Graphic Guide To Residential Space Planning [PDF]

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GRAPHIC GUIDE TO

RESIDENTIAL SPACE PLANNING

Graphic Guide to Residential Space Planning by Luis Furushio Self-published by Luis Furushio www.Luisfurushio.com © 2022, Luis Furushio All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced in any form by any electronic or mechanical means (including photocopying, recording, or information storage and retrieval) without permission in writing from the publisher, except as permitted by U.S. copyright law. For permissions contact: [email protected]

Author's Note Hi there, I am Luis, and I got inspired to create this book from questions I usually get from clients during the early stages of the design process. In architecture, there is always an intention behind each design decision, and this needs to be communicated throughout the entire creative process. In this book, I try to answer some of these questions, showing the "whys" behind residential design with simple drawings that are visually easy to digest. Whether you are an architecture student yearning for sources beyond basic textbooks, a homeowner searching for tips on how to remodel your house, or even a contractor wanting to improve your residential design knowledge, this is the book for you. Good design is not accomplished when you provide your own vision and what you think is best for your client. Good design is accomplished when you take your client's vision and elevate it in order to improve their quality of life while communicating your intentions.

What's Inside THE FIRST SKETCHES.....................................................1

From Diagrams to Plans..................................................................... 2

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS..........................6

Exterior Environment.......................................................................... 7 Mass, Scale, and Proportions........................................................... 10 Grading and Hillside Construction.................................................... 13 House Styles in North America......................................................... 19

LIVING AREAS.................................................................21

General Analysis.............................................................................. 22 Foyer / Entry Hall Design.................................................................. 26 Living Room Design......................................................................... 32 Dining Room Design......................................................................... 42 Guest Bathroom Design................................................................... 47

SLEEPING AREAS...........................................................50 Bedroom Arrangements................................................................... 51 Bedroom Design............................................................................... 54 Bathroom Design.............................................................................. 62

KITCHEN AREA...............................................................69 Kitchen Design................................................................................. 70

UTILITY AREAS...............................................................92 Laundry Room Design...................................................................... 93 Garage Design................................................................................. 96

STAIRCASES...................................................................99

Types of Staircases........................................................................ 100 Design and Location of Staircases................................................. 101

Chapter 1

THE FIRST SKETCHES



THE FIRST SKETCHES

FROM DIAGRAMS TO PLANS

Bubble diagrams are a helpful start for placing the different areas of a house in relationship with the orientation of the lot, the weather, the view, and how you can access the property. This first step will avoid any drastic modifications during the developement of the final floor plan. The most used areas of the house should be kept fairly close as much as possible to avoid unnecessary steps. Living areas should be kept close to the kitchen area due to the high traffic volume. Sleeping areas should be kept as far as possible from the noisy parts of the house like the utility areas, and their access should be through a transitional space like a hallway to provide more privacy. The following are bubble diagrams showing common traffic patterns between the different areas of a house. I have divided these into Living Areas, Kitchen Area, and Sleeping Areas. For the purpose of simplicity, I am not showing the utility areas. The width of the arrows represent the relative amount of traffic between the areas.

S

K

K

L

L

ENTRY DIAGRAM 2 Acceptable traffic flow. This is an improvement of Diagram 1. By just swaping living and sleeping areas, the linear traffic flow improves considerably.

DIAGRAM 1 ENTRY Not recommended. The traffic flow from the kitchen to the living areas is too far, and the location of the sleeping area in between creates problems of traffic, noise, and privacy.

K

K S ENTRY

S

L

L

S

ENTRY

DIAGRAM 4 Very efficient traffic flow. As in Diagram 3, there is a strong connection between living and kitchen areas. The resulting “T” shape generates easy access to the sleeping areas.

DIAGRAM 3 Efficient traffic flow. Sleeping areas are provided with privacy, and the resulting "L" shape generates a potential space for an outdoor area like a deck or patio.



THE FIRST SKETCHES FROM DIAGRAMS TO PLANS

There are several ways to arrange the different rooms in a house. The best way to approach this is by giving priority to the effcient use of the space and traffic flow. However, a particular client may request changes from the most efficient arrangement and may resist all logical argument. Always remember that a big part of the designer's job is to satisfy the needs of the client, but always make sure to communicate how these changes are going to impact their quality of life in the long run. STAIRS UP

STAIRS DN

K

ENTRY

L

S 1ST LEVEL

2ND LEVEL

DIAGRAM 5 Traffic flow for a two-story house. The most used areas of the house, the living room and the kitchen, are located on the first level. The private areas are located on the second level. This diagram provides easy access to the stairs that are located between the living and kitchen areas.

S STAIRS DN

STAIRS UP

S L

K

ENTRY

1ST LEVEL

2ND LEVEL

DIAGRAM 6 A variation of Diagram 5 with sleeping areas on the first level. The kitchen and living areas are close to each other, providing easy access to the sleeping areas and resulting in a "T" shape, similar to Diagram 4. The location of the stairs, next to the sleeping areas on both levels, provides privacy and good flow between the two levels.



THE FIRST SKETCHES FROM DIAGRAMS TO PLANS

The following is an example of how you can develop your first schematic floor plan. The process starts by drawing your bubble diagram and finishes with a schematic single-line floor plan. In this phase, you can also provide schematic elevations, sections, and all the sketches to help communicate your ideas and design intentions. It is important to make sure that you explain the "why" behind each design decision throughout the entire process. BUBBLE DIAGRAM We start by locating the living and kitchen areas close to each other. The sleeping and utility areas are placed on opposite sides, keeping the sleeping areas far from noises and with more privacy. The resulting shape is a linear arrangement.

K

U

S L ENTRY

SITE PLAN ANALYSIS Based on the existing conditions of the site, we start locating our resulting bubble diagram. The orientation of the lot, the existing climate conditions, the views, and the location of your neighbor's house are all crucial factors that can impact the final design.

N VIEWS

The linear arrangement oriented in the same direction of the sun path with minimal openings on west and east sides helps protect the house from the heat generated by the sun.

WINDS WINDS

K

U

The arrangement also takes advantage of the winds coming from the south and north to provide cross ventilation through the narrowest side of the house.

L

DRIVEWAY

The use of natural barriers like trees and shrubs helps control solar heat gain during the summer months and provides privacy to the sleeping areas facing the front of the lot.

WINDS WINDS

STR

EET



S

TREES PROVIDE PRIVACY TO THE SLEEPING AREAS

THE FIRST SKETCHES FROM DIAGRAMS TO PLANS

LIVING

KITCHEN

LAUNDRY

BEDROOM 1

PRIMARY BEDROOM

GARAGE BEDROOM 2

BATH.

BATH.

BATH.

DINING ENTRY

TRAFFIC DIAGRAM Room-by-room traffic diagrams help to demonstrate the traffic patterns of the future residents of the house. This will become the basis for the first rough scale floor plan. The scale of the bubbles is not important in this phase.

CL.

LAUND. LIVING

PRIMARY BED.

BED. 1

KITCHEN CL.

CL.

GARAGE

CL. FOYER DINING BATH.

CL. BED. 2

CL.

BATH BATH.

ENTRY

SINGLE-LINE SCHEMATIC FLOOR PLAN After you define the traffic pattern, you can start creating a single-line schematic floor plan to scale. The design process is a constant exchange of ideas, and a single-line-floor plan provides the flexibility to easily make changes to your drawing. After you define the schematic floor plan, you can start adding wall thickness and creating a more finished-looking floor plan to scale.



Chapter 2

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

EXTERIOR ENVIRONMENT

One of the most common mistakes we make during the early stages of the design process is to just focus on developing the interior functionality of our design. There are several exterior environmental factors like the building orientation, the prevailing winds, and the sun path that can significantly impact the final exterior volumetric design of our project.

ORIENTATION

Orientation is the position of your house in relation to the path of the sun in different seasons and the prevailing wind patterns in your location. The concept is very simple; if you are located in a hot region, your house should be oriented to minimize solar gains, and the opposite is applicable for cold regions. SHADED AREA REPRESENTS THE SUN’S PATH THROUGHOUT THE YEAR

SUMMER PREVAILING WINDS

E

N

WINTER

S

W

PREVAILING WINDS PREVAILING WINDS

SUMMER

SUMMER

LINEAR FLOOR PLAN

N WINTER

WINTER

PREVAILING WINDS



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS PREVAILING WINDS

Prevailing winds are the direction that the wind blows predominantly at a particular place or in a particular season. Wind direction, frequency, and speed can greatly impact the design of your house, including the exterior design, the shape of the floor plan, and the type of roof you want to use.

CROSS VENTILATION In hot climates, a linear floor plan takes advantage of the winds coming from the south and north, generating a cross ventilation system and providing the necessary natural method of cooling.

PREVAILING WINDS

PREVAILING WINDS

HIGH WIND REGIONS Gable roofs with overhangs and patio covers are prone to damage from strong winds. Wind forces on a roof tend to be uplift. A strong connection between the roof structure, walls, and foundation is necessary to avoid damage to the house structure.

UPLIFT LOAD

TREES AS NATURAL WIND BREAKS The use of trees and vegetation combined with earth dunes serve as a natural windbreak, redirecting the wind over the house structure.



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS CONTROLLING SUN RADIATION AND HEAT GAIN

USE OF VEGETATION Trees and vegetation provide many benefits controlling solar penetration. The shading that they offer helps make homes energy-efficient by creating a cooling effect during the hot summer months and allowing passive solar gain during cold winter months.

USE OF ROOF OVERHANGS Sometimes we undervalue the importance of roof overhangs as a functional part of the design of a new house. They help to shade windows, controlling heat gain and sunlight during the summer months.

USE OF LOUVERED PERGOLAS OR AWNINGS If a roof overhang is not possible, the addition of a horizontal awning or pergola over the window will provide the required shade for controlling heat gain during hot months.

USE OF VERTICAL STRUCTURES In some cases, the use of roof overhangs is not enough to provide the desired shading for large windows. The addition of vertical structures like timber batten screen walls or wood lattice screens helps to improve the control of heat gain.



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

MASS, SCALE, AND PROPORTIONS

Managing the mass, scale, and proportions of a building is a fundamental design task that you must consider from the earliest part of the design process. As floor plans evolve, room sizes and arrangements will change to accommodate exterior requirements. NO CLEAR PRIMARY FORM AND LACK OF HIERARCHY

AGLOMERATION OF ELEMENTS

BOX-LIKE FORM

TALL AND LARGE BOXY FORM OVERALL MASS EXCEEDS HUMAN SCALE

FLAT WALL PLANES

NOT RECOMMENDED

NOT RECOMMENDED

PRIMARY VOLUME PROVIDING HIERARCHY SECONDARY FORMS FRAGMENTING THE OVERALL MASS

RECOMMENDED LARGE ROOF WITH NO ARTICULATION

SECONDARY FORMS APPEAR TO BE A SERIES OF SMALL ROOFS WITH NO UNIFYING ELEMENT

MICRO-MANAGEMENT OF MASS AND ROOF FORMS

LARGE RECTANGULAR FOOTPRINT

NOT RECOMMENDED

NOT RECOMMENDED DORMERS AS SECONDARY ELEMENTS HELP TO REDUCE BULKINESS PRIMARY ROOF IS ARTICULATED BY SECONDARY ROOFS

RECOMMENDED



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS TYPES OF ROOFS

There are several types of roof shapes for a house, but the most used are gable, hip, and flat roofs.

PITCHED ROOF GABLE OR HIP

PITCHED ROOF WITH CLERESTORY

FLAT ROOF

FLAT ROOF WITH CLERESTORY

“A” FRAME ROOF

BUTTERFLY ROOF

SHED ROOF

FLAT AND SHED ROOF



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS MASS, SCALE, AND PROPORTIONS

The construction of a new house can have a negative impact if mass and scale management are not taken into account. When designing the building, it is recommended to avoid long uninterrupted exterior surfaces lacking visual interest and that don't relate to human scale. Articulating the exterior wall planes, alternating different textures, and reinforcing the human scale with entry porches are some techniques that can help you to enhance the overall visual character of the building.

AVOID LARGE BOXY FORMS

ROOF SLOPE OF FIRST STORY APPEARS AWKWARD WITH THE SECOND STORY ROOF

HEIGHT OF VOLUME OUT OF PROPORTIONS AND HUMAN SCALE AVOID UNDEFINED FLAT ENTRIES

AVOID LONG UNINTERRUPTED EXTERIOR FLAT SURFACES

NOT RECOMMENDED

BUILDING ENTRY SHOULD BE EMPHASIZED SECONDARY FORMS HELP TO FRAGMENT THE OVERALL MASS

PRIMARY VOLUME PROVIDES HIERARCHY

ROOF SLOPE OF FIRST STORY IS COMPATIBLE WITH THE SECOND STORY ROOF

HEIGHT OF VOLUME RELATES WELL WITH HUMAN SCALE

VARIATION OF WALL PLANES PROVIDE ARTICULATION TO THE OVERALL FORM

RECOMMENDED



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

GRADING AND HILLSIDE CONSTRUCTION CALCULATING THE SLOPE PERCENTAGE

To calculate the percentage of a slope, convert the rise and run to the same units, and then divide the rise by the run. Multiply the result by 100 and you obtain the percentage slope. This example uses inches and centimeters. 8.3% SLOPE RISER

3” 7.6 cm

USING IMPERIAL UNITS: 3” SLOPE = ___ = 0.083x100 = 8.3% 36” USING DECIMAL UNITS: 7.6cm SLOPE = ____ = 0.083x100 = 8.3% 91cm

RUN 36” 91 cm

GENERAL RULES OF GRADING

Grading is the work associated with moving portions of the earth to make a site level or create a site with a specified slope. Ground slope is important in determining how the site can be used.

4 TO 10 UNITS

0 TO 4 UNITS 100 UNITS

100 UNITS

FLAT LESS THAN 4% SLOPE SUITABLE FOR ALL ACTIVITIES

MODERATE SLOPE BETWEEN 4% AND 10% SLOPE INFORMAL ACTIVITIES

OVER 50 UNITS 10 TO 50 UNITS

100 UNITS

100 UNITS

STEEP SLOPE BETWEEN 10% AND 50% SLOPE LIMITED ACTIVITIES

VERY STEEP SLOPE OVER 50% SLOPE SUBJECT TO SOIL EROSION AND COLLAPSE



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS GRADING AND DRAINAGE

Appropriate design on a sloped lot includes stepping the building massing with the terrain, breaking it into multiple volumes, and avoiding large rectangular footprints with poor proportions. Max Driveways - Longitudinal - Cross Slope Walks - Longitudinal - Cross Slope

20% 10%

Min

Recommended

0.5% 0.5%

1% to 10% 1% to 3%

2% 3%

10% 4%

0.5% 1%

1% to 5% 2%

2% 2%

0.5% 0.75%

1% 1%

Greenspace - Lawn Areas

25%

2%

Varies

- Planted Slopes

30%

2%

Varies

Patios - Concrete - Flagstone or Brick Pavers

5%

2%

1%

25%

30%

2%

LAWN AREA 2% TO 25%

2% NO SLOPE

WALKWAY 0.5% TO 10%

LAWN AREA 2% TO 25%

SHEET FLOW

2% 2% 2%

DRIVEWAYS 0.5% TO 20%

FROM EDGES TO CENTER

SLOPES AND DRAINAGE FOR DRIVEWAYS, WALKS AND, GREEN SPACES

FROM RIDGE TO EDGES

SLOPES AND DRAINAGE FOR IMPERMEABLE PAVING SYSTEMS



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS CUT AND FILL

Cut and fill is the process of moving earth from one place to another to make ground more level. Cut refers to the earth removed from an area, and fill refers to the earth brought into an area. To avoid needing to fill in or remove the excess mass, the cut and fill process should be planned in a way to keep both the cut and fill masses approximately equal. Extensive cut and fill operations are expensive, generate extensive earth moving, promote the use of large retaining walls, and require soil stabilization. Consider using concrete piers in some areas, stepping floor levels to follow the natural grade, and setting a portion of the structure into the hillside. Using the slope to your advantage is less expensive and minimizes grading on hillsides. Grade change devices like retaining walls help to level out sloped areas to provide space for construction or recreation.

CUT EXISTING EARTH

BEFORE

PRESERVE EXISTING GRADE AROUND CRITICAL ROOT ZONE FILL WITH EXISTING EARTH TO LEVEL GROUND

AFTER



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS COST OF BUILDING ON HILLSIDES

Sloping sites usually offer the best views and unique opportunities for architectural design, but always make sure to consider cost vs benefits. Building on a steep hillside is not easy, sometimes expensive, and requires a certain level of expertise compared to building on a flat site. GENTLE SLOPE Less than 10% Least expensive to build. Concrete slab on grade is the least expensive option for gentle slopes. More than 7% requires the use of a raised foundation.

CUT

FILL CONCRETE SLAB WITH NO RETAINING WALLS ONLY SUITABLE FOR A SLOPE UP TO SEVEN PERCENT

MODERATE SLOPE Between 10% to 20% Expensive to build.

CUT

Combining the use of retaining walls and concrete piers can prevent extensive earth movement but CUT still requires excavation.

CUT

CONCRETE PIERS CONCRETE SLAB AND RETAINING WALLS

VERY STEEP SLOPE Above 20% Very expensive to build. The use of concrete piers and grade beams avoid extensive earth work, but it requires a skilled structural engineer to design and build to ensure safety and flood protection.

STEEL POSTS

STEEL OR WOOD POSTS

DEPENDING ON SOIL’S CONDITION, MAY REQUIRE CONCRETE GRADE BEAMS AND PIERS FOUNDATION



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS ON HILLSIDES

Appropriate design on a sloped lot includes stepping the building massing with the terrain, breaking it into multiple volumes, and avoiding large rectangular footprints with poor proportions. Y INAR IMAG INE DE L GRA

MASSIVE ROOF SHAPE

CUT

HIGH SKIRT WALLS INCREASING VERTICALITY

EXCESSIVE SUB-FLOOR SPACE FLOOR LEVELS DON’T RELATE WITH EXISTING TOPOGRAPHY

THE PROBLEM

INITIAL DESIGN The initial design does not blend well with the hillside, and the high skirt wall, used for supporting the house, emphasizes its prominence. The overscaled roof shape does not relate to the existing terrain and increases the mass of the proposed building, making it look monolithic and out of proportion.

USE ROOFTOP DECKS OR BALCONIES TO MITIGATE BULK AND MASS

RY

INA

G IMA

DE GRA

LINE

STEP OR SLOPE ROOF WITH TERRAIN

CUT FILL

EXCAVATE AND INSET FLOOR LEVELS PARTIALLY INTO GRADE

FILL

STAGGER FLOOR LEVELS PLACE FLOOR LEVELS CLOSE TO GRADE

CUT

THE SOLUTION REVISED DESIGN The revised design steps the rooflines with the slope to blend with the existing terrain. The floor levels are placed close and partially inset into the grade to avoid the need of a skirt wall to support the house. The cut and fill process keeps both masses approximately equal, avoiding unecessary earth work.



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS MULTIPLE LEVEL HOUSE ARRANGEMENTS

Stepping floor levels to follow the natural grade minimizes large scale earth-work and helps control the bulk and mass of the building. Split-level house designs are an alternative solution to divide the living spaces into multiple levels. Split-level homes are typically divided into two or three different levels with a living room, kitchen, and dining on the main floor, bedrooms and bathrooms on the upper floor, and the den or garage in the basement area. The main disadvantage of split-level homes are the stairs that can be a challenge for people with mobility issues. For new families, blocking stairways becomes an issue in a home with crawling babies or kids not yet ready for staircases. However, split level homes separate the living, active areas of the home from the sleeping areas, which provides more privacy and quietness.

E LINE

Y GRAD

R IMAGINA

E LINE

Y GRAD

R IMAGINA

BEDROOMS MAIN LEVEL

STREET SIDE

BEDROOMS

BASEMENT

STREET SIDE

MAIN LEVEL

SLOPE

DOWN

OPE UP SL

3-LEVEL DOWNSLOPE HOUSE

2-LEVEL UPSLOPE HOUSE

IMAGIN

ARY G

IMAGIN

ARY GR

RADE

LINE

ADE LIN

E MAIN LEVEL

STREET SIDE

STREET SIDE

MAIN LEVEL

BEDROOMS

BASEMENT

DOWN

DOW

SLOPE

2-LEVEL DOWNSLOPE HOUSE

N SL OPE

2-LEVEL DOWNSLOPE HOUSE



PATIO

EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS

HOUSE STYLES IN NORTH AMERICA

PRAIRIE SCHOOL Charcterized by its horizontal lines, hip and flat roofs, and large overhangs, this style became common in the Midwestern US between 1900 and 1915.

AMERICAN CRAFTSMAN Inspired by the British Arts and Craft movement, this became one of the most popular house styles in the US between 1900 and 1929.

MEDITERRANEAN Resmbling the aesthetics of Mediterranean villas, this style became popular in warm weather locations like Florida and Califronia between 1918 and 1940.

TUDOR REVIVAL Inspired by the English Tudor style, these houses became popular in North America between 1910 and 1940.

RANCH Originally from California, this style became popular in most suburban areas of North America after World War II, between 1945 and 1970.



EXTERIOR DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS HOUSE STYLES IN NORTH AMERICA

MODERN FARMHOUSE This style appeared in the late 90s, replicating the cozy feel of early American farmhouses and utilizing sleek clean lines to add contrast to the final design.

EICHLER These types of houses were built between 1949 and 1966 in California. The name comes from Joseph Eichler, a real estate developer who comissioned these type of houses for middle-class Americans.

CONTEMPORARY This refers to a style that evolves to reflect the architecture of today. Most contemporary designs take a lot of characteristics from modern design, emphasizing clean and simple lines.



Chapter 3

LIVING AREAS



LIVING AREAS

GENERAL ANALYSIS

The living areas are the social core of a house where most of the interaction between the members of a social group happens. These groups can include family units of all kinds, roommates, and their guests. It's a place where you get together, eat, entertain your guests, or just relax. These areas include the foyer or entry, the living room, and the dining room. The transition between these spaces should be flawless so that a person is able to move from one place to another without any obstacles. In the following examples, I am also including the kitchen area in some of these drawings, as it is strongly related to the dining room and living room areas.

TO BACKYARD

DESIGN 1 In this typical arrangement, you can clearly identify four formal areas divided by partition walls: a foyer with a guest bathroom and coat closet, a large living room, a kitchen, and a formal dining room.

TO LAUNDRY AND GARAGE

KITCHEN LIVING

All the formal rooms are connected through openings where size depends on the amount of traffic required to go from room to room. This traditional layout maintains the home classic style.

TO BEDROOMS

DINING

Formal enclosed spaces provide privacy and coziness to each room. Sound and temperature are also easier to control, and the high number of walls allows you to decorate the space with art and more furniture.

FOYER

ENTRY



COAT CLOSET

GUEST BATHROOM

LIVING AREAS GENERAL ANALYSIS

TO BACKYARD LIVING

DESIGN 2 The enlargement of the openings emphasizes the visual connection between rooms without losing the sense of separation between them. The kitchen and dining area share a common space, but the location of the kitchen island defines the two spaces.

TV KITCHEN

NEW HEADER TO LAUNDRY AND GARAGE

The sliding doors in the dining room provide privacy to the space and flexibility for access to the guest bathroom via the foyer area.

TO BEDROOMS

COAT CLOSET

FOYER

DINING

GUEST BATHROOM

ENTRY TO BACKYARD

DESIGN 3 The removal of the existing partition walls provides a better traffic flow between the spaces and more flexibility to accommodate furniture. You can easily convert the dining room into a living room and vice versa. On the downside, open floor plans don't provide a sense of privacy, and the spaces are visually hard to control and define.

KITCHEN LIVING

TO LAUNDRY AND GARAGE

Because of the removal of load bearing walls, a structural beam may be required to support the ceiling and roof structure, which could increase the cost of the project.

NEW BEAM

TO BEDROOMS

COAT CLOSET

DINING ENTRY



GUEST BATHROOM

LIVING AREAS GENERAL ANALYSIS DESIGN 4 The compact version of the open floor plan. The front door opens directly to the living areas with no transitional space.

TO BEDROOMS

KITCHEN

TV

To control the space of this open layout, the furniture and the placement of rugs help define the dining room and living room areas.

LIVING

You can find this type of compact layout in small houses and apartment buildings.

DINING

ENTRY

KITCHEN

DESIGN 5 The compact version of a typical closed floor plan. An opening creates a virtual connection between the living room and dining room, generating two formal spaces. A door connects the kitchen with the dining room, creating a sense of privacy.

KITCHEN

DESIGN 6 One single space shared by living room and dining room.

DINING

DINING

As in design 4, the furniture and rugs help define the two spaces.

TO BEDROOMS

As in design 5, a door connects the kitchen with the dining room, creating a sense of privacy.

TV

LIVING

ENTRY

TO BEDROOMS

TV

LIVING

ENTRY



LIVING AREAS GENERAL ANALYSIS TO BACKYARD

KITCHEN DINING

KITCHEN

DINING

TO BEDROOMS TO BEDROOMS TV TV LIVING LIVING

ENTRY

ENTRY

DESIGN 7 Elongated version of the open floor plan.

DESIGN 8 The same space as in design 7 but with the kitchen at the end of the space.

The location of the kitchen in the middle of the space creates a partial separation between the living room and dining room.

The placement of the furniture in the living room emphasizes a linear traffic path on one side of the room.

The addition of a large opening at the back provides plenty of natural light.

The location of the kitchen limits the number of doors and windows.



LIVING AREAS

FOYER / ENTRY HALL DESIGN

A foyer is a small transitional area that connects the home entrance with the rest of the interior. It is the first space you see when you walk into a home, and it is where you greet your guests. Originally, "foyer" was a French term used to refer to a space where actors waited when they were not on stage. Foyers are sometimes provided with a small closet where you can store coats and jackets, umbrellas, boots, and dog-walking supplies. If large enough, the space may also serve to place a small bench or table as a decorative piece or to drop your mail and packages. As it is the first space when you enter your house, a foyer should feel welcoming.

FOYER SIGHTLINES AND FOCAL POINTS

One of the most fascinating things during the design process, is that you can control what you see from any given point in the home. Imagine opening the front door of your house and having a series of points of interest that draw your eyes along the travel route within the house. Sightlines and focal points can make a significant impact on how you sense the space in your house.

FOCAL POINT FOCAL POINT

SIGHTLINE HOUSE ENTRANCE

SIGHTLINE A sightline is an unobstructed imaginary straight line extending from your eye to the objects or areas you see. Great sightlines lead your eyes to multiple points of interest.

FOCAL POINT A focal point is an area in a room that immediately captures the viewer's attention. Symmetry and the use of an architectural feature combined with textures and colors helps to emphasize that specific area.



LIVING AREAS FIREPLACES AS FOCAL POINTS

Fireplaces are mainly used as a source of heat to warm a space in your home. Nowadays, with the conveniences of modern heating systems, the necessity fireplaces has become, in some cases, almost obsolete. However, that hasn't stopped their use as the main focal point of a living room.

OPEN HEARTH

GAS STOVE

HUNG FROM ROOF

PREWAY

WOOD BURNING STOVE

CORNER

CHIMNEY AS FOCAL POINT In this layout, the location of the fireplace instantly draws your eye once you pass the foyer area.

TO BEDROOMS

ENTRY

The opening leading to the living room and the two windows on each side of the chimney provide symmetry to the composition and emphasize its presence and hierarchy. The location of the fireplace also defines the furniture arrangement in the room and how you are going to use and circulate in the space.

SHELVES

COAT CLOSET OPENING IS CENTERED WITH FIREPLACE

DINING

FIRE PLACE



LIVING AREAS DOORS AND WINDOWS AS FOCAL POINTS

KITCHEN

LARGE SLIDING GLASS DOOR

NICHE AND GLASS DOOR AS A FOCAL POINT In this layout, two focal points unconsciously persuade you to move through the spaces, generating a sense of procession and guiding you where to go next.

TO BEDROOMS COAT CLOSET

After you enter the house, a niche centered with the foyer space immediately draws your eye, and when turning to the left, the large sliding doors in the dining area get your attention, inviting you to move from the foyer to the living room.

NICHE

Centering the foyer opening with the large glass door also creates symmetry and hierarchy, emphasizing the desired effect. LIVING

ENTRY

LARGE BAY WINDOW

TO BEDROOMS

WINDOWS AS A FOCAL POINT Large windows make a great focal point to any room, especially if you have a fantastic view.

DINING

COAT CLOSET ENTRY

From the foyer area, the first thing you notice is natural light coming from the living room and dining room areas, inviting you to walk into these rooms and sit there.

LIVING LIVING

LARGE PICTURE WINDOW CENTERED WITH LIVING ROOM



LIVING AREAS DOORS AND WINDOWS AS FOCAL POINTS LARGE PICTURE WINDOW DINING

DINING NOOK AS A FOCAL POINT The intention in this design was to draw the attention towards the dining nook from the foyer. Despite the large picture window being placed a considerable distance from the foyer, its size and location bring a large amount of natural light, making that area the main point of attraction.

KITCHEN

LIVING

ENTRY

BENCH AND SHELVES



TO BEDROOMS

LIVING AREAS FOYER SIGHTLINES - MISTAKES AND SOLUTIONS

GUEST BATHROOM

COAT CLOSET

THE PROBLEM

ENTRY

DESIGN 1 - The Problem The location of plumbing fixtures can have a big impact on sightlines. In this floor plan, the guest bathroom opens off the foyer area, exposing the toilet directly from the main door.

RELOCATED PLUMBING FIXTURES

RELOCATED WINDOW DRAWS THE ATTENTION OF A PERSON IN THE FOYER AREA IN CASE BATHROOM DOOR REMAINS OPEN

RELOCATED COAT CLOSET

THE SOLUTION ENTRY

DESIGN 1 - The Solution By relocating the existing coat closet, we create a small transitional hallway area for more privacy. The rearrangement of the plumbing fixtures against the back wall of the bathroom, helps hide the view from the entry door to the toilet.



LIVING AREAS FOYER SIGHTLINES - MISTAKES AND SOLUTIONS

COAT CLOSET

GUEST BATHROOM

THE PROBLEM ENTRY

DESIGN 2 - The Problem Same problem as in design one. The door of the guest bathroom opens directly into the foyer and main door areas.

COAT CLOSET BENCH AND SHELVES NICHE

ENTRY

GUEST BARHOOM

THE SOLUTION

DESIGN 2 - The Solution Similar solution as in design 1. By rotating the guest bathroom and coat closet, we create a transitional space that allows privacy and separation. Adding a niche also generates a focal point that draws the attention to that area.



LIVING AREAS

LIVING ROOM DESIGN

When designing a living room, adequate floor and wall sapce are necessary in order to arrange furniture and generate circulation paths. The use of focal points also defines how the furniture is placed in the room and how you are going to use and circulate in the space.

FOCAL POINTS IN LIVING ROOMS CONSOLE TABLE

PICTURE WINDOW

FIRE PLACE

USE OF A PICTURE WINDOW AND A CONSOLE TABLE

CONSOLE TABLE

FLUE PIPE ENCLOSURE

USE OF A FIRE PLACE WITH AN ACCENT COLOR OR TEXTURE TO CREATE CONTRAST

CONTRASTING BACKGROUND

ACCENT WALL

USE OF DIFFERENT MATERIALS AND TEXTURES AS A BACKGROUND FOR FURNITURE

NICHE WITH SHELVES

USE OF A NICHE WITH SHELVES WITH A CONTRASTING BACKGROUND



LIVING AREAS FURNITURE DIMENSIONS 104” 264cm 38” 97cm 65” 165cm 17” 43cm CHAISE SECTIONAL SOFA

60” 152cm

CHAISE SECTIONAL SOFA

24” 61cm

30” 76cm

24” 61cm COFFEE TABLE

90” 229cm

20” 51cm

END TABLE

COFFEE TABLE

25” 64cm

38” 97cm

28” 71cm THREE-SEATER SOFA

66” 168cm

END TABLE

20” 51cm END TABLE

35” 89cm

38” 97cm

35” 89cm

TWO-SEATER SOFA

ARMCHAIR



17” 43cm SOFA - ARMCHAIR

LIVING AREAS FURNITURE CLEARANCE IN LIVING ROOMS

Circulation is an important part of planning a layout for a living room. The arrangement should enable you to move around the space and also move from one room to another. Providing adequate clearance space between furniture and objects creates those necessary passageways for high and low traffic flow.

4” (10cm) MIN BETWEEN SEAT AND OTTOMAN

36” (91cm) MIN HIGH TRAFFIC PASSAGEWAYS

36” (91cm) MIN HIGH TRAFFIC PASSAGEWAYS

10” (25cm) MIN BETWEEN CHAIRS AND SOFAS

36” (91cm) MIN HIGH TRAFFIC PASSAGEWAYS

22” (56cm) MIN BETWEEN OBJECTS

12”-18” (30cm-46cm) BETWEEN SEAT AND COFFEE TABLE

12”-18” (30cm-46cm) BETWEEN SEAT AND COFFEE TABLE

RECOMMENDED MINIMUM CLEARANCES High traffic passageways

36" (min) 91cm (min)

Low traffic passageways

22" (min) 56cm (min)

Between the front of a sofa, armchair, and coffee table

12" (min) 30cm (min)

Between chairs and sofas

10" (min) 25cm (min)



LIVING AREAS CONVERSATION AREA AND CIRCULATION PATH IN LIVING ROOMS

A conversation area is a seating area arranged in a way that encourages social interaction. The maximum distance for a seated person having a comfortable conversation with others is between 7'-0" (2.1m) and 9'-0" (2.7m). Anything bigger than this will require you to start raising your voice.

7’ -0 2. ” t 1m o to 9’2. 0” 7m (M (M AX AX .) .)

36” 91cm

7’-0” to 9’-0” (MAX.) 2.1m to 2.7m (MAX.)

12”-18” (30cm-46cm) BETWEEN SEAT AND COFFEE TABLE



36” 91cm

LIVING AREAS HDTV VIEWING DISTANCES IN LIVING ROOMS

One important thing to consider when buying a TV is the size of your living room. A larger TV only improves your watching experience if you have enough space in your home to mount it and sit far enough away. The following distances apply to High Definition TVs.

43” TV 5.5’ TO 9’ (1.7m TO 2.7m) 50” TV 6.5’ TO 10.5’ (2m TO 3.2m) 55” TV 7’ TO 11.5’ (2.1m TO 3.5m) 65” TV 8’ TO 13.5’ (2.4m TO 4.1m) 75” TV 9.5’ TO 15.5’ (2.9m TO 4.7m)

LINE OF SIGHT

TV STAND HEIGHT

TV STAND HEIGHT

+ HALF TV’S HEIGHT



LIVING AREAS CHOOSING THE RIGHT RUG FOR YOUR LIVING ROOM

The living room is a space where you typically spend a lot of time with your family and friends to socialize or watch TV. The use of a rug can help layer the room's decor, add warmth, add texture, and anchor the space.

RUG SIZES 10’x14’ (3m x 4.3m) 9’x12’ (2.7m x 3.7m) 8’x10’ (2.4m x 3m)

8’x10’ (2.4m x 3m) 6’x9’ (1.8m x 2.7m) 5’x8’ (1.5m x 2.4m) 4’x6’ (1.2m x 1.8m)

5’x8’ (1.5m x 2.4m)

6’x9’ (1.8m x 2.7m)



LIVING AREAS CHOOSING THE RIGHT RUG FOR YOUR LIVING ROOM RUG SIZES 10’x14’ (3m x 4.3m) 9’x12’ (2.7m x 3.7m) 8’x10’ (2.4m x 3m) 8’x10’ (2.4m x 3m)

6’x9’ (1.8m x 2.7m) 5’x8’ (1.5m x 2.4m) 4’x6’ (1.2m x 1.8m)

TV 9’x12’ (2.7m x 3.7m)

10’x14’ (3m x 4.3m)

TV 9’x12’ (2.7m x 3.7m) 10’x14’ (3m x 4.3m)



LIVING AREAS FURNITURE ARRANGEMENTS IN LIVING ROOMS TO SLEEPING AREAS

DESIGN 1 Having two doorways at opposite corners of a room makes it challenging to create a good circulation path and seating layout for the space. A circular arrangement is the perfect solution for this type of situation, which creates a curved circulation path behind the seating area.

HIGH TRAFFIC PASSAGEWAYS

DESK 36” 91cm

What is great about this design is that all chairs are angled in towards each other, making the layout perfect for easy conversation. An optional space for a desk and a shelving unit along one of the walls adds extra functionality.

36” 91cm

TO DINING AND KITCHEN

CONVERSATION AREA 7’-0” to 9’-0” (MAX.) 2.1m to 2.7m (MAX.)

TO SLEEPING AREAS

DESIGN 2 Similar location of doorways at opposite corners as in design one. The use of a bigger rectangular coffee table and end tables does not allow a circular arrangement, making the space too tight to add more armchairs.

” 36 m 91c

With this arrangement, the circulation passageway is kept comfortable in width.

36” 91cm

TO DINING AND KITCHEN



DESK

HIGH TRAFFIC PASSAGEWAYS

LIVING AREAS FURNITURE ARRANGEMENTS IN LIVING ROOMS TO SLEEPING AREAS

DESK

DESIGN 3 The best placement of a circulation path for a small living room is usually straight through. In this layout, the circulation path right in the middle of the living room divides the space into two areas.

36” 91cm

On one half, we have the seating and conversation area, and on the other half, we have space for a small lounge area and a desk. The lack of space due to the circulation in the middle of the room limits the furniture arrangement options. TO DINING AND KITCHEN

CONVERSATION AREA 7’-0” to 9’-0” (MAX.) 2.1m to 2.7m (MAX.)

TO SLEEPING AREAS

3 91 6” cm

DESIGN 4 We can transform how we feel, the space by just switching the layout and the seating from design 3. The addition of one more armchair to the arrangement also changes the circulation path from straight to curved and allows space for a desk and a shelving unit along the east wall.

DESK

36” 91cm

TO DINING AND KITCHEN



LIVING AREAS FURNITURE ARRANGEMENTS IN LIVING ROOMS CONVERSATION AREA 7’-0” to 9’-0” (MAX.) 2.1m to 2.7m (MAX.)

DESIGN 5 When designing a conversation area, you don’t necessarily have to worry about having the pieces up against a wall.

TO BACKYARD

TO DINING AND KITCHEN

Furniture can be floating in the middle of the room like in this design, where the sitting area takes the center space of the room, leaving space for the circulation path around the furniture set. 36” 91cm

HIGH TRAFFIC PASSAGEWAYS

DESIGN 6 An arrangement for watching TV requires a specific distance between the TV unit and the seating area depending on the size of the screen. This arrangement leaves space for the circulation path behind the sofas.

TV

TO BACKYARD

36” 91cm

36” 91cm

HIGH TRAFFIC PASSAGEWAYS



TO DINING AND KITCHEN

LIVING AREAS

DINING ROOM DESIGN

There are two types of dining rooms: the dining room as an enclosed formal room, and the dining area as part of an open concept floor plan where it shares the same space with the living room or kitchen. Open floor plans have become very popular since the 90s, and most new houses in North America incorporate this concept due to its high demand. Formal dining rooms are rumored to be disappearing and are being replaced by the open concept. The truth is, the formal dining room is still alive, and the idea of gathering around a table in a separate room to share a meal is still something many people find enjoyable and more practical. You can definitely still find the formal dining room in old houses, but these days, the trend is also to take a more casual approach to gathering for day-to-day family meals. In some cases, the use of kitchen tables, kitchen islands, and breakfast nooks has made the formal dining room reserved for special occasions but still in use.

IDEAL DINING TABLE SIZES

The ideal dining table size is determined by the combination of two zones: the required personal area that you need while having a meal, and the shared space for condiments, serving dishes, trays, and decorations. Here, I am showing two recommended sizes as a reference. The first one is for regular use, and the second one is for sharing a big meal or for a special occasion. 20” 51cm

24” 61cm

24” 61cm

20” 51cm

SHARED AREA

PERSONAL AREA

24” 61cm

40” 102cm

24” 61cm

5” 13cm 15” 38cm 88” 224cm MINIMUM DINING TABLE SIZE FOR 6

MINIMUM SPACE DIMENSIONS FOR ONE PERSON

IDEAL DIMENSIONS FOR A DINING TABLE FOR SIX Based on the personal and shared areas, we come up with 40”X78”(102cmX198cm). You can still make a 36”X72” workable for six people, but it would be the minimum you can go.



LIVING AREAS IDEAL DINING TABLE SIZES 18” 46cm

SHARED AREA

30” 76cm

30” 76cm

18” 46cm

PERSONAL AREA

30” 76cm

54” 137cm

30” 76cm

9” 23cm 18” 46cm

96” 244cm MINIMUM DINING TABLE SIZE FOR 6

MINIMUM SPACE DIMENSIONS FOR ONE PERSON

IDEAL DIMENSIONS FOR A SIX PERSON DINING TABLE TO ENJOY A LARGE MEAL Sharing big meals for special occasions or having large family gatherings means that you need a large table. With a 54”X96” (137cmX244cm) table, the extra shared area and more personal space allows for more cutlery, dishes, glasses, and big serving dishes.



LIVING AREAS DINING ROOM TABLE DIMENSIONS

42” 107cm

36” 91cm

30” 76cm

30” 76cm

2 PEOPLE

8 PEOPLE

4 PEOPLE 60” 152cm

48” 122cm

72” 183cm

48” 122cm

36” 91cm

30” 76cm

96” 244cm

36” 91cm

6 PEOPLE

4 PEOPLE

48” 122cm 36” 91cm

3 PEOPLE

7 PEOPLE 72” 183cm

60” 152cm

4 PEOPLE

9 PEOPLE



4 PEOPLE

LIVING AREAS CHOOSING THE RIGHT RUG FOR YOUR DINING TABLE

The use of rugs for dining tables is not intended just to protect the floor or to provide visual appeal to the area. Rugs also help to define and anchor the space around the table, especially in open floor plans, where sometimes the dining area is integrated with the living room or kitchen. The basic rule is to choose a rug that matches the shape of your dining table. Make sure the rug is at least two to three feet away from each side of the dining table; you could go even larger if you want. The reason for this is that the dining chairs should never go off the edge of the rug when you pull them out to sit down or stand up.

48” 122cm

30” 76cm

30” 76cm

48” 122cm

48” 122cm

30” 76cm



LIVING AREAS DINING ROOM ARRANGEMENTS AND CIRCULATION

48” 122cm

TO LIVING

DESIGN 1 Circulation path around a table for a small dining room.

TO KITCHEN

48” 122cm

48” 122cm

48” 122cm

48” 122cm

48” 122cm

DESIGN 2 Circulation path around a table placed in a corner of a dining room.

TO LIVING

36” 91cm

48” 122cm

32” 81cm

48” 122cm

TO LIVING

36” 91cm

TO KITCHEN

48” 122cm

48” 122cm

DESIGN 3 Circulation path around a table for a dining nook.

32” 81cm

48” 122cm

TO KITCHEN

48” 122cm

DESIGN 4 Circulation path around a table for a medium size dining room.



LIVING AREAS

GUEST BATHROOM DESIGN

Guest bathrooms are small bathrooms with a toilet and lavatory, usually located on the main level of a house. As the name implies they are commonly used by guests, but also by family members because they are conveniently to be located near the living areas. The following are typical layouts of guest 36” 91cm

60” 152cm

36” 91cm

22” 56cm

30” 76cm

54” 137cm

32” 81cm

60” 152cm 30” 76cm

22” 56cm

72” 183cm DESIGN 1

38” 97cm

DESIGN 2

60” 152cm

72” 183cm 22” 56cm

30” 76cm 60” 152cm 30” 76cm

22” 56cm

38” 97cm

DESIGN 4

DESIGN 3

60” 152cm

52” 131cm

30” 76cm

18” 46cm

36” 91cm

78” 198cm DESIGN 5



LIVING AREAS WHAT IS THE BEST LOCATION FOR A GUEST BATHROOM?

Guest bathrooms are usually at a centralized location and near the living areas for easy access for family members and guests. In some cases, these are located near the foyer area. There is not much space needed for this type of bathroom, and we are allowed to overlap the minimum required clear spaces in front of fixtures because the bathroom is not required to be accessible to multiple users simultaneously. DINING ROOM HALLWAY

A FOYER

LIVING ROOM

60” 152cm

A

84” 213cm

UP

SECTION A-A

ENTRY

UNDER STAIRS One of the best ways to maximize the space in your house is by adding a guest bathroom under your staircase. Always make sure that you have enough recommended clearance space to comply with your local building codes. TO BEDROOMS TO BEDROOMS HALLWAY

UP

UP

FOYER

DINING ROOM

DINING ROOM

LIVING ROOM

LIVING ROOM

FOYER

ENTRY

ENTRY

HALLWAY Locating your guest bathroom in your sleeping area could become a privacy problem. Although you don’t have guests in your house all the time, always consider a transitional space like a small hallway to divide the sleeping areas with the private areas.

FOYER Having a bathroom by the entrance makes it convenient for your family and guests to wash up after entering the home. Always try to make sure the bathroom doesn’t open directly to the entry to avoid a direct view of the toilet.



LIVING AREAS GUEST BATHROOM DESIGN SIGHTLINE ANALYSIS

Let’s be honest: some family members don’t always close the door to the bathroom when they are finished using it, and at the same time, it is not nice to be greeted by your toilet while you walk down a hallway. However, if there is not enough space to hide the toilet, you need to make sure what your priorities are. These designs show different options utilizing the same space for a small guest bathroom in a narrow hallway. The type of door and the swing direction become key factors to the functionality and the way we sense the space.

DESIGN 2 We solved the problem of the lack of space by opening the door outwards, but now, when you keep the door open, the toilet is in the sightline from the hallway.

TO BEDROOMS

DESIGN 1 Every time you walk down the hallway, the first thing you are going to see is the toilet, and at the same time, the door opening inwards does not leave much room for the user.

DESIGN 3 The inward swing causes the door to collide with the toilet, making the room appear smaller than it already is. Not the best solution.

TO BEDROOMS

TO BEDROOMS

TO LIVING

DESIGN 4 While this collision does not happen that often, an open door in a small hallway can be very annoying, especially for heavy traffic pathways.

TO BEDROOMS

DESIGN 5 A pocket door provides an alternative solution to the lack of space. The visibility of the toilet becomes secondary when we make comfort a priority.



TO BEDROOMS

Chapter 4

SLEEPING AREAS



SLEEPING AREAS

BEDROOM ARRANGEMENTS

The most private area of your house are the spaces that you don’t want your guests to see. These spaces are mostly the bedrooms, personal bathrooms, and in some cases, dens and home offices where only family are allowed into these spaces. In a well-designed house, you would find a logical sequence of spaces where you find public, semi-private, and private areas separated from each other. Providing a bedroom hallway to separate these spaces from your private and semi-private areas is crucial to create a sense of privacy and comfort for your family members. DESIGN 1 A typical bedroom arrangement with a straight hallway leading to all bedrooms on both sides. In this design, I placed the doors as far as possible from the living room and dining room for privacy. If your proposed design provides only one full bathroom for three bedrooms, try placing it a centralized area for easy access, as shown in this layout.

PRIMARY BED. BATH. DINING

CL.

CL.

LINEN

BED. 2

LIVING

It is also very convenient if two bathrooms share the same plumbing wall, but don’t make this a non-negotiable; make sure to understand the priorities in your design.

CL. CL. BED. 1

DESIGN 2 Similar arrangement to design 1. A straight hallway leading to all bedrooms on both sides.

BED. 1 DINING PRIMARY BED.

The primary bedroom is larger and has extra space for a sitting area. The remaining three bedrooms are slightly smaller than in layout one. The bathroom is in a centralized location for easy access from the three bedrooms.

GUEST BATH.

CL.

CL. LIVING

BATH. BED. 3



CL.

BED. 2

SLEEPING AREAS BEDROOM ARRANGEMENTS BED. 1

GUEST BATH.

CL.

LAUND. W

BED. 2

D

W/D

CLOSET

CLOSET

CLOSET

BED. 2

BED. 1 DESIGN 3 Two-bedroom arrangement with one full bathroom and a laundry closet facing the hallway. You can use this type of arrangement for designing small apartments.

BED. 3

DESIGN 4 Three-bedroom arrangement with one full bathroom, a small laundry room, and a guest bathroom. You can apply this arrangement for designing small houses.

BED. 1 W CL.

BED. 1 CL.

D CL.

CLOSET

CLOSET

BED. 2

BED. 2

DESIGN 6 Two-bedroom, one-bathroom layout like design 5, with a larger bedroom 1 and no laundry closet.

DESIGN 5 Smaller version of the two-bedroom, one-bathroom layout. You can use this type of arrangement for designing small apartments.



SLEEPING AREAS PROVIDING PRIVACY TO SLEEPING AREAS

This technique is simple. If you want to create a sense of privacy between the sleeping areas and the living areas, you have to create a transitional space between them.

NO HALLWAY PROVIDED

HALLWAY PROVIDED

HALLWAY PROVIDED

HALLWAY PROVIDED



SLEEPING AREAS

BEDROOM DESIGN

How do you know when a room can be legally called a bedroom? Here in North America, the legal term is based on the minimum size of the room, the minimum size of the openings required to provide emergency escape, natural light and ventilation, and how the room is connected with the rest of the house and the exterior.

REQUIREMENTS ARE BASED ON THE 2019 CALIFORNIA BUILDING CODE

IN BEDROOMS, PROVIDE OPERABLE ESCAPE WINDOWS (AT LEAST ONE IN EACH BEDROOM) MEETING ALL OF THE FOLLOWING:

PLEASE MAKE SURE TO CHECK YOUR LOCAL BUILDING CODES. BUILDING CODES DIFFER FROM COUNTRY TO COUNTRY.

A NET CLEAR OPENABLE AREA NOT LESS THAN 5.7 SF. (0.53m2) EXCEPTION: 5 SF (0.46m2) MIN. ALLOWED IF LOCATED AT GRADE FLOOR OR BELOW GRADE - A MINIMUM CLEAR OPENING HEIGHT OF 24” (61cm) - A MINIMUM CLEAR OPENING WIDTH OF 20” (51cm) - A SILL HEIGHT NOT OVER 44” (112cm) ABOVE THE FLOOR

HEATING MUST BE CAPABLE TO MAINTAIN 68F (20C) OF ROOM TEMPERATURE

44” 112cm (MAX)

DOOR CANNOT OPEN DIRECTLY TO GARAGE 90” 229cm (MIN)

10’-0” 3.0m MINIMUM AREA OF BEDROOM SHOULD BE 70 SF (6.5m2) MINIMUM HORIZONTAL DIMENSION OF BEDROOM SHOULD BE 7’-0” (2.13m) ON ANY DIRECTION

7’-0” 2.13m (MINIMUM)



SLEEPING AREAS PROVIDING NATURAL CROSS VENTILATION TO BEDROOMS

The purpose for this strategy is very simple. To clean and change the air of your bedroom, you have to open your windows, but also your door. High accumulation of CO2 reduces cognitive ability. You can do this during the morning while not using the bedrooms. It doesn’t have to be done permanently; a few minutes per day is enough.

ONLY WINDOWS OPENED When it comes to ventilating a bedroom, most people only open the window with the bedroom door closed.

WINDOWS AND DOORS OPENED The idea is to create a path for the air to pass through, opening the doors and windows of the opposite rooms.



SLEEPING AREAS BEDROOM FURNITURE AND CLEARANCES 36” (91cm) RECOMMENDED TRAFFIC PATTERN FOR CLOSET

24” MIN 61cm MIN

KING

DIMENSIONS AROUND ONE BED

30” TO 36” (76cm to 91cm) IN FRONT OF CHEST DRAWERS

24” TO 36” (61cm to 91cm) RECOMMENDED BETWEEN BEDS

36” (91cm) RECOMMENDED TRAFFIC PATTERN FOR CLOSET

DESK 48” TO 60” (122cm TO 152cm) RECOMMENDED TRAFFIC BETWEEN BED AND DESK TWIN

TWIN

DIMENSIONS AROUND TWO BEDS

30” TO 36” (76cm to 91cm) IN FRONT OF CHEST DRAWERS



SLEEPING AREAS

CALIFORNIA KING

KING 76” 200cm

TWIN 38” 97cm

72” 183cm

80” 203cm

75” 190cm

60” 152cm

75” 191cm

QUEEN

84” 213cm

80” 203cm

80” 203cm

BED SIZES AND HDTV VIEWING DISTANCES FROM BED

TWIN XL 38” 97cm

FULL 54” 137cm

43” TV 5.5’ TO 9’ (1.7m (1.7m TO 2.7m) 50” TV 6.5’ TO 10.5’ (2m (2m TO 3.2m) 55” TV 7’ TO 11.5’ (2.1m (2.1m TO 3.5m) 65” TV 8’ TO 13.5’ (2.4m (2.4m TO 4.1m) 75” TV 9.5’ TO 15.5’ (2.9m (2.9m TO 4.7m)

LINE OF SIGHT 14” 36cm

X+ 14” X+ 36cm

X



SLEEPING AREAS SIDE BY SIDE BEDROOM LAYOUTS

In design, there are situations where you can take many advantages in terms of the efficient use of space. Having two rooms next to each other that share the same use of the space is one of them. The need for both bedrooms to have a closet and the way you access them can help you provide an efficient design solution, replicating it for both of them. Keep in mind that all these solutions have their pros and cons. 8’-7” 2.62m

3’-4” 1.02m

3’-4” 1.02m

8’-7” 2.62m

11’-7” 3.52m

2’-0” 0.61m

QUEEN

QUEEN

12’-5” 3.78m

12’-5” 3.78m

DESIGN 1 A simple design solution with closets along one of the walls. The downside about this design is that it does not provide sound control between both bedrooms, and a hallway may be needed to avoid doors opening directly to the living and dining room areas.

14’-0” 4.27m

11’-2” 3.40m

2’-0” 0.61m

QUEEN

11’-2” 3.40m

QUEEN

25’-3” 7.70m

DESIGN 2 Placing the closets along the shared wall of both bedrooms can be a very efficient solution. It helps provide sound control, but it reduces the size of the closets in length. As in design 1, a hallway may be needed to avoid doors opening directly to the living and dining room areas.



SLEEPING AREAS SIDE BY SIDE BEDROOM LAYOUTS

14’-0” 4.27m

12’-5” 3.78m

12’-5” 3.78m

QUEEN

9’-11” 3.03m

QUEEN

2’-0” 2’-0” 0.61m 0.61m

9’-11” 3.03m

DESIGN 3 Similar design solution as in design 2 but with larger closets in between both bedrooms. The bedrooms become narrower on one side because of the closets location. The access to bedrooms seems a little awkward because of the door opening directly to the closet wall.

14’-0” 4.27m

25’-3” 7.70m

QUEEN

9’-11” 3.03m

QUEEN

2’-0” 0.61m

2’-0” 0.61m

9’-11” 3.03m

DESIGN 4 This is a very efficient solution for small houses or apartments when you don’t have much space and want to provide a sense of privacy. The layout allows for a transitional space between bedrooms and the living room and dining room without the need for a hallway. Sound control is also provided by placing the closets in between the bedrooms.



SLEEPING AREAS PRIMARY BEDROOM DESIGN

The primary bedroom is the largest bedroom that has the most private and best location in the house. In some cases, a primary bedroom also has access to its own walk-in closet and a full bathroom with a vanity sink, bathtub, shower, and toilet enclosure. 16’-5” 5.01m 2’-3” 3’-0” 0.69m 0.91m

3’-10” 1.17m

2’-9” 3’-0” 0.83m 0.91m

4’-6” 1.38m

8’-7” 2.61m

WALK-IN CLOSET

18’-0” 5.19m 12’-0” 3.67m 5’-0” 1.52m

12’-0” 3.65m 5’-0” 1.52m

28’-6” 8.69m

7’-0” 2.13m

28’-6” 8.69m

WALK-IN CLOSET

17’-0” 5.19m

7’-1” 2.17m

4’-9” 1.45m

8’-7” 2.61m

6’-6” 1.98m

5’-1” 1.65m

6’-6” 1.98m

5’-10” 1.78m

4’-3” 1.28m

16’-5” 5.01m

BALCONY

BALCONY

17’-4” 5.29m

17’-4” 5.29m

PRIMARY BEDROOM - OPTION 1

PRIMARY BEDROOM - OPTION 2

DESIGN 1 Here are two design options using the same rectangular space in size. In this case, we are assuming that the entry door leads directly to a hallway. Option 1 has the walk-in closet on one side of the bedroom, which leaves a small transitional space for accessing the bathroom and the walk-in closet. Option 2 has the walk-in closet right in the middle of the bedroom, creating a passageway connecting the bathroom with the entry door.



SLEEPING AREAS PRIMARY BEDROOM DESIGN 13’-2” 4.01m

5’-0” 1.52m BALCONY

6’-4” 1.94m 4’-5” 1.35m 13’-4” 4.06m

5’-0” 1.52m

3’-0” 0.91m 30’-0” 9.14m 7’-4” 2.23m 13’-4” 4.06m

30’-0” 9.14m 5’-0” 1.52m

WALK-IN CLOSET

BALCONY

14’-3” 4.34m

14’-3” 4.34m

PRIMARY BEDROOM - OPTION 1

PRIMARY BEDROOM - OPTION 2

DESIGN 2 These two primary bedroom options also use the same rectangular space in size, but in this case, we are assuming that the entry door leads directly to a semiprivate area like a living room. Option 1 has a bathroom that is accessed by passing through a small walk-in closet. This allows for a more comfortable and larger bathroom. Option 2 has a larger walk-in closet with part of it tucked into the bathroom. This makes the bedroom area and the walk-in closet a little bigger, but sacrifices bathroom space.



5’-0” 1.52m

3’-0” 0.91m 8’-4” 2.55m

WALK-IN CLOSET

11’-9” 3.57m

6’-0” 1.83m

5’-0” 1.53m

5’-0” 1.52m

3’-6” 1.07m

5’-5” 1.66m

7’-3” 2.21m

13’-2” 4.01m 4’-3” 1.30m

SLEEPING AREAS

BATHROOM DESIGN FIXTURE CLEARANCES AND DIMENSIONS

80” (MIN.) 203cm (MIN.)

30” 76cm

60” 152cm

14” TO 16” 36cm TO 41cm

CLEARANCE TO FRONT RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm) ALCOVE BATHTUB

ALCOVE BATHTUB

72” 183cm

80” 203cm

CLEARANCE TO FRONT RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)

TOILET

SHOWER STALL

CLEARANCE TO FRONT RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm) INTERIOR CLEARANCE RECOMMENDED: 36” (91 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 30” (76 cm)

CLEARANCE TO FRONT RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm) SHOWER STALL



TOILET

CLEARANCE FROM CENTER LINE TO SIDES RECOMMENDED: 20” (51 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 15” (38 cm)

SLEEPING AREAS FIXTURE CLEARANCES AND DIMENSIONS CLEARANCE TO FRONT RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)

CLEARANCE FROM CENTER LINE TO CENTER LINE RECOMMENDED: 36” (91 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 30” (76 cm)

22” 56cm

22” 56cm

CLEARANCE FROM CENTER LINE TO SIDES RECOMMENDED: 20” (51 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 15” (38 cm) CLEARANCE TO FRONT RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)

CLEARANCE FROM CENTER LINE TO SIDES RECOMMENDED: 20” (51 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 15” (38 cm)

DOUBLE VANITY SINK

CLEARANCE TO FRONT RECOMMENDED: 30” (76 cm) MIN. REQUIRED: 24” (61 cm)

12” 30” TO 36” 76cm TO 91cm 30cm

MIRROR

60” TO 76” 152cm TO 193cm

VANITY SINK

DOUBLE VANITY SINK

VANITY SINK



SLEEPING AREAS BATHROOM DESIGN - TYPICAL LAYOUTS 36” 91cm

30” 76cm

38” 97cm

60” 153cm

22” 56cm

36” 91cm

102” 259cm

DESIGN 1 The most common layout used in residential projects. Each plumbing fixture has enough clearance space for a person and utilizes a linear single plumbing wall. Definitely the most practical of all.

30” 76cm

38” 97cm

60” 152cm

22” 56cm

72” 183cm

102” 259cm

DESIGN 2 Having a door opening directly to the toilet can feel visually awkward, but it always depends on what your priorities are. If you don’t want your door to hit the toilet and want to give priority to more storage space, then the visual aspect can become secondary.



SLEEPING AREAS BATHROOM DESIGN - TYPICAL LAYOUTS 38” 95cm

30” 76cm

60” 152cm

30” 76cm

102” 259cm

DESIGN 3 The addition of a toilet enclosure could be a good solution for a large family with kids where multiple people need to use the bathroom in a small house. While one person is taking a shower, the other one can use the toilet at the same time.

30” 76cm

60” 152cm

30” 76cm

102” 259cm

22” 56cm

80” 203cm

DESIGN 4 This design prioritizes space in front of the toilet, sink, and plenty of room for a person getting out of the tub / shower. The door opens inwards with easy access to the most utilized plumbing fixtures.



SLEEPING AREAS BATHROOM DESIGN 30” 76cm

22” 56cm

60” 152cm

36” 91cm

22” 56cm

36” 91cm

52” 132cm

30” 76cm 93” 235cm

89” 225cm

48” 122cm

36” 91cm

36” 91cm

112” 284cm 16” 41cm

93” 235cm

40” 102cm

DESIGN 1 Efficient linear flow and enough space for circulation. The location of the toilet is not visually appealing, but the overall layout works well with extra counter space.

DESIGN 2 Efficient layout as in design 1 but with a larger footprint and an “L” shaped type of flow. The shower is larger, and the toilet is concealed far from the entry. The downside in this design could be the use of three different plumbing walls.

30” 76cm

24” 61cm

30” 76cm

36” 91cm

30” 76cm

52” 132cm

22” 56cm

68” 171cm

72” 183cm

108” 274cm

102” 259cm

DESIGN 4 The most compact full bathroom floor plan. Part of this bathroom could be placed tucked in underneath the stairs if you get enough headroom clearance for the toilet.

DESIGN 3 Pocket sliding doors are not the most practical solution. Over time, tracks could be damaged and rollers might be worn out, but they still offer an alternate solution for small bathroom design.



SLEEPING AREAS PRIMARY BATHROOM DESIGN 144” 365cm

118” 300cm

27” 68cm

36” 91cm

65” 165cm

54” 137cm

29” 73cm

72” 183cm 168” 427cm

36” 91cm

38” 97cm

75” 190cm

95” 242cm 38” 97cm

Keep in mind that a significant amount of space is needed for these types of designs. The cost is also elevated due to the quantity of finishes for a large bathroom and the types of plumbing fixtures you will be using.

84” 212cm

22” 56cm

44” 112m

DESIGN 2 The luxury version of the primary bathroom. This design has a freestanding tub, a double vanity sink, a large shower, a toilet with a glass enclosure, and plenty of storage.

36” 91cm

69” 176cm



18” 46cm

75” 191cm

135” 343cm

Things that could be improved in this design are the awkward shape of the toilet enclosure and the entry door colliding with the glass shower enclosure and the closet door.

24” 62cm

DESIGN 1 A medium size bathroom for a primary bedroom. The bathtub is centrally placed next to a picture window where you can enjoy a nice view. The toilet enclosure allows for two people to use the bathroom at the same time.

12” 30cm

72” 183cm

22” 56cm

60” 152cm

SLEEPING AREAS PRIMARY BATHROOM DESIGN 144” 366cm 16” 40cm

RAINFALL SHOWERHEAD

72” 182cm

NICHE

52” 132cm

88” 223cm

36” 91cm

56” 142cm

PICTURE WINDOW

FREE STANDING TUB

BENCH

36” 91cm

72” 182cm

36” 91cm

CURBLESS SHOWER

WALL HUNG TOILET FLOATING VANITY WITH SHELF BELOW

DESIGN 3 The location of the plumbing fixtures on each side of the space allows the creation of a center aisle, generating an efficient linear flow. Although the circulation space may feel cramped, the bathroom fulfills its basic purpose.

144” 366cm 72” 183cm

RAINFALL SHOWER HEAD

WETROOM

88” 223cm

66” 167cm

22” 56cm

72” 183cm

MEDICINE CABINET WITH MIRROR

PICTURE WINDOW

FREE STANDING TUB

NICHE

36” 91cm

36” 91cm

72” 183cm

FLOATING VANITY WITH SHELF BELOW

LINEAR DRAIN WALL HUNG TOILET

DESIGN 4 Wet rooms are considered a high-end bathroom option, but in some cases, they can be a solution for small spaces. This bathroom has the exact dimensions as in design 3, yet the space seems bigger. The biggest challenge for a wet room is that the entire room enclosure gets wet, so it needs to be entirely waterproofed.



KITCHEN AREA

Chapter 5

KITCHEN AREA



KITCHEN AREA

KITCHEN DESIGN

If we want to go back to the most basic concepts of a kitchen, we will have to go to the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. At that time, family life was developed around a single source of heat, which could be a fireplace or a coal oven. This single source of heat was used to warm the room and was also used for cooking; therefore, all daily activities such as sleeping, eating, and hanging out were carried out in a single space.

THE DIAGRAM PLAN THAT CHANGED IT ALL

The first gas stoves were developed in the 1820s, but it wasn't until the early 20th century that they became widespread on the European Continent and in the United States. This was a huge game changer in the design of new houses. People could have two sources of heat in two different places instead of one; therefore, the design opportunities for a new house became broader. In 1926, Austrian architect Margarete Schtte-Lihotzky came up with the diagram that revolutionized how kitchens are designed nowdays, the "Frankfurt Kitchen". The design began as part of a project for ten thousand social housing units, but it has defined the concept of the kitchen as we understand it to this day. The main idea of the “Frankfurt Kitchen” was to separate the cooking area in one single space based on contemporary theories about efficiency, hygiene, and workflow. In planning the design, Margarete conducted detailed time-motion studies and interviews with housewives and women’s groups. She measured to the millimeter the dimensions that everything had to have to minimize the number of steps you take to complete each task.

11’-3” 3.44 m DOOR 1

2

3

4

5

7 2’-10” 0.86m

6’-2” 1.87m

1. GAS STOVE 2. COUNTERTOP 3. COOK BOX 4. FOLD-DOWN IRONING BOARD 5. FOOD CUPBOARD 6. SWIVEL STOOL 7. WORK SURFACE 8. GARBAGE DRAWER 9. DRAINING BOARD 10. SINK 11. ALUMINUM STORAGE BINS 12. CUPBOARD FOR POTS AND PANS 13. BROOM CLOSET 14. HEATER 15. PULL-OUT BOARDS

6 8

15 13

12

FRANKFURT KITCHEN



11

10

10

9

KITCHEN AREA THE KITCHEN TRIANGLE

The idea is that the total distance of the triangle's three sides (the perimeter) should measure greater than 12 feet (3.7 m) and less than 26 feet (7.9 m), ensuring that no side is greater than 9 feet (2.7 m) or less than 4 feet (1.2 m). The triangle flow should not be interrupted with cabinetry or furniture. When I was in architecture school, I was taught that when designing a kitchen, the workflow was very important and consisted of taking the food out of the refrigerator, washing it, chopping it, and finally, cooking it. Times change, and kitchens have become more modern with increasingly sophisticated appliances, and its use changes from person to person. Nowadays, I don't think that all designs must be based on the workflow of the working triangle, but it is a good point to start your design. Before designing a kitchen, always plan how you or your clients are going to use the space. It is recommended that you create a list and ask several questions:

4’ 1.4 -9” 5m

The kitchen triangle concept was developed in 1940 and was designed “to maximize the efficiency” with only a few appliances available at that time: the refrigerator, the sink, and the stove. 6’-9” 2.06m m 2.74 9’-0”

WORK TRIANGLE - “L” SHAPED

7’0” 7’- 3m 2.13 0” 2.1 2.44m m

8’-0”

WORK TRIANGLE - GALLEY

• Do I want it to be enclosed in a separate room? • Do you want it to be part of an open floor plan?

• Do you like to entertain and have family and people over for parties?

” -7 5’ 0m 1.7

• How many people are going to cook at the same time?

7’ 2.1 -2” 8m

• How often do you cook and for how many • people?

2.13m 7’-0”

WORK TRIANGLE - “U” SHAPED



KITCHEN AREA TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS

GALLEY KITCHEN A galley kitchen consists of two parallel walls with base cabinets, wall cabinets, appliances, and counters arranged on both sides of a long central walkway. This is a great option if you have little space for your kitchen; however, if there is not much space between counters, it could cause congestion if it is used by more than one or two people at the same time.

FRIDGE

SINK

75” 191cm

24” 61cm

m

49

4c

24” 61cm

m

33” 84cm

12

”

5c

39” 99cm

”

61

15

36” 91cm

42” 107cm

STOVE 75” + 61” + 49” = 185” = 15’-5” 191cm + 155cm + 124 = 470cm = 4.70m

24” 61cm

26’-0” > 15’-5” > 12’-0” 7.9m > 4.70m > 3.7m 48” 122cm



36” 91cm

48” 122cm

KITCHEN AREA TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS “U” SHAPED KITCHEN “U” shaped kitchens generally need a large space, and because they require the use of three walls, the workflow is more comfortable and efficient since the distances are shorter. Due to their shape, they require corner cabinets, and a bad design decision could result in a lot of wasted space, so it must be carefully designed. In general, Lazy Susans and pull-out shelves are the most suitable tray systems for taking advantage of these blind corners, but they can increase the cost of the project.

SINK ”

0c

27” 69cm

33” 84cm

27” 69cm

24” 61cm

66” + 55” + 81” = 202” = 16’-10” 168cm + 140cm +206cm = 514cm = 5.14m

26’-0” > 16’-10” > 12’-0”

36” 91cm

FRIDGE

18” 46cm

STOVE

60” 152cm

81” 206cm

42” 107cm

m

36” 91cm

m

”

14

8c

66

16

24” 61cm

55

7.9m > 5.14m > 3.7m



KITCHEN AREA TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS ONE-WALLED KITCHEN If you do not have much space available, a one-walled kitchen may be what you need. It makes use of minimum space, and it is typically found in lofts and studio apartments. This style places the three workstations in a single file, mounting the appliances and cabinets on one wall. The downside is that placing the workspaces beside one another would leave no space for a countertop between them. If you have enough space on the opposite side, you could add an island to this design.

30” 76cm 55” 140cm

STOVE

58” 147cm

SINK

FRIDGE



30” 76cm

24” 61cm

33” 84cm

24” 61cm

36” 91cm

KITCHEN AREA TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS

“G” SHAPED KITCHEN A “G” shaped kitchen is basically a “U” shaped kitchen with a peninsula at the end of one side. This type of distribution requires a larger space because of the peninsula addition. Like “U” shaped kitchens, the workflow is more comfortable and efficient since the distances are shorter.

24” 61cm

59

91” 232cm

”

STOVE

24” 61cm

36” 91cm

17” 46 cm

40” 91cm 36” 91cm

26’-0” > 16’-9” > 12’-0”

33” 84cm

36” 91cm

FRIDGE 61” + 59” + 81” = 201” = 16’-9” 155cm + 151cm +206cm = 512cm = 5.12m

33” 84cm

17” 24” 46 61cm cm

1cm

24” 61cm

15

30” 100cm

m 5c

15

61

”

SINK

33” 84cm

7.9m > 5.12m > 3.7m



KITCHEN AREA TYPICAL KITCHEN LAYOUTS “L” SHAPED WITH ISLAND In general, kitchens with islands are the ones that require the most space, since you need to have minimum space around the island depending on how many cooks are going to use the kitchen. Usually, this type of kitchen is incorporated in open floor plan designs where the island faces the living room or dining room area. The island gives you the flexibility to convert the workspace into a seating area according to the needs of your design.

FRIDGE

36” 91cm

42” 107cm

24” 61cm 42” 107cm 42” 107cm

26’-0” > 16’-0” > 12’-0”

36” 91cm

70” + 42” + 80” = 192” = 16’-0” 179cm + 107cm +203cm = 489cm = 4.89m

24” 61cm

m

SINK

24” 61cm

24” 61cm

”

7c

203cm

42” 107cm

42

STOVE

10

” 70 m 9c 17 80”

24” 61cm

7.9m > 4.89m > 3.7m

40” 102cm



24” 61cm

32” 81cm

24” 61cm

KITCHEN AREA KITCHEN WORKING ZONES

Like I mentioned before, the kitchen working triangle is a good point to start your kitchen, design but it has some limitations and doesn’t work for all kitchens. Kitchen zones are separate workspaces within a layout, each intended for a different task, and if they are well located, it can improve your workflow and efficiency. Kitchen zones are based on your own workflow and preferences, and additional zones can be added according to your needs. These may include zones for working or studying, or even a kitchen zone for watching TV.

FOOD STORAGE The food zone is the area around the refrigerator and the pantry closet where you store most of your grocery shopping food items. CLEANING The sink and the dishwasher are the central point of the cleaning area, and it is recommended to have countertop space on each side. The use of this zone is not only limited to washing dishes and utensils, but it also includes washing up vegetables, unpacking frozen items, filling up pots, etc. PREPARATION This is the countertop space where you cut, chop, knead, etc., which requires ample surface space. Keep all the cookingware and utensils that you are going to use to prepare the ingredients as close as possible to the preparation area. COOKING The cooking area is located where your range is, and it is recommended to be adjacent to your preparation zone. You should have your cookware, utensils, spices, and condiments within easy reach. The oven is also part of this area, but it doesn’t have to be in this area, since it is not used that often.

86” 218cm

24” 61cm 24” 61cm

24” 61cm

SERVING If your kitchen design includes a seating area like a peninsula, this is the zone where you serve food, drinks, or place snacks for your family or guests. STORAGE

127” 323cm

15” 38cm



This is where you keep kitchenware, appliances, trays, and other utensils. Keep the things you use every day within easy reach like mugs, cereal bowls, dinner plates, etc., and store larger items like pots and pans in your base cabinets.

KITCHEN AREA RECOMMENDED COUNTERTOP LANDING AREAS

A kitchen landing area is countertop space that you need to place, or land, items from the sink, refrigerator, cooking surface, and oven areas. These landing areas have the recommended dimensions based on the tasks that you complete while cooking.

18” 46cm

36” 91cm

18” 46cm

24” 61cm

36” 91cm

24” 61cm

24” 61cm

24” 61cm

One important thing to keep in mind is to not get stuck in this recommended landing area dimensions. Always design your kitchen based on the available space that you have, specially when you have limited space; however, allways prioritize to have at least 24” (61cm) between range, sink and refrigerator.

15” 38cm

12” 30cm

15” 38cm

SINK LANDING AREA

12” 30cm

COOKING SURFACE LANDING AREA

15” 38cm

15” 38cm

MICROWAVE LANDING AREA

MICROWAVE LANDING AREA



KITCHEN AREA RECOMMENDED COUNTERTOP LANDING AREAS

24” 61cm

15” 38cm

24” 61cm

24” 61cm

24” 61cm

9” 23cm

15” 38cm

12” 30cm

15” 38cm

12” 30cm

15” 38cm

15” 38cm

15” 38cm

REFRIGERATOR LANDING AREA

COOKING SURFACE LANDING AREA ON ISLANDS

COMBINING LANDING AREAS

If two landing areas are adjacent to each other, a new minimum space should be provided based on the longer of the two areas and adding an extra 12” (30.5cm).

15” 38cm

ADD 12” 30cm

ADD 12” 30cm

36” 92cm

18” 46cm

COMBINING LANDING AREAS



KITCHEN AREA KITCHEN CABINETS

There are basically three types of kitchen cabinets that are related to the type of production method used to make them: custom, semi-custom, and in-stock. For the purposes of this book, I am going to focus on in-stock cabinets, which tend to be the most used across the kitchen design industry. In-stock cabinets are built based on industry standard styles and measurements. They are available in modular units, and no customization is available. The advantages are that they are affordable and ready to install.

BASE CABINETS

34 1/2 inches

Standard depth (front to wall no countertop)

24 inches

Standard widths

12, 15, 18, 24, 30, 36 inches

34.5” 88cm

Standard height (no countertop)

25”-2 64cm 6” -66cm 24” 61cm

36” 91cm

36” 91cm

As their name implies, they provide the base for countertops, sinks, and cooktops. They also provide storage space for large items like pots, pans, and small kitchen appliances.

Always check dimensions supplied by your kitchen cabinet manufacturer.

WALL CABINETS

30” 76cm

They are attached directly to the wall.

12” 30cm

Standard depths

12 or 24 inches

Standard widths

9 to 48 inches, in 3-inch increments

Always check dimensions supplied by your kitchen cabinet manufacturer.



36” 91cm

Standard heights 12, 15, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42 inches

KITCHEN AREA These are usually used as pantries or utility cabinets due to their height. Sometimes, they can extend from floor to ceiling. Standard heights

84 or 96 inches

Standard depths

12 or 24 inches

Standard widths

12, 18, 24 or 36 inches

24” 61cm

12” 30cm

84” 213cm

TALL CABINETS

Always check dimensions supplied by your kitchen cabinet manufacturer.

BLIND CORNER BASE CABINETS

A blind corner cabinet can encompass a surprising amount of space on the interior, but that space can be hard to reach. Accessories like pull-out shelves and Lazy Susans help to optimize every inch of that space.

HALF MOON LAZY SUSAN

CLOUD SHAPE PULL-OUT SHELVES

RECTANGULAR PULL-OUT SHELVES



KITCHEN AREA WALL CABINETS OR OPEN SHELVES?

42” 107cm 96” 15”-18” 244cm 38-46cm

24”-30” 61-91cm

36” 91cm

18” 46cm

36” 91cm

27” 69cm

30” 76cm

27” 69cm

30” 76cm

30” 76cm

KITCHEN WITH WALL CABINETS Standard kitchens with wall cabinets give you more storage space and help you keep all your kitchen items clean and away from dust. From a practical standpoint, cabinets are more suitable for houses.

12” 30cm 24”-30” 61-91cm

13.5” 34cm 36” 91cm

18” 46cm

36” 91cm

27” 69cm

30” 76cm

27” 69cm

30” 76cm

12” 30 cm

30” 76cm

KITCHEN WITH OPEN SHELVES Kitchen shelves look aesthetically pleasing, open the space, and you can also use them to showcase your beautiful dishware. On the downside, they are prone to accumulate dust, and the available storage space can be limited. From a practical standpoint, shelves are more suitable for small apartments.



96” 244cm

KITCHEN AREA KITCHEN SECTIONS COUNTERTOP HEIGHT The standard height for a countertop is 36” (91cm). This distance is measured from the floor to the countertop work surface, assuming a 34.5” (88cm) base cabinet height plus a 1.5” (3.8cm) thick countertop. However, counters with a height of 34” (86cm) will suit most wheelchairs, and if you are taller than average, 39” (99cm) will suit you better. TOE KICK A toe kick is the recessed area on a base cabinet that provides room for your feet, which allows you to stand closer to the countertop more comfortably. COUNTERTOP OVERHANG Countertop overhang is the distance from the leading edge of the countertop to the front of the base cabinets (not including cabinet doors). The standard overhang is 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5cm to 3.8cm).

STANDARD WALL CABINET HEIGHTS: 30”, 36”, 42” 76cm, 91cm, 107cm 15” TO 18” 38cm TO 46cm

34” TO 39” 86cm TO 99cm

1” to 1.5” 2.5cm to 3.8cm

3” 8cm

3.5” 9cm

COUNTERTOP OVERHANG

TOE KICK

IDEAL HEIGHT FOR A RANGE HOOD Hood ranges should be installed at the correct height, so that any unpleasant odors or smells are efficiently removed from the kitchen while you cook. If the wrong height for the hood is installed and it ends up being too close to the gas cook top, it could potentially catch fire. However, if you are using an electric cooktop, there are no flames involved; hence, the height and distance could be significantly less.

RANGE HOOD HEIGHT PER MANUFACTURER

20” TO 24” 51cm TO 61cm (FOR FOR ELECTRIC COOKTOP) 24” TO 30” 61cm TO 76cm (FOR GAS COOKTOP)

34” TO 39” 86cm TO 99cm



KITCHEN AREA KTCHEN ISLAND SEATING HEIGHTS 15” 38cm

COUNTERTOP HEIGHT Counter-height seating is provided by extending the kitchen island countertop to create a 15” (38cm) overhang to keep the same standard counter height of 36” (91cm). A counter-height kitchen island provides a clear view of the entire kitchen and gives the impression of a larger kitchen space.

36” 91cm

23” 58cm

COUNTERTOP HEIGHT

18” 46cm

TABLE HEIGHT A portion of the kitchen island counter gets lowered to provide the same height as a dining table, offering the ideal height to comfortably sit on a standard chair and have a meal.

36” 91cm

30” 76cm

17” 43cm

TABLE HEIGHT

12” 30cm

BAR HEIGHT Bar-height kitchen islands are usually 42" (107cm) off the floor to the countertop and stand 6" (15cm) higher than the standard kitchen island, which works well with bar stools. The raised area also helps to conceal dirty dishes or clutter near the sink. Children and the elderly may find it hard to use the raised seating.

42” 107cm

36” 91cm

BAR HEIGHT



30” 76cm

KITCHEN AREA RECOMMENDED KITCHEN AISLE WIDTHS

40” 102cm

42” 107cm 1 COOK AISLE WIDTH

32” 81cm

KITCHEN COUNTER OPPOSITE A TABLE

40” 102cm

48” 122cm

KITCHEN COUNTER OPPOSITE A WALL

2 COOK AISLE WIDTH



KITCHEN AREA TYPE OF RANGE HOODS

SUB-FLOOR

SUB-FLOOR

WALL MOUNT THROUGH ROOF The most common type of hood. They are mounted against a wall in the kitchen and vented directly out the roof.

RETRACTABLE DOWNDRAFT This system is a great solution for kitchen island cooktops and for creating a modern and minimal look, but they have a lower efficiency of drawing steam from taller pots and pans.

SUB-FLOOR

SUB-FLOOR

WALL MOUNT THROUGH WALL If your kitchen is located on the first level and you have a second floor above, running ducts through your roof may not be possible, and you will need to vent through an exterior wall.

CEILING FLUSH MOUNT THROUGH ROOF This is also a great solution for kitchen island cooktops but not the most functional. For maximum efficiency, they require a higher flow rate, and the hood needs to be larger than the cooktop because they are installed far from the cooking surface.



KITCHEN AREA CABINET STYLES HOOD VENT COVER

WOOD SHELVES

POT FILLER

GAS RANGE

RAISED PANEL The most traditional of all styles. The center panel of the cabinet door is raised above the rest of the door, and there is usually a recessed border around it. This is a great option if you are looking for a rustic or traditional look.

HOOD

NICHE

ELECTRIC COOKTOP

INSET When closed, the door sets inside and flush with the cabinet frame instead of outside, leaving a tiny gap around the door. This type of cabinet also fits into almost any design style, from traditional to modern.



KITCHEN AREA CABINET STYLES HOOD

WOOD SHELVES

NICHE

GAS RANGE

SHAKER OR RECESSED PANEL The most popular style in North America, consisting of four flat pieces creating a rectangular frame with a flat panel in the center. This type of cabinet blends well into many kitchen designs whether you are looking for a traditional, modern, or contemporary look.

HOOD VENT COVER

POT FILLER

GAS COOKTOP

FLAT PANEL OR SLAB The simplest of all styles. Cabinet doors are made of a flat panel, offering clean lines and a minimalist form. This is a great fit if you are looking for a contemporary or modern look.



KITCHEN AREA KITCHEN LAYOUTS WITH DIMENSIONS

In-stock cabinets are built based on industry standard styles and measurements and are available in modular units. These are two examples of modular kitchens with dimensions. 30” 27” 24” 76cm 69cm 61cm

15” 38cm

36” 91cm

24” 61cm

36” 91cm

36” 91cm

24” 27” 61cm 69cm

“L” SHAPED KITCHEN WITH PENINSULA

MICROWAVE

INSET CABINETS

FARMHOUSE SINK WATERFALL COUNTERTOP



KITCHEN AREA KITCHEN LAYOUTS WITH DIMENSIONS 36” 91cm

24” 61cm

36” 91cm

24” 21” 24” 61cm 53cm 61cm

36” 91cm

24” 61cm

36” 91cm

3” 8cm

24” 61cm

24” 61cm

24” 24” 61cm 61cm

18” 46cm “L” SHAPED KITCHEN WITH ISLAND

SLAB CABINETS

WINE COOLER



KITCHEN AREA COMMON KITCHEN DESIGN MISTAKES TO AVOID BASE CABINET FILLER Don’t place drawers in corners or next to a wall. Always use a 3” or 6” base cabinet filler, which is a piece of finished wood used to “fill” gaps between cabinets and walls.

DRAWERS IN CORNERS Drawers should not be placed right in the corner of base cabinets. It is always recommended to place doors instead.

APPLIANCES IN CORNERS The sink, oven, and dishwasher should never be placed against a wall or in a corner, as it makes accessibility difficult.

AND ADDITIONAL * RANGE COUNTER SPACE IS NOT SHOWN FOR CLARITY

REFRIGERATOR DOOR When deciding where to place your refrigerator, always check how the door is going to open and how this is going to affect the circulation and working flow in your kitchen.



UTILITY AREAS

Chapter 6

UTILITY AREAS



UTILITY AREAS

LAUNDRY ROOM DESIGN

36”-40” 91cm-102cm

STANDARD DIMENSIONS AND CLEARANCES

When designing a house, laundry rooms seem to have the least importance of all rooms. In some cases, washers and dryers are located in an empty basement or a garage, and these spaces end up being neglected and not maximized. A dedicated laundry room can bring many benefits; you can have cabinets to organize linens, laundry products, and other cleaning products. Doing laundry becomes more organized when everything is in one place.

EXTERIOR WALL VENT HOOD 24” (61cm) IDEAL DISTANCE 6” (15cm) 15cm) MIN. 7”-15” CLEARANCE 18cm-38cm BEHIND MACHINES PEDESTAL HEIGHT STANDARD WASHER AND DRYER CLEARANCES (SIDE VIEW)

70”-75” 178cm-191cm

35”-43” 89cm-109cm 34” 86cm

7”-15” 18cm-38cm 28”-34” 71cm-86cm

” 27 m c 69 PEDESTAL

STANDARD WASHER AND DRYER DIMENSIONS

24”-27” 61cm-69cm

23” 58cm

COMPACT WASHER AND DRYER DIMENSIONS

24”-27” 61cm-69cm

27” 69cm

STACKABLE WASHER AND DRYER DIMENSIONS

EXTERIOR WALL

60” 152cm

W

58” 147cm

D

48” 122cm

34” 86cm

12” 30cm

82” 208cm

6”(15cm) CLEARANCE 6”(15cm) BEHIND WASHER AND DRYER TO ALLOW FOR HOOKUPS AND VENTING

WASHER AND DRYER CLEARANCES (ISOMETRIC VIEW)

130” 330cm

1” (2.5cm) (2.5cm) SPACE BETWEEN MACHINES

WASHER AND DRYER CLEARANCES (PLAN VIEW)



UTILITY AREAS COMPACT SIZE LAUNDRY ROOM DESIGN 22” 56cm 22” 56cm

36” 91cm

48” 122cm

40” 102cm

48” 122cm

40” 102cm

60” 152cm

W

W/D

D

A

B

A

B 110” 279cm

110” 279cm STACKABLE WASHER AND DRYER LAUNDRY ROOM

70”-75” 178cm-191cm

43” 109cm

SIDE BY SIDE WASHER AND DRYER LAUNDRY ROOM

17” 43cm 36” 91cm

43” 109cm

43” 109cm

17” 43cm

14” 36cm

36” 91cm

39” 99cm

SECTION A-A

SECTION B-B

STANDARD SIZE LAUNDRY ROOM DESIGN

34” 87cm

60” 152cm

W

23” 58cm

D

50” 127cm

48” 122cm

W/D

24” 23” 61cm 58cm

12” 30cm

84” 213cm

30” 76cm

30” 76cm

48” 122cm

92” 234cm

24” 61cm

130” 330cm

102” 260cm STACKABLE WASHER AND DRYER LAUNDRY ROOM

SIDE BY SIDE WASHER AND DRYER LAUNDRY ROOM



UTILITY AREAS LAUNDRY ROOMS WITH PET STATION

24” 61cm

106” 269cm

54” 137cm

28” 71cm

120” 305cm

60” 152cm

60” 152cm

SIDE BY SIDE WASHER AND DRYER LAUNDRY ROOM

27” 69cm

48” 122cm

24” 61cm

46” 117cm

106” 269cm

36” 91cm

12” 27” 30cm 69cm

PERSPECTIVE PROJECTION

120” 305cm STACKABLE WASHER AND DRYER LAUNDRY ROOM

PERSPECTIVE PROJECTION



UTILITY AREAS

GARAGE DESIGN

Designing a garage may sound like a simple task: you just apply the minimum dimensions and that is all. As simple as it seems, this area can have more design potential than you think. You can add a workshop area, a storage room or a home gym. When not occupied by a car, garages can become a place where you can benefit from the large amount of space. 10’-0” 3.05m

20’-0” 6.10m

20’-0” 6.10m

20’-0” 6.10m

9’-0” 2.74m

16’-0” 4.88m

SINGLE CAR GARAGE

2-CAR GARAGE

20’-0” 6.10m

28’-0” 8.53m

9’-0” 2.74m

16’-0” 4.88m 3-CAR GARAGE



UTILITY AREAS GARAGE DESIGN

20’-0” 6.10m

36’-0” 10.97m

4-CAR GARAGE 4’-11” 1.50m

STORAGE

7’-8” 2.34m

W

D

20’-0” 6.10m

24’-6” 7.47m

WORKSHOP

3’-8” 1.12m

6’-8” 2.03m 3’-8” 1.12m

16’-0” 4.88m

4’-2” 1.27m

16’-0” 4.88m

16’-0” 4.88m 20’-0” 6.10m 2-CAR GARAGE WITH WORKSHOP AREA



UTILITY AREAS

96” 244cm

84” 213cm

TYPES OF GARAGE DOORS

96” 244cm

84” 213cm

SECTIONAL DOOR

TILT-UP DOOR



96” 244cm

84” 213cm

ROLL-UP DOOR

STAIRCASES

Chapter 7

STAIRCASES



STAIRCASES

TYPES OF STAIRCASES

Obviously serving an important functional purpose, which is going from point “A” to “B”, staircases have different sizes and shapes, and they require a lot of thought when deciding which one is the most suitable for your design project. Below are the most common types of staircases used in residential projects, and like any other design decision, all of them have their pros and cons.

STRAIGHT CANTILEVERED STAIRS

“L” SHAPED WINDER STAIRS

SPIRAL STAIRS

“U” SHAPED STAIRS



STRAIGHT STAIRS WITH NO LANDING

“L” SHAPED STAIRS

STAIRCASES

DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES

One of the challenges that we encounter while designing a two-story house is where to locate the stairs. They take up a lot of space, and their location affects the final design of both floors. Here are four examples showing which type of staircase to use based on the amount of space available.

UP

SPIRAL STAIRCASES Spiral staircases are the most practical when it comes to saving space. They can fit in tight spaces, and their access point can be faced in any direction according to your needs. They also have a few disadvantages. Because of their compact size and circular shape, they are a lot steeper and narrower than a normal staircase. They can be difficult to use for kids, seniors, and people with mobility problems.

FLOOR

FLOOR

BATH.

KITCHEN

LOFT CL. DN OPEN TO BELOW

LIVING

1ST FLOOR

2ND FLOOR ENTRY



STAIRCASES DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES

“L” SHAPED STAIRCASES “L” shaped staircases are basically two flights of stairs that change direction by 90 degrees after a landing.

UP

Because of their shape, they are probably one of the most flexible staircase types to accommodate in any kind of floor plan design. They can be placed in any corner, and the void squared space between flights could be used as a closet or storage space, or you could simply add a piece of furniture.

FLOOR

FLOOR

BEDROOM

BEDROOM

CL.

CL.

DN CL.

BATH.

CLOSET

BEDROOM

CLOSET

CL.

KITCHEN

BATH. BATH.

LIVING

DINING

1ST FLOOR

2ND FLOOR ENTRY



STAIRCASES DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES

STRAIGHT STAIRCASES A straight staircase consists of a single flight of steps without any changes in direction.

UP

Like any other stairs, they need a landing when the distance between floor levels is greater than 12 feet (3.7m). You can generate endless design options when finding a location for them in your project. They can be embedded in a wall to create a focal point in any room in your house.

FLOOR

Because of their straight shape, they can also be used for narrow floor plans and designs.

FLOOR

BATH.

DINING

BEDROOM CL.

KITCHEN

DN OPEN TO BELOW

LIVING

FOYER CL. BEDROOM

BATH. 1ST FLOOR

2ND FLOOR ENTRY



BATH.

STAIRCASES DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES

“U” SHAPED STAIRCASES This is another type of staircase that can be easily accommodated in your design. Because of their squared shape, they can be tucked into an alcove in between two walls without wasting any space.

UP

The one or two landings that they provide make them safer and easier to use for kids and people with mobility problems. FLOOR

LANDING

FLOOR

BEDROOM

BATH.

BEDROOM

CL.

BEDROOM

CL.

CL. DN BEDROOM BATH.

BATH.

CL.

BATH.

KITCHEN LIVING DINING 1ST FLOOR

2ND FLOOR ENTRY



CLOSET

STAIRCASES DESIGN AND LOCATION OF STAIRCASES

WINDER STAIRCASES This consists of any type of staircase that replaces the use of squared landings by using triangular shaped steps to turn 90 degree corners.

UP

These stairs require less space compared to the other types, but the triangular shape of the steps in the corners make them a little more difficult to navigate for kids, seniors, and people with mobility problems. These stairs need to be carefully designed to follow building code requirements.

FLOOR

FLOOR

BATH.

BATH.

BEDROOM CL. CL.

CL. BEDROOM LAUND.

BATH.

CL.

TV ROOM

BATH.

DN

BEDROOM

BEDROOM CL.

KITCHEN LIVING DINING 2ND FLOOR

1ST FLOOR ENTRY



STAIRCASES STAIRCASES AS FOCAL POINTS

We often see a staircase as a functional element for the sole purpose of connecting the different levels of a house. Stairs have the potential to become a design element capable of emphasizing the beauty of a space.

CANTILEVERED WITH GLASS RAILING If you are looking for a sleek and clean design option, cantilevered stairs combined with a glass railing create that sense of transparency that immediately draws your attention.

STORAGE CABINETS Even cabinets under your staircase can draw your eye to that area. You can have fun playing with different design options and geometric patterns.

CANTILEVERED WITH SHELVES Adding horizontal shelves as a continuation of the stair steps can create an interesting texture underneath them. Make sure that shelves and steps are separate pieces to avoid vibration.

CANTILEVERED WITH CABLE RAILING Adding a cable railing to a cantilevered stair can bring that industrial vibe to any room and become focal point of the room.



STAIRCASES MAXIMIZING UNDERSTAIRS SPACE

The space underneath your staircase has more potential than you think, especially if it is a straight staircase. You can turn it into something practical like a space to put a desk or a laundry closet, and if you have enough headroom space, you can fit a full bathroom in there.

36” 91cm

98” 249cm

36” 91cm

98” 249cm

DESK - OFFICE SPACE

43” 109cm

43” 109cm

60” 152cm

36” 91cm

43” 109cm

LAUNDRY CLOSET

STORAGE SPACE

GUEST BATHROOM



18” 46cm