)

2) I had lots of trouble with the arms, since the wire that supports them was already very thick, and I couldn’t add any more green stuff to it without giving the arms an dispropor onate look; for this miniature, the arms are simply painted, unshaped metal... Anyway, I kept working on it, making a small ”thing” of green stuff for the flame, and using a flat piece of plasc for the sword. (Figure 85)

Dark Eldar Mandrakes The Dark Eldar units incarnate exactly the type of warriors I prefer: agile, fast, deadly, and possibly nice looking. Among all, I prefer the Mandrakes: shrouded in mystery and maybe linked to the daemonic forces, feared even by their Dark Eldar fellows. Unfortunately there is nothing on the market in the 6 mm range similar to them... Anyway, armed with determina on, and pa ence, I tried and managed to sculpt them directly from green stuff. Here I show you how I achieved a unit of Dark Eldar Mandrakes! Be warned though that this is a pre y hard tutorial, and requires quite a deal of sculp ng skills and crea vity. Experience will give you both.

3) A er some me, and improved experience, I tried to make a second miniature, this me without using metal wire, and simply looking at the previous one as model. In this case I was able to shape properly the arms. Flame and weapon, once again, were added only later. (Figure 86)

42

TUTORIALS

Figure 85

Figure 88

Figure 86

Figure 89

Figure 87

Figure 90

43

TUTORIALS 4) S ll, this procedure takes A LOT of me and effort, if one wants to make many of them, so I had to figure out a way to make this process faster. And here is the solu on! (Figure 87)

Marks: Sick green-Sunburst yellow mixture Belt: Dark fleshtone (vallejo) Here you can see the actual dimensions. (Figure 90)

5) Using very few green stuff and the second miniature as model, I made a li le mold. In this way, I could replicate the basic structure of the Mandrake in ”no- me” (green stuff takes me to dry). A er the clone was ready, I could simply rearrange the arms and weapons every me, and get a very nice variety of miniatures! To avoid the green stuff of the mold from s cking to the miniature I first smeared the Mandrake with a li le cooking oil. Once the first half of the mold was ready, I covered this one with oil too, then applied the green stuff to make the second half of the mold. (Figure 88)

Necron Monolith In this tutorial we are going to see how to create a basic shape that resembles a Necron Monolith. The so ware used for this tutorial is Tinkercad, and the 3D prin ng service is Shapeways. You can find links to both in the Link sec on (page 28). The result of this tutorial is shown in figure 91)

6) This me to make the weapons I used the thinnest plas card available, instead of junk plas c. (Figure 89)

The minimum precision (resolu on) required for this model is 1 mm, meaning that any detail smaller than 1 mm is not going to be printed (or printed properly, for the ma er...).

And that’s it! There is really nothing more to it, except pain ng. The color scheme I used is this:

The dimensions of the final miniature should be approximately as follows: width at the base = 3.6 cm; height: 4.2 cm.

Basecoat: Black Skin: Shadow grey (drybrushed), then black wash Legs: Earth (vallejo), then earth-black mixture wash, then highlighted details with earth-skull white mixture Hair: Skull white, then black wash, then Skull white highlights Blade: Boltgun metal Flame: Sick green (vallejo), then wash Sick green-black mixture, then highlight using Sick green, then highlight Sunburst yellow

Figure 91

44

TUTORIALS Since Tinkercad is no longer available, we suggest to use Blender instead. More on this in the Link sec on at page 28. 1) Let’s start crea ng a pyramid with 3.6 cm as base length and rising it un l we get the appropriate slope (5 to 6 cm high). Create now an empty cube overlapping it with the pyramid 5 mm above the work plane. Select them both and group them to get our star ng block. (Figure 92) 2) Copy the block created, paint it red, and li it up at roughly 24 mm from the workplane. Turn upside down (180°) the lower base (yellow). Create a new pyramid (orange) and fit it’s base on the lower base, as shown in the picture, then increase it’s height un l you get a nice slope and the pyramid is inside the red block. (Figure 93)

Figure 92

3) Keep ”pulling up” the pyramid un l it’s sides nearly match the red block’s sides, then cut away the pyramid’s p (with an empty cube as we did in the first step), and group all the items together to get the body of the pyramid (see picture). (Figure 94)

Figure 93

4) Copy this en re block and using two empty cubes cut away the slope from two sides as in the picture (black block in the lower right area). Remember to keep this black piece on the side, as we’re going to need it also later. Shrink the black component to the dimension you prefer, then place it on top of the monolith’s body (gray block); copy the piece three mes and turn it every me to make the other three upper black corners. When placing the corners on top of the body do not match the edges, but place the black components 1mm inwards. Now that we have the four upper corners we can place a

Figure 94

45

TUTORIALS

Figure 95

Figure 96

green crystal on top of the Monolith. The crystal should be around 7-9 mm high. (Figure 95) 5) Using the black piece we le aside, copy it and cut only a thin slice of it (using two empty cubes). Tilt this slice of roughly 20° and pull it un l reaches the same height of Monolith + crystal. Now place two of these pieces and on a bit larger(twice the width). Tilt each of this pieces 5° in the back. Look at the picture to get it right. (Figure 96) 6) Using an empty cube (8 mm wide) carve the wall where the round portal will be placed; in it’s most shallow part (at the top) the carving should be 1 mm deep. Using a disk 1 mm thick and 8 mm in diameter create the portal by encasing the disk in the carving we just made; leave some space between the disk and the workplane. As last step, use four small parallelepiped (red) 3 mm wide and 1 mm high to make the guns at the four corners of the pyramid. (Figure 97)

Figure 97

7) Now, the Monolith looks finished, but if we present this simple blueprint to a prin ng service the price will be quite high, due to the amount of material needed. To cut down the

Figure 98

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TUTORIALS

Figure 100 Figure 99 price, just carve the inside of the monolith with a truncated square pyramid hole. (Figure 98) 8) We suggest to try and put more details, within the limita ons of the 3D printer. A lot more is possible with 3D modeling, and we encourage you to keep prac cing and trying. High quality miniatures can be easily produced. Also remember that your printed model price will be proporonal to the amount of material needed! Don’t make bulky blocks unless they are fundamental. (Figure 99)

Figure 101

Mycetic Spore Myce c spores don’t have an official miniature, so the following conversion is just our simple way to build one star ng with a very small amount of Tyranid bits. Any bit will fit. 1) Cut a 15 mm round base from plas card or thick cardboard. If you think that the miniature will be too heavy or big for the typical 0.6 mm magnet you can make the en re base out of a 1 mm thick magnet. This solu on is handy also for

Figure 102

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TUTORIALS

Figure 104 Figure 103 flying vehicles and other monstrous creatures. (Figure 100) 2) Glue on the base a plas c gem. Such gems can be found in most trinket shops, and most likely in any house. (Figure 101) 3) Using green stuff sculpt some basic organic stuff around the crystal. here you can see an extremely simple shell-like shield and some organic remains of the spore a er its opening. Make as more grooves, cracks and holes as possible, as they will help later when pain ng with inks/washes. Glue also the Tyranid bits you see more fit for the purpose. (Figure 102)

Figure 105 1) In the picture you can see the star ng materials: a 6 mm vehicle from Epic Armageddon, some Skaven shields, a broken 6 mm Ork with rokkit launcha, an orc’s skull from Warhammer Fantasy and some pieces of cardboard. (Figure 104)

4) The spore is complete, and it just needs some pain ng. Make sure that you use a wash that will make it look wounded and bleeding, like the red and black one I used here. (Figure 103)

I glued one shield in front of the vehicle, with the ork s cking out behind it, and one in the back, along with some addi onal bits of plas c. The ork is now a gunner! (Figure 105)

Ork Trukk Please note that this tutorial is older than the dinosaurs, and therefore its pictures look like crap.

Some cardboard was added in the end to make a more coherent chassis and hide smaller de-

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Figure 106

Figure 107

tails. The head of a Warhammer Fantasy ork was glued in front of the vehicle to show off who’s da boss! (Figure 106)

Razorwing In this tutorial we describe the full construc on of a 6 mm Dark Eldar Razorwing, using only plascard and green stuff. The abbrevia ons used are: PS50 = plas card 0.5 mm; PS25 = plas card 0.25 mm.

Figure 108

1) As usual for every full design, it’s a good idea to draw our model, in order to take vision of all its components and get the right dimensions. (Figure 107) 2) Cut the body of the Razorwing using PS50. Do not include the wings in this first shape because they are lted with respect to the body, and will require addi onal steps later on. (Figure 108) 3) We want to provide this flyer with some mass. Cut two PS50 stripes and glue them on top of the body, one on top of the other. (Figure 109)

Figure 109

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Figure 110

Figure 113

Figure 111

Figure 114

Figure 112

Figure 115

50

TUTORIALS 4) Once the bulk is ready, we want to shape the cockpit. Use smooth pieces of green stuff as shown in the picture. For this step I made the green stuff pieces directly on the vehicle. (Figure 110) 5) For the wings use PS50. Try to make them as similar as possible. Ideally, they should be exactly the same. (Figure 111) 6) in order to check the correct shape for the wings, just superimpose the body to them. Don’t glue them yet. (Figure 112)

Figure 116

7) Now we need to add even more mass to the body. Cut another PS50 strip and glue it on top of the previous two. The edges of this strip should be bent in order to fit between the ”spine” and the turbines. The main turbines and the smaller ones are made of green stuff. A tube, and a bit of carving. For the smaller ones I also used a small chip of PS50 to make the p of the turbine. It’s also about me we make a second layer of green stuff on the cockpit. The final look should be smooth as in the picture. A bit of carving for the details, of course. (Figure 113)

Figure 117

8) Another layer of green stuff on the cockpit! Now it should look like a single block. (Figure 114) 9) It’s about me we add the wings to the body. We want the wings to be lted symmetrically, so we’re not going to use glue, but green stuff. Two small pieces. (Figure 115) 10) Now s ck the wings underneath the body. In the picture you can also see some green stuff details I added to the turbines. I also used a very small amount of green stuff to smooth out a cor-

Figure 118

51

TUTORIALS ner or two of the plas card components. (Figure 116) 11) Keep an eye on the symmetry of the wings, un l the green stuff is properly solidified. Any means to suspend the model will help enormously here. (Figure 117) 12) Now that the wings are fixed, we can strengthen them with a bit of glue, and shape some green stuff on top, in order to make the connec on between the body and the wings less evident. (Figure 118)

Figure 119

13) Like before, symmetry is paramount. (Figure 119) 14) Build a long ”box-like” structure underneath the body, as shown in picture. It will give even more volume. (Figure 120) 15) Cut two iden cal ”blades” and add them on top of the two main turbines. Symmetrically, of course. (Figure 121) 16) And another blade on top of the main body. (Figure 122) Figure 120 17) The model is reasonably ok, but this me I wanted some advanced finishing: missiles! Create the holders under the wings using very small chips of PS50. (Figure 123) 18) For the missiles I used small plas c tubes with a highly explosive green stuff p. Full green stuff would work as well, of course. (Figure 124) 19) Load the weapons. With glue. (Figure 125) 20) Two PS50 strips will become the forward weapon array. (Figure 126) 21) More details, and the model is complete! (Figure 127)

Figure 121

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TUTORIALS

Figure 122

Figure 125

Figure 123

Figure 126

Figure 124

Figure 127

53

TUTORIALS

Figure 131

Figure 128

Once based and painted, the Razorwing should look like this. (Figure 128-131)

Rhino to Razorback and viceversa In this tutorial we explain a very common and handy conversion for Space Marine players: how to set up a Rhino to become a Razorback and back without effort! All we need is a li le green stuff, a very small magnet (fridge magnet, possibly), and a small piece of metal. And of course a 6 mm Rhino.

Figure 129

1) First, we need to build the main body of the weapon system of your choice for the Razorback. Remember to leave some space in the lower part of it, to add the metal later on. Keep in mind that you can also cut dried green stuff and use it as star ng material, instead of so one. Here for example I first made a cylinder of it, let it dry, and cut the two guns from it, easily glued on the weapon body. I also used a li le amount of plas card on the guns and improved the look of the heavy bolter on the front of the vehicle, but these are op onal minor improvements. (Figure 132).

Figure 130

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TUTORIALS

Figure 132

Figure 135

Figure 133

Figure 136

Figure 134

Figure 137

55

TUTORIALS 2) When you are sa sfied with your weapon design s ck the piece of metal available under the weapon system (I used pieces of very thin metal wire, the only thing at hand...). (Figure 133). 3) Remember to s ck a magnet on top of your Rhino of course! If at this point the look of the complex is too bulky for you, it might be useful some fla ening and filing of the upper surface of the Rhino. Honestly, we don’t think this should be necessary at all, and avoiding fla ening keeps the Rhino-Razorback a two-in-one vehicle. (Figure 134).

Figure 138

4) The conversion is now complete, and you can paint it as a whole. As you can see the weapon module can be detached or a ached at will to turn the Razorback into Rhino and back! (Figure 135-136). 5) It’s also perfectly stable even when turned upside down. (Figure 137). The same concept can be used to make pre y much all the box-like Space Marine vehicles. Figure 139

Screamers of Tzeench In this tutorial we show how to shape some Screamers of Tzeench. These miniatures were en rely constructed with green stuff, which is probably the best material to make them. To work the green stuff either a toothpick or bare hands were used; sculp ng tools make everything a lot easier though. 1) First of all you have to create the basic shape. It’s easier if you create a sketchy cone and then model the wings on each side. I used a GW Daemone e near them to compare their size: the

Figure 140

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Figure 142

Figure 141

Soulgrinder

Screamers are approximately 0.8 cm x 1.5 cm with tail, 0.8 X 1.0 cm without. (Figure 138)

1) For this conversion I started using components from the Khemri skeletons of WHFB. I used a skeleton’s head, a pair of horns, four spear ps (for the legs) and the black sprue used for bases. (Figure 142-143)

2) Let them dry then make the fangs (2-4 on each model). This is the difficult part; be paent, take your me, and if you are not content with the result then remove them and start again. With a li le prac ce they will be just fine. I then added a bit of sand on the surface to create some texture. (Figure 139)

2) The black sprue was cut diagonally at the ”knees” where the ps of the spears were glued to make the legs. The head was then a ached to the black sprue and the horns were put on top of it. Finally, for the arms, I opted for some WHFB dwarf miners weapons, to give it an unusual and ”dwarfish” look. (Figure 144)

3) Now it’s me for the eyes! You can simply skip this part and just paint them later, but I decided to make them with green stuff. Create ny balls and then put them on the top of the head pressing the edges with a toothpick to create a funny texture around the eyes and to s ck the eyes to the body. (Figure 140)

3) Finally, pain ng red and black fills up all the chaos theme I need to play the Soulgrinder! (Figure 145)

4) Finally I shaped a li le spine and I fixed a bit the tail. For the spine make a li le snake with green stuff, place it on top of the model then press the edges and li the middle with a toothpick un l you are sa sfied with the shape. This is my the final result. (Figure 141)

Stormraven Gunship Most recent Warhammer vehicles don’t have a 6 mm counterpart, and this is especially true for flying ones, with very few excep ons. The

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Figure 146

Figure 143

Stormraven is not one of such excep ons, and in this tutorial we will see how to make one. For this we will need the following: plas card 0.25 mm (PC25 from now on), plas card 0.5 mm (PC50 from now on), green stuff, glue, transparent plas c (for the pole), plas card 1 mm (oponal, I did not use it) (PC1 from now on) 1) We shall start on paper. With a Thunderhawk and some other models at hand, I scaled down the original measures of the Stormraven, which are approximately the following (Figure 146): length = 5 cm, wingspan = 5 cm, height at the front = 1.5 cm, height at the top sha = 2 cm.

Figure 144

2) Now that we have an idea of the size, we can copy the shape of the body on PC25, excluding the tail. (Figure 147) 3) Cut out the shape. Make two of them: one for each side. (Figure 148) 4) With an addi onal strip of PC25 glue the pieces together as in the picture, to get a box roughly 3cm long. (Figure 149) 5) Now it’s me to cut on PC50 the profiles that will go on the sides of the box. (Figure 150)

Figure 145

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Figure 147

Figure 150

Figure 148

Figure 151

Figure 149

Figure 152

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TUTORIALS 6) Make four of them and glue two on each side, to get an extrusion of 1mm per side. If you want you can use only one layer of PC1 instead, to save up me and efforts. (Figure 151) Also cut a rectangle of PC50 and glue it on top of the box. This will be the base of the cockpit. Add a few thin PC50 strips to the front. 7) Now we want to create the extrusions that will give the illusion of a dedicated space for the frontal landing gear, either with four PC50 pieces, or two PC1. (Figure 152)

Figure 153

8) The tail is very easy, and we can make it from two PC50 pieces (or one PC1), by cu ng a “fin”. Something like the one in the picture. (Figure 153) We are also going to prepare the forward weapons slots: glue a slightly raised thin strip of PC50, just in the lower part of the base of the cockpit (more visible in the next picture). 9) Let’s add some plas card strips as weapons, and some more details in the front. (Figure 154)

Figure 154

10) Here comes probably the hardest part of the tutorial: the wings. Using PC50 cut out four pieces for each wing. The shapes are shown in the picture. Assemble the wings separately from the body. The smaller piece will connect the wing with the body. (Figure 155) 11) Now glue the wings to the body, trying to keep symmetry as much as possible. The wings will fall off very easily, so be pa ent, stubborn, and generous with glue. Later on we will add the reactors, and the wings will be much more sturdy. (Figure 156)

Figure 155

12) Add the wing tail. (Figure 157)

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TUTORIALS 13) In the same way used for the frontal supports, build extrusions 1 mm thick for the rear supports. (two PC50 or one PC1 for each side). (Figure 158) Also shape four green stuff micro reactors and glue them on the front supports. 14) Let’s now build a box around the reactors using PC25. Also assemble and glue the front legs using small strips of PC50. (Figure 159) 15) Time to build the cockpit. Cut a small trapezium and glue it standing on the lower part of the cockpit base; I used this piece as a reference for the other cockpit parts. Cut a strip of plas card and bend it in mul ple points to shape the profile of the cockpit, in the same way as in the picture, then glue it and add also the side components. (Figure 160-161)

Figure 156

16) More weapons! This me we’re going to build the side arrays. Simply cut a small rectangle that will hold them, and many small strips. (Figure 162) 17) Glue. (Figure 163)

Figure 157

18) Now close the array building a PC25 box around the guns. (Figure 164) 19) Now glue two of such arrays inside the recesses on the sides. (Figure 165) 20) Using PC25 build a box that will be the top turret, then glue. (Figure 166) 21) For the rear legs we need some planning: first, draw each component we’ll need on the PC50, as in picture. (Figure 167) 22) Now cut them and glue them together, as in picture. (Figure 168)

Figure 158

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Figure 159

Figure 162

Figure 160

Figure 163

Figure 161

Figure 164

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TUTORIALS 23) Finally we can a ach the rear supports in the places we have prepared before. (Figure 169) 24) Enlarge the region between the main body and the tail with two proto-wings. To make them use two layers of PC50 or one of PC1. (Figure 170) 25) For the weapons on the turret I used green stuff to avoid making the small plas card boxes, and made the cannons with very small plas c pipes. Here anything else will do. (Figure 171)

Figure 165

26) Shape the two main reactors using two tubes of green stuff that will fit under the wings. Use a sharp pencil to produce the holes in the front and in the back. You can also use some plas card pieces to add more decora ons. (Figure 172) I also made two more side-reactors on the wings, using the same technique described in steps 13 and 14, and I added a thin PC25 frame around the cockpit, to make it stand out. 27) Now build the main air sha right behind the top turret, as any other box. Use only PC25. (Figure 173)

Figure 166

28) The Stormraven is now ready, and you can either keep adding more details and decoraons, or start pain ng straight away. (Figure 174-175) For the pole I used some transparent thin plasc, and for the base PC50. Many details for this Stormraven were simply painted, and the effect is just right! (Figure 176-??) I built and painted the en re miniature in 5 (five) days, and this is the first model en rely based on plas card I have made so far, so it’s naturally full

Figure 167

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Figure 168

Figure 171

Figure 169

Figure 172

Figure 170

Figure 173

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Figure 177

Figure 174

Figure 178 Figure 175

of small defects. To me, making this miniature was funny and some mes a bit stressful, but in the end I think it was worth it. I recommend to try this tutorial to anyone who likes to build his own models. A 6 mm Stormraven is Awesome!!

Talos Pain Engine 1) Star ng from a Space marine shoulder pad. Make some carvings or simple sculp ng with green stuff. (Figure 179) 2) Take an Ogre arm and remove all but the forearm. The forearm is going to be the upper part

Figure 176

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Figure 179

Figure 180

of the body. (Figure 180-181) 3) Glue together the two components. (Figure 182) 4) Refine with green stuff to make up for the other components in the lower part of the body. (Figure 183-184) 5) Take a Dark Elf head and remove everything with the excep on of the elm. This is going to be the base of the tail. (Figure 185-186) 6) What is le now to do is a very basic sculpting work to make for what is le of the body, arms, head, tail and so on... it is easier to sculpt the tail using some wire as support. All the fingers, spikes, blades etc were made using plas card 0.25 mm thick. A small piece of transparent plas c was employed for the flying pole. Remember that you can sculpt the single components, let them dry and then glue them together instead of sculp ng directly on the model. (Figure 187)

Figure 181

7) The Space marine shoulder pad was improved in the end with an addi onal shell of green stuff, not fundamental, but very nice looking. (Figure 188)

Figure 182

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Figure 186

Figure 183

Figure 187 Figure 184

Figure 185

Figure 188

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TUTORIALS Sculp ng tools were fundamental throughout the en re sculp ng process. The components used were bits of 28 mm units that I reckoned useful for this model, but any other bit can be employed easily. Space Marine, Ogre or Dark Elf are not strictly necessary, as long as something similar can be found.

Tau Battlesuit Figure 189 In this tutorial we are going to assemble an enre XV8 Crisis Ba lesuit for the Greater Good, using exclusively from Green Stuff: 1) Each single component of the Ba lesuit must be shaped individually. Use cau on and precision in this step to get the propor ons right. The body must be a cube-like piece with a little sphere on the top; the head-body complex shouldn’t be higher than 5-6 mm overall. Create two slim pieces of green stuff and let them dry, then use the cu er to shape the feet of the armor. All the other parts (legs, arms, etc.) can be made either using so green stuff, or shaping dry one with the cu er, as you prefer. Don’t stress yourself trying to sculpt impossible details. The most important components that dis nguish a Crisis Ba lesuit are the cube-like body, the antenna on one side of the head and, usually, a cube-like jet-pack on the back. After you are finished assembling all the Ba lesuit components, let them dry. (Figure 189)

Figure 190

2) When all the components are completely dried, carefully assemble the Ba lesuit with glue. Consider the serious possibility of using pliers in this step. You can use a hard cardboard or plas card circle as base. The standing

Figure 191

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TUTORIALS model should be 10-11 mm high at most; this size should be respected as closely as possible, since a few millimeters more will make of this Ba lesuit an outstanding presence on the battlefield. The plas c piece that you can see on the le in the picture will become the jet pack of the Ba lesuit (a er some filing). (Figure 190) 3) Keep shaping and adding components to the model, un l you think it looks right. In this case I added a weapon system on his right arm, a bigger weapon system on his le side, and a square block on his chest to increase the ”Crisis”overall aspect of the miniature. (Figure 191)

Figure 192

Whenever you feel sa sfied with your crea on, go for the colors!

Tervigon 1) Cut a 13 mm base out of plas card or thick cardboard. From a mix of bits find the following components (or similar): tyranid ranged weapon(s), the one from the termagant is perfect; blades, swords or small talons (in this case Skaven knives); Lizardmen legs or equally Xenoslooking limbs. (Figure 192)

Figure 193

2) Using green stuff sculpt the creature’s torso, which is nothing more than a pre y simple ball of green stuff adapted to the other component. A ach to the lower part of the torso the tyranid weapon’s ”pouch” to make the breeding sack. A ach the legs, and glue the block to the base. (Figure 193) 3) Cut the hilt from the swords and glue the blades to the tyranid arms and hands taken from the ranged weapon. What you should obtain

Figure 194

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TUTORIALS are the massive and very prominent claws. If you are worried that the talons are out of the base you can turn them upwards in a leaping pose. balance issues are going to be compensated by the magnet under the base. (Figure 194) 4)For the head you can either use a lizardmen head or the remaining bits from the tyranid weapon. In this case I used the bits, and sculpted with green stuff the missing part of the face. (Figure 195)

Figure 195

5) For the final scales on top of the claws I used very small round balls/discs of green stuff and put them in a line as shown in the picture, on the upper side of the blades. (Figure 196-197) Just one of the many possible ways to make a Tyranid Tervigon.

Trygon In this tutorial we’ll see how to create a 6 mm Tyranid’s Trygon star ng from an old Xenomorph (new Reaper) model, and some bits of Green Stuff.

Figure 196

1) For this conversion we will use a cu er and toothpicks or sculp ng tools. The materials required are green stuff and a Xenomorph model. Some wire will come handy to improve the model’s stability while modeling. (Figure 198) 2) As you can see, the future Trygon is too short right now. It’s just two mes the height of the poor Space Marine. We’re going to build a longer green stuff body for the Tyranid. (Figure 199)

Figure 197

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Figure 198

Figure 201

Figure 199

Figure 202

Figure 200

Figure 203

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TUTORIALS 3) First, cut away the lowest sec on of the Xenomorph body with the cu er. (Figure 200) 4) To make the base just cut a simple oval from hard cardboard or plas card with the major axis of 2.7 cm and the minor axis of 2.0 cm. Cut a 2 cm-long piece of wire and cover it with a serpent-shaped piece of green stuff. You may want to use at least 2 cm of wire, to make the Trygon look impressive. Remember: the longer is the Trygon, the longer is the wire! A er covering the wire with green stuff, glue it to the Tyranid’s body, and glue the p of the tail at its end. (Figure 201-202)

Figure 204

5) Now, as you can see in the picture, the Tyranid has the right dimension (roughly 2.5 cm in height). Be careful not to make it longer than 3 cm, or it’ll look really enormous! (Figure 203) 6) At this point we need to add some extra claws. Cut away the arms from another Xenomorph model, or make some new ones from green stuff. Use much cau on when using the cu er; I know from my own experience that it can be really painful when used improperly. (Figure 204205)

Figure 205

7) It’s me to glue the arms. Help yourself with addi onal green stuff to fill the gaps. Remember! The Trygon has six arms, like all Tyranids! (Figure 206) 8) Glue some small magnets under the base of the model un l you’re sure that they will hold the weight of the model properly before moving on to the following step. (Figure 207) 9) Now it comes the hardest part: the posterior carapace. For this you’ll need a layer of prehardened green stuff. Cut some small triangular pieces out of it, the scales, and glue each of

Figure 206

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Figure 207

Figure 210

Figure 208

Figure 211

Figure 209

Figure 212

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Figure 213

Figure 214

them on the back of Trygon, star ng from the lowest scale un l you reach the preexis ng line of scales. Try to scale them for greater looks. (Figure 208-209) 10) The last piece, the uppermost scale, should have a ”V”-like shape instead of a triangular one, to seamlessly melt with the last of the preexisting scales. (Figure 210) 11) The Trygon has also an extra pair of fangs on the sides of the mouth. To make them take the pieces required from a Xenomorph model, or simply use some more green stuff. To improve the precision consider using some pliers. (Figure 211-212)

Figure 215

12) Complete the Trygon with the addi on of some side spikes, made out of green stuff, modeled in the shape of very thin needles. Use much care when gluing these spikes due to their diminu ve size, and consider using pliers here as well. (Figure 213-214) 13) The sculp ng of you 6 mm Trygon is now complete, and you only need to paint it before you can field it against some puny li le beings!. (Figure 215-??)

Figure 216

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F.A.Q.

F.A.Q.

Q: Ok, no WHFB, but what about a larger scale for Pocket? Something between 10 and 15mm?

Q: What is Pocket Warhammer 40K? A: That, would be awesome. The right compromise between size and detail! Sadly, there is no way to make WH40K easily in such scale. Some people have managed to make one or two armies, but they were completely proxed and definitely not reproducible given the low availability of the miniatures they used. To them all our admira on. Those who want an easier alterna ve should s ck to 6 mm.

A: A completely unofficial conversion of Warhammer 40K. Instead of 28 mm miniatures, it uses cheaper and more abundant 6 mm miniatures in combina on with a smaller table. Q: My 6 mm miniatures are glued on stands. Can I s ll use them? A: If you are using second-hand miniatures it is likely that the person before you used superglue. Many of our miniatures were bought in such condi ons. Get a pair of scissors, cut away the stand from the single miniatures, and you’ll be soon ready to go. If you also want to strip any previous paint with brush and chemicals, make sure you do it before cu ng away the stand.

Q: Hey! I know of some people who did this before of you! A: We are not the first, that is true. But we have started an en re website based on the idea, so we’re 10.000 mes more badass than anyone else. Seriously now. If you, or someone you know, did something similar to this, you can contact us to share your crea ons or basically anything else. We really like to include everyone’s works!

Q: Can I skip on metallic board and magnets? A: No. If you don’t use them, the game will be unplayable. We warned you.

Q: How do you dis nguish between models with different equipment, especially Imperial Guard infantry?

Q: This Pocket 40K is AWESOME! Can you do the same for Warhammer Fantasy (WHFB)? A: The most similar models to play a smaller scale of WHFB are the miniatures from Warmaster, another Specialist Game. Sadly, they are twice as big compared to Epic miniatures (10mm scale), and the game surface is s ll very big. There are many other companies selling 6 mm fantasy miniatures that you can adapt. We don’t think it’s worth the effort, and we like 40K more. But maybe in the future...

A: The answer can be long enough to write an en re ar cle, which is what we did at page 17. Also remember that ”6 mm” is not as small as it may sound. Most details are well visible since the game is played si ng at the table, usually within 50 cm from your eyes. Q: Can you send me your computer 3D blueprints?

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F.A.Q. A: No. Not at all.

> Necron > Tau. Tyranids, Ba le Sisters and Dark Eldar should be started only by people who want to make their en re army without buying a single miniature.

Q: How do you move miniatures with precision? A: With a bit of prac ce, and magnets. Not really much to say here. The introductory video shows everything you need to know (page 28). We had no issues with movement.

Q: The smallest box on sale has too many miniatures. Where can I find fewer miniatures for sale? A: There is no precise answer to this. We usually don’t have a problems buying 100 Space Marine, because we are a group of players which orders miniatures together, then shares. Either do as we do, look for second-hand miniatures, or store the extra in case someone wants to join your group. Extra miniatures are also a fantasc present to prompt people into the vicious circle of wargaming! Playing Epic Armageddon some mes can also be entertaining (page ).

Q: Would another conversion factor be O.K.? A: Scaling to a different factor than the one we report, while maintaining 6 mm miniatures, will affect the gameplay in a quite drama c way. A very detailed ar cle about this is available at page . In short, with our conversion you can rest assured that no change in gameplay will occur as it would with any other scaling factor. Q: I’d like to start, but there are no other players. Solu ons?

Q: I used magnets, but some of my miniatures keep falling and moving. What’s wrong?

A: Brainwashing sounds like a good idea. If it doesn’t produce posi ve results, you can try proposing Pocket to Warhammer veterans, which may like the idea of trying something different, or to newcomers, which may like the idea of a cheaper start. Most of the other gamers usually prefer 28 mm.

A: Fridge magnets and the like are not high quality, uniform magnets, and some mes they are not as strong as one would expect. Try with another piece from the same sheet, cover as much miniature’s basesurface as possible, or buy your magnets from a different producer (sugges ons in the Link sec on on page ). For no reason you should ever use rare earth magnets! Also don’t wet your miniatures, don’t feed them a er midnight, and never expose them to sunlight.

Q: I want to play Pocket! Which army would you recommend to start with? A: If you are familiar with 6 mm miniatures and modeling, anything that suits your gameplay should be ok. If you’re not, then we recommend to start with an army having the least amount of conversions required. From the easiest to the hardest: Space marine > Orks > Imperial Guard> Eldar > Chaos

Q: What about all the fantas c details of 28 mm miniatures?

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F.A.Q. A: Nothing forbids you to have 28 mm miniatures (too). We present 6 mm as an alterna ve to 28 mm, not as a subs tute, even though everything ever produced for 40K can be replaced by its 6 mm clone. We do collect 28 mm miniatures because we like some of them, but when it comes to play, Pocket is our game of choice. Q: Do you have the support of GW? A: No. This is a completely unofficial project. Some people look at us with a mix of admira on and pity, thinking that we are going to be shut down somewhere in the future. If you are among those people than you be er store this PDF with care, along with all the useful informa on on our website. Anyway, we’re doing our best not to harm GW, and live happily together. Actually, if Warhammer was crack, Pocket would be its gateway drug...

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Gallery Black Templars

The Emperor’s Champion finally joins his army, a er all the adequate landing protocols have been strictly followed.

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On a sunny day, the peaceful and cold wastes of a rock lost in space are disturbed by the sudden landing of the Black Templars.

The backup for the infantry is quickly deployed, and soon the less impervious areas are seized under Marine control.

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The planet is declared safe and free from Xenos!

Quick Black Templar Bikes patrol the regions surrounding the landing sites.

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The crew manning a Predator blasts some mountains, to keep the rust away from the cannon.

On a planet covered with ice wastes, every place is a good place to park a Rhino.

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Blood Angels

A Blood Angel unit with Rhino on a patrol mission among ancient ruins.

A Razorback unit providing cover for the quick deployment of a small combat Squad.

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The Sergeant takes posi on for a clear visual.

The unit has found traces of Eldar.

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Ranks are taken, in case of an ambush.

The first predator tank to reach the ba lefield. An impressive sight!

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Tac cal Squad marching without fear in open ground.

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Battle Sisters This sec on is s ll empty. Anyone can submit pictures of his miniatures. First comes, first served.

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Chaos Daemons This sec on is s ll empty. Anyone can submit pictures of his miniatures. First comes, first served.

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Chaos Space Marine

A unit of Plague Marines is exploring the ruins of an old imperial city.

Khorne Berzerkers swarming in the ruins, following the orders of their leader.

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Chaos Raptors in search of enemies from the atop a massive wall.

A Chaos Dreadnought, and his le arm.

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Land Raiders, having some fun with the Emperor.

Noise Marines, walking in the quiet gardens of a desecrated cathedral.

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Chaos Terminators, always arriving last.

Leaders. Smalltalk during lunch break.

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Chaos Conven on 2012.

Chaos cul sts, throwing a wild party around a massive Daemon.

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Pocket Berzerkers for the Pocket God!

Recent studies have shown that three Chaos Marine out of nine live on the edge.

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Chaos Terminators. Don’t be misled by their mean looks: they have very tender and passionate heart.

Standard Bearer. Poser of the posers.

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Noise Berzerkers dancing with The Tentacle.

Warpsmith and grazing Chaos Predator next to a quite sorry Emperor statue.

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When it comes to tuning, Chaos is always unmatched! Rhino, Vindicator and Standard bearer.

Chaos Marine Sorcerer followed by a Defiler with a dis nct taste for dwarven ar facts.

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Dark Eldar

A dreadful Archon, backed up by Incubi.

The quick Venom skimmer dashes though ruins with unnatural maneuverability.

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Kabalite Warriors are assigned to patrol the more defensible loca ons.

The Raider provides a solid transport and support for the ground units. As well as an efficient weapon pla orm during offense.

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Tiresome march of a small patrol of Kabalite Warriors.

As darkness approaches, darker creatures appear...

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A Razorwing casts its fearsome shadow on the ba lefield.

The Talos Pain Engine relessly watches the perimeter, during the approaching night.

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Wyches jumping out of cover and into the ac on!

The bulky Grotesque stands alone in the vast plains of this Dark Eldar planet.

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Eldar

Arlequine’s and Troupe Master’s drama c and acroba c poses.

The Avatar of Khaine is back, and he’s not happy with his friends.

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Autarchs escort a brand new wave serpent to the front lines.

Dark Reapers have been fishing, and today it was a hell of a good day! Red herrings for everyone!

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Dire Avengers prac ce their posing for the parade of tomorrow.

The Eldar Farseer spends some me reading an Imperial road sign.

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Eldar Guardians are, not surprisingly, le home with a heavy weapon pla orm, defending some apparently precious crystals.

Eldar jetbikes, looking cool in the parking lot.

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Troupe Master, atop a roof in Gotham city.

For the last issue of Wings and Engines the Eldar really wanted to show off!

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The Farseer’s personal bodyguard. Wraithguard. Just in case some humans decide to show up.

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Grey Knights

Strike squad, joined by an acroba c Jus car for the occasion.

Behind the stage, the set used for the pictures.

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Cotaez beside heavy support.

Purga on Squad, having a friendly chat and a barbecue on the shore of a lake.

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A dreadnought makes his entrance, not missing the chance to destroy a tree...

Interceptor squad during a peaceful patrol. And Jus car, screaming all the me.

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Refreshing sight of a Land Raider. Good old firepower.

Librarian with halberd, riding into ba le! Riding onto Rhinos!

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Imperial Guard (by Captain Mike)

Three Leman Russ (Russes? Russs? Russians?)

Guardsmen in desert camouflage.

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Guardsmen, and a li le funny toy...

Marauder Bombers. Because ground forces like to be grinded.

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Ogryns in a (quite rare) disciplined forma on.

The Imperial Guard is very strict about discipline. Only the Commanders can take drama c stances.

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Oil and cigars. The way to go!

The army is on the move.

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Swarming the plains, assimila ng the planets. Imperial Guard, The Pe y Devourer.

Toy story 4 - Heavy Machineguns.

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Thunderbolt Fighters. Fight air with air.

Valkyrie. The most expedi ous transport to death since 39.876.

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Rise and shine, Imperial Guard!

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Necron

The Doomsday Ark is ready for ba le.

The Tomb World awakes, and presents to the world his Immortals!

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A necron army arises from the sands...

A Night Schyte is deploying Immortals to prepare an ambush.

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A C’tan shard joins the ranks, when summoned by the Phaheron.

Praetorians, slowly strolling around their town.

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Necron Deathmarks in the night.

Remains of a Titan from Ancient mes are saved from me and brought back to the ba lefield.

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Orks

Despite the mean propaganda in the Imperium, we know that Ork Nobs are very social, friendly and peaceful creatures.

Some mes, ge ng your hands on a parking lot it’s just more difficult than you’d expect. In those situa ons, crea vity can help!

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When le without their lead, Ork Mobz are known to enjoy a walk in the wastelands.

Ork buggies and Ba le Wagons.

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Some mes even Ork bikes get stuck in traffic jams...

Some people prefer the old school steeds, instead of the high-tech bikes. Even though they look like Orcs on boars, they behave exactly as Orks on motorbikes!

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A portrait of a Dok, Leader Kommando and Weirdboy (from the le ).

Dakkajet! The true Boss of the skies!

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Blitza-Bommer, dripping coolness.

Burna-Bommer, fat and yellow as usual.

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Ork Flyers roaming the skies!

Koptas are taken down by bad weather. Exactly as expected.

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An old family picture of Big Mek and his son, Killa Kan.

In high school they all made fun of him because he was fat. Now he’s back, and he keeps them in line.

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As cover picture for the next issue of ”Orks and Motors” we think this: Shock Gun, some sunbathing, half-naked, Lootas Mek and a Looted Land Raider.

No Ork was harmed during the filming process. Here is a group picture of our cast.

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A sunny Sunday is the perfect day to eat the asphalt with other centaurs.

Ork Nobs always hang out surrounded by a full pack of orks.

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Ork Nobz, taking a break in a Trukk rest sta on.

Warboss is always one step ahead every other Ork when it comes to good taste in clothings. Oh, and also on the ba lefield...

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Da Waaagh! ’z here!

GALLERY

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Space Wolves

Skyclaw Assault pack marching through millenia old ruins, not caring much for the archeological value of such buildings.

Space Wolves’ HQ storms the Dry Ice Wastes.

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Thunderwolves scou ng the more impervious lands.

For the less impervious regions, the Heavy support will provide the adequate power to smooth the landscape.

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A Wolf Guard pack, landing very close to what could have been its icy, sorry end.

A Scout Pack is overwatching the surroundings from an elevated posi on, and analyzing lifeforms.

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Assault Bike and Land Speeder.

The Swi claws are a pack best employed in the inland regions of this harsh planet

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Predator tank and a Long Fangs pack defend the high and impervious cliffs facing the nitrogen sea

Grey Hunters and Rhinos reach the end of the world, and take a break.

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Tau This sec on is s ll empty. Anyone can submit pictures of his miniatures. First comes, first served.

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Tyranids

The Hive Tyrant leads his Tyranid swarm to bring destruc on on this dry planet.

Li le Tyranids grow old.

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More starving Tyranids.

Tyranid Gargoyles are only a small detachment, exploring the grounds before the main swarm.

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Genestealers defending a breeding pool.

Hormagants patrolling ruins.

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The Trygon wanders in the ruins. It needs no support.

The leading warriors of the swarm stand close to the living pool in this doomed night.

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Morning Reveille!

At sunrise, the Gant patrols are switched, and Termagants appear on the field.

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Pekel

The crude dividers show that the middle of the board - a normal 4’ x 6’ equivalent - is being used for this game. The two armies are 1500 points each. The board is a picture frame backed with flexible magne c sheet, sprayed over with textured spray paint and then painted.

All the buildings and scenery are magne zed. I could pick that ruin up and turn it upside down and not a single model would move.

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The gaming table is ready, and it looks terrific!

Eldar (including an immobilized Falcon) occupy a building made from a Cheerios box. For terrain pieces, everything is coated in magne c paint.

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Scouts appearing behind some Warp Spiders. Note that the Eldar models o en are incomplete.

Space Marine entrenched in a ruined sturdy building.

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Terminators led by a Librarian prepare to annihilate a unit of Wraithguard.

Most of the Space Marine units, and an element of scenery. On the upper-right side a standard Space Marine.

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Here’s some Adeptus Mechanicus themed terrain made by my brother from Cityfight and Zoid parts.

Eldar miniatures from GW during the pain ng.

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Drax

Eldar army.

Fire Dragons. Too many?

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Death Jesters/Dark Reapers.

Farseer, Warlocks and other HQ.

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Wraithguard

Autarchs and Swooping Hawks.

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Jetbikes!

More Jetbikes, in case of need.

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Guardians/Dire avengers.

Guardians/Dire avengers with heavy weapon pla orm.

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Harlequin troupe.

Howling Banshees.

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Striking Scorpions (never enough).

More Guardians/Dire avengers with pla orms!

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Wraithlords. War Walkers when needed.

Vyper Jetbikes.

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Wave Serpents! Made by Levian using old Grav Tank.

Grav Tanks from the past.

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Eldar army.

Assault Marines.

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Vanguard Veteran Squad.

Sternguard Veteran Squad.

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Marine Tac cal Squad.

Marine Tac cal Squad.

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Ultramarine and Space Wolves Tac cal Squads.

Marine Tac cal Squad.

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Bike Squad with leader.

Ultramarine tac cal Squad, and two Wolves tac cal Squad.

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Land Speeders! Two more unfinished/to fix..

Ultramarine and Space Wolves Captains, and many Rhino.

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Ultramarine Land Raiders and Space Wolves Land Speeders. And Two more SW tac cal Squads.

Legion of the Damned, with personal Rhino.

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The Marine Armies.

Unfinished Chaos Army. I have to remove the stand, magne ze, etc. etc...

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They shall know no fear!

GALLERY

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Stingray

Full Space Wolves Army.

Yes, guns are efficient and cool, but there’s something about an heterogenous horde of savage melee fighters that will never be matched.

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Long Fangs, front-view.

Long Fangs, side-view.

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Disco Wolves on the catwalk. Njal Storm caller, Ulrik the slayer & Ragnar Blackmane

Full Blood Angels army.

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Grey Hunters.

Terminators have a tendency to find a small nice in every Marine army.

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That’s what I call a really cool concept for a band. Tech Marine & The Servitors.

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THE TEAM

Contacts

The team

If you any sugges ons, comments or requests you can contact any member of our team via email at: [email protected]

Alessar

or you can like us on Facebook, share on Google+, or subscribe to our weekly posts on our homepage on The Pocket Warhammer Website.

Chronos

Levian

Dirinel Drax Mike S ngray Pekel Corax Anthea Luke Plus all those people who contribute providing sugges ons, comments, feedback or otherwise just play Pocket WH40K. This game exists only because so many of you play it!

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DISCLAIMER

Disclaimer This document is completely unofficial and in no way endorsed by Games Workshop Limited. Adeptus Astartes, Blood Angels, Bloodquest, Cadian, Catachan, the Chaos devices, Cityfight, the Chaos logo, Citadel, Citadel Device, Codex, Daemonhunters, Dark Angels, Dark Eldar, ’Eavy Metal, Eldar, Eldar symbol devices, Eye of Terror, Fire Warrior, Forge World, Games Workshop, Games Workshop logo, Genestealer, Golden Demon, Gorkamorka, Great Unclean One, Inquisitor, the Inquisitor logo, the Inquisitor device, Inquisitor:Conspiracies, Keeper of Secrets, Khorne, Kroot, Lord of Change, Necron, Nurgle, Ork, Ork skull devices, Sisters of Ba le, Slaanesh, Space Hulk, Space Marine, Space Marine chapters, Space Marine chapter logos, Tau, the Tau caste designaons, Tyranid, Tyrannid, Tzeentch, Ultramarines, Warhammer, Warhammer 40k Device, White Dwarf, the White Dwarf logo, and all associated marks, names, races, race insignia, characters, vehicles, loca ons, units, illustra ons and images from the Warhammer 40,000 universe are either ®, TM and/or © Copyright Games Workshop Ltd 2000-2012, variably registered in the UK and other countries around the world. Used without permission. No challenge to their status intended. All Rights Reserved to their respec ve owners. Miniatures © Games Workshop 2003. All rights reserved. Used without permission.

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