Froggy - Kru Toys - en PDF [PDF]

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This pattern doesn’t include any crochet lessons. Difficulty: intermediate..

FROGGY

crochet pattern

Author: Kseniya Krupskaya

Copyright: C o p yr i g h t i s a typ e o f i n te l l e ctu a l p r o p e r ty th a t g i ve s me , th e o w n e r , th e e xcl u si ve r i g h t to co n tr o l a n d ma n i p u l a te a n y a cti on s a b o u t my i n te l l e ctu a l w o rk l i ke th i s p a tte r n , i n str u cti o n s o r p i ctu r e s i n i t. Th i s ri g h t i s p r o te cte d b y th e L a w .

D ea r cr af ter s, I d id my bes t to make th is pa tter n sim ple an d cle ar , eas y t o u n d er sta n d an d to f o llo w , an d I s pen t a lo t o f time mak in g it. I r ea lly h o pe t ha t yo u r es p ect m y w o r k a n d give m e a cr ed it a s t he des ign er o f th is p a tter n in yo u r s o cia l med ia. Bu t yo u d o n 't h av e to . T h is pa tter n is my in telle ctu al p r o per ty , a nd it is f o r yo u r p er so n a l us e o nly. F ul l o r pa r tial co p yin g, sh ar in g (p o s tin g, s end in g, p u r ch as in g it w ith o ther p eo p le, cr o c het ing alo n g wi th so meo n e e lse a n d so o n ) , tr an sla tin g in to o t her la ng ua ges o r r esel ing a r e the in fr in ge men t o f m y co p yr igh t. B u yin g th is pa tter n y o u get th e r igh t to cr ea te to y s ac co r d in g to it a nd sell t hem b u t n o t the r igh t to d isp o s e o f th e pa tter n o n y o ur o w n. P lea se r esp ect t he d esi gn er’ s r ig ht s! Th an k y ou v e ry mu ch!

Ple a se c o nta ct me in a ny c on ve nie nt w a y if y o u ha v e any que sti ons , s ug g es tio ns a b ou t the p a ttern , o r if y ou hav e fo und a n erro r in t he instru ct ion . Al so p lea se reme mbe r to ta g me o n y ou r f inis hed w o r k whe n y o u use an y o f m y p at terns . Ple a se use #kru_ pa tte rn. * kru.toys https://vk.com/little_kru_club https://boosty.to/kru.toys e-mail: [email protected]

I wil l b e g la d t o g et a ny f e ed ba ck f ro m Y ou !

* - t h e pr o duc t o f Met a C o r p, was dec l ar ed a s an ext r emi s t gr o up on t h e R us s i an F eder at i o n te r ri t o r y 2 1. 0 3 .2 0 2 2

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Dear friends, let me introduce myself My name is Kseniya, and for the past four years crocheting has been my hobby. I'm absolutely obsessed with crocheting Amigurumi toys and photographing my toys in the best way to present my creations. Perhaps, the idea to combine these two kinds of expressing myself is the true reason why I'm so obsessed with amigurumi and that is why we are both here to crochet the cutest travel and chill lover - my Froggy. This project became a real challenge for me.I guess this is the main reason why it is so loved not only by me, but by many of you. Never before I didn't remake the parts of the project so many times over and over again to get the right shape. There is not such part that I have crocheted

from the first time and got it right. For example, to get the right shape of the eyes I needed about 10 tries, and for the final head shape I needed 3 tries. The project became a hard but truely a gift of fate. It helps me to be more patient and selfsure in what I do. Now I would like you to share with me the experience in creating the cutest flower guy - the most charismatic froggy. He will bring only good vibes and memories to you.

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materials and tools yarn for the body in lime color Alize Cotton Gold #193/YarnArt Jeans #29, yarn for the eyes in white color Alize Cotton Gold #62/YarnArt Jeans #03, yarn for the cheeks in pink color YarnArt Jeans #36/Alize Cotton Gold #33, yarn for the head in light-yellow color Alize Cotton Gold #187/YarnArt Jeans #88, yarn for the spots in khaki color Alize Cotton Gold #29/YarnArt Jeans #82, Gazzal Jeans #1129, yarn for the hat in straw color Alize Cotton Gold #262/YarnArt Jeans #07, yarn for the hat's stripe in graphite color YarnArt Jeans #28/Alize Cotton Gold #182, yarn for the rubber ring in yellow color Alize Cotton Gold #216/YarnArt Jeans #35, yarn for the duck's beack in orange color YarnArt Jeans #31, yarn for the swimwear in violet color Alize Cotton Gold #44/YarnArt Jeans #72, yarn for the lemonade in 3 colors you like, I've used pink color YarnArt Jeans #59, beige color YarnArt Jeans #05/Alize Cotton Gold #67 and azure color YarnArt Jeans #55, yarn for the lemon in 3 colors you like, I've used white color Alize Cotton Gold #62, light-yellow color YarnArt Jeans #88 and yellow color Alize Cotton Gold #216, crochet hooks: 2 mm Clover OR 1.75 mm any other type you prefer (US 4), a thick cardboard (I have used piece of cardboard of 20*20 cm, 1250 gr/m2) or any polymer material which fits, 8 pieces of wire 0.4 mm dia with the length of about 23 cm, 2 pieces of wire 0.8 mm dia with the length of about 30 cm, adhesive woven tape bandage, 8 mm safety eyes - 2 pcs, 4 mm safety eyes - 2 pcs, a tapestry needle for attaching the pieces, some pins, scissors, markers, thread thickness: fiberfill, YarnArt Jeans - 160m/50gr happy vibes. Cotton Gold - 330m/100gr For body you will need about 50 gr, therefore it's better to prepare 2 skeins if you use YartArt Jeans.

Th e s e ma te r i a l s a re o n l y a l i st o f my r e co mme n d a ti o n s to h e l p y o u c re a te th e to y l i ke mi n e . Yo u ca n u se a n y ty p e /si z e o f th e y a rn a n d th e h o o k, b u t yo u mu st u n d e r sta n d i t w i l l a ffe ct th e to y' s fi n a l l o o k.

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Color palette Alize Cotton Gold #193

Alize Cotton Gold #216

YarnArt Jeans #36

Alize Cotton Gold #262

YarnArt

Alize Cotton

Jeans #55

Gold #44

YarnArt Jeans #88

Alize Cotton Gold #62

YarnArt

YarnArt

Jeans #05

Jeans #59

YarnArt Jeans #82

YarnArt Jeans #31

5 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

about glue and wire In t his pr o jec t I us ed t wo kin d s o f w ir e: 1. C o p pe r w ir e wh ic h is thi n en o u gh - fo r th e f in ger s 0. 4 mm d ia. 2. C o pp er w ir e 0 .8 mm d ia f o r d o ll' s fr a me. If yo u d eci de n o t to us e a w ir e at all o r in to the fin ge rs , yo u can cr o ch et wit ho u t th e f r ame . Bu t i f yo u d ecid e no t to us e the w ir e fo r f in ger s y o u wil l n eed th e w ir e 8 mm dia o nly . Y o u r d o ll c an be ma de w ith o ut a w ir e. B ut p leas e p a y a tten tio n , th at if y o u do n ' t us e it - y o ur d o ll w ill n o t b e a ble to be nd its ar ms , legs an d n ec k. A ls o it w ill p r o ba b ly no t b e ab le to h o ld its h ead str a igh t.

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factors to define how much yarn you need 1. T he fir s t an d the mo st o bv io us f ac to r is a  c ro ch et ho o k si ze . If yo u u se th e yar n men tio ne d in th e m ater ia ls lis t a nd a cr o ch et ho o k s iz e o th er th a n r eco mmen d ed o n e, it wil l a ff ect th e amo u n t o f yar n n ec ess ar y fo r y o ur pr o jec t. If yo u ch o o se a lar ge r cr o c het h o o k, th en y o u w ill n eed m o re ya r n an d if y o u go fo r a s malle r cr o ch et ho o k - th en yo u w ill n eed les s ya r n th an it is sp eci fied in th e m ater ia ls lis t. 2. T he sec on d fa cto r – y ou r ty pic a l te ns io n w h en cr o ch etin g. T h e gau ge a n d ten sio n i s go in g t o ma ke a dif fer en ce w ith th e amo u n t o f u s ed ya r n be cau s e y o u get m o r e o r les s sp ac e b etw een s titch es . T he tigh te r yo ur sti tch es ar e, th e l ess yar n yo u need . 3. T h e th ir d an d ver y im po r ta nt co n d itio n – y o ur stitc he s sha pe: V -s h ap e, Xsh ap e/s emi- X . T h e s titch s ha pe d ep en ds o n wh a t cr o c h et tec hn iq u e yo u us e – yar n o ver o r ya r n u n d er th e h o o k. If yo u w r a p th e th re a d , p l a ci n g th e h o o k u n d e rn e a th th e ya r n stra n d (Y a rn U n d e r - ci rcu l a r m o ve m e n t o f th e h o o k fro m th e ri g h t to th e l e ft) – th i s m a ke s V-s ha pe d s titc h, i f y o u p u t th e h o o k o v e r th e y a rn stra n d (Y a rn Ov e r - ci rcu l a r mo v e me n t fro m th e ri g h t to th e l e ft) – th i s m a ke s X-s ha pe d s tit c he s , a n d i f yo u ma k e y a rn u n d e r th e n y a rn o v e r, th i s te c h n i q u e g i ve s u s s e m i-X s titc he s. Y o u w i l l n e e d m u ch mo r e ya r n fo r th e fa b ri c ma d e i n Y a r n Ove r te ch n i q u e co m p a re d w i th th e a m o u n t n e e d e d fo r Ya rn U n d e r te ch n i q u e . Wh y d id I s pec ify th e yar n d en sit y in th e ma ter ial s lis t? If yo u d on ’ t h av e th e sa me b r an d tha t I r ec o mmen d , y o u s h o ul d u s e the ya r n w eigh t a s s ub s titu tio n w ith a ny r is k o f mis ca lcu la tio n f o r th e to y an d c lo th es s izes .

Vi deo how to make semi -X s titches

Yo u ca n s ca n or tap o n th i s QR -c od e an d othe r on es to w a tch v i d eo s.

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instructionS s t = stitc h M R  = mag ic r in g c h/ tch = c h ain /tu r n ing c h ain s l s t = s lip stitc h s c = si ng le c r o ch et h dc = h alf d o u bl e c r o ch et d c = d o u bl e c r o ch et t r = tr eb le cr o ch et d ec = dec r eas e (w ith th e s am e typ e o f stitc h es w h ich w e u se in r nd )

inc = i nc r eas e ( w ith th e s ame typ e o f st itch es w h ich w e us e in r n d ) B L O  = cr o ch et in to b ac k lo o p s o n ly F L O  = c ro c h et in to fr o n t lo o p s o n ly CL = cl us ter stitc h ( 4 d c jo in ed a t th e to p ) shi ft stitc h - ex tr a r egu la r s titch

T h e numb er in bra ck ets a t the e nd of ev e ry ro und me a ns a to ta l numbe r of s titc hes in the ro un d, ( … ) * n – m ea ns tha t y ou sho ul d r epe a t the c omb ina t io n o f s titc hes n time s. I n this pa tt ern w e use U S te rmino lo g y . C h o o se th e c o rre ct h o o k si ze w h i ch i s a p p ro p ri a te f o r th e ya r n yo u a re g o i n g to u s e . Yo u r ch o i ce ca n b e d i ffe re n t fro m m i n e , b u t p l e a s e p a y a tte n ti o n to th e fa ct, th a t th e si ze o f th e to y a n d th e c l o th e s w i l l b e d i ffe re n t w h e n y o u u se o th e r y a rn a n d a n o th e r h o o k si ze . U se a s titc h ma r ker fo r yo u r c o nv enie nc e f o r r o u n d s co u n tin g. T h e to y is cr o c het ed in s emi- X stitc he s. S hif t s titc hes a r e ca lcu la ted p r ecis ely f o r th is tec hn iq u e. If yo u cr o ch et the s titch es w it h Y ar n O ver s , th en Y o u w ill n eed to d eter min e the s ymmetr y o f th e pie ces a nd t h e nu mb er o f s hi ft s titc he s a n d th eir lo ca tio n b y yo u r sel f. S tu ff a ll th e pi eces a s yo u go , ti gh t ( un les s o th er wi se sta ted ), gr a d ua lly ad d ing s ma ll po r tio n s o f s tu ff in g a n d f or m ing n ec ess ar y s ha p es o f p ieces . A b ou t c ol or cha ng in g. I re co mmen d to c h an ge co lo r in th e las t stitc h o f a r o u n d , b efo r e yo u sta r t th e ro u n d with a n ew co lo r . Wo r k t his las t st itch w ith t hr ea d o f a n ew c o lo r in th e f o llo w in g w ay : pu ll u p a lo o p w ith the ya rn yo u 'r e w o r ki ng w ith an d th en fin is h w ith the ya r n o f n ew c o lo r . A b ou t de c rea se s. I ma ke in vis ibl e d ec r eas es - w o r k in F L O, b u t it's eas ier to m ake c las sic d ec r eas es in to so me s titch es - in b o th lo o ps . T h e f r o ggy is 25 c m/9. 84 in ch es tall in ca se of u s i ng th e ma ter ial s li sted a n d c r o ch etin g in semi -X s titc h. 8 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

how to make an invisible edge Her e I w an n a s ho w yo u h o w I en d th e cr o ch etin g in t he r o u n ds by ma kin g in vis ib le e dge .

1. In se rt th e n eedl e in th e stitc h c o un tin g 2 st itch es b efo r e yo u r las t on e. Pu ll it o ut . 2. I n ser t th e need le b etw een f r on t a nd ba ck lo o p s o f th e st itch bef o r e y o ur las t o ne. Pu ll it o u t. 3. Ma ke s ur e th e thr ea d is tigh t eno u gh . Th a t is all .

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Part 1. Froggy

arms Wit h the yarn of l ime col or #193. Make two.

1

Start crocheting from the fi ngers. There are 8 fi ngers: 6 pcs 1 rnd longer and 2 thumbs which are 1 rnd shorter. The thumbs are 1 rnd shorter (7 rnds in the thumb). Start crocheting from the thumb (1st finger), next crochet 3 more fingers with the regular length.

1. 6 sc i n MR (6) 2. (sc, i nc)*3 (9) 3. 9 sc (9) 4. (sc, dec)*3 (6) 5 -8. 6 sc (6) 4 rn ds, fasten o f two re gu l ar fi n ge rs ( 2n d и 3 rd ), d on 't stu ff.

2

Starti ng from t he 4th finger we crochet the the hand: 1. 3 sc along the 4th finger on the hook, 3 sc along t he 3rd finger, 6 sc along the 2nd finger, 3 sc al ong the 3rd fi nger, 3 sc al ong the 4th finger (рi с. 2), put the marker (18) 2. 18 sc (18) 3. (4 sc, dec)*3 (15) 1-st hand:

4. 3 sc through the 1st (t humb) finger and the hand, 12 sc al ond the hand (15) 5. 3 sc through the 1st (thumb) finger, 12 sc al ong the hand (15)

3

2- nd hand:

4. 5 sc along the hand, 3 sc through the 1st (thumb) finger and the hand, 7 sc along the hand (15) 5. 5 sc along the hand, 3 sc through the 1st (thumb) finger, 7 sc along the hand (15)

11 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

Pr ep a r e th e w ir e fo r the fin ger s : tak e th e p iece o f w ir e ab o u t 23 c m lo n g f o r eac h fi ng er a nd b end th e l oo p o n its end ( рiс . 4) .

4

N ext we need to wr a p the wir e wit h t he a dh es ive wo v en ta pe b an d age s tar tin g fr o m th e l o op o n th e l eng th little b it mo r e th at th e len gth o f t he f ing er ( рiс . 5) If the layers of the tape bandage are thick, you wouldn't be able insert the wire into the fingers.

In s er t t he w ir e i nto ea ch f in ger a n d tw is t its fr ee en d s a r o un d eac h o th er , w r a p th e tw is ted en d s w ith th e th in la yer o f th e a dh es ive wo v en ta pe b an d ag e ( рi с. 6 ). 6. ( 3 sc , d ec) *3 (1 2) 7. 12 sc ( 12) , s tu ff th e h an d a l ittle bit 8. ( 2 sc , d ec) *3 (9 ) 9 -3 4 . 9 sc (9 ), 2 6 rn d s, fa s te n o ff.

5

D on ' t cu t the w ir e. If y o u 'r e u si n g th e fr a me d o n o t stu ff th e a r ms, stu ff o n l y th e h a n d a re a a l i ttl e b i t.

Rep eat w ith th e 2nd ar m, s tar ti ng fr o m th e fi ng er s.

66

7

12 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

body and legs

8

Wi th t he yarn of li me col or # 193. Start crocheting from the bottom of the body, next going to the legs and after that we will go back to the body. 1. 2. 3. 4.

8 sc i n MR (8) 8 i nc (1 6) (sc, inc)*8 (24) (2 sc, i nc)*8 (32), f asten of f ( рi с. 8).

Going to the toes. As we did it in hands we start from the toes (3 pcs for each leg), next we join them to the foot. Make 2 toes for the 1st leg and fasten them off, don't cut the thread on the 3rd toe and continue to crochet the foot: 1. 6 sc i n MR (6) 2. (sc, i nc)*3 (9) 3. 9 sc (9) 4. (sc, de c)*3 (6) 5. 6 sc (6) 6. 3 sc along the 3rd toe, 3 sc along the 2nd toe, 6 sc along the 1st toe, 3 sc along the 2nd toe, 3 sc along the 3rd toe (18) (рiс. 9), put the marker. 7-10. 18 sc (18), 4 rnds, stuff the toes 11. (4 sc, dec)*3 (15) 1 2 - 1 5 . 1 5 sc ( 1 5 ), 4 rn d s 16. (3 sc, dec)*3 (12) 17. 12 sc (12), make 1 shi f t st, the end of the rnd must be placed on t he si de edge of the foot , stuff the f oot ( рiс. 10).

6

9

10

Maki ng the he el of the fo ot: 18. 6 sc, ch, turn the work, 3 dec, ch, turn the work, triple dec (crochet 3 sc together), put the marker (рiс. 11,12). Prepare the piece of the wire about 30 cm long, wrap the loop on the end of it with the thin layers of the adhesive woven tape bandage (рiс. 13). 19. 2 sc along the side of the heel of the foot, 6 sc along the foot, 2 sc along the side of the heel

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of the foot, 1 sc along the foot (the poi nt where we worked 3 sc t oget her) (11), insert the wire int o the foot (рiс. 14). 20. 9 sc, dec (10), stuff the heel of the foot

11

Next stuff the leg as you crochet. 2 1-5 0. 10 sc ( 10 ), 3 0 rn ds 51. (4 sc, i nc)*2 (12) 52. 12 sc (12), make some shi ft sti tches. You need to make it according to your thread tention. Tne number of shift stitches can be different.

The marker on the 2nd leg must be pl aced i n the middl e of t he back side (рi с. 20), for the 1st one t he place is not so i mportant. 1st leg: 8 sc, fasten off. 2nd leg: 19 sc, don't cut the thread, conti nue to crochet the body and go back to the bott om of the body, whi ch we had crochet before the toes.

12

Now we need to mark the stitches on the bottom of the body symmetrical ly: 6 st for ech leg, 6 st on t he back of the body and 14 st on the bell y (рiс. 20). In the beginning of the 5t h r nd of the body we will cr oc het in the opposit e dir ect ion along the 2nd leg, but clockwise (a s usual) f or the body (рiс. 2 1).

136

14

14 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

15

16

17

18

196

20 ba c k

leg

2nd leg

1st le g

be lly

15 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

21

5. 6 sc through the 2nd leg and the body, 14 sc along the belly, 6 sc through the 1st leg and the body, 6 sc alond the back (32) 6. 6 sc along the 2nd leg, 14 sc along the belly, 6 sc along the 1 st leg, 6 sc along the back (32), put the marker (рiс. 23). Now the start of the rnd will be placed here.

22

23

Stu ff th e b o d y a s yo u c ro c h e t, o th e rw i se i t w i l l b e p ro b l e ma ti c to ma ke i t n e a t a n d ti g h t e n o u g h .

7. (3 sc , i nc )*8 (40) 8. (4 sc, inc)* 8 ( 48) 9. (5 sc, inc)* 8 ( 56) 10. (6 sc, inc)*8 (64), stuff the leg, bend and twist the wire (рiс. 24-26). 1 1 -1 6. 6 4 s c (6 4 ), 6 rn d s, stu ff 17. (6 sc , d ec)* 8 ( 56) 1 8 -2 3. 5 6 sc (5 6 ), 6 rn d s

24

25

16 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

Next for forming the shape of the belly we need to mark 19 st in the middle of the back (рiс. 27).

26

Depending on where your marker is placed, make some shift stitches till the left pin. I made 7 shift sts and put the marker. Now the rnd starts here. 24. (dec, 3 sc)*8, 16 sc (48) 25-30. 48 sc (48), 6 rnds Mark 18 stitches in the middle of the back again (рiс. 29). Crochet shift stitches if it is needed till the left pin or maybe unravel some already crocheted stitches. I have unraveled 2 stitches.

27

31. (dec, 2 sc)*8, 16 sc (40) 32-34. 40 sc (40), 3 rnds Next we need to mark the stitches on the body symmetrically: 4 stitches for each arm, 14 stitches on the back and 18 stitches on the belly. The marker must be placed at the last of 14 stitches of the back (рiс. 30-31).

28

29

17 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

30

31 ba ck

a rm

be lly

35. 4 sc through the 1st arm and the body (рiс. 32), 18 sc along the belly, 4 sc through the 2nd arm and the body, 14 sc along the back (40)

32

36. 5 sc along the 1st arm (рiс. 33), 18 sc al ong the bel ly, 5 sc al ong the 2nd arm, 14 sc along the back (42) Twi st the wire ends around each other (pay att ention to the neck area - it must be t hin enough), wrap it and continue to crochet (рiс. 34). 37. 38. 39. 40.

(5 sc, 36 sc (4 sc, (3 sc,

dec)*6 (36) (36) dec)*6 (30) dec)*6 (24)

33

34

18 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

41. (sc, dec)*8 (16) 42. (2 sc, dec)*4 (12)

35

Now it's time to make a deal with the end of the wire which is left. Bend it and twist free ends so that about 5-6 cm of the wire were out of the body (рiс. 35). It's necessary for holding the head and for the neck to be able to bend in any direction. At the same time the wrapped part of the neck must be not thick and you wouldn't have to stuff the neck, but only crochet around the wire. I have wrapped the wire with a thin layer of adhesive woven tape bandage after twisting again. 43-49. 12 sc (12), 7 rnds, leave a long tail for sewing and cut the thread.

36

37

19 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

head

38

With the yarn of lime color #193. Make ch5, from the 2nd ch from the hook: 1. inc, 2 sc, 3 sc into 1 ch, on the other side - 3 sc (10) 2. 2 inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, inc (16) 3. 16 sc (16) 4. (sc, inc)*8 (24) 5. 24 sc (24) 6. (2 sc, inc)*8 (32) 7. 32 sc (32) 8. (3 sc, inc)*8 (40) 9. 40 sc (40) 10. (4 sc, inc)*8 (48) 11. 48 sc (48) 12. (5 sc, inc)*8 (56) 13. 56 sc (56) 14. (6 sc, inc)*8 (64) 15-16. 60 sc (64), 2 rnds 17. (7 sc, inc)*8 (72) 18-19. 72 sc (72), 2 rnds 20. (8 sc, inc)*8 (80) 21. 80 sc (80), make 3 shift sts, marker must be placed on the side edge of the head. Change the yarn to light-yellow color #187 and cut the lime yarn . 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31.

BLO: 80 sc (80) (8 sc, dec)*8 (72) (7 sc, dec)*8 (64) (6 sc, dec)*8 (56) (5 sc, dec)*8 (48) (4 sc, dec)*8 (40) (3 sc, dec)*8 (32) (2 sc, dec)*8 (24), stuff (sc, dec)*8 (16) (2 sc, dec)*4 (12), fasten off.

39

40

Please pay attention to the shape of the head during the stuffing. It's very important that the shape of the head was look like a triangle with the wide foundation (cheeks area) - the color changing line.

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eyes

41

With the yarn of white color #62. Make ch10, from the 2nd ch from the hook: 1. 8 sc, 4 hdc into 1 ch, on the other side - 8 sc (20) 2. 3 sl st, 5 sc, 4 hdc inc, 5 sc, 3 sl st (24) 3. (3 sc, inc)*2, (hdc, hdc inc)*4, (inc, 3 sc)*2 (32), insert the safety eyes (рiс. 42). You can choose any placing of the safety eyes. Depending on them the gaze of the froggy can be different. I placed the safety eyes on the inner edge of the white part: between the 2nd and the 3rd rnds. You can find the variations on the page with assembling.

Close the back of the eyes. And I recommend melting them. I use a household lighter. But be careful at this step, your crocheted piece could get damaged, stained or even burnt when doing so. Press the melted part of the back side of the eye with a lighter or a knife to secure it.

42

4-5. 32 sc (32), 2 rnds 6. (2 sc, dec)*8 (24) 7. (sc, dec)*8 (16), stuff it 8. 8 dec (8), close the hole through the front loops, fasten off.

43

44

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Next we will crochet the eyelids with the yarn of lime color #193, make two.

45

Make a ch10, from the 2nd ch from the hook: 1. 8 sc, 4 hdc into 1 ch, on the other side 8 sc (20) 2. 3 sl st, 5 sc, 4 hdc inc, 5 sc, 3 sl st (24) 3. (3 sc, inc)*2, (hdc, hdc inc)*4, (inc, 3 sc)*2 (32) 4-7. 32 sc (32), 4 rnds, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

cheeks

46

With the yarn of pink color #36, make two. 8 sc in MR (8), leave a long tail and cut the thread.

spots With the yarn of khaki color #29, you make any quantity you want. I've made 10 small spots and 3 big ones.

47

Small spot: 8 sc in MR (8), leave a long tail for sewing and cut the thread. Big spot: 8 hdc in MR (8), leave a long tail for sewing and cut the thread.

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assembling 1. Sculpting. To make the eyes fit bett er on the head, you shoul d make t he scul pti ng hol lows under t he eyes. Mark 7 sti tches wi th t he pins (рiс. 48) between rnds 11 and 12. Insert the t hreaded needle into point 1. Make a longwi se stit ches from point 2 to point 3 and from point 5 to point 4 (рi с. 49). Pull out the needl e from point 6. Pul l both free tai ls of the thread until you have t he hol lows deep enough (рiс. 51-52) and make a knot. Insert the eyes int o the eyel ids, pi n it (рiс. 53)

48

49

50

51

52

53

2

4 5

6

3

1

and check the result. Maybe you need to loose the t ention or otherwi se make i t stronger. If it is needed, pul l t he thread tail s agai n and make one more knot. Cut the thread and fasten off.

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54

55

2 . Se w the e y es a nd the c he ek s. A s I men tio ne d in p a ge 21, d ep en din g o n the sa fety eyes p lac in g ( рiс . 54- 56) , th e ga z e o f f r o ggy c an be d iff er en t. C h o o se th e o n e yo u li ke th e mo s t, o r c r eate yo u r o wn . S ew t he eyes lid s, b u t do n ' t c u t t he th r ead .

56

57

P u t th e ey es in to tw o h o llo w s , th at y o u fo r med du r in g sc ulp tin g (р iс. 57- 58) , p in th e eyes a nd s ew t hem to th e hea d s tr o n g eno u gh . I r eco mmen d to s ew it w ith sh o r t inv isib le s titch es . Don't make the thread tention during a sewing too tight, so that the edge of the eyelids can look natural, not the pilfered - without folds.

58

A f ter yo u s ew the eyes , p in th e c hee ks un d er th e ey es (рiс . 5 8- 59) a nd sew th em t hr o u gh the b ac k lo o p s o n ly if yo u w a nt the m to lo o k co n vex a n d th r o u gh th e b o th lo o ps if y ou w an t th em to lo o k f lat. 3 . S ew the he a d. P u t t he h ead o n th e w ir e stic kin g fr o m th e nec k a n d p in th e h ead to it (p ic . 60 ). M ake su r e th e h ea d is p la ced str a igh t. I lik e th e tec h niq u e of th e @ littl ef ish. cro c het erie . I t's r eall y in vis ib le tech n iqu e o f a tta ch in g to g eth er .

59

c faf tma ker n eat an d th e piec es

P ay yo u r a tten tio n , th at th e w ir e mus t be in ser ted in to the he ad d eepl y en o u gh . Stu ff th e h ea d tigh t a s yo u sew .

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60

I n ser t a n eed le u p in to t he stitc h o f th e n ec k, th en ca tch a sti tch o f th e h ead w ith a ne edle, as if p ier cin g th is s titc h w ith a n eed le - in s er ting a n eed le in to a s titc h b ef o re i t a n d p u llin g it o u t fr o m th e n ext s titc h.

61

62

P a y a tte ntio n, If y o u w an t th e h ea d to be i n t he midd le w ith o u t a ny sh if tin g, wo r k in t he “ s titch to s titch ” tec hn iq u e. D o n 't f o r get to s tu ff th e h ead wh ile s ewin g a nd u s e th e p in s to h elp th e p r o ces s o f a tta ch in g it. T h is i s h o w th e hea d lo o k s af ter s ew in g (p ic 64) . V er y n eat.

63

64

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65

5. Se w th e spo ts. Depending on how many spots you crocheted you can place them on the body in a very different ways. I tried to place them to look like it was random and assymetrically. And in the same time I wanted them to be seen from the front and the side look too.

66

67

68

I placed two big spots on the bottom of the back and one on the back side of the head. Pin the spots (рiс. 65-67), don't be rush with its placing and sew them with short invisible stitches through the back loops only if you want them to look convex and through the both loops if you want them to look flat.

69

I prefer the convex look. You can see how I placed the spots in рiс. 68-70.

70

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Part 2. accessories

hat

71

Wit h th e yar n o f stra w co lo r #262. 1. 8 s c in M R (8 ) 2. 8 in c ( 16) 3. (s c, in c)* 8 (24 ) 4. (3 s c, inc )* 6 ( 30) 5. (4 s c, inc )* 6 ( 36) 6. (5 s c, inc )* 6 ( 42) 7. (6 s c, i nc )* 6 ( 48) 8. (7 s c, inc )* 6 ( 54) 9. (8 s c, inc )* 6 ( 60) 10. ( 9 sc , in c) *6 (66 ) 11. ( 10 sc , in c) *6 ( 72) 12. B L O: 72 sc ( 72) 1 3 -1 4 . 7 2 sc (7 2 ), 2 rn d s, ch a n g e th e ya rn to gr a phit # 2 8 fo r th e stri p e , b u t don't c ut th e th re a d o f th e m a i n co l o r. 1 5 -1 6 . B LO: 7 2 s c (7 2 ) , 2 rn d s, ch a n g e th e ya rn to s tr a w co l o r # 2 6 2 , cu t th e gr a phit th re a d a n d fa ste n o ff. 17. B LO : 72 sc ( 72) 18. FR L : ( sc , in c) *36 ( 108) 1 9 -2 0 . 1 0 8 s c(1 0 8 ), 2 rn d s 21. ( 11 sc , in c) *9 ( 117) 2 2 . 1 1 7 sc ( 1 1 7 ), ma ke a n i n vi si b l e e d g e a n d fa ste n o ff.

73

72

74

28 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

rubber ring

75

Wi th the yarn of yel low color #216. Make ch64, next make sl st into the 1st ch (рiс. 75). Pay attenti on that the chain must be not twi sted. 1. 64 sc (64) 2. (7 sc, inc)*8 (72) 3. (8 sc, i nc)*8 (80) 4. (9 sc, i nc)*8 (88) 5. (10 sc, i nc)*8 (96) 6. (11 sc, inc)*8 (104) 7. (12 sc, i nc)*8 (112) 8-1 3. 1 12 sc (1 12 ), 6 rn ds (рi с. 76 ) 14. (12 sc, dec)*8 (104) 15. (11 sc, dec)*8 (96) 16. (10 sc, dec)*8 (88) 17. (9 sc, dec)*8 (80) 18. (8 sc, dec)*8 (72) 19. (7 sc, dec)*8 (64), (рi с. 77) 20 -24 . 6 4 sc ( 64 ), 5 rn ds, l ea ve a l o ng tai l fo r se wi n g ab ou t 40 cm l on g an d fa ste n off (рi с. 78 ).

76

Fold rnds 20-24 inwards to get t he look of donut, li ke i n рiс. 79.

77

78

29 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

Now we need to sew two edges of the rubber ring together with the thread, which we have left. Use the overedge seam working with the front loop of the 24th rnd and the loop of the 1st one (рiс. 80), leave a non-sewn hole about 3 cm (рiс. 81).

79

Stuff the rubber ring tight enough and sew the hole, stuff it. You can use sushi stick or back end of the hook during stuffing the rubber ring for more comfortable work.

DU CK' s HE AD Wit h th e yar n o f y e llo w c o lo r #2 16. 1. 6 s c in M R (6) 2. 6 in c (12 ) 3. (s c, in c)* 6 (18) 4. (2 s c, inc )* 6 ( 24) 5. (3 s c, inc )* 6 ( 30) 6. (4 s c, inc )* 6 ( 36) 7. (5 s c, inc )* 6 ( 42) 8 -1 3 . 4 2 s c (4 2 ) , 6 rn d s 14. (5 s c, d ec )*6 ( 36) 15. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30), insert the safety eyes between rnds 10 and 11, leaving 10 stitches appart. 16. (3 s c, d ec )*6 ( 24) 17. ( 2 sc , d ec) *6 (18 ) 18. (sc, dec)*6 (12), leave a long tail for sewing and cut the thread, stuff the head.

81

80

82

30 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

BE A K Wit h th e yar n o f o ra ng e c o lo r # 31.

83

Ma ke ch 9, fr o m th e 2 nd ch fr o m th e h o o k: 1. in c, 6 s c, 3 sc in to 1 ch , o n t he o th er sid e - 7 s c (1 8) 2. 18 sc ( 18) , leav e a lo n g tai l f o r s ewi ng an d c ut th e th r ead . Pu t all p ar ts o f th e ru b b er r in g to g hete r us in g pi ns an d s tar t th e as semb ly.

84

86

85

87

31 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

Sew th e b eak bet wee n th e ey es o n th e hea d fir s t. I h ad to w o rk o nl y w ith the fr o n t l oo p s .

88

Nex t sew th e hea d t o th e b o dy o f t he ru b b er r in g. C h o o se th e r ig ht p lac e, fi x th e hea d w ith th e p in s an d s ew it o n, li ke y ou ha d s ew n the f r o ggy h ea d - w ith sh o r t inv isib le s titch es .

89

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swimwear

90

Wi th t he yarn of viol et color #44, crochet in turni ng rows, don't forget to turn the work i n the end of each row. Make ch23 and l eave a long tail in the beginning, from the 2nd ch from the hook: 1-18. BLO: 22 hdc, ch, turn the work (22), 18 rnds 19. BLO: 18 hdc, 5 ch (22) 20. BLO: from the 2nd st from the hook: 22 hdc (4 hdc along the chain and 18 hdc along the work) (22) 21-37. BLO: 22 hdc, ch (22), 17 rnds 38. BLO: 4 sl st, ch, 18 hdc (22), leave a long tail for sewing (рiс. 90).

91

Fold the work in half and sew the swimwear through the back loop of 38th row and the loop of the 1st one, which we had left after the 38th row, using stich to stich seam (рiс. 91). Fasten off. Using the tail of the thread that we had left in the beggining of crocheting, sew the bottom of the swimwear (рiс. 93). Fasten off.

92

93

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Next we will crochet the belt. Attach the thread of violet color #44 to the seam area on the back (рiс. 94) and crochet along the edge into every hole, but do not overtight the work.

94

Quantity of the stitches can be different, it is not important. The main thing is that the belt wasn't too tight and can be dressed on the froggy’s belly. I h a ve 68 sc . C ro c h et 3 r o u n ds w ith o u t ch an gin g an d m ake an in visi ble ed ge. Fas ten o f f (р iс. 95) . Nex t w e ma ke th e c or d f o r t he s w imw ear fr o m th e y ar n o f wh ite co l or #62 .

95

Ma ke ch 10 0 (p la ce it a ro u n d the f r o ggy ’s bell y b ef or e co n tin u ein g). If n eed ed ma ke the c ha in lo n ger . Ma ke the kn o ts o n th e en d s o f th e co r d an d c ut th e th r ead (рiс . 96 -9 7). If yo u like p o lka d o t, yo u ca n m ake it o n the sw im wea r u si ng a Fr en ch k no t tech n iqu e.

96

97

34 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

98

F renc h kno t tec hniq ue . 1. Pull out the needle with the thread of white color in the random place (рiс. 98).

99

100

101

2. Yarn over the working thread on the needle 2-3 times (the more times you do that, the bigger the knot will be), keep the thread in tension (рiс. 99). 3. Insert the thread near the place where it was pulled out, holding it during that for making the knot neat (рiс. 100). Y ou r F r enc h kn o t is r ea dy (p i с . 101) . Rep eat th es e s tep s a s man y tim es, as n eed ed .

102

I ns er t th e c o rd th r o u gh th e b elt r o u n ds o f the s w imw ear a n d no w the sw im wea r o f yo u r Fr o g gy is co mp letely ma d e!

35 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

lemonade

103

Wit h the yarn of pi nk col or #59. 1. 8 sc in MR (8) 2. 8 inc (16) 3. (sc, inc)*8 (24), draw an outline on cardboard (or any other polymer material) around the contour of the part and cut it out (рiс. 103). 4. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) 5. BLO: 30 sc (30) 6-11. 30 sc (30), 6 rnds, change the yarn to beige #05 12. BLO: 30 sc (30) 13-15. 30 sc (30), 3 rnds 16. (4 sc, inc)*6 (36), insert the cardboard into the part 17. BLO: 36 sc (36) 18. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30) 19. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 20. 24 sc (24) 21. (2 sc, dec)*6 (18) 22. (sc, dec)*6 (12) 23. 6 dec (6), change the yarn to azure #55 24. BLO: 6 sc (6) 25-30. 6 sc (6), 6 rnds 31-32. BLO: 6 sc (6), 2 rnds 33-35. 6 sc (6), 3 rnds, make an invisible edge, fasten off (рiс. 105).

105

104

106

36 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

Bend t he tube at sharp angl e around 3132 rnds.

107

Attach the bei ge yarn #05 to the front loo p of the 16t h round ( рi с. 106): 36 sc (36), make an i nvi si bl e edge, fast en off . LEMON Start wi th t he yarn of whi te col or #62. 1. 8 sc in MR (8), don't close the MR, change the yarn to light-yellow color #88 2. 8 inc (16) 3. (sc, inc)*8 (24), change the yarn to yellow color #216 (рiс. 108) 4. Fold the part in half, hide all thread tails and crochet 12 sc through both sides, fasten off.

108

Sew the lemon in the way that non-closed MR was fit exactly to convex in the 16th round of lemonade cup.

109

110

37 Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

No w y o ur jo yfu l F r og gy o n v ac atio n is r ead y fo r a ny ad ven tu r es, w h ich c an b e b r o ug ht b y th e s ea b r eez e a n d th e bes t vac ati on s e v er . It 's ti me f o r s u n ny d ay s!

That is it. Please remember to tag your doll using #kru_pattern and don't forget to mention me whenever you post one of my toys. Give to your creation kindness and lovely stories.

Thanks for your interest to my work and see you soon!

Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2

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