Greenstyle Power Sports Bra 12142018 [PDF]

Zitiervorschau

GreenStyle

Power Sports Bra

www.greenstylecreations.com

This pattern may not be reproduced or shared. It is to be used for personal or small business use only.

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Table of Contents General Instructions..........................3 Fabric Choices..................................................................................3 Size Chart.........................................................................................3 Fabric Requirements........................................................................4 Notions and Supplies.......................................................................4 Seam Allowances.............................................................................4 Layers...............................................................................................4 Printing the Pattern...........................................................................5

Assembling the Pattern.....................6 Cutting the Pieces...............................7 Suggested Layout............................................................................7

Sewing Steps........................................8 Pattern Pieces......................................19

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General Instructions Fabric Choices

You will need 75% stretch knit similar to spandex/lycra, supplex, circular knit, swim knit etc. Make sure you prewash the fabric. Stretch 4” 1” 1” 1” 25%

4” of knit should stretch to here

50%

4” of knit should stretch to here

75%

4” of knit should stretch to here

Size Chart IT IS IMPORTANT TO MEASURE YOURSELF. DO NOT ASSUME YOU WILL WEAR THE SAME SIZE YOU WEAR IN Ready To Wear (RTW) BRAS. You need to measure at the fullest part of your bust and also your under-bust. Your cup size is determined by the difference in those two measurements. If between sizes, please size DOWN to the smaller size.

IMPORTANT Tips on Measuring STEP 1: With a good fitting sports bra on, measure firmly around your rib cage, directly underneath your breasts. The tape measure should be horizontal around your body and should not drop in the back. Hold your breath in neutral position. This is your under-bust AND your band measurement.

Difference in Under-Bust Cup Size and Full Bust

1” 2” 3” 4” 5” 6” 7” 8”

A B

C D E F G H

Under-Bust measurement (inches) 27-28 29-30 31-32 33-34 35-36 37-38 39-40 41-42 43-44 45-46

Band Size (inches) 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46

STEP 2: With your bra on, hold the tape measure firmly around the fullest part of your bust. Make sure the tape measure is taut and straight. The difference between this and your under-bust measurement is your cup size.

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Fabric Requirements NOTE: These estimates are based on 58” - 60” wide fabric. Extra fabric may be needed to match stripes, for directional prints, and to allow for fabric shrinkage or if you need additional length.

Racerback Strappy Backs

Fabric (yards) 3/4 1/2

Lining (yards) 3/4 1/2

Notions and Supplies • • • • • • • • • •

Thread Up to 1 yard of 1 1/2” wide good quality elastic (2” wide is optional) Several yards of clear flat elastic OPTIONAL: One set of bra cups OPTIONAL: One set of 3/4” bra sliders (rectangular part only) for Adjustable Front Option OPTIONAL: One set of 3/4” swim (or bra) hooks for Adjustable Front Option OPTIONAL: One set of 3/4” nursing hooks for Nursing Option OPTIONAL: Twill tape, 3/4” wide for Adjustable Front Option (FOE can also be used) OPTIONAL: One 3-Hook bra hook and loop set You will also need an iron, ironing board, scissors, pins, and a sewing machine

Seam Allowance

The seam allowance is included and is 3/8” unless otherwise stated in the pattern.

File Layers

This pattern has size layers so you have the option to print all the sizes or only the one(s) you want to print. To see the layers, click on the icon on the left side that looks like this:

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Then, the layers will show in the left Layers menu as seen here. There will be “eyes” in the boxes to correspond to the layers that are visible. For example, if you are making the 32 band and only want to print the 32, click on the Layers symbol on the left side, and then make sure the “eye” is checked next to the box and the “eye” is unchecked in the other size boxes. You will always print the layer titled Common Layer. There is a layer titled EXTRA COVERAGE 40-46 and F-H. This layer has cut lines for those that need extra side and back coverage. It only covers band sizes 40-46 and cup sizes F-H. Click this PLUS your normal band size on if you would like the cut lines for extra coverage.

Printing the Pattern

Make sure the “page scaling” is set to “none” or “actual size”. Pattern pieces print on regular 8.5” x 11” paper or A4 Paper if you have downloaded the A4 version. There is a 1” x 1” test square for reference on Page 19. Print Page 19 first and check the 1” x 1” square before printing the remainder of the pattern pages. Back and Band Options Racerback Strappy Cross Back Strappy U Back Band Straps Keyhole Binding Adjustable Strap Optional Pocket

Pages to Print 19, 20, 23, 24, 28 20, 21 21, 22 24, 25, 26 24, 25, 26 21 19 23, 27

Cup Options A Cup B Cup C Cup D Cup E Cup F Cup G Cup H Cup

Pages to Print 27, 28 29, 30 31, 32 33, 34 35, 36 37, 38 36, 39, 40 38, 41, 42

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Assembling the Pattern After printing the multi-page pattern, overlap the pages as shown in the picture with pages 19 to 22 on the first row, and 23 to 26 on the second row, and so on. There is no need to trim the pages. Tape the pages together and trace pattern onto tissue paper or interfacing. Cut to your desired size. :::Printing Tip::: Make sure your printer’s paper guides are snug against the paper and the paper is stacked in the printer evenly. Some printers pull each page inconsistently, and this can cause some misalignment. NO TRIMMING NEEDED! The pattern will only have a border on the bottom and right side. You line up page 20 on top of page 21 and overlap the page by 1/2” and tape into place and continue on. Match up the edge of the right page to the right edge of the gray line on the left page.

As you overlap there will be a small piece of the line that won’t print, just cut as normal or you can take a pen and fill them in.

The file for A4 Paper may appear slightly different

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Cutting the Pieces Fabric

Lining

Cups and Bands 1. Cut 1 of the Center Front on the fold 2. Cut 2 of the Side Front as mirror images 3. Cut 1 Band on the fold 4. Optional: Cut 1 of the Keyhole Binding 5. Cut 4 of the Straps for the Strappy U Back Option 6. Cut 2 of the 1 and 4 Straps for the Strappy Cross Back Option 7. Cut 2 of the 2 and 3 Straps for the Strappy Cross Back Option 8. Cut 4 of the Optional Adjustable Front Straps

Cups and Bands 1. Cut 1 of the Center Front on the fold 2. Cut 2 of the Side Front as mirror images

Back - choose one 1. Cut 1 of the Racerback on the fold 2. Cut 1 of the Strappy U Back on the fold 3. Cut 1 Strappy Cross Back on the fold

FOLD

Back - choose one 1. Cut 1 of the Racerback on the fold 2. Cut 1 of the Strappy U Back on the fold 3. Cut 1 Strappy Cross Back on the fold

Elastic

Cut one piece per chart (measure and check for comfortable fit before cutting as elastic can vary)

Optional 1. Cut 1 of Racerback Pocket on FOLD

FOLD

FOLD

EXAMPLES

Racerback Option

Strappy U Back Option

FOLD

FOLD

Strappy Cross Back Option

Size

Cut 1 piece of Wide Elastic (in)*

28

22 - 23

30

23 - 24

32

25 -26

34

27 - 28

36

29 - 30

38

31 - 32

40

33 - 34

42

35 - 36

44

38 - 39

46

40 - 41

*Check fit before cutting as some elastic has less stretch.

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Sewing Steps FRONT 1. With right sides together, stitch the Front Side to the Front Center as shown. There will be a dog ear at the top edge. Be sure to line up along the seam allowance.

right side wrong side lining

2.Optional: Top stitch with seam allowance toward the center front.

3. Repeat Step 1 and 2 with the lining pieces except press the seam allowance to the side front.

4. If you are using the optional bra cups and would like them to be removable, fold each outer side edge under 1/4” and hem with a stretch stitch.

Note: If you haven’t already, trim off 1/4” from the bottom edge of the front and back of the lining pieces. If you are making the Adjustable Straps, proceed to Step 5. If you are making Nursing Straps, proceed to Step 7. If not, skip to Step 9. 8

OPTIONAL ADJUSTABLE STRAPS 5. If you are making the Adjustable Straps Option (for racerback only), place two of the Adjustable Bands together with right sides together and stitch along the edges. Turn right sides out. Repeat for the remaining two pieces. FOLD the band around one edge of a 3/4” slider. Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine and stitch close to the slider as shown.

6. Sew the Adjustable Bands to the upper edges of the Front as shown with right sides together.

OPTIONAL NURSING STRAPS Note: Nursing hooks can be used with both the racerback or the strappy back options if desired. 7. If you are making the Nursing Strap Option, place two of the Adjustable Bands together with right sides together and stitch along the edges. Turn right sides out. Repeat for the remaining two pieces. FOLD the band around lower edge of the bottom half of a 3/4” nursing clip. Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine and stitch close to the clip as shown.

8. Sew the Adjustable Bands to the upper edges of the Front as shown with right sides together.

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ALL OPTIONS 9. With right sides together, stitch the front to the Back at the two side seams. All Back options as shown except the non-keyhole back. REPEAT for the Lining Front and Back. (The removable cup lining option is shown here.) If using the removable cup option, leave the hemmed edge free except at the top and bottom edge.

For Racerback Option, proceed to Step 10, for Strappy Back Option, proceed to Step 27.

RACERBACK OPTION 10. If you are making the Optional Racerback Pocket, fold the upper edge down 1/4 inch and hem with a stretch stitch OR finish the top edge with FOE. The FOE will help hold your items securely if you stretch it slightly as you stitch it to the top edge. Fold the lower edge up 1/4” and baste. Center the pocket over the back and pin into place. The pocket will be slightly smaller and will need to stretch. Stitch across the lower edge and baste the side edges. Proceed as directed for the regular Racerback. The pocket will not be shown in the following steps.

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11. Slip the lining inside the main with right sides together. Pin into place. Stitch all around the edges leaving the upper straps open AND the upper narrow edges on the front as shown below.

12. Optional: It is highly recommended that you sew 1/4” flat clear elastic to the arm and neckline edges (in the seam allowance) of the bra. It MUST be sewn to the main fabric wrong side at the seam line. This will add support and strength to your bra.

right side wrong side lining

13. Turn the bra right side out. If you are making the adjustable strap, continue to Step 14. If not, skip to Step 17.

or

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OPTIONAL ADJUSTABLE STRAPS 14. If you are making the Adjustable Straps, stitch a 3 3/4” length of twill tape or FOE to the front of the straps at the markings. Fold the ends under and stitch every 1/4” making channels for the hook.

15. Thread the raw edge up and through the front Adjustable Band slider as shown. Then thread it through the hook. Fold the raw edge up and stitch close to the hook. The hook can now be adjusted anywhere along the channels you created with the twill tape.

16. Continue to Step 17 but note the Adjustable Bands are not shown in the following steps. NOTE: The Keyhole Racerback is shown below. If you choose to sew the non-keyhole back, Skip to Step 21.

RACERBACK KEYHOLE OPTION 17. If you are making the optional Keyhole, baste the raw edges together around the keyhole on the Back. With right sides together, stitch the binding to the edges as shown. Trim off any excess binding.

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18. Fold the binding to the wrong side of the Back and fold again. Pin into place and stitch along the folded edge as shown here.

If you made the Adjustable Strap option, skip to Step 22. If you are making the Nursing Strap option, skip Step 44. If not, proceed to Step 19.

19. Slip the straps down into the front strap openings and pin into place. Try the bra on and make needed adjustments keeping in mind that you haven’t installed the band yet. The band will help hold it in place. Check for comfortable fit and support on the shoulders and mark the length needed. Take the bra off and pull the lining up and turn with right sides together and stitch the straps into place. Stitch again for added strength.

20. OPTIONAL: Insert the bra cups between the two layers.

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21. Baste the lower raw edges together matching up the raw edges.

NOTE: For the non-keyhole Racerback, Skip to Step 40.

KEYHOLE BAND 22. Fold the Band in half lengthwise with right sides together and stitch the two ends from the marks out to the end as shown. 23. CAREFULLY clip the edge to the end of the stitching. Do not clip the seam or past the seam. 24. Turn the band right sides out and push the raw edges out as shown. 25. Slip the band onto the bottom edge of the bra lining up the marks where you started sewing with the edge of the keyhole. Stitch the band to the bra with a stretch stitch or a starting and stopping at the edge of the keyhole.

26. Thread elastic into the band using a safety pin. Baste the elastic to the open edges. Pin or baste the band together at the center and check for fit. Adjust if needed. Stitch securely and then open the seam allowance and stitch it flat with a zigzag stitch on both sides.

NOTE: If you prefer, you can add bra hook and loop to the back instead of stitching the band together. Use manufacturer’s directions for installing the hook.

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STRAPPY U BACK or STRAPPY CROSS BACK OPTION 27. Fold the Strap in half lengthwise with right sides together. Pin and stitch clear elastic (shown with swim elastic) to the edge. Use a narrow zigzag stitch. Do not stretch the elastic. Repeat for the remaining 3 straps. NOTE: Ready made bra strapping can be substituted for the straps.

28. Clip one end of the fabric part of the strap and thread a bobby pin or safety pin into the clipped edge. Turn the straps right sides out by threading the bobby pin or safety pin through the tube.

Note: The Straps are numbered from left to right with the left being 1 and the farthest right being 4. When you proceed to Step 29, make sure the longer straps (1 and 4) are on the outside edges and straps 2 and 3 are toward the center front.

2 1

3 4

NOTE: If making the Nursing Strap Option, you will skip Step 29 and already have the bottom half of the nursing clips sewn here. 29. With right sides together, stitch two straps to each side of the upper edge of the Front as shown. Secure the stitch with a second row of stitching. For the Strappy Cross Back, make sure Straps 1 and 4 (the longer straps) are on the outer edges.

right side wrong side lining

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30. Place the lining in with right sides together. Pin into place.

31. Stitch around the front and back leaving the spaces open as shown depending on your chosen option. If you are making the Strappy Cross Back, leave two edges open at the markings. If you are making the Two Strap option, leave the upper corner edges open.

32. Turn the bra right side out.

STRAPPY CROSS BACK OPTION 33. If you are making the Strappy Cross Back, pin the back of the straps into place. Try the bra on and adjust the length of the straps. When you have the correct length, reach under, between the lining and pin again or mark the needed position. Turn the bra back to right sides together and stitch Straps 2 and 3 straps into place at a slight angle (about 30 degrees) along the upper edge. Trim the excess straps. DO NOT STITCH STRAPS 1 and 4 YET.

34. While the bra is turned wrong side out, stitch 1/4” clear elastic to the edges highlighted in pink. This will provide stability and support. Turn the bra right sides out.

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35. Baste Straps 1 and 4 along the lower edge as shown at a slight angle.

36. Optional: Sew bar-tacks along the upper edges

STRAPPY U BACK

37. If you are making the Strappy U Back, pin the back of the straps into place. Try the bra on and adjust the length of the straps. When you have the right length. reach under, between the lining, and pin again or mark the needed position. Stitch clear elastic to the edges as instructed in Step 34. Turn the bra back to right sides together and stitch the straps into place. Clip the corners and trim the excess straps. Turn right side out.

38. OPTIONAL: For both Strappy Options, slip the bra cups between the front layers as shown.

39. Baste the lower raw edges together matching up the raw edges. The lining is slightly shorter to help pull the lining to the wrong side.

STRAPPY BACK BAND or NON-KEYHOLE BAND 40. Fold the band in half with right sides together and stitch the short end as shown. Overlap the elastic by 1/2” and stitch with a X to secure it. Check for fit and adjust if necessary. Slip the elastic over the band and fold the band in half with wrong sides together. Line up the raw edges and pin in a few locations.

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41. Divide the band into 4 sections and mark with a pin or clip. Repeat for bottom edge of the bra. 42. Place the band on the bottom edge of the bra matching up the marks. Stitch with a stretch stitch or a serger stretching the band as your sew. Stitch close to the edge of the elastic.

43. Secure the elastic along the side seams or center back by stitching a vertical straight stitch. This will prevent the elastic from turning or rolling.

OPTIONAL NURSING STRAPS 44. Thread the shoulder strap through the top edge of the upper nursing clip. Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine to stitch close to the clip. This can be done with the Racerback straps or the two strap options. The racerback is shown here.

45. Cut a piece of elastic about 6 1/2” and stitch around the bottom edge of the upper nursing clip. Secure with a bar-tack stitch as shown. Then, baste the bottom of the elastic strap to the bottom edge of the bra near the side seam. This will keep your strap connected and available when you un-clip the nursing clip.

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30

28

bottom

for the

lining

Lengthen or Shorten Here

Greatest Stretch

Cut here for Keyhol e Op tion

off the

Cut here for No Keyhole

Power Sports Bra RACERBACK

Fabric Cut 1 on FOLD Lining Cut 1 on FOLD 3/8” seam allowance

” Cut 1/4

FOLD

32

1” x 1” Test Square 3/8” seam allowance Power Sports Bra OPT IONAL ADJUSTABLE FRONT ST RAP Cut 4

34

19 only

Do not share or reproduce without permission

Greenstyle Power Sports Bra

28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42

20

46 FOLD

Size 28 - 34

Greatest Stretch Size Size 28 - 34

44 46

2

Size 36 - 40

Size 42 - 46

Power Sports Bra ST RAPPY CROSS BACK Fabric Cut 1 on FOLD Lining Cut 1 on FOLD 3/8” seam allowance

Size

36 - 40 42 - 46

Cut 1/4” off th

e bottom fo

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only

44

42

40

38

36

3

CK

Power Sports Bra Optional KEYHOLE BINDING Fabric Cut 1 (you can use FOE)

Greatest Stretch

28

30

21 32

34

36

38

40

42

46

44

46

44

42

40

38

36

34

34

32

30

28

22

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Cut 1/4” off the

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OPT IONAL CENT ER POCKET Cut 1 on FOLD 3/8” seam allowance

Greatest Stretch

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28

Power Sports Bra BAND

Fabric Cut 1 on FOLD

25

3/8” seam allowance

Keyhole Marks

Power Sports Bra ST RAPPY U BACK ST RAPS Fabric Cut 4 3/8” seam allowance

Power Sports Bra CROSS BACK ST RAPS 1 and 4 Fabric Cut 2 3/8” seam allowance

Power Sports Bra CROSS BACK ST RAPS 2 and 3 Fabric Cut 2 3/8” seam allowance

Greatest Stretch

Cut here for 2” Elastic or if using a 3 hook bra hook

Cut here for 1 1/2” Elastic

FOLD

Size 42 - 46

Size 36 - 40

26

28

Size 42 - 46

Size 36 - 40

Size 28 - 34

30 32 34 36 38

Size 42 - 46

Size 36 - 40

40

Size 28 - 34

Size 28 - 34

Greatest Stretch

42 44 46

p

Hem or use FOE on this edge

27

Power Sports Bra FRONT SIDE

Fabric Cut 2 (as mirror images) Lining Cut 2 (as mirror images)

A Cup

Grainline

3/8” seam allowance

Greatest Stretch

Cut 1/4” off the bottom for the

lining only

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A Cup

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Greatest Stretch

Cut 1/4” off the bottom for the lining only

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29

Power Sports Bra FRONT SIDE

Fabric Cut 2 (as mirror images) Lining Cut 2 (as mirror images)

Grainline

3/8” seam allowance

B Cup

Greatest Stretch

Cut 1/4” off th

e bottom for

the lining only

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30

Power Sports Bra FRONT CENT ER Fabric Cut 1 on FOLD Lining Cut 1 on FOLD 3/8” seam allowance

B Cup

FOLD

Greatest Stretch

Cut 1/4” off the bottom for the lining only

31

Power Sports Bra FRONT SIDE

Fabric Cut 2 (as mirror images) Lining Cut 2 (as mirror images) 3/8” seam allowance Grainline

C Cup

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32

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Power Sports Bra FRONT CENT ER

3/8” seam allowance

FOLD

Fabric Cut 1 on FOLD Lining Cut 1 on FOLD

C Cup Greatest Stretch

Cut 1/4” off the bottom for the lining only

33

Power Sports Bra FRONT SIDE

Fabric Cut 2 (as mirror images) Lining Cut 2 (as mirror images) 3/8” seam allowance Grainline

D Cup Greatest Stretch

Cut 1/4” off th

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34

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Power Sports Bra FRONT CENT ER Fabric Cut 1 on FOLD Lining Cut 1 on FOLD 3/8” seam allowance

D Cup

FOLD

only

mid neck mid neck mid neck mid neck mid neck mid neck mid neck

Greatest Stretch

Cut 1/4” off the bottom for the lining only

28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44

35

Power Sports Bra FRONT SIDE

Fabric Cut 2 (as mirror images) Lining Cut 2 (as mirror images)

E Cup

Grainline

3/8” seam allowance

Greatest Stretch Cut 1/4” off the bottom for the lining only

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37

Power Sports Bra FRONT SIDE

Greatest Stretch

Cut 1/4” off the bottom for the lining only

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Power Sports Bra FRONT SIDE

Fabric Cut 2 (as mirror images) Lining Cut 2 (as mirror images)

G Cup

Grainline

3/8” seam allowance

Greatest Stretch Cut 1/4” off the botto

m for the lining only

Cut Here for Strappy Options Cut Here for Strappy Options

Cut Here for Strappy Opti ons

Cut Here for Strappy Options

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Cut Here for Strappy Opt ions

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41

Power Sports Bra FRONT SIDE

Fabric Cut 2 (as mirror images) Lining Cut 2 (as mirror images) 3/8” seam allowance

Grainline

H Cup

Greatest Stretch Cut 1/4” off the

bottom for the

lining only

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