MVC Monday Morning Pattern [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

Monday Morning Dress Pattern ®

For 18” American Girl Dolls SUPPLIES NEEDED: 1/2 yard fabric 1/3 yard lining fabric scraps for contrast scraps for bow one 7-9” invisible zipper Matching thread “All her friends teased her, but she couldn’t shake it: Monday was her favorite day of the week. It stood for so many new beginnings, a fresh perspective, another chance to try it again. And when she needed an extra boost of confidence, she knew just which frock to reach for...” Our Monday Morning dress is a study in classic elegance, with a twist. It’s familiar, A-line silhouette and pleated skirt are standbys in traditional dress design. But the asymmetrical detailing (like the contrasting shoulder panel and the oversized Melody Valerie bow) keeps it freshwell-known yet new, just like so many Mondays.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

This dress can be made from a variety of fabrics. We suggest using linen, silk noil, lightweight raw silk, rayon or cotton sateen with a rayon, silk or poly blend lining in a color that compliments the fashion fabric. 1.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS Cut out or trace the pattern pieces provided. Identify the pieces needed for the main fabric, contrast, bow and lining. *Note: the lining pieces need to be flipped over in order to match their fabric counterpart. The fabric should be cut single layer due to the assymetrical design. The Skirt and Skirt Lining do not have pattern pieces. They should be cut in rectangles following the measurements given. The pleating guide has two strips which need to be taped together. This paper pattern is to be placed on fabric skirt piece for marking pleat placement. The armscye binding does not have a pattern piece. The 1” x 6” bias strips can be cut from fashion fabric or lining. Following the grainlines indicated on pattern, place pieces on fabric and pin. Cut out all of the pieces. MAIN FABRIC

CONTRAST FABRIC

BOW FABRIC

LINING

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

2.

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS 1.

BODICE 1. With RIGHT sides together, pin contrast to Bodice Front, matching notches. Straight stitch using 1/4” seam allowances. Press seam open, clipping bodice front seam allowance to stitching so seam allowances lie flat.

2. 2. With RIGHT sides together, pin Lower Bodice Back to contrast, matching notches. Straight stitch. Stitch Left Back to Front at shoulder. Press seam open.

3. 3. With RIGHT sides together, pin Front to Back at side seam. Stitch. Clip as needed. Press seam open.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

3.

4. 4. REPEAT steps 1-3 to construct lining, being sure to flip all pieces over so you end up with a mirror image of the bodice.

5. 5. With RIGHT sides together, pin lining to bodice along neck edge. Straight stitch using 1/4” seam allowance.

6. 6. Clip neck edge at corners and curves, trimming out excess bulk at point where contrast meets bodice front. NOTE: The seam will be stronger if you offset your clipping on the two layers.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

4.

7. 7. With RIGHT side up, spread the bodice flat, with seam allowances under the lining side. UNDERSTITCH along neck edge on lining side, pulling the seam open with your fingers as you go. Fold lining to inside and press neck edge.

*Completed understitching is pictured left.

Sleeve and Armscye Bindings 8.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

8. Press sleeve in half, WRONG sides together, matching notches on raw edges.

5.

9. 9. Pin-baste lining to bodice around right armscye. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve into right armscye, being sure bottom edge of sleeve lines up with edges of contrast fabric. Stitch, including lining in seam.

Bindings 10.

10. With WRONG sides together, fold and press bias strip in half lengthwise. Unfold binding and stitch short ends together, forming a loop. Press seam open. Repress binding in half, enclosing seam allowances.

11.

11. Working from inside of garment, pin binding to inside of right (sleeved) armscye. The bindings folded edge should be facing toward the neckline, with the raw edges aligned with the raw edges of the sleeve. Straight stitch using a short (2.0) stitch length. Sew slowly and readjust as needed to avoid puckers. Check to be sure all layers are sewn correctly. Trim seam allowance to 1/8”. Clip into remaining seam allowance as needed to ensure a smooth turn.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

6.

12. 12. Pin remaining binding to OUTSIDE of remaining armscye, catching lining and aligning raw edges of bodice, lining and binding. Stitch and clip as above.

13. 13. Turn bindings over raw edges to inside of bodice; pin bodice to lining. Using a whip stitch, hand sew binding in place. (Stitches should not show on right side.)

*Inside view of bodice

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

7.

*Outside view of bodice

SKIRT 14.

14. With RIGHT sides together, sew skirt to skirt lining along long lower edge. Press seam to set, then press seam allowances open.

15. 15. With WRONG sides together, fold skirt in half lengthwise, matching upper raw edges. *About 1” of the outer skirt fabric should fold up to the lining side along the lower edge. Baste upper edge; press folded crease in hem edge.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

8.

16.

16. Using Pleat Strip, pin-mark foldlines and placement lines. Work outward from Center Front, one side at a time, to ensure you have about 1” of seam allowance left on each end of skirt. In photo, white pins mark the foldlines and green pins mark the placement lines. A gold pin is at Center Front.

17. 17. Working from the RIGHT side of skirt, fold skirt along short edge, at all foldlines (white pins). Press each crease. *DO NOT press crease in Center Front!!

*Finished creases are pictured left.

*Close-up of pressed creases.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

9.

18. 18. Working from one end of the skirt, bring each foldline crease to its nearest placement line (green pin), forming box pleats. Press crease from WRONG side, being careful not to unpress anything.

19. 19. Continue to form box pleats until you reach other end.

*Fully pleated skirt is pictured left.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

10.

20. 20. Pin pleats in place, then secure with machine basting or hand-cross stitches. *(Hand cross stitches will help keep the folds from sliding apart during stitching, which can result in gap-toothed box pleats.)

*Close-up view of hand cross stitches.

21. 21. With RIGHT sides together, pin skirt to bodice, matching center fronts and pleat to side seam, keeping lining free. *NOTE: If you do not wish to hand-sew the lining in place, include lining in this seam. Zig zag or overlock raw edge to finish seam. Baste lining to bodice along center back seam allowance. Zig zag or overlock the raw edges together and continue with the zipper.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

11.

*Completed waist seam is shown left.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER 22. 22. Lay zipper WRONG side up, with the zipper open. Press zipper coils flat with a medium iron. This will make the zipper easier to sew. *NOTE: a contrasting zipper is used for viewing ease; for a truly invisible experience, choose a zipper with a tape that matches your fashion fabric.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

12.

23. 23. Place garment RIGHT side up. Place zipper face down on center back seam allowance. The zipper coils will be facing toward garment. Pin zipper down center back, stopping 2” from bottom edge.

24. 24. Using a zipper foot, straight stitch down seam close to coils. Sew slowly to prevent fabric from puckering. Stop when you reach end point and backstitch. *NOTE: If using an invisible zipper foot on your machine, lower the foot down onto the zipper. Make sure that the zipper coil is in the left groove of the foot.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

13.

25.

25. Close zipper and pin mark the waistline and end stitching point. Open up zipper and pin zipper to garment, matching important pin marks. Make sure RIGHT side of fabric is facing up and WRONG side of zipper is facing up. (Zipper coil should be facing toward garment)

26. 26. Baste. Close zipper and check match. Adjust as needed. Sew zipper permanently as you did the other side, again stopping 2” from bottom edge. NOTE: If using an invisible zipper foot, the zipper coil is in the RIGHT grove of the foot. Pull the zipper closed and lightly press before continuing.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

14.

27. 27. With RIGHT sides together, pin lower opening together, keeping zipper tail free. Sew up opening at 1” seam allowance, stopping just past zipper stitching. NOTE: This seam may veer a little (1/8”) away from zipper stitching towards garment.

28.

28. Hand sew a thread bar tack across zipper coils 1/2” past zipper stitching. Cut off excess zipper tape and finish with a touch of seam sealant.

29. 29. Cut off excess tape at top of zipper and finish with a touch of seam sealant. Be sure not to cut off the top zipper stop.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

15.

30. 30. Zig zag or overlock raw skirt edges; press under 1/4” and topstitch to finish.

31. 31. Turn bottom edges under, forming points, and hand-whip into place.

32. 32. Pin lining to bodice, starting at strategic intervals (top of zipper, matching seams at waistline), folding under seam allowance as you go.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

16.

33. 33. Hand whip-stitch lining to zipper tape and along waistline.

34. 34. With RIGHT sides together, pin Bow Body in half lengthwise. Straight stitch using 1/4” seam allownace. Press seam open and flip right side out. Press so that seam is in center of one side.

35. 35. Overlap short ends of strip 1/4” and stitch together to form loop. Center seam on the back of loop and lightly press flat.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

17.

36. 36. With RIGHT sides together, fold Bow Tails in half lengthwise. Pin.

Stitch, leaving about 1” open in the center.

Clip, turn right side out, and press.

37.

37. Stack Bow Body on top of Bow Tails, slightly off-setting Bow Body to the left. Sew running stitch as pictured, and pull tight. Wrap several times with thread to secure before tying off.

38.

38. Press under both long raw edges of Bow Wrap 3/8”.

39. Stitch one end to back of bow, then wrap around bow body.

40.

41.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

40. Clip off excess, turn under raw edge and hand-whip securely in place.

41. Tack Bow Tails into position as shown, to ensure a graceful fall.

18.

42. 42. Hand tack Bow to dress, centering over Side Front pleat.

Finished Monday Morning dress!

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

19

SUMMARY OF INSTRUCTIONS BODICE 1. With RIGHT sides together, pin contrast to Bodice Front, matching notches. Straight stitch using 1/4” seam allowances. Press seam open, clipping bodice front seam allowance to stitching so seam allowances lie flat. 2. With RIGHT sides together, pin Lower Bodice Back to contrast, matching notches. Straight stitch. Stitch Left Back to Front at shoulder. Press seam open. 3. With RIGHT sides together, pin Front to Back at side seam. Stitch. Clip as needed. Press seam open. 4. REPEAT steps 1-3 to construct lining, being sure to flip all pieces over so you end up with a mirror image of the bodice. 5. With RIGHT sides together, pin lining to bodice along neck edge. Straight stitch using 1/4” seam allowance. 6. Clip neck edge at corners and curves, trimming out excess bulk at point where contrast meets bodice front. NOTE: The seam will be stronger if you offset your clipping on the two layers. 7. With RIGHT side up, spread the bodice flat, with seam allowances under the lining side. UNDERSTITCH along neck edge on lining side, pulling the seam open with your fingers as you go. Fold lining to inside and press neck edge.

Sleeve 8. Press sleeve in half, WRONG sides together, matching notches on raw edges. 9. Pin-baste lining to bodice around right armscye. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve into right armscye, being sure bottom edge of sleeve lines up with edges of contrast fabric. Stitch, including lining in seam.

Armscye Bindings 10. With WRONG sides together, fold and press bias strip in half lengthwise. Unfold binding and stitch short ends together, forming a loop. Press seam open. Repress binding in half, enclosing seam allowances. 11. Working from inside of garment, pin binding to inside of right (sleeved) armscye. The bindings folded edge should be facing toward the neckline, with the raw edges aligned with the raw edges of the sleeve. Straight stitch using a short (2.0) stitch length. Sew slowly and readjust as needed to avoid puckers. Check to be sure all layers are sewn correctly. Trim seam allowance to 1/8”. Clip into remaining seam allowance as needed to ensure a smooth turn. 12. Pin remaining binding to OUTSIDE of remaining armscye, catching lining and aligning raw edges of bodice, lining and binding. Stitch and clip as above. 13. Turn bindings over raw edges to inside of bodice; pin bodice to lining. Using a whip stitch, hand sew binding in place. (Stitches should not show on right side.) Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

20.

SKIRT 14. With RIGHT sides together, sew skirt to skirt lining along long lower edge. Press seam to set, then press seam allowances open. 15. With WRONG sides together, fold skirt in half lengthwise, matching upper raw edges. *About 1” of the outer skirt fabric should fold up to the lining side alo0ng the lower edge. Baste upper edge; press folded crease in hem edge. 16. Using Pleat Strip, pin-mark foldlines and placement lines. Work outward from Center Front, one side at a time, to ensure you have about 1” of seam allowance left on each end of skirt. TIP: Use different colored pin heads to mark foldlines from placement lines. 17. Working from the RIGHT side of skirt, fold skirt along short edge, at all foldlines (white pins). Press each crease. *DO NOT press crease in Center Front!! 18. Working from one end of the skirt, bring each foldline crease to its nearest placement line, forming box pleats. Press crease from WRONG side, being careful not to unpress anything. 19. Continue to form box pleats until you reach other end. 20. Pin pleats in place, then secure with machine basting or hand-cross stitches. *(Hand cross stitches will help keep the folds from sliding apart during stitching, which can result in gap-toothed box pleats.) 21. With RIGHT sides together, pin skirt to bodice, matching center fronts and pleat to side seam, keeping lining free. *NOTE: If you do not wish to hand-sew the lining in place, include lining in this seam. Zig zag or overlock raw edge to finish seam. Baste lining to bodice along center back seam allowance. Zig zag or overlock the raw edges together and continue with the zipper.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER 22. Lay zipper WRONG side up, with the zipper open. Press zipper coils flat with a medium iron. This will make the zipper easier to sew. *NOTE: a contrasting zipper is used for viewing ease; for a truly invisible experience, choose a zipper with a tape that matches your fashion fabric. 23. Place garment RIGHT side up. Place zipper face down on center back seam allowance. The zipper coils will be facing toward garment. Pin zipper down center back, stopping 2” from bottom edge. 24. Using a zipper foot, straight stitch down seam close to coils. Sew slowly to prevent fabric from puckering. Stop when you reach end point and backstitch. *NOTE: If using an invisible zipper foot on your machine, lower the foot down onto the zipper. Make sure that the zipper coil is in the left groove of the foot. 25. Close zipper and pin mark the waistline and end stitching point. Open up zipper and pin zipper to garment, matching important pin marks. Make sure RIGHT side of fabric is facing up and WRONG side of zipper is facing up. (Zipper coil should be facing toward garment) 26. Baste. Close zipper and check match. Adjust as needed. Sew zipper permanently as you did the other side, again stopping 2” from bottom edge. NOTE: If using an invisible zipper foot, the zipper coil is in the RIGHT grove of the foot. Pull the zipper closed and lightly press before continuing. 27. With RIGHT sides together, pin lower opening together, keeping zipper tail free. Sew up opening at 1” seam allowance, stopping just past zipper stitching. NOTE: This seam may veer a little (1/8”) away from zipper stitching towards garment. Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

21.

28. Hand sew a thread bar tack across zipper coils 1/2” past zipper stitching. Cut off excess zipper tape and finish with a touch of seam sealant. 29. Cut off excess tape at top of zipper and finish with a touch of seam sealant. Be sure not to cut off the top zipper stop. 30. Zig zag or overlock raw skirt edges; press under 1/4” and topstitch to finish. 31. Turn bottom edges under, forming points, and hand-whip into place. 32. Pin lining to bodice, starting at strategic intervals (top of zipper, matching seams at waistline), folding under seam allowance as you go. 33. Hand whip-stitch lining to zipper tape and along waistline. 34. With RIGHT sides together, pin Bow Body in half lengthwise. Straight stitch using 1/4” seam allownace. Press seam open and flip right side out. Press so that seam is in center of one side. 35. Overlap short ends of strip 1/4” and stitch together to form loop. Center seam on the back of loop and lightly press flat. 36. With RIGHT sides together, fold Bow Tails in half lengthwise. Pin. Stitch, leaving about 1” open in the center. Clip, turn right side out, and press. 37. Stack Bow Body on top of Bow Tails, slightly off-setting Bow Body to the left. Sew running stitch as pictured, and pull tight. Wrap several times with thread to secure before tying off. 38. Press under both long raw edges of Bow Wrap 3/8”. 39. Stitch one end to back of bow, then wrap around bow body. 40. Clip off excess, turn under raw edge and hand-whip securely in place. 41. Tack Bow Tails into position as shown, to ensure a graceful fall. 42. Hand tack Bow to dress, centering over Side Front pleat.

Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture

1 INCH

1 INCH

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CUT 1 of Fabric CUT 1 of Lining (flip pattern)

Monday Morning Dress

Lower Bodice Front

CUT 1 of Fabric

CUT 1 of Lining (flip pattern)

These patterns are intended for personal use, not for commercial purposes or large scale manufacturing. To inquire about using them for work from home selling, please email [email protected] and request the Partnership Terms and Agreement document. Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture All rights reserved.

1 INCH

1 INCH

center back

Monday Morning Dress

CUT 1 of Fabric CUT 1 of Lining (flip pattern)

1/2” seam allowance

Left Bodice Back

SKIRT CUT 1 Fashion Fabric: 34” x 7 1/2” CUT 1 Lining: 34” x 5 1/2” *includes 1/2” seam allowance at Center Back

ARMSCYCE BINDING

center back

1/2” seam allowance

CUT 2 Fabric or Lining 1” x 6” on bias

Monday Morning Dress Lower RightBodice Back CUT 1 of Fabric CUT 1 of Lining (flip pattern)

These patterns are intended for personal use, not for commercial purposes or large scale manufacturing. To inquire about using them for work from home selling, please email [email protected] and request the Partnership Terms and Agreement document. Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture All rights reserved.

1 INCH

1 INCH

Bow Wrap CUT 1

These patterns are intended for personal use, not for commercial purposes or large scale manufacturing. To inquire about using them for work from home selling, please email [email protected] and request the Partnership Terms and Agreement document. Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture All rights reserved.

CUT 1 of Fabric

Bow Tails

Monday Morning Dress

CUT 1 of Fabric

Bow Body

Monday Morning Dress

3/8” seam allowance

CF

FOLD

tape to section 1

PLEATING STRIP SECTION 2

These patterns are intended for personal use, not for commercial purposes or large scale manufacturing. To inquire about using them for work from home selling, please email [email protected] and request the Partnership Terms and Agreement document. Copyright © 2012 Melody Valerie Couture All rights reserved.

side back pleat

side front pleat

PLEATING STRIP SECTION 1

Placement Lines

Foldlines

Pleating Guide

Monday Morning Dress

CB

side seam

1 INCH

1 INCH tape to section 2

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