Parisian Ladies Tailoring System [PDF]

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X^. SKIRTS, DRESSES,, lllitid AU Outer Garmenl'

Class.

Book_

.^Zl^p.

CoffyrightN" COPYRFCKT DEPOSIT.

INCE

the establishment of our firm 50 years

and environs, as shown us the most generous patronage. We have long ago, the ladies of Chicago

I

fc^Ji^

'

II

well as our mail customers, have

desired to

One

show our appreciation

of this fact.

of our hardest task has been to find a suit-

able offering

welcome and

useful to

all.

After entering into the merits of

we have

many

proposi-

decided upon the free distribution to our customers of "The Parisian Ladies' Teuloring System," which enables every one to take measurements, make designs, cut her own patterns, tions,

fit

and make

at last

herself

for

or for

her family,

or for

professional purposes. Suits, Waists, Dresses, or any

Outer Garment,

in

accordance with the prevailing

styles.

our sincere hope that this book will be welinvaluable in every household, and that it will be a guide and boon to the great masses of our It

is

come and

patrons.

The

Excelsior

Dry Goods Company.

PARISIAN LADIES' TAILORING SYSTEM or

fi

Designing, Pattern Cutting, Fitting and Making

Waists, Skirts, Dresses, Suits

And

All Outer Garments

A MEANS OF SELF EDUCATION AND A GUIDE FOR EDUCATIONAL INSTRUCTION IN TRADE SCHOOLS AND DOMESTIC SCIENCE INSTITUTIONS ith

Over 100 Explanatory Drawings Charts

22x28

in Text, including

Four Supplementary

inches of Full Size Patterns and Grading

Instruction for Professional Designers

oui'

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

sleeve

the under sleeve.

pattern without

The heavy

construct ion

liiu^s.

35

A

is

the

an inch in width, uuirk the to 2 inches, as before mentioned, must be lines, f of

allowance for the seams. An extra 1-i allowed at the bottom for inside finishing. Fig.

36.

Possible Changes in the Fashions

The fashions may lujdergo changes, but we must always use the fundamental pattern for the basis for any sleeve, as arms will always have tliL^ same shape, regardless of changes of styles. The length of shoulder may be longer or shorter, but this need not cause any difficulty, as the patterns may easily be changed to accommodate the style in vogue. Our next figures show how these changes are to be made.

36

PARISIAN

LADIES'

Fie.

TAILORING SYSTEM

37

In Fig. 37, A,

Fig.

38

we

upper part of

see the

the front, side, and back of our funda-

mental pattern marked lines

we

see

in

In

full lines.

how

to

make

a

change for a narrower front and back shoulder.

Always bear

in

mind that the

auxil-

iary slioulder lines are the same, and that

only the cut-out of the armliole has been enlarged, thereby forming a larger armhole

and

"We readily see that size of the

narrower

leaving

arm

we must

ball,

in

shoulders. increase the

order to be able

to ease our sleeve properly into the

arm

cut-out of the waist. Fig.

38

shows

us

the

sleeve pattern in full lines

and the newly

formed curve of the armball lines.

fundamental

in

PARISIAN

LADIES'

Fig.

y

TAILORING SYSTEM

39

37

PARISIAN

38

The Fundamental

Now

tliat

Pattern the Basis of Designing and

making

are ready to study the

waists

Making

Pattern

mastered the drafting of our fundamental pattern we

liavc

\v(>

TAILORING SYSl EM

LADIES'

of changes

necessary

form patterns of

to

shirt-

hlouses.

aiiil

We

shall also

.see

how garments may

one-piece sleeve can be drafted from our previotis pattern, and cuffs witli all the multitudinous variations

Of course only

few problems

a

we

are of such a nature that

due

making

shall give tlie

and

collars

these

l)ut

our readers can

feel assitred that the intelligence of

cope with further problems through the study of

We

how

the

changing fashions can be made.

to

construction are illusti'ated.

in

how

he lengthened or shortened,

tliese.

of the sliirtwaist pattern

place in our

first

illus-

trations.

The shows us

Fig. 41

Shirtwaist In

Forms

Different

Its

a shirtwaist pattern,

making

the

of which will be fully

explained.

be advisable, however, for the pupils to study Figs. 42. 43. 44,

A\(.iuld

It

together with 41.

we have

In Fig. 42

pattern (in

along

lines)

A— B.

and

A—B

of center front waist line measures

d on

A—

Note that the dart

('.

a

position

two

we

—

line

f

We

e

—

g,

as

left in the pattern,

position

e

—— f

falls

the point

from

but as they are

shown

From

e.

f

measure

one (1) unit part of the

g. ecpials to

in

lines.

fundamental pattern, the extra allowance falling from d

is

c.

front of our shirt-

three (3) tmit parts of our scale of width larger than that of our

is

From d

point

an angle that

readily understand that the waist measure of the

waist pattern

we note

shoulder

the

b.

at such

ignore them.

prolonged, a distance to

and connect

scale of width,

Place the fundamental

unit parts of our scale of width

('2)

Our fundamental pattern now takes c

that

A— C

have been

lines

of no value in our present problem,

along the

A — C.

perpendictdar to

such

in

in

sleeves.

the neck cut-out along

a,

made

order to familiarize themselves Avith the changes

in

and upper and lower

front, back, side,

to

C measure two

our waist

draw u

inches and

This extra length

line.

may

—

v.

to e

and

f to g.

parallel to d

—

g.

which

be gathered for peplum above

or below skirt.

From draw

point

the

L

a little to the right of the middle of the neck rounding a

line line b

—F.

L

— —F p

in

y,

to

from the shoulder to a point lower down

shows a deeper cut-out. b

—

form the V-shaped neck, shown

—

The triangle L lines

—— ci

show how

y,

lapels

the

lines

in

couhl be

made L

bending instead of cutting the pattern along the respective lines

—

front

b,

The

in Fig. 41.

line,

and triangle if

—

desired,

y and b

by

—F.

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

PARISIAN

40

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

A —B

Fig. 43 shows our periH-udieular

A — C.

to

mental liaek pattern so that the neck rounding should our center back at the waist

a position that k,

line,

at

lie

and

i

two

falls

our

place

"VVe

funda-

such

in

h,

unit parts of

(2)

our scale of width from n.

We and

next place the side piece to the back so that the two pieces join at m,

of the side piece falls at a distance of one

1

width from

j.

From

and from

to

s

This extra allowance

X

made

oiu'

is

unit part of our scale of width.

(1)

play

to give freer

parallel to the waist line

z.

t

—n

tions to the pattern in

In Fig. 43

we

is

shown

to

side,

as

garment. The

tight-fitting

of the fundamental pattern,

Our fundamental pattern

the front.

and

arndiole

the

for

and gives an allowance of two inches

line, in

is

to r

t

must be more roomy than the ordinary

the shirtwaist line

unit part of our scale of

(1)

shown

is

in

correspond to the changes lines

and the addi-

a one-piece pattern

by joining the

in

lines.

we have made

notice that

The new pattern

three

(3)

nnit

parts of our scale of width wider than the original, as explained above.

If,

how-

we

ever,

fundamental pattern.

of our

and back

side

we

the back in one piece

Avish

is

along the length-

lay our pattern just

wise fold of our material.

In Fig. 44 Ave see the upper and under sleeve

our armhole Ave haA-e

Fig. 43 has been

in

added

]

nmde

inch to each of our seams in order to

except along the shoulders, front, and back, where

Along the front the

4

Ave

make an

:|

extra albiA\anee

lines

alloAved.

is

inches

Ij

as

that

changed armhole.

tliis

fit

inch of

But

lines.

in

in

addition

to

sleeves

as

inch already allowed, to be used as facing.

We Ave

in

larger Ave shoAv

shoAV the construction of collars,

Avill

cufifs,

and

(litf oft'

a curve along

tlie

inches in the figure

"i.

waist

line,

measure one-half around the waist

marking the point

e.

Along

tlu'

hip line from

at g onedialf of the hip measure (20 inches in the figure).

The point

c,

line, as this line is

eciiiidistant

invariably

and

marks the starting point

from

a,

lialf

way between

e,

tlie

of our side

center front and the center

back.

As we

We

liave licfore mentioned, the skirt

use for our model here

lati'r

show how

this

may

a

widths vary with fashion's dictates.

bottom width of two and one-half (24) yards, and

be increased or diminished.

From C which marks

the length of the skirt at the center front, measure

along a slight curve a distance of 22} inches, or one-half the width of the half skirt,

marking the point

n.

From n

in this

way

rei^eat this

measurement

to

i.

PARISIAN

LADIES-

TAILORING SYSTEM

53

— TAILORING SYSTEM

PARISIAN LADIES'

54 Connect line

with

e

and

n,

and center

and

e

our

liack of

g-

witli

Tliese lines give us respectively the side

i.

Along

skirt.

the

si

These yokes

front.

back of the

we

In Fig. 66

to

A

made mark

the point just

are

cut

if

oft'

be

will

skirt,

same circular

see the

A we

Fi-om

('.

circular

is

smoothly to the body.

but giving us the same results

have the perpendicular

One

lines.

Furtlicr necessary explanation relative to the

given in the discussion following Fig. 66.

We

an inch for these

of

§

the bottom curve,

skirt.

Fig. 62.

64,

P'ig.

with the waist

in

at the top

Along the center

inches).

'-'iGl

compared.

measure four inches

C

at

equal

a distance

to the length of the front.

Next from

half around the waist measure lines,

As same

the width of this skirt

c,

measure on

o,

make tills

is

On

a

line

identical

c.

two

a

—

e

with

o.

-witJi

side,

that

of Fig.

of back

our method

65.

and lower sweep

a perpeiidii'ular 2 inches to

the

is

Connect a and

c.

between

tlie

back at the waist

line,

possible

to is

by

r

and

s

marking the length of

at the

made

line.

If the skirt

make

the skirt narrower.

is

shown meeting the waist

l)ottoin

in

the hip

line on(>-half of

made exactly

l:-!

(^) of an inch at

e.

inches,

fit.

in

Tims we

by the cut-out of one

line. o,

c,

n,

we

see

of the skirt, meeting one an-

This triangle shows the part to be eliminated parts, in order to insure a perfect

necessary

In Fig. 66 below

side

two parts these

From

is

it

and the heavy

dotted

line

e

line.

in in the center

either side of the

small triangle

is

V

lines nuirked

is

Connect

small cut-out from the straiglit length of the back.

indicated as a

other at the hip

of

is

this

with a curve to form the waist

As the body curves

the

a distance equal to one-

e

as previously given.

through

to

off at

(13 inches in the illustration).

and mark the center of

Fr(un point

it

mark

procedure to secure propi'r length of

of

e,

A —B

slant along

a. in a

(1)

to

an

lines indicate

the

incli

waist

inch at

c,

line,

a

on either side

case the skirt

find that our

how

is

made

in

curved waist

and of one-half

PARISIAN Both of our

illustrations 64

and 66 could be cut

cut in one piece, the lengtli of front cut in

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

is

placed on

the

in

fold

55

one or two pieces. of

the

nuiterial.

If If

two pieces, both front and back are placed on the fold and as a result

the two bias pieces meet at the sides.

Care must be taken

to

tape both of these

seams, to prevent sagging of the material. Fig.

H

shows

a belt in the

shapes are marked in

and

heavy

lines.

lines.

Two

yokes

in

different

These are formed ou the same

principle as Fig. 66.

Fig.

sFig.66

pointed

PARISIAN

56

The Cutting "We

In order to be able to divide

])lrated skirt.

we must

]ii-oportions

Gored and Pleated

of the

decide upon

widths of our gores in proper

tlie

width of the skirt ai'ound

tlie

Pig. 67 sliows a four-gorinl skirt measuring

around

two and

bottom.

tlu=

one-ludf

they are cut from nuiterial

Tlie gores slunv

Ixittom.

tin'

Skirt

thv desiguiny and cutting of the gored skirt, and the

lU'iiioustratc

iK.'xt

TAILORING SYSTEM

LADIES'

.')()

inches wide.

This skirt consists of a front piece cut on the fold, a side part, and

The same

part cut on the fold.

We from our

mention again that

in cutting the goods.

Fi'om

apart.

6SA shows

Fig,

A— C

along liue

measure

s

ofl the

A—C

From half of

A—B,

mark points

e

—r—

s,

three-fourth (f ) of an inch

length of the front along

A— C

to

this

line

From

the

measure

J

('.

C"

unvisure 16 inches to

bottdiii

tlir

from measurenu'nts taken

perpendicular to

dotted auxiliary line (36 inches in the illustration). of an inch to

back

gathered.

skirt patterns are cut

all

a

and are without seam or hem allowance, which must be added

figure,

From A

sliglitly

is

yards

(2i)

on the auxiliary

i

-width of the front gore,

as

Tins gives us the

liue.

center front

tlie

is

on the

laid

fold of the material.

A— B

Along

From

i

—o

curved

along

B shows m — n

and li inches

and from g to

fi-om

to

H

are

make

From

waist

liiu'

h to

(^'oiuiect

h

—k a

ferent gores

4.^

AVe notice that fi'om u.

We

the rounding u E,

Connect o and

o.

Connect

s

E

The waist

i.

with a

line s

to
otli

six gores.

in

that the material

measurements from

anil

a,

skirt

a

is

fact

thi'

too narrow to permit cutting a wider pattern without

The perpendicular

oidy difference being

skirt, the

etit'ect

whereas

skirt,

in

each of

inclu'S in

we must remember).

This

gives us a total of SO inches, about 2j yards for the bottom of the skirt.

At

the top of Fig. 70. A, from

inches, in C,

from x

to z 6 inches,

A

and

— u — E. g — u — E. m — u — E. x — u — E. Adding the

width.

front

to

o

is

4 inches,

in T). fi'om h to

z^u — E and

and side waist

h

B

10 inches.

—u —

t

line nn_-asurements

m

from

B,

in

g 6

to

The cut-outs

are each 1] inches in

we

get 9 inches.

This

plus the back gore gathered to four inches, gives IS inches for half of the waist

measurement. Further

we

Ave

observe the

from

lines

foIloAv sliould Ml- desire to leave out the

w

to

gathering

in

k,

pattern

in

the

D.

back, and

which

make

a

fitting back.

Fig. 71

shows

a

plaited skirt.

There plaits can be made closer together

or farther apart as desired. Fig. 72

from

A

to

B

gives a pattern of a plain plaited skirt.

front fold forms a box plait, with the plaits on both sides facing Fig. 73

shows

l)ox

plaits wiiich can

lie

jilaced

closei'

oi-

The center back.

tin-

farther

apart

as

desired.

In the next few lessons

we

will

show how

to

diangc

waist pattern, to one witli seams running to the shouldiT botli

We

will also

endeavor

to

ing different skirts and waists.

show how

to

make

our

fundamental

in front

a variety of dresses

and back.

by combin-

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

59

From- J^ -To -t- Same as From E-To-C-

Cente „

Length of Back

on Fold

D3

60

PARISIAN

LADIES'

TAILORING SYSTEM

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